Topic: Vintage sidecar rebuild - new video

[Tintop]

Actually Scotty, it was the chair fairing that made contact with his back wheel (8 x 13 slick).  You can see the rubber it left behind, on the bottom of the fairing.  If it had been the chair wheel, it would have been very nasty, we would have flipped for sure.  So kind of lucky that way.  We only got launched straight up.  The right side weight bias brought it down on the frame ends & pipe.

It's not the 1st time I've been upside down from wheel contact.  Happened twice racing karts.  I've also got way with it once.  Banged wheels with Paul Tracy (he was a young pup then ) @ Beaverton.  Remember watching alloy shavings off the front rims, making a wonderful rooster tail in the sunshine.  I had the line, he didn't.  He ended up in the outside berm, I won the race.

[Tintop]

Got some work done upgrading the brake system for the next race.  1st up was to replace the GT750 M/C.  As mentioned before, the addition of the mini drum needs a larger piston.

P'd/U a used FZR400 M/C with a 5/8" piston.  It's a little worse for wear but has a nice adjustable dog leg lever.   Just need to get a 10mm x 1.25 thread double banjo to finish off that end.


Also added a 2nd adjuster to the mini drum.  It acts on the reworked parking brake lever.  Holds the shoes out closer to the drum, so the cylinder doesn't retract as far.  Requires less fluid movement to active the brake.  I'll just need to remove the rim to reach both adjustments.
 

[scottly]

Just out of curiosity, what size was the old MC piston?
Nice touch, adding the adjuster.

[FuZZie]

I'm digging the adjuster too, tweaking that outside brake should make for some interesting results. 

No way you could reach it with out the rim removal, maybe bend up a wrench so you work with it faster?

[Tintop]

Just out of curiosity, what size was the old MC piston?
Nice touch, adding the adjuster.

Thanks scotty, wasn't my idea, saw something similar on another rig.  Just modified it to work with my setup.  The old one was from a GT750 (11mm).

I'm digging the adjuster too, tweaking that outside brake should make for some interesting results. 

No way you could reach it with out the rim removal, maybe bend up a wrench so you work with it faster?

No need for speed FuZZie, there is easily enough time between heats / races to make an adjustment.  It's also easy to lift the chair side, and put an axle stand under the rig.  Main purpose is the reduce shoe travel for better lever action, and also compensate for wear.

I get bodywork back Monday (more clear coat & 2nd colour added to wheel fairing).  The chair fairing will be awhile, given the abuse it took.   Did fit the dustbin around the exhaust pipe(s) & muffler today.  Lots of little cuts to get it fitting nicely.

[bwaller]

Sounds good Brian.  How's the lever feel now?

[Tintop]

Sounds good Brian.  How's the lever feel now?

Haven't got to bleed it yet Brent.  I had to order a new double banjo.  Old M/C took M10 x 1.0, new one takes M10 x 1.25.   Should have it Tuesday, so the fun will start after that.  The front is easy, only 30" of brake line, and a single piston caliper.  The chair brake is at the other end of about 90" of line, with lots of places for air to get trapped, and it goes through the bias adjuster.  Thinking I might invest in one of those 'reverse' pressure bleeders.  Also need to upgrade the battery.  Seems the electric fuel pump is a power hog.  The Odyssey PC310 doesn't have the staying power.  I'll email re your Li battery, might solve the issue.

[scottly]

Are you running total loss, Brian?

[Tintop]

Are you running total loss, Brian?

Yes scotty.  Never had a stator when I got it.  The XS one tends to come apart at high RPM, and the weight loss helps spin up.  So most remove it.  Those using VM34's can get away using a snowmobile vaccum pump (1 1/2lb).  As you know, the Weber needs 4 to 4 1/2lb, so electric is the only solution.  There is a micro pump I could try, but it needs a regulator, and may not reduce power consumption enough.  I'll try a larger battery, or maybe an Li 1st.

[scottly]

My experience has been that Webers don't "need" 4 PSI, just an adequate supply. My bike came with a Carter pump, and a regulator set at 2 1/2 PSI. I removed the extra weight some time ago, and have been running gravity feed ever since. I realize for your chair you need a pump, but don't over-estimate the fuel delivery requirements, since you are limited by battery power. One nasty thing about Li batteries is they go dead all of a sudden, like within a few minutes. 

[bear]

Sounds good Brian.  How's the lever feel now?

  Thinking I might invest in one of those 'reverse' pressure bleeders.

Make the investment Brian. Ours is the fist thing put into the tool box before every meeting.
They are not a lot of money.
While we are one the subject of handy tools. Our leak down tester is another must for us these days.
We do a test after every meeting so we know exactly where we stand with regard to motor condition. This tool has saved us a lot of heart ache and money.

Cheers,
Brian

Cheers,
Brian

[754]

 The WEBERS usually had a bored out inlet, which m,ay have used stock needle.. but I am not sure.. the only mod on them that differs from auto applications. Thet gravity feed fine with that done..

[bwaller]

I have two 8 cell Lithium Ion batteries, plus a small acid job. I'll take the Li anyday, and with the new ignition can get probably forty minutes. They do "run out" abruptly instead of "wearing down" like an acid battery, but the effect is ultimately the same. It takes a bit of experience running total loss,  meaning you have to push it home a few times.

I doubt an 8 cell is enough power for your needs though because of the pump, but they could be stacked together I quess. Not sure the little weight savings in this case is worth it though.

[Tintop]

The WEBERS usually had a bored out inlet, which m,ay have used stock needle.. but I am not sure.. the only mod on them that differs from auto applications. Thet gravity feed fine with that done..

Gravity fed isn't an option 754, my fuel outlet is 12+" below the Weber inlet.  Also keep in mind that it is the 'weight' of the fuel that 'gravity feeds' a bike's bowls.  As the fuel is used that weight (pressure) reduces.  The Weber needs a constant pressure.

Thanks for the post bwaller.  There is a larger Odyssey that I can make fit, and  I could pack 16, maybe even 24 Li cells into the space I have available.  Weight isn't an issue, given I'm the lightest driver out there by 50+lbs.   I'm also going to contact Ken at CycleX about his racing alternator.  Not my favoured solution given it adds more wiring / conections / components.

[Retro Rocket]

Hi Brian, there was a guy that was modifying alternators to suit the XS650 , i emailed him a while back asking about mods to the Honda charging system, i can't remember the site but i still have his email if you would like to have a chat with him..?

[Tintop]

Was it 650central / Micheal "Mercury" Morse, RR?  He sells the SPARX unit for the XS; it was originally developed for Triumphs.  I've been looking at that.  It's a permanent magnet type (like the CycleX product), and comes with a solid state reg/rec as well.  But not a cheap solution ($510US ).  That said, it would solve a bunch of issues in one go.  No worries about low voltage for the Boyer / lots of power for the pump / allow me to keep the electric start & PC310 (and not need a jump battery ) / let me go to an electronic tach.   I'd have to add a fuse, but already have a new 20amp thermal in the tool box.

[bwaller]

Sounds like you only need a wee little push to pull the trigger................

[Tintop]

Sounds like you only need a wee little push to pull the trigger................

With the cost of the repairs, and a new helmet after the last outing, I could have bought 2 of them.

But....I'll check my lottery ticket, and let you know.

[Retro Rocket]

Was it 650central / Micheal "Mercury" Morse, RR?  He sells the SPARX unit for the XS; it was originally developed for Triumphs.  I've been looking at that.  It's a permanent magnet type (like the CycleX product), and comes with a solid state reg/rec as well.  But not a cheap solution ($510US ).  That said, it would solve a bunch of issues in one go.  No worries about low voltage for the Boyer / lots of power for the pump / allow me to keep the electric start & PC310 (and not need a jump battery ) / let me go to an electronic tach.   I'd have to add a fuse, but already have a new 20amp thermal in the tool box.

This is the guy Brian, seems like a good guy as well...

http://hughshandbuilt.blogspot.com.au/p/xs650-permanent-magnet-alternator.html

[Tintop]

Thanks for the link RR.

I also see he does re-phased (277 degree) cranks & cams for the XS.   That's what I was planning on doing with the 2nd engine, and his pricing is reasonable.   His PM alternator setup looks to be based on a Banshee stator / rotor.  I'll give him a call.

[scottly]

I also see he does re-phased (277 degree) cranks & cams for the XS.  

Does that make it sound more like a Harley??

[Retro Rocket]

Thanks for the link RR.

I also see he does re-phased (277 degree) cranks & cams for the XS.   That's what I was planning on doing with the 2nd engine, and his pricing is reasonable.   His PM alternator setup looks to be based on a Banshee stator / rotor.  I'll give him a call.

Glad i could help mate 

[Tintop]

I also see he does re-phased (277 degree) cranks & cams for the XS.  

Does that make it sound more like a Harley??

Not quite scotty, but very different from a stock XS.  There are befroe & after videos posted on the link/site RR supplied.  Check the right side list for '277 crank'.

[Tintop]

Sounds like you only need a wee little push to pull the trigger................

OK, so I'm ready to jump.   Two choices - The SPARX unit, or the one from the source that RR supplied the link for.  I'm leaning towards the SPARX (found it for $369US) mainly because it's more compack / sealed / and adds less rotational weight.  Only issue seems to be if it has timing marks.  The kit from 650central does, but its priced @ $510US.

SPARX for XS650- http://www.sevensinschoppers.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=SPARX3PKIT%2DXS650%2D17%2D130

Hugh's Handbuilt - http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5t-DLE9IafI/TrFrgmpKWII/AAAAAAAAAV8/U7Oewy7X-h0/s1600/101_7524.JPG

[scottly]

Or you could go for the low-buck option: 20 pounds of lead-acid battery, charged between rounds might work? Put the weight where it will do the most good..