Topic: Let it all hang out,tell us how you really feel and what pisses you off.

[Alan F.]

Don that reminds me to opt for a much cheaper phone plan, thanks!

[scottly]

I dumped Verizon a couple of years ago and went with Consumer Cellular. For voice and text(which I never use) I pay $21.xx a month, and the simple flip phone cost me $40 out the door at Target with free activation, plus I kept my old phone number. At the time, Verizon was going to raise my rate to $49/mo, and required me to purchase a new phone, which would then cost $35 to activate!??   

[Alan F.]

I got the tappet adjust screw replaced today, adjusted the valves again and got it all put back together and running, all is well there.

But I also swapped out my stock head pipes and non-stock mufflers for a used Tec Stinger 2:1 pipe I've had on the shelf for a few years. It's on and sounds good, doesn't leak.

*The problem is my stock clutch cable is now too short.
Normally adding a couple of zip ties will keep the cable off of these pipes, but I already used that slack up with my taller handlebars, 1.5" taller and 3" wider.

*So I'm a little pissed off that I spent a whole afternoon working on this bike but didn't forsee the need for a longer clutch cable.

I can swap back to my stock bars or get creative with clutch cable routing. Maybe a support bracket from the frame under the tank just in front of the engine will allow lock to lock turns and keep the cable off the pipes?

[BenelliSEI]

Loading up the big enclosed trailer yesterday, going to the track today. I noticed a few of the small fasteners (holding the exterior skin in place) were coming loose. Looked like a Torx screw with a slight dome in the middle of the pan head.

I have three or four kits with literally 100’s of different screw bits. None fit.
What a bunch of a’holes. You made your own screws?

[lash]

My cargo trailer is the same way. At least they could have put some locktite on them.

[simon#42]

I got the tappet adjust screw replaced today, adjusted the valves again and got it all put back together and running, all is well there.

But I also swapped out my stock head pipes and non-stock mufflers for a used Tec Stinger 2:1 pipe I've had on the shelf for a few years. It's on and sounds good, doesn't leak.

*The problem is my stock clutch cable is now too short.
Normally adding a couple of zip ties will keep the cable off of these pipes, but I already used that slack up with my taller handlebars, 1.5" taller and 3" wider.

*So I'm a little pissed off that I spent a whole afternoon working on this bike but didn't forsee the need for a longer clutch cable.

I can swap back to my stock bars or get creative with clutch cable routing. Maybe a support bracket from the frame under the tank just in front of the engine will allow lock to lock turns and keep the cable off the pipes?

or you could just buy a longer cable , im sure there is someone over there making one off cables . if not venhill would make you one

[Terry in Australia]

Loading up the big enclosed trailer yesterday, going to the track today. I noticed a few of the small fasteners (holding the exterior skin in place) were coming loose. Looked like a Torx screw with a slight dome in the middle of the pan head.

I have three or four kits with literally 100’s of different screw bits. None fit.
What a bunch of a’holes. You made your own screws?

They sound like torx security screws John, you need special hollow torx bits to tighten or remove them. I bought some torx security screws to replace the phillips screws attaching the number plate screws after some arsehole stole the number plates off my son’s Subaru to do a smash and grab robbery several years ago.

[Don R]

Loading up the big enclosed trailer yesterday, going to the track today. I noticed a few of the small fasteners (holding the exterior skin in place) were coming loose. Looked like a Torx screw with a slight dome in the middle of the pan head.

I have three or four kits with literally 100’s of different screw bits. None fit.
What a bunch of a’holes. You made your own screws?

 My Haulmark has an 8 point torx which is hard to find but a square bit does the job, just turn by hand if you break any tight ones loose so they don't strip out. And Yes, they don't want us to be able to fix them.

[Terry in Australia]

I always kept a set of torx bits on hand to remove stripped out allan bolts. Just belt a torx bit into the rounded out internal hex and I was good to go. My mysterious Harley (that the seller swore was a 2010 model but is actually at least a 2014 model, even if you’re a Harley expert you’d be struggling to identify this pile) with the 103 twin cam engine has the much improved compensator (cush drive) assembly which requires a T70 torx bit on at least a 3 foot breaker bar to remove. I now have the special tools, I just don’t know if I have the strength to remove it.

[grcamna2]

I always kept a set of torx bits on hand to remove stripped out allan bolts. Just belt a torx bit into the rounded out internal hex and I was good to go. My mysterious Harley (that the seller swore was a 2010 model but is actually at least a 2014 model, even if you’re a Harley expert you’d be struggling to identify this pile) with the 103 twin cam engine has the much improved compensator (cush drive) assembly which requires a T70 torx bit on at least a 3 foot breaker bar to remove. I now have the special tools, I just don’t know if I have the strength to remove it.

You may need a 4' breaker bar