Topic: Tool recommendations for degreeing a cam needed

[brandEn]

I am getting together the tools needed to make sure my MegaCycle cam gets installed correctly. I am modifying a spark plug for a piston stop and shopping for a degree wheel and dial indicator. I have never done this before but I am eager to learn. When I built my F3 I got a drop in cam (Web 41) just because I was so intimidated on installing a cam and timing it correctly. This time around I feel it necessary to learn. I love working on these engines and this is required knowledge IMO. Plus I hate not understanding!


I need a degree wheel that will install on the left side of the engine under the rotor bolt. Can anyone recommend one that they prefer? I was looking at one from Summit racing for about $20.



For a dial indicator I was hoping this cheap one from Harbor Freight would be good enough.



Any recommendations would be great.
Also, where is the best place to attach the dial indicator for good measurements?

[MCRider]

The problem I ran into degreeing my WEBCAM 41, was that the 7-8" degree wheels do not let you see what you are doing from the rt side of the bike. You can do it, with the tools you've mentioned, but its a hassle.

Mike Rieck uses a 20" degree wheel mounted backwards on the alt bolt. This can be read from the rt side. I'm looking for one myself.

Duh, I should ask mike where he got it.

The 41 needed degreeing BTW.

AS to placing the dial indi.  I don't remember but I think I bolted a flat piece of steel strap to the valve gear.

[brandEn]

Ah, that makes sense. A bigger wheel to see from the right side. What is the valve gear?

[MCRider]

Ah, that makes sense. A bigger wheel to see from the right side. What is the valve gear?

I did a search on "degree wheel" and found the thread where Mike said he used a 20" wheel.

Not a gear literaly, but the whole mess of the valve train. Funny i can't remember where I put mine. I'm thinking a strap between the long center bolts holding down the rocker tower.

[brandEn]

Jegs has a Moroso 18" wheel for about $50.
I can't find any 20" wheels.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

A pc of flat steel, used a pc of angle last time.Drill a little 6mm hole, a couple maybe , bolt to head where valve/cam cover sits, usually on outside of head.Usually do #4, closest to you.20 inch degree wheel, cool, guess Mike's bigger! ! lol  Bill

[brandEn]

Thanks Bill. That is easy enough. I will just get a strap of steel and modify it to bolt onto the head for the base of the indicator to sit on.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Yes and 18 inch wheel plenty big enough, we can't all be like Mike! ! Bill

[MCRider]

Yes and 18 inch wheel plenty big enough, we can't all be like Mike! ! Bill

He may have been exaggerating. 

[Jerry E.]

I used a degree wheel that is clear plastic, from Cycle X  I think, attached to the points shaft. I used the starter cover, right behind the cylanders, to "mount" the magnetic base dial indicater to, and used the #1 valve retainer to measure off of.  I also used the same dial indicater in your picture, borrowed from a friend. I ended up about 2-3 teeth advanced from the "stock" cam mark position with my Megacycle cam(125-00), to get the correct reading per my timing card.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I also attached to the points shaft with a couple 6mm nuts and washers to hold it in place. My degree wheel is much smaller but I'm not home to check it. Used a coat hanger as the pointer with a point ground into the end held in place using one of the 6mm threaded holes in the top of the head. Intimidating UNTIL you complete the first time. Got my TDC stop from Big Jay.

[MCRider]

I also attached to the points shaft with a couple 6mm nuts and washers to hold it in place. My degree wheel is much smaller but I'm not home to check it. Used a coat hanger as the pointer with a point ground into the end held in place using one of the 6mm threaded holes in the top of the head. Intimidating UNTIL you complete the first time. Got my TDC stop from Big Jay.

So did you turn it from the alt side?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

I also attached to the points shaft with a couple 6mm nuts and washers to hold it in place. My degree wheel is much smaller but I'm not home to check it. Used a coat hanger as the pointer with a point ground into the end held in place using one of the 6mm threaded holes in the top of the head. Intimidating UNTIL you complete the first time. Got my TDC stop from Big Jay.

So did you turn it from the alt side?

                                                                                                   


Yes, I will not turn it using the points shaft. Last thing I want to do is snap off the shaft at or below the surface.

[Jerry E.]

I used the alt. to turn the crank, also.

[brandEn]

Turning the engine over using the right side you want to use your wrench on the advancer mechanism.  I would never turn it over using the small 10mm nut installed on the points shaft.

[70CB750]

I got a dial indicator combo from grizzly and I am very happy with it.  I am sure it is china too, but I always considered grizzly the better china

The G9849 is $19.50 for the base and dial indicator check it out.

[bwaller]

It's been mentioned before, but a long tool to turn the engine over is a must too. It's just easier to make small movements.

[brandEn]

It's been mentioned before, but a long tool to turn the engine over is a must too. It's just easier to make small movements.

Thanks for the tip. Its the little details like this that I need to learn. Any other tips and tricks is great appreciated.

I have been reading up on degreeing a camshaft and "think" I have a pretty good idea on what's going on. Doesn't seem to hard and like has been mentioned its like riding a bike...

[MRieck]

Jegs has a Moroso 18" wheel for about $50.
I can't find any 20" wheels.

Ok...ok. I have the 18" Moroso (and 3 smaller ones as well).

[turboguzzi]

one important tip is to make sure you have the piston in compression/power stroke position when you insert the stopper, otherwise you risk bending a valve
second tip is to screw a threaded rod instead of the current tip in your dial gage as an extension so that it can reach the spring collar easier.

being an ultra cheapo bastard, i dont use a magnetic base at all, just  a few pre-drilled steel straps bolted to where it's convenient and locked in place

ditto for a degree wheel, grab a pdf from the internet, print it, stick to stiff cardboard, done. feeling fancy? blow it up some and make yourself a 30" wheel even. bigger is better my girlfriend says.

[bwaller]

one important tip is to make sure you have the piston in compression/power stroke position when you insert the stopper, otherwise you risk bending a valve
second tip is to screw a threaded rod instead of the current tip in your dial gage as an extension so that it can reach the spring collar easier.

being an ultra cheapo bastard, i dont use a magnetic base at all, just  a few pre-drilled steel straps bolted to where it's convenient and locked in place

ditto for a degree wheel, grab a pdf from the internet, print it, stick to stiff cardboard, done. feeling fancy? blow it up some and make yourself a 30" wheel even. bigger is better my girlfriend says.

OK, now your just bragging, or she's dreaming. 

[turboguzzi]

could be wishful thinking too

we'll never know

[FunJimmy]

BrandEn

I just crawled out from my cave and have to get cracking at installing the head and valve train on my bike too. I’ve been told that it’s good practice to degree all cams (providing you have the spec sheet) to extract the full potential from them.

These are a couple of pics of a 550 dial gauge mount from Bwaller.
Yours will be different.  I’m also using a degree wheel from Motion Pro.

It’s not 18”, but neither am I.

[MRieck]

I just PM'd Brent about using that cover when you are done Jimmy. I was going to cut one up but it is in such nice shape I really hate to. Thanks for showing it.
 

[brandEn]

Hey Jim, thanks for the pictures. What a great idea that is! It would be easy to fab up something similar I think for a 750...