Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116417 times)

timbo750 · « **Reply #450 on:** January 22, 2016, 06:09:06 PM »

Sean, thanks I will ring some bike shops. I actually think I may of made a tool last time using a G clamp but it was 17 years ago and a lot has gone past my brain since then.

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Retro Rocket · « **Reply #451 on:** January 22, 2016, 06:11:44 PM »

Tim, most X,O, and Z ring chains come with a tool that helps put the link on without creating a tight spot in the chain, try googling it and you should be able to find what you need, or just pop off down to the nearest reputable bike shop and ask...

Tim, I should have said "spacer" instead of "tool" , some O ring chains come with a spacer that's used inside the link when its being riveted or peened so the O ring in the master link doesn't get crushed and create a tight spot in the chain, as well as losing lube from a crushed O ring, its removed once the link is riveted/peened....

timbo750 · « **Reply #452 on:** January 22, 2016, 06:52:23 PM »

Thanks, I will be honest that I have not opened the link packet yet

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #453 on:** January 22, 2016, 07:27:57 PM »

I haven't been lucky enough to find a chain that came with anything but a rivet link Tim, so don't get your hopes up too high, and most friendly bike shops will tell you to fcuk off if you ask them for help with something you bought on the Internet, so it might be a safer bet to buy a rivet tool. I've had one now for several years and it's worth it's weight in gold. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #454 on:** January 22, 2016, 07:38:37 PM »

I am sure I will use one again. This bike restoration thing has bit me, I have my next 2 builds planned.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #455 on:** January 23, 2016, 07:59:45 PM »

I have been cleaning some of the bolt on bits, air box, oil tank etc. I am using a strong degreaser most likely similar to simple green. Air box cleaned up well and I will get some peanut oil which I have heard rejuvenates the plastic quite well. I am however wishing I cleaned the oil tank a lot earlier as it had a mixture of oil and water in it and now has some surface rust inside. It's not too bad and only in patches but I think I should remove it. So once I finish cleaning its time for a vinegar bath.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #456 on:** January 27, 2016, 06:59:30 PM »

Things are slowly progressing but at least they progressing. clutch cover is fitted and clutch adjusted. Shift mechanism is now working and the alternator parts are soaking in cleaner and should go in this weekend.

I also got a chain tool and that all done and adjusted but then I also realised that I don't have a sprocket cover, I am trying to find one around on flea bay etc but not with much luck.

Also I was wondering if there was some way to work out the condition of a starter motor, I actually have a few of them and they all seem in good condition and I can run straight of a battery but does that tell me enough. I also need to sort out the coils, I have a set from K and a set from an F but the K leads are damaged and it doesn't look like you can change them.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #457 on:** January 27, 2016, 07:36:32 PM »

G'Day Tim, K or F coils are the same, so no issue there. I might have a spare transmission cover, but I won't be back in Melbourne until Saturday week? Bad starters are rare, I did have one on my F2 that had been dragged thru hell and back, including being set on fire by a PO.

Mine would labor to turn the engine over, and made a constant clicking noise when the bike was in motion which confused the hell out of me trying to diagnose where the noise was coming from.

I eventually swapped it for another used one, and suddenly my bike was fun to ride. Bottom line, use the best one you've got and it should be fine. Cheers, Terry. ; D

timbo750 · « **Reply #458 on:** January 27, 2016, 08:02:27 PM »

Terry. Thanks, I have the cover over the shift mechanism, and to be honest I do actually have a sprocket cover but it polished along with a full set of covers for the other engine and as this engine is being painted it seems a waste to paint the polished unit. But I am not in a rush for it yet.

timbo750 · « **Reply #459 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:22:11 AM »

I am in the process of cleaning up the some of the electricals and have question that might seem to have an obvious answer but I want to check anyway.

There are 3 wires coming from the stator coil and the are all coloured yellow. Does this mean that when you connect them it does dont matter what order they are connected? I need to put new plugs on them and want to get it right the first time.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #460 on:** January 28, 2016, 01:37:58 AM »

That's it Tim, it doesn't matter how they're connected. Cheers, Terry. ; D

mystic_1 · « **Reply #461 on:** January 28, 2016, 04:08:24 PM »

Yup the alternator produces alternating current, so there's no polarity on the yellow wires, which carry the AC to the rectifier where it's turned into DC.

Use whatever arrangement allows you to dress the wires as cleanly into the wiring channel in the crankcase as possible.

mystic_1

timbo750 · « **Reply #462 on:** January 28, 2016, 05:32:57 PM »

Great explaination mystic. For some reason the coil is in great condition but the ends of the wires are melted from overheating.

timbo750 · « **Reply #463 on:** January 29, 2016, 07:38:42 PM »

Finally got to the broken bolt in case, the bad news is it wont come out. First tried a left hand drill bit with no luck, the tried an extractor and broke that off. Now I am going to try and drill it out to the thread edge as the pilot hole is very close to dead centre.

If anyone else has any great ideas let me know. i am fearing the engine will have to come out.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #464 on:** January 29, 2016, 11:04:05 PM »

Quote from: timbo750 on January 28, 2016, 05:32:57 PM

Great explaination mystic. For some reason the coil is in great condition but the ends of the wires are melted from overheating.

Normal. Not much extra on the ends to crimp new connectors and that shielding is tricky to try to save.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #465 on:** January 29, 2016, 11:32:09 PM »

Quote from: timbo750 on January 29, 2016, 07:38:42 PM

Finally got to the broken bolt in case, the bad news is it wont come out. First tried a left hand drill bit with no luck, the tried an extractor and broke that off. Now I am going to try and drill it out to the thread edge as the pilot hole is very close to dead centre.

If anyone else has any great ideas let me know. i am fearing the engine will have to come out.

Did you post a pic of the broken bolt Tim? When I pulled Mike's K2 engine apart, the bottom alternator cover bolt must have been bashed in with a hammer, it was a hex head (not internal hex) bolt in a place where you couldn't fit a socket or open ender etc to turn it, and the head had to be cut off to remove the cover.

I had enough "meat" to grab then weld a nut onto, but when I attempted to turn it, it just broke the bolt off at case level. Like you, I tried drilling it but the bolt was too hard for even my best drill bits to even make a mark on, so I offered Mike another set of cases, but he was adamant that he wanted to keep them, so I said that if there was a leak, he'd have to sort it.

Luckily, so far there are no leaks, I think I either used two gaskets or made a thicker one, and used a Selley's blue silicon sealant (carefully) that I've had excellent experience with in the past. (I installed a new water pump on my son's XF Falcon 10 years ago, and didn't see the special alloy gasket until after I decided that it didn't come with one, and used a little of this stuff to seal it with, and it still doesn't leak.

Anyway, if you haven't posted a pic yet, please do so we can all throw useless suggestions in your direction.

timbo750 · « **Reply #466 on:** January 30, 2016, 12:03:23 AM »

Yeah it was broken off clean at the case. When I first pulled the engine apart the bolts were of all different lengths and I suspect that a bolt that was too long was used and so was still torqued to the bottom of the thread after being broken and was stainless to top it off. The left hand drill bits are cobalt so drilled through with no issue and then stepping up the holes worked quite well.

Then I realised that I forgot to align the drill on 2 plains so was straight left and right but not up and down. However I did eventually manage to get about 3- 4 thread and then shortened the bolt in use and used a bit of lock tight so it wont vibrate loose. Fingers crossed there are no leaks. And the cover is now on.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #467 on:** January 30, 2016, 12:34:41 AM »

That's a clean engine Tim, be very careful when you first go to fire it up, make sure the little drain tubes are connected to the carbs so you don't get any drips on the engine paint like I did, which caused instant wrinking, fcuk it........

timbo750 · « **Reply #468 on:** January 30, 2016, 12:46:12 AM »

Thanks for that Terry. I cleaned the carbs a long time ago and think I may pull the apart agai for peace of mind, also I think the bowl heights are not set.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #469 on:** January 30, 2016, 01:21:44 AM »

Yeah, I rebuilt a set of carbs with new kits I bought on eBay Tim, and I bench synched them while I had the opportunity, and was 'rapt that the bike fired up right away and ran cleanly.

Only a little bit of fuel dripped out, and only because it was on it's side stand. I've got a new set of drain tubes in a box too, so I really should have installed them before I fired it up, but I was too excited, ha ha!

timbo750 · « **Reply #470 on:** January 30, 2016, 01:26:31 AM »

I would love to have the same result.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #471 on:** January 30, 2016, 01:47:30 AM »

You will mate, put the time in to do it right and it'll be fine, they're pretty simple old engines.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #472 on:** January 30, 2016, 06:37:32 PM »

I think Cal means "Weld a NUT onto the end of a sheared bolt" Tim, but that only works if you have enough meat left on the sheared bolt to do so, and if the sheared bolt was jammed into the engine case like mine was, you'd be lucky to get it out, mine just snapped again under the welded portion, and there wasn't enough meat to try again.

Drilling the remains out and heli-coiling the hole would have been a good fix, but some idiot had bashed an unbrako (super hard) bolt into the hole, and my drill bits wouldn't even mark it. Some people shouldn't be allowed to own tools......

timbo750 · « **Reply #473 on:** January 30, 2016, 07:15:34 PM »

I have done the welded nut before but this time it was flat against the case. I have also had the broken unbrako before and was surprised how easy a ew cobalt drill bit went into it compared to the standard.

timbo750 · « **Reply #474 on:** January 31, 2016, 12:47:08 AM »

Back to the questions about coils.

I have 2 sets that are different and thouht one set was K and one F but thats not it. The K coil have damaged leads and they appear to be fixed and unable to replace just the leads. The othet set do not have fixed leads and are essentially the same size but different where the leads fit and won't just bolt straight up. They are also 3ohm and from what HondMan says that can be an issue on the stock ignition system. The photos show both types.

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116417 times)