Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116418 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #400 on:** January 06, 2016, 11:07:48 AM »

The US IKON distributor (Dave Gardner) is located in San Francisco:
1064 Revere Ave
San Francisco, CA 94124
Tel. (415) 738-9441 Best after 10am PST(PDT)
Fax (415) 822-1471
Email ikonusa@gmail.com
https://www.ikonsuspensionusa.com/contact-us/

timbo750 · « **Reply #401 on:** January 06, 2016, 11:23:19 AM »

Stev-o, yes they are still made oz. And what I like is that they are made in a country town. The service is great, you can ring them direct and talk about what you want and how you ride and then they build your shocks.

Mine was $565.50 delivered and I am certain that price is for Australia wide.

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scunny · « **Reply #402 on:** January 06, 2016, 11:54:23 AM »

You will be more than happy with the Ikons, great firm to deal with as well when wanting a custom set up.
They do say assembled in Australia, so must source the parts.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #403 on:** January 06, 2016, 11:54:39 AM »

For those of us in the US, Dave Gardner is a great person to deal with. He goes over the specs with you in detail to make sure the shocks will fit and perform for your bike/weight/application. It's also great that these shocks are rebuildable.

Stev-o · « **Reply #404 on:** January 06, 2016, 04:48:32 PM »

Thanks for the info, guys.

timbo750 · « **Reply #405 on:** January 06, 2016, 07:24:21 PM »

I think I am missing a dowel pin from one one of the pump lines. Also I think the pump drive gear on the kick starter shaft is on the wrong way.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #406 on:** January 06, 2016, 08:04:57 PM »

Also I was trying to install the neutral switch and the only oring that is close to fitting is too large on the OD. It fits fine around the switch but wont fit in the case. Does this mean i have installed the wrong oring somewhere else? I am hoping not. The gasket kit came from Yamiya so I am confident its correct.

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01Thomas · « **Reply #407 on:** January 07, 2016, 03:35:37 AM »

For these small quantities I use nail varnish.

Quote from: edwardmorris on January 05, 2016, 09:57:19 PM

I had similar trouble with getting the SS ring close properly on the K2 gauges so I stuck with the stock ones for the K3. Surprisingly, the inner bevels on the K2 gauges were spotless, but three other sets I've opened up since have been crap. I found a small vendor online that made mini spray cans of paint that had the perfect color match, plus the can size is tiny, so cheap and not wasteful. Its basically like a supply store for small hobby projects and stuff, can't remember the name.

70CB750 · « **Reply #408 on:** January 07, 2016, 03:39:37 AM »

Here is some info on N switch orings from Hondaman:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,147098.msg1693272.html#msg1693272

meaning you can go different size since Honda done it too.

Quote from: timbo750 on January 06, 2016, 08:04:57 PM

Also I was trying to install the neutral switch and the only oring that is close to fitting is too large on the OD. It fits fine around the switch but wont fit in the case. Does this mean i have installed the wrong oring somewhere else? I am hoping not. The gasket kit came from Yamiya so I am confident its correct.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #409 on:** January 07, 2016, 11:41:40 AM »

70CB750 thanks, that helps heaps.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #410 on:** January 07, 2016, 07:36:53 PM »

Got the last 2 studs today and got the engine painted. I will get the head on tomorrow and re-torque on Sunday. Also found an o-ring that fits for the neutral switch but now it wont push in far enough.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #411 on:** January 08, 2016, 01:34:23 AM »

Is the ball on the end seated in the detent on the shifter mechanism Tim? If it is, give it a gentle tap around the outside (alloy) part, not the plastic inner. Try using a socket. Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #412 on:** January 08, 2016, 01:41:20 AM »

I think the indent in the shift drum is not located in the centre of the switch. I will try the socket tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

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Terry in Australia · « **Reply #413 on:** January 08, 2016, 01:44:41 AM »

No worries mate, that'll be the problem, I reckon. Cheers, Terry.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #414 on:** January 08, 2016, 02:43:01 AM »

Try shifting it out of neutral and then back into neutral...then test fitting the neutral switch.

Ron

timbo750 · « **Reply #415 on:** January 09, 2016, 02:15:55 AM »

Tried tapping the neutral switch with a socket and it would not move but it showed where the issue is, refer to first photo. So loosened off all the shift mechanisms, moved the drum out slightly and it fitted easily. Now I am thinking I have assembled something wrong with the shift mechanism. Of the next two pictures, can someone tell me which is correct for the roller?

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #416 on:** January 09, 2016, 04:01:02 AM »

Though I haven't put one together for a couple of years Tim, I'm thinking that the bottom pic looks right. Do you have a parts manual with the exploded diagram of all the shifter components stacked in the correct order? You should be able to download it from this site if you don't? Cheers, Terry.

edwardmorris · « **Reply #417 on:** January 09, 2016, 08:47:30 AM »

I had the same issue on the K2, and the switch only seated correctly with the shifter assembly apart. If you haven't already seen Dean's awesome vid series, this should help

timbo750 · « **Reply #418 on:** January 09, 2016, 08:42:01 PM »

Can anyone tell me the method for re-torquing the head. Do i need to loosen all the bolts first, if so how much, just a little or all the way. I couldn't find mention of it in Hondamans book.

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Restoration Fan · « **Reply #419 on:** January 10, 2016, 06:36:09 AM »

I did not loosen the bolts to do the re-torque. I just went back through the pattern...torquing to the desired #'s. Most of mine didn't even move as they were at the spec...but 2 or 3 of them actually tightened a smidge or so.

timbo750 · « **Reply #420 on:** January 10, 2016, 11:23:45 PM »

I have now re-torqued the head. And started on the cam installation, did everything according to the HM bible with the nickles. Then when it came time to install the cam and cam gear it was not as easy as I would of thought. Not that I thought it was going to be super easy but this was very difficult.
Once I got the cam in place the only way to get the cam gear on was to torque down the cam towers then it was still very tight. Its so tight I think I the tensioner would do nothing. I am thinking now that I have either installed the cam guide or rollers incorrectly or the cam is too short.

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timbo750 · « **Reply #421 on:** January 11, 2016, 04:16:44 PM »

The current plan is to first count the number of links on the chain, this is just to check if somehow I got the wrong chain. I doubt that the rollers are installed wrong, I had a look at the parts diagram and there is almost no way to install incorrectly. The slipper guide may be in upside down and if so I don't know if it will cause the chain to be too tight. If anyone has any other ideas or similar experience some feedback would be great.

Davez134 · « **Reply #422 on:** January 11, 2016, 07:21:56 PM »

Is it possible the chain is not sitting on the crankshaft sprocket correctly, like off to one side? I know it's unlikely, but a simple thing to check. Do you have the gear on the cam and bolted in place? I know mine seemed like it was right until I got the sprocket in place. Sorry that's all I can think of right now.

timbo750 · « **Reply #423 on:** January 11, 2016, 08:37:42 PM »

I had a look under neath and it all looked ok but the only light I had at the time was the phone, I will check again with a brighter torch. The cam chain is on the sprocket but was very hard to get on and is not bolted yet as I got the timing messed up in the effort to fit it.

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Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #424 on:** January 11, 2016, 09:19:14 PM »

Cam chain on first followed by the sprocket with the beveled hole side inward.

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Author Topic: CB 750 Project 1 - Rides Well but a few tweaks needed (Read 116418 times)