Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 295064 times)

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1375 on:** February 06, 2017, 10:46:08 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on February 06, 2017, 10:33:55 AM

Its going to be 72* here tomorrow. I'm filling up the tank today! Its been months, literally, since I rode my bike. My son on the other hand, has been enjoying it immensely and keeping it in condition for me

Just like kids to bring it home on empty!

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #1376 on:** February 06, 2017, 11:03:40 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on February 06, 2017, 11:02:03 AM

Ron throw a 1-piece rain suit in your tank bag. Slip that on, and you'll be right as rain (sorry about that pun). Seriously though, the windproof nature makes a HUGE difference in cold weather riding, plus the 1-piece really helps keep your warmth inside.

Of course, had you sat down and eaten a taco or two before the ride, methane-filled rain suit would have helped even more.

Funny you should mention that but I was looking at those this weekend. I have to buy one for the trip I'm taking in August where we'll be riding from Pittsburgh up through Canada and back for 9 days.

BLAC · « **Reply #1377 on:** February 06, 2017, 12:08:16 PM »

I (sloppily) updated the squirrel for you... a more appropriate nut.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1378 on:** February 06, 2017, 01:07:15 PM »

Damn! That makes for a good logo!

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1379 on:** February 06, 2017, 01:41:14 PM »

You have to do the gray as well as the black for the contrast to work... All black some of the squirrel's outline would just be odd.
We can get him some Cling Window decals to put on the inside of the fixed windows on the Jeep, rolldown windows scrape them off in the door and they are a pain to get out, or they get blown out of the car when rolling the windows down or they are dropping inside the car.
If you want a more durable solution you apply the vinyl to the window instead of on window cling film.
Don't stretch the vinyl decal putting it on the window cling, it will cause it to pucker the cling film.

David

joeyvans · « **Reply #1380 on:** February 06, 2017, 01:54:40 PM »

Chris - are your sidecovers still taking offers for logo/naming rights? Just sayin....

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1381 on:** February 06, 2017, 02:26:49 PM »

I know a guy who rides a GL650 Silverwing Interstate (dressed up 650cc twisted twin "baby Goldwing Interstate"; Interstate signifies fairing and bags in Goldwing and Silverwing bikes)
He has had 2 or 3 bird strikes on the fairing body or windshield, one of which was a big hawk... I think he also tagged a groundhog. So, he had a local sign shop do small Bird outline and groundhog outline images with a diagonal strike through symbol on them. He put them on the front fairing just below handlebar height...wearing them like they are Warbird kill markings for Aces.

A CX500 rider in Florida was rear ended at the same traffic light when stopped for the red and stopped quite a while when 2 different female drivers rear-ended him with one of the accidents hitting him so hard he had to transplant his good motor into another frame because she totaled the bike. The accidents happened just over a year apart. Don't know what kind of kill marking that would be.

A few members have had deer hit them, one guy was seriously injured and it was over 6 months before he could return to work. The deer T boned him so hard I believe if I recall correctly it caved the side of the tank in to the backbone. NOT EASY to do.
It was a buck and he apparently was intending to get across the road...Vigorously.
I think the bike was totaled because of the extent of the damage. Not hard to do on bikes no one pays much for anymore...
Luckily he had good insurance and didn't lose his job or go bankrupt from the bills. He also had good protective gear on. It took over a year before he was able to get back on a bike and be moving better, stronger...fortunately he wasn't killed or maimed for life.
Lots of motorcyclist die from hitting deer, dogs, pigs, or even a groundhog. It is best to try to avoid if you can but usually you don't have enough warning to do anything other than try to relax so you aren't injured as much as you would be if you tense up.

riverfever · « **Reply #1382 on:** February 06, 2017, 04:04:56 PM »

Well. I just got home. Red M Lock wire straight to battery POS. Green to battery NEG. Brown to the LOCK input on M Unit. Connected power to the M Unit and tried the fob. Nada. Removed the knurled cap on the kick ass mount that Cal made. M Unit powered right up and shut off with the user fob. SOB. Don't get me wrong...I'm thrilled to have figured out the issue and relieved that it wasn't because of a wiring/soldering mistake that I knew would reveal itself once Cal had it in his hands which would result in endless hazing. But I am truly bummed at the thought of not being able to use that piece because it's so trick.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1383 on:** February 06, 2017, 04:12:43 PM »

Quote from: riverfever on February 06, 2017, 04:04:56 PM

Well. I just got home. Red M Lock wire straight to battery POS. Green to battery NEG. Brown to the LOCK input on M Unit. Connected power to the M Unit and tried the fob. Nada. Removed the knurled cap on the kick ass mount that Cal made. M Unit powered right up and shut off with the user fob. SOB. Don't get me wrong...I'm thrilled to have figured out the issue and relieved that it wasn't because of a wiring/soldering mistake that I knew would reveal itself once Cal had it in his hands which would result in endless hazing. But I am truly bummed at the thought of not being able to use that piece because it's so trick.

DISLIKE!

Stev-o · « **Reply #1384 on:** February 06, 2017, 04:19:09 PM »

So the kickass mount is the issue but why? What can be done??

540nova · « **Reply #1385 on:** February 06, 2017, 05:10:33 PM »

Can you post a picture of the housing?

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riverfever · « **Reply #1386 on:** February 06, 2017, 05:24:39 PM »

I measured things just a bit ago and the lip on the cap covers right about 1.5mm of the outer edge of that sensor.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #1387 on:** February 06, 2017, 07:13:09 PM »

So the threads on the outside of that piece...what do they screw into? Is it possible the metal (aluminum?) housing of the piece is causing a false ground? If so, have you tried getting a big rubber o-ring and eliminating metal-to-metal contact...if that's even possible?

Or could it be something where you can tape off most of it and spray a non-conductive material like truck bed liner on the bottom to eliminate metal-to-metal contact?

I'll admit I'm not even sure how that piece is used. I'm just throwing ideas out.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #1388 on:** February 07, 2017, 12:56:32 AM »

Hey Cal, even a blind squirrel occasionally finds a nut...
Sorry that my guess turned out to be true. Could the aperture be enlarged?
Or fitted with a glass cover over the end mounted into a two piece cap? Or just give it a small lip and O-Ring with the glass bezel between cap and cylinder body?
I know, I'm quick to create more work for you...
lest you forget I am a bastage rat or was that rat bastage...

Could it be that the housing is providing a slight bit of compression on the Mlock causing a circuit or component to bridge open...that is, defective unit.
Will it work if you just operate it with the cap off? That could isolate it.
From what I learned in electronics years ago, the RF shouldn't be emanating from the sides, while the wave form may have reflection from the body it shouldn't have a negative affect but if the wave form is two points radiating outward, the frequency and therefore the timing of the signal could be just perfect to have one signal be reflected 180 degrees out of phase with the other reflected signal and thereby serve to nearly zero the signal. Pretty farfetched swag grasping at the theory of the housing hosing your signal from the lock.

If it doesn't work with the cap off, will it work with the cap off and the lock pulled 1/4 of the way out of the housing? How about 1/2 way? or 3/4 of the way?
If the housing is causing reflections, then without the cap to do something, and if the sides were causing it, then that test I just described could point to that or some variant of something like that.

Hope this gets figured out without a lot of work. Maybe shipping the lock and housing back to you you could test it with your lock? And it could be tested with a replacement lock to ensure it wasn't going to have the same issue...

So, How about a phenolic tube or a fiberglass tube with some Kevlar? (NO CARBON FIBER, it definitely causes electronic and radio frequency issues)
Kevlar would make the tube become very resistant to cutting to access or defeat. Naturally just cutting the wires would be more logical if the mlock can be defeated by a simple hotwire...or does the MUnit have the intelligence to defeat the ignition if the mlock is tampered with after being programmed with it.

Quote from: calj737 on February 06, 2017, 04:27:08 PM

I've already got an email into MotoGadget, plus a few other electronics experts. I can't believe there's signal interference caused by a cap, especially with the aperture.

Chris, post some better pictures of the sensor installed. I can't seem to locate them in your thread?

It's all Davids fault for jinxing us with the idea. That rat bastage!

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #1389 on:** February 07, 2017, 04:18:01 AM »

David may have hit on an idea there though. How difficult would it be to make a second one of those out of some type machinable hard plastic like Delrin or extruded nylon? Perhaps that might cause less interference and should definitely eliminate any possible contact/grounding issues.

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #1390 on:** February 07, 2017, 05:22:11 AM »

Got it.
Shape will be a b***h but could you just put the cap back into the lathe and turn it down to be thinner to alleviate the potential of thickness being the issue. (Although I've heard before that size does not matter, I don't find that to be true in most things.)

540nova · « **Reply #1391 on:** February 07, 2017, 06:25:26 AM »

From Motogadget site..."The hidden mounting of the small m.lock, covered by NON-METALIC parts like e.g. a plastic side panel, permits completely removing the mechanic ignition lock. "
Oops!

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RAFster122s · « **Reply #1392 on:** February 07, 2017, 08:00:16 AM »

And here I thought you might like a bottle of fine TN whiskey with that salted caramel creamy delicious flavor... Or their many variants of legal shine...

I have half a mind to go retrieve Chris's pet squirrel he relocated to his winter home and deliver it to Richmond, but first I'm going to find the ornery chatterbox of a female to mate with him to have a huge litter of little ones and then I'm bringing the papa, and then the momma and then the hellion offspring a few at a time. Going to send them through SERE training and teach them how to defeat locks and open windows and doors that are locked. Nothing will be safe from their claws and teeth until you bust a cap to stop them.

Fine, we ain't friends no mo... U har them banjos tunin up yet?

David

540nova · « **Reply #1393 on:** February 07, 2017, 08:15:53 AM »

I've seen online how to make theft proof RFID wallets out of aluminum foil and duct tape, so I'm not surprised the aluminum housing blocks the signal.

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #1394 on:** February 07, 2017, 09:05:25 AM »

I'll have to think of an aperture to my electronics pan for the M-Lock I have planned.

540nova · « **Reply #1395 on:** February 07, 2017, 11:10:26 AM »

One option is, if you're having a seat custom made or reupholstered, put the chip in the foam., just under the cover.

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RAFster122s · « **Reply #1396 on:** February 07, 2017, 03:17:02 PM »

There are special foils used to defeat the more sophisticated scanners. Had sleeves lined with the stuff issued with CAC card by Armed Forces.

riverfever · « **Reply #1397 on:** February 07, 2017, 04:59:11 PM »

Originally, we talked about having the M Lock mounted on the electrical panel but I was concerned it would have problems reading. I never thought this mount would present a problem.

I got a bit more work done on the mounts for the rear turn signals tonight. I used the same design as the other tabs (inch wide flat aluminum that's 1/8" thick) but made them 6mm longer. Real happy with how this is going to turn out. I just need to finish sanding them and then paint.

540nova · « **Reply #1398 on:** February 07, 2017, 05:09:37 PM »

I've got those on my bike, front and rear. SUPER bright. May I suggest once you install them the final time, put a drop of blue Loctite on the threads. Finish off with shrink tubing over the threads sticking out, and install a very small black zip tie to keep the shrink tubing from migrating off, if it's not shrunk very tightly on.

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540nova · « **Reply #1399 on:** February 07, 2017, 05:11:08 PM »

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Author Topic: 1976 CB500/550 Project "Squirrel" (Read 295064 times)