Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 160130 times)

MickB · « **Reply #925 on:** May 20, 2016, 09:06:55 PM »

I'm seriously thinking of a new electronic ignition

riverfever · « **Reply #926 on:** May 20, 2016, 09:13:37 PM »

Congratulations Mick! You did a lovely job on the resto. Paint looks fantastic. You should be very proud.

bryanj · « **Reply #927 on:** May 20, 2016, 10:15:45 PM »

Nothing in the generator cover to blow fuse unless the centre coil has a short, never had a leak in that area so try a proper O ring BUT are you sure its not coming down from inside the sprocket cover from gearchange seal; pressure switch or oil pump cover?

MickB · « **Reply #928 on:** May 20, 2016, 10:50:22 PM »

BJ it's definitely leaking from the oil passage plug (I've ordered an genuine Honda O ring $8.50 !!!), I don't believe there's any seals leaking from the oil pump, gear change or the final drive.

To the Brains Trusts here, what Electronic Ignition should I get (just got new coils from 4 into 1 - 3 Ohm I believe)?

Riverfever thanks for your comments.

BTW, how do I get my descriptor "Expert" changed to "Intermediate"

RAFster122s · « **Reply #929 on:** May 21, 2016, 01:10:23 PM »

If you are using the 3.0 ohm coils HondaMan has a 1 ohm resistor pack that is very nice for not having as much drain on the system. It would help cure your battery drain issues... The stator on the 550 just doesn't put out tons of amps in charging unless as Cal said, you aren't in stop and go and you are above 5-6k for 90% of your ride.

If you want to put the 3 ohm coils on the 550 you could pick up the pair of coils from one of the 750 suppliers that sells them for under a $100 for the pair. They are a nice twin outlet design like the stock Tec units and HondaMan recommends them for folks who need a replacement and don't want to spring for the 5 ohm Dyna or other units.

David

3 Ohm coil thread...
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=30938.msg318468#msg318468

HondaMan's Ignition compared to Dyna S, etc. specs and analysis by HondaMan...
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=29545.0;topicseen

MickB · « **Reply #930 on:** May 22, 2016, 02:50:12 AM »

Thanks for the feedback, I'll try and find out what's causing the fuse to burn out first.

MickB · « **Reply #931 on:** May 23, 2016, 12:19:11 AM »

Worked all day to fix the fuse issue.

With the key off and with the meter set to continuity the black wire buzzes at the regulator end and at the switch connection under the tank. I pulled out both black wires from the handlebars so they weren't connected and still the fuse blew!

I'm stumped.

MickB · « **Reply #932 on:** May 23, 2016, 06:10:54 PM »

Cal

Photos as suggested

Note the White mark next to the pin.

Also note the flasher can it turns in its housing. Is that normal? A black wire was attached to the pin where the wire mark is.

Could a dodgy regulator or rectifier cause the fuse to melt?

MickB · « **Reply #933 on:** May 23, 2016, 06:15:53 PM »

What gets me is I was riding it home when the fuse blew, I had the right indicator on when the bike stopped.
Up until then it was running fine, electrically that is.

MickB · « **Reply #934 on:** May 23, 2016, 08:33:30 PM »

I think this is the problem

Initially the female side was pushed backwards and as a result the red power was arcing to the female and creating heat.

Then the male side was pushed out and the problem reoccurred.

The connectors are so old and worn I'll have to put a new connector to replace the old one.

I did get it to start and run after I made sure the red power was secure.

MickB · « **Reply #935 on:** May 23, 2016, 08:55:23 PM »

Reconnected the power wire, ensured male and female sides were inserted correctly - Fuse blew immediately, pulled the black wires from the kill switch- blew fuse immediately, at least I've eliminated the RH control. I don't think it was the flasher as it worked fine, as also the headlight and brake lights when I got it to run.

It must be in the electrics I think.

I didn't have neutral or oil pressure idiot lights working when I had it running and the electrics were hanging on the side.

As soon as I move the electric plate it seems then the fuse blows, something's touching somewhere.

MickB · « **Reply #936 on:** May 23, 2016, 09:53:42 PM »

Pulled the front brake switch wire out still the fuse blew, pulled off the solenoid and it still blew!

I use the meter on continuity and on the black wire and touching the frame I get a buzzing.

I pulled both black RH Control wires then no continuity buzz and the fuse still blew??

When the RH wires are disconnected I don't get continuity buzz?? Go figure?

MickB · « **Reply #937 on:** May 23, 2016, 10:09:25 PM »

I touch the black and white wire going to the negative on the 2&3 coil and get a buzz with the key off. Is this significant? But no buzz on the 1&3 coil?

MickB · « **Reply #938 on:** May 23, 2016, 10:26:05 PM »

I just pulled off the alternator, oil and neutral harness from the electrics and it started but no neutral or oil pressure light. Everything else worked indicators etc.

The problem must be in either the alternator, oil pressure, neutral or the harness somewhere.

Could it be also in the idiot light area? It has a black wire?

I'm wondering if the alternator has a fault in it after the oil plug leaked oil into that area? Has it killed the stator or coil field?

bryanj · « **Reply #939 on:** May 23, 2016, 11:31:21 PM »

Similar alternator coils to 750 and that runs in oil so extremely doubtful for that to be problem, what is common is for the rubber round the idiot light to allow a short when it get old and fragile.

If oil switch or neutral wire shorted to ground that is what they do to make bulb light so not a probable cause, what would cause a short is if the white power feed to the centre coil was shorting somewhere, the green goes to ground anyway

MickB · « **Reply #940 on:** May 23, 2016, 11:34:41 PM »

Thanks BJ really appreciate the tips, I've had enough today, I had a look at the idiot lights and no obvious fault but I'll certainly have a closer look tomorrow.

I don't think it's the coil as it started and ran no problems with the alternator harness unplugged (no oil or neutral idiot lights however).

BJ BTW I put a new O ring on the plug today, book says 13 x 2.5, I put a 13 x 3.0 so I hope I've fixed it.

I did run the bike without the cover on and you were right it popped the oil plug out like a bullet (I only had it just sitting in the channel, I could still see the O ring) and I didn't realise, my tool box was under the plug area so I conveniently collected some of the oil in the tool box- GREAT, the rest went over the concrete!

MickB · « **Reply #941 on:** May 24, 2016, 12:05:22 AM »

BJ I just remembered I'd unplugged the black wire from the idiot lights from the main loom and it still blew the fuse.
I'm really wondering about the alternator?

MickB · « **Reply #942 on:** May 24, 2016, 05:20:53 AM »

Cal I don't have a fuse for the head or tail lights. I only have 1 fuse.
I hear what you're saying I'll look again.

bryanj · « **Reply #943 on:** May 24, 2016, 07:45:45 AM »

Just be careful you don't let the smoke escape from the loom, Lucas used to have a part number for it but long obsolete.

Start with everything disconnected and a meter from the black to ground and keep attaching things until it grounds and hopefully the last thing attached is your fault.

Normal places to look are in the headlamp where everything is crammed in and also the switch wires through the bars as sometimes the insulation gets snagged as its fed through

RAFster122s · « **Reply #944 on:** May 24, 2016, 01:50:03 PM »

You need to install the slow blow fuse... Like this:

MickB · « **Reply #945 on:** May 24, 2016, 02:45:19 PM »

That's what I was thinking RAF

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #946 on:** May 24, 2016, 04:20:47 PM »

Quote from: RAF122S on May 24, 2016, 01:50:03 PM

You need to install the slow blow fuse... Like this:

bryanj · « **Reply #947 on:** May 25, 2016, 09:23:32 AM »

Don't forget to source a bottle of Harness Smoke before you fit that slow blow fuse

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #948 on:** May 25, 2016, 09:30:33 AM »

RAFster122s · « **Reply #949 on:** May 25, 2016, 11:35:45 PM »

I figured the smiley was a given with that recommendation, but you want the fire bottle handy if you did that...
I should post a pic of an old Volvo 245 fusebox, the ceramic fuses are perfect size to fit a 22LR in their place.
Lots of urban legend folklore of 22s being used as fuses in some hayseed's truck.

News:

Author Topic: CB 500 Four (1972?) Full Restoration (Read 160130 times)