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Offline Sandy

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When points go bad
« on: June 02, 2014, 07:24:31 AM »
Howdy everyone:

Hopefully, this is the latest and final problem with the 1969 CB750.  Riding along the Kansas Highways at about 4,200rpm (65 mph), about 80 degrees and sunny, after about 50 miles, the engine began misfiring and backfiring.  Nursed it home and started to work on it.  Float bowls were full, spark plugs were OK, spark plug tester showed the same current on all four plugs, so I was baffled.  Took off the points cover and saw the 1-4 sparking normally, but the 2-3 had no spark at all.  The complete points system has about 1,000 miles on new condensers and new points.  Did the condenser go bad?  Can anybody give me some direction as to how to fix this?  Thanks to all in advance.

JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750

Offline 70CB750

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2014, 07:27:19 AM »
I would look into either Pamco or Hondaman electronic ignition system.  Very likely the best money you will ever spend on your bike.
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Offline flybox1

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2014, 07:28:44 AM »
what brand were your 'new' points/condensers?
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Offline iron_worker

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2014, 08:00:38 AM »
Even if your condensors went bad I would think you should still get some spark from that coil. You would, however, get a lot of arcing at the points and they would burn up pretty quick. Unless your condensor somehow grounded itself out and is not allowing the point to open the circuit?

Have you checked the resistance across your coils? Plug wires/caps all good and tight?

IW

Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2014, 08:28:01 AM »
Quote
but the 2-3 had no spark at all
Could it be the 2-3 breakerpoints connector shorts to ground somehow? Maybe vibrations have caused this.
With ignition ON and killswitch in RUN do you read any voltage when 2-3 points are open?
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Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2014, 10:35:44 AM »
Thanks everybody;

flybox1 - I purchased the points and condenser from CB750 Supply - I believe they are Daiichi.

Deltarider - The bike is really buzzing at 4,200+ rpms, mirrors are blurring, but the motor just hums along nicely.  I will check the output as per your recommendation.

70CB750 - I've looked at Pamco, but I think their coils won't work.  The output to the plug area is OK, but it looks like the rear section of the coils would bind against the strap that holds the coil package to the frame.

iron-worker:  I will test the resistance across the coils.  The plug wires are not so good and tight - I can move them side-to-side when they are attached to the plugs.


JohnD
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2014, 01:22:25 PM »
Howdy everyone:

Hopefully, this is the latest and final problem with the 1969 CB750.  Riding along the Kansas Highways at about 4,200rpm (65 mph), about 80 degrees and sunny, after about 50 miles, the engine began misfiring and backfiring.  Nursed it home and started to work on it.  Float bowls were full, spark plugs were OK, spark plug tester showed the same current on all four plugs, so I was baffled.  Took off the points cover and saw the 1-4 sparking normally, but the 2-3 had no spark at all.  The complete points system has about 1,000 miles on new condensers and new points.  Did the condenser go bad?  Can anybody give me some direction as to how to fix this?  Thanks to all in advance.

Spark at the points explained.

When the points are closed, current flows through them and into the coils.  The coils build up a magnetic field, which holds until the current is interrupted, as when the points open.  This is where the major action takes place.  When the magnetic field collapses, the lines of flux now crossing the coil's windings induces a voltage within them.  This voltage will exist as long as the mag field is collapsing.  As the coil consists of both primary and secondary windings, voltage is created in both of these windings as the field collapses.

In large part, what happens in the secondary is "reflected" in the primary on a smaller scale.
So, let's talk first about what happens in the secondary circuit.  As stated, when the field collapses, voltage builds in the secondary.  The secondary circuit consists of the secondary coil winding, the spark leads, the coil leads, two spark plug caps, the spark plug electrode gaps, and the electrical connection between the plug electrodes through the cylinder head.  If the coil's stored magnetic field was large enough, there will eventually be enough voltage created (5-6KV) to ionize the atmosphere within the spark gaps, create a plasma channel conduit and allow current to flow in the secondary circuit and within the spark gaps of the spark plugs (spark).  The current flow essentially stops the voltage build up in the secondary circuit (energy being bled off), and as long as the coils mag field is still collapsing, current and voltage will be maintained within the spark gap.  Eventually, the coils stored energy will be expended, and the spark event will cease, as the voltage will become too low to sustain the plasme channel between the spark electrodes.  All this takes place during a span of time in the 40 millisecond range.

Voltage in the primary circuit.
Normally, when the points open, the built up field in the coil collapses, as stated above.  As the field collapses, voltage is created in the primary windings.  With a very small gap at the point opening ramp, the 200V or so volts potential across the gap creates a small spark.  During this spark there is current.  The coil's voltage rise leads the current build up by about 90 degrees, however a capacitor causes current to rise faster than the voltage by about 90 degrees.  Using both these devices in the same circuit during points spark mitigates the power factor and thus point contact heating.  The capacitors (condensers) do not eliminate points sparking, just minimize its detrimental effects.
The capacitor also speeds the collapse of the coils primary field (and thus the secondary's, too), because of its current leading charge characteristics.  This speeding of collapse intensifies and quickens the voltage build up in the secondary circuit, as more lines of flux cross the secondary wires in a given time period.

So what can go wrong?
Well, a spark difference noted at the points must also effect the quality of spark at the plug electrodes..  Even though there is still sparking occurring there, it's different than what it should be.  The difference could be caused by either a primary or the secondary issue (or both).
Gotta start somewhere.  So, let's go to the primary side.  Ideal capacitors (condensers) have no direct current path between their two connection points. In reality, they do have a small amount (close to infinity) and failed capacitors can decrease that resistance toward zero.  The effect in this circuit would be a smaller buildup of magnetic field in the coil.  A 9KV capability coil can still produce the 5-6KV needed at the spark gap, even with diminished input.  It's just the spark duration is shortened.

So, cheap and easy test is swap the condensers on the bike and see if the point's spark difference follows the condenser.  If so, probably a faulty condenser needs replacing.

Do check the point contact surface for carbon build up.  As carbon is resistive, it can also change the coil's mag field buildup and fall.

The secondary circuit can also cause spark visual changes at the points.
Dirty plugs can, in effect, shorten the gap and require less voltage to create the plasma channel.  Less voltage at the plugs, is reflected back into the primary circuit as less voltage fed back toward the points.

Plug cap resistors can fail, either by changing their value, or actually parting (open).  The plugs still fire, but the extra gap increases the voltage needed to jump all the gaps present in the secondary circuit.  So, instead of needing only 5Kv to make spark in the secondary, perhaps 7KV is required.  Again the higher voltage development in the secondary is reflected back to the primary and is seen as a brighter spark at the points.
Extra gaps may also be at the secondary lead connection points, too.  All the gaps in the secondary circuit increase the voltage requirements to jump all the gaps present.  The larger the sum of the gaps, the higher the voltage needed to arc at all of them.  The higher the voltage developed in the secondary, the brighter and more severe the sparking at the points.

Poor secondary insulation.
Cracks and deterioration of the spark leads, can lead to shunting of voltage and power in the secondary circuit.  This can lead to misfires if the coil energy is shunted off too quickly, in which case the primary would see less power/sparking, too.  Or, it can raise the voltage needed to actually spark the plugs.  Raise the secondary voltage, and the voltage seen at the points increases, as well.


Now that you understand the above, I'll mention the effect of "high voltage" coils.
The stock coils can make about 9-12KV in ideal circumstances.  But, the spark gaps and the atmosphere composition between the electrodes determines that actual voltage developed in the secondary.  Simply replacing the coils with ones that can develop more than 12KV, does NOT mean the plugs fire at that higher voltage.  In fact, they fire at exactly the same voltage as the stock coils.  They will increase the current while the plugs are sparking (more electrode erosion) and/or allow the plugs to be set at a higher gap distance, which will increase the actual voltage needed to jump the increased gaps.  Higher voltage capability is needed if the atmosphere between the spark electrodes is changed, as it would be when the engine compression ratios are changed.  So, realize that just because a high compression engine needs a higher output coil, does NOT mean a higher output coil will make more power in an unmodified engine.  In fact, it will consume more electrical power without providing any benefit unless other changes are made to exploit the higher voltage capability.

So, be wary of salesmen or marketeers, that tout high voltage coils, particularly with "bench-proof".  Unless you plan to install that bench into your engine cylinders, it will be a placebo for your mind, rather than a real benefit to you or your bike.

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
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Offline flybox1

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2014, 01:38:59 PM »
Daiichi Points - good info here.   http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=59886.0
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Offline pamcopete

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2014, 03:10:19 PM »
Thanks everybody;


70CB750 - I've looked at Pamco, but I think their coils won't work.  The output to the plug area is OK, but it looks like the rear section of the coils would bind against the strap that holds the coil package to the frame.



That strap is not used with the 17-6903 "Ultimate Coils" so there is no interference.




Offline pamcopete

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2014, 03:50:56 PM »
Using a higher voltage coil has several advantages. It is not the spark itself that ignites the air fuel mixture. It is the heat produced by the spark that ignites the mixture. A higher voltage from the coil will produce higher current in the spark gap which in turn produces more heat. Higher voltage also enables you to increase the spark plug gap which increases the amount of mixture that is exposed to the heat of the spark. This results in a larger initial kernel of ignited mixture which in turn ignites more of the remaining mixture, producing more power and better gas mileage. It's like lighting the camp fire with a bigger match.

The added benefit to using a higher voltage coil is that it will produce a more usable spark when the battery is low, especially when starting. One of the reasons that stock coils producing only 12K or so of voltage will not start the engine is that they still produce a voltage sufficient to jump the spark plug gap, but the spark does not produce sufficient heat to ignite the mixture. How many of us have experienced the phenomena of having spark but the engine just won't start?

There is also a large change in the atmosphere in the cylinder depending on a number of factors, including operating temperature, quality of the mixture and the load on the engine, so having a higher voltage available at the plug makes it more likely that the mixture will ignite under all conditions.
« Last Edit: June 02, 2014, 04:04:30 PM by pamcopete »

Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2014, 11:08:04 PM »
But it still is the gap and the let us say 'atmospheric' conditions in the combustion chamber that determine the voltage (the energy is measured in milliJoules btw) and not the coil in it self. When you gap wider than Honda recommends, be prepared for more erosion at the plug tips and a higher risk of the spark bridging elsewhere like from the HTlead or sparkplugcap to the enginehead. SOHC-fours can (and do) suffer from that already in stock condition.
I've never experienced any improvement going from stock coils to Dyna 3 Ohm (36.000 Volts, boy, oh boy was I impressed! :D) coils. On the contrary, one of the Dyna's was shot after only 30.000 kms where the stock coils still live both after 75.000 kms.
When you need a better cold start you could  consider 3 Ohm coils with a switchable 1,5 ballast resistor. If I remember well, the first Goldwings had a similar set up. But a stock condition SOHCFour should have a good cold start. As a matter of fact, it was one of the things that Honda impressed us with in 1969.
Any claims concerning a better performance and/or gas mileage should be accompanied by verifiable data.
« Last Edit: June 02, 2014, 11:37:54 PM by Deltarider »
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Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2014, 03:58:18 PM »
Any claims concerning a better performance and/or gas mileage should be accompanied by verifiable data.

As should your claims to the contrary... Don't you think..?

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Offline lucky

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2014, 05:25:29 PM »
Howdy everyone:

Hopefully, this is the latest and final problem with the 1969 CB750.  Riding along the Kansas Highways at about 4,200rpm (65 mph), about 80 degrees and sunny, after about 50 miles, the engine began misfiring and backfiring.  Nursed it home and started to work on it.  Float bowls were full, spark plugs were OK, spark plug tester showed the same current on all four plugs, so I was baffled.  Took off the points cover and saw the 1-4 sparking normally, but the 2-3 had no spark at all.  The complete points system has about 1,000 miles on new condensers and new points.  Did the condenser go bad?  Can anybody give me some direction as to how to fix this?  Thanks to all in advance.

The purpose of the points is NOT to make sparks.
The purpose of the points is to open allowing the charge built up to go to the spark plugs.

The points MUST have the right gap but also the correct DWELL at the same time.
You can get a good and simple dwell meter from SEARS

A condenser and Capacitor is the same thing.
It stores up energy while the engine is turning around and until the points open to the correct gap.
The condenser is measured in microfarads, The Honda CB750 condenser is rated at 22u and you cannot test it wit a multimeter.

Always put in new condensers when you install new points.
Make sure to clean the points cam and smear a little high temp disc brake grease on the cam.

Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #13 on: June 03, 2014, 11:40:11 PM »
Quote
As should your claims to the contrary... Don't you think..?
I'm afraid I don't understand the logic.
What I do understand, is that you can sell people a lot of stuff in the field of the mysterious and often invisible powers electricitry and magnetism.

Any news, Sandy?
« Last Edit: June 04, 2014, 12:22:07 AM by Deltarider »
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Offline Retro Rocket

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #14 on: June 04, 2014, 01:18:35 AM »
Quote
As should your claims to the contrary... Don't you think..?
I'm afraid I don't understand the logic.
Any news, Sandy?

If electronic ignitions didn't "perform" better , everything would still have points...?  I have 34 years old dyna coils that still work fine as well....
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Offline PeWe

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2014, 03:07:29 AM »
CB750 K6-76  970cc (Earlier 1005cc JMR Billet block on the shelf waiting for a comeback)
CB750 K2-75 Parts assembled to a stock K2

Updates of the CB750 K6 -1976
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180468.msg2092136.html#msg2092136
The billet block build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,49438.msg1863571.html#msg1863571
CB750 K2 -1975  build thread
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168243.msg1948381.html#msg1948381
K2 engine build thread. For a complete CB750 -75
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,180088.msg2088008.html#msg2088008
Carb jetting, a long story Mikuni TMR32
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,179479.msg2104967.html#msg2104967

Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #16 on: June 04, 2014, 05:30:02 AM »
Hi everybody:

I am still digging this out.  Ordered a new condenser from CB750Supply - won't be here until next week, I think.  I did test the 45 year old coils - and they were both at 5,200 or 5,300, so I think my problem is not the coils.  I then installed a brand new coil (from CB750Supply) - it tested at 5,100 - and installed it on the 2-3 coil bracket.  Started the motor and, again the 1-4 sparked hugely whereas the 2-3 had a teeny spark.  Still not sure what is wrong, but I will install the new condenser, scrape the 2-3 set of points until clean and then let you all know what happens. 

What I have not yet tried is to see which cylinders are either not working or partly working.  I will put my hand on each of the exhausts and see which pipe is backfiring - that should also tell me what might be wrong with the ignition.  Please remember that when the motor was turned off after my problem started, the 2-3 pipe measured 150 - 160 on the digital gauge whereas the 1-4 pipes only hit about 100, so I maybe going about this the wrong way - it could be the 1-4 ignition and not the 2-3.

Thanks to everybody for your assistance - when I get to the bottom of this, I will let everybody know.  I do appreciate the help.
JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750

Offline Spanner 1

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #17 on: June 04, 2014, 06:22:14 AM »
Sheesh !... all kinds of fightin' over nothing only a bad condenser... !, so SOHC4 !!  Backfiring on a fully hot ( rode for 50 miles @ highway speeds ) engine starts to backfire ? Classic condenser failure when hot ;)         
« Last Edit: June 04, 2014, 06:24:57 AM by Spanner 1 »
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Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #18 on: June 04, 2014, 08:05:28 AM »
Yep, could well be. Intermittent shorting gives about the same result.
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Offline toobad

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #19 on: June 04, 2014, 02:07:17 PM »
Hello Sandy - I have a 73 CB500 and developed the same exact problem.  It starting on a ride (popping and backfiring, along with a feeling and sound like it was running out of gas).  Figured my pet cock puked so I tore it down.  Worked fine.  After warming up - same problem,  Changed out the coils - best spark I've ever had - ran great until it got warmed up.  After submitting to the forum, got some ideas.  Pulled the carbs and checked and adjusted the floats and generally cleaned everything up.  Same problem after warming up.  Replaced the condensers - same problem.  Replaced the points - yep "Dihatchi".  This is where our problems are identical.  I get juice to the 1 and 4 points - nothing to 2 and 3.  Had no problems with setting the gaps.  I could also  adjust the timing on 1 & 4 but not 2 & 3 - no juice.  I also swapped the coil wires and they are fine.  Can't find any broken wires.  I'm over it so I orders me a Dyna S ignition DS1-2 ($135) today.  The dude who commented about if points are so good why are they putting electronic ignitions in everything is probably right.  This will probably bite the die hard ol's school but I am more interested in riding a reliable scoot than trying to fix what is wrong with it especially when it keeps kickin' my butt.  Check out http://www.pythonmotorsports.com/motorcycle%20parts/honda.htm and hopefully save yourself some time and trouble.  Good luck and let us know if you fixed it.

Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #20 on: June 04, 2014, 11:13:26 PM »
Toobad, are you seriously suggesting his problem can't be adressed without buying the stuff you bought? Could you specify who is 'ol's school' in this thread?
« Last Edit: June 04, 2014, 11:20:41 PM by Deltarider »
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Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #21 on: June 05, 2014, 05:47:09 AM »
Hi everybody:

This site and its members are the absolute greatest!!!!  Thanks to all of you.

PeWe:  Went to the site you referenced and found what I believe is my problem - picture attached - and it shows what my problem is :o.  When the new condenser comes in, I will attach it properly and let everybody know how it eventuates.  For me, it is tough to get old, but much easier to be old and stupid.  Thanks for that site thread.


JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750

Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #22 on: June 05, 2014, 06:08:23 AM »
Looking at your picture and zooming in I'd say the green wire end at the bottom (so to speak) of the U-spade (2+3) is still dangerously close to the 2.3 plate (and ground). Intermittent groundcontact will cause symptoms you described.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2014, 06:14:28 AM by Deltarider »
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Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #23 on: June 05, 2014, 08:01:36 AM »
Deltarider:

Thanks for your response.  If I had written the thread correctly, I would have also shown the "correct" wiring versus "my" wiring, so I will attach 2 more pictures of what is correct and what is not correct wiring of the condensers/points.  The first picture shows how these wires are properly attached.  The second picture shows that I did not wire the 2-3 condenser correctly and is most likely the problem that I have.  I will let everybody know when I get the new condenser attached.  Thanks to all.
JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750

Offline Deltarider

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #24 on: June 05, 2014, 08:21:59 AM »
Maybe this can help. Not all drawings of the 500/550 ignition plate are correct. This one is.
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Offline iron_worker

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #25 on: June 05, 2014, 09:28:13 AM »
I would say DeltaRider is probably correct in his initial assumption that your condenser connector is likely grounding out to the points plate the way it is positioned. Try loosening the little bolt that connects the condenser wire to the points and making sure neither the power wire connector or the condenser wire connector are in such a position that they can directly touch the points plate.

Something else to watch out for is there are two fiber washers and small fiber insulator "tube" (that goes around the little bolt which attaches the condenser connector) which keeps the the condensers and points from grounding directly to the points plate that you also have to be aware of when installing.

IW
« Last Edit: June 05, 2014, 09:55:36 AM by iron_worker »

Offline Spanner 1

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #26 on: June 05, 2014, 12:27:52 PM »
Nothing wrong with the way you have wired each point.... the point wire and the condenser wire do not need to be 'in order'..... both under the nut and washer is good, one under the head of the bolt and one under the nut also good !..... again it's just a bad condenser that fails with heat, change it out and done  :)
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Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #27 on: June 06, 2014, 02:31:31 PM »
Golly gosh, I've created a monster ::).  More than 600 views of this thread tells me I have several people who might think I know something about the SOHC ignition system.  Well, I do not :'( and here is the latest update.  New condenser and 2-3 points came in today.  Installed the condenser and also the points after I filed the contact surfaces and gapped them.  Started it and there was no change.  Pipes 1 and 4 had no heat, pipes 2-3 had heat.  So I came to a brilliant conclusion - it is not the 2-3 that is my problem, it is the 1-4.  Took the new condenser and placed it in the 1-4 slot, took the old condenser and re-installed it on 2-3 slot.  Engine started right away.  Still some backfiring, but my #4 slide seems to get stuck and the motor revs very fast for a very short time, so I must address that issue.  I will put a new coil on the 1-4 slot and see what happens and I will let everybody know.

About #4 carb slide - when I first put the carbs on I had the throttle pull above the frame and I thought that was correct.  A Honda mechanic had placed the throttle pull cable below the frame and I think that is causing the sticking.  Where do you gentlemen place your 4-1 throttle pull cable - above the frame or below it?  Thanks to all in advance.

Are we having fun yet ;D?
JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750

Offline toobad

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #28 on: June 09, 2014, 08:38:26 AM »
I posted a couple weeks ago that I had developed the exact same problem.   I gave up and bought a Dyna S.  Well after Deltarider bruised my ego a bit, I decided to give it one last shot and tore into my wiring yesterday - which I should have done at the very beginning.   Checked every wire for continuity and sure enough, the 2/3 (yellow) wire from the coil to the points was bad!   Decided to keep the points and condenser system and will either return (if they will accept a return-never opened the plastic bags) the Dyna S or keekp it in case it starts acting up again.  After I got it all timed up it runs great.  Need to put some reliability miles on it.  So if you have not done so already, go do a continuity check on your dead points wire - I believe you said the 2/3 (yellow).  I think you said you also replaced your coils and if they are afternarket they will probably have connectors vs hard wired into the coil case as the stock coils do.   Make sure you have the blue and yellow wires attached to the negative connectors indicated on the coil and your black and white wire to the positive connectors.  Also make sure you are connecting the blue wire to the 1/4 coil and the yellow to the 2/3.  Good luck and hope it works for you.

Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #29 on: June 10, 2014, 04:59:38 AM »
toobad:

Thanks for the response.  I am still working on it.  I am mostly positive that I did not have a problem with the 2-3 side.  I was not getting any heat ??? in the 1-4 pipes - almost cold to the touch whereas the 2-3 was hot.  So, I am now OK with the points/condenser for both sides and I will install a new coil on the 1-4 side, just to see if that solves the issues.  MY petcock developed a leak - I rebuilt it and the stop, run and reserves work just fine, but in the morning there was a gallon of fuel on the floor.  Installed a new one and it leaks also, might have a severe problem here >:( >:(.  I will keep everyone informed.  Thanks to everybody for all the assistance.
JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750

Offline Sandy

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Re: When points go bad
« Reply #30 on: June 12, 2014, 03:49:45 PM »
All is well that ends well.

Was totally mystified :o why the #1 cylinder was not getting hot, but found out the fuel tank was grounding one of the coil wires.  So, today I installed the new petcock and cranked the bike.  Started quickly and revved smoothly, but I need to get my gauges on the carbs to see if they are all in sync.  So, to bottom-line my issues, it was indeed a bad condenser that caused my issues and I now think I am on my way.  And I am using the 45 year old coils.   A gracious thank you to all who responded, and I hope we are all now better mechanics.  Well, I am much better, for sure ::) .  Thanks, everybody.
JohnD
1982 CBX; 1982 CB1100RC; 1983 CB1100F; 1969 CB750