Topic: Tapered Steering Bearings Thread

[bryanj]

It should be all the way in but that race is fubar with the lines and pits. When all the way in the only way to get them out is with a dremel as the top lip is hidden

[PeWe]

If you turn it slowly and feel no dents it should be OK.
There is a risk that there qre small dents making it to almost stop when lightly turned.

My last CB750 K2 build had also tapered bearings from a PO many years ago. Looked OK but I felt a dent that added friction during a very light turn. This is not accepted by vehicle inspection here so I bought a new set.

I replaced one by one and tested after each. It was the lower race that caused it. Difficult to see damages. Maybe a badly done install. I tested on the triple with no forks in.

My K6 however, where I installed  the bearings early 80's are still OK. These last forever as long as they are not  banged together. This kind of bearings are used as car wheel bearings and have s very tough life compared with steering on a bike.

[754]

Could be stain on the race, give it the fingernail test , see if it's a pit
 2 ways to getveaces out, it wrecks them
 Weld 2 beads on the bearing about 7/8 long, shoukd shrink it enough.
 Or weld a strap across it,  or a big washer, then knock it out.

[Alan F.]

I've long considered making a thin bushing to put up in the neck before the race, so I can drive the race out if I ever need to. Diameter is easily remembered as 1.969" (50mm) never figured out minimum thickness, maybe .030-.040" (.75-1mm)  would do? That's just a little thicker than the lower seal and shouldn't affect much.

[bryanj]

Pewe, wheel bearings last a long time because they rotate complete revolutions which is what they are designed for, i'm guessing the maximum angle lock to lock of a bike is 90 degree and for most of the time they are in one position so although the rollers are relatively long will still indent into the race causing exactly the same "notchy" steering as worn ball races and fail inspection. Go ask the Goldwing boys about worn tapers.
The theory is wonderfull but practice dont always add up. Tapers, if adjusted right, will handle better and if kept adjusted SHOULD last longer but they are not the magic fix that everybody seems to think they are

[754]

On the chopper frame, I am thinking of grinding 2 notches  180 deg apart... to be able to punch out bearings .. its a solid tube.
 On the Honda neck, the way it's made.. may be bad idea.

 Weld trick works great if you can stay only on the race area.. not the place to practice welding.

[Medyo Bastos]

I spray pb blaster on them. They normally fall out on their own after a while of soaking..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Malovski]

Thanks everyone for your advise! Bummer that the races seems to be worn out... I went down earlier today and closely inspected the races. What can be seen in the picture is indeed scoring/pitting and easily felt with my fingernail. It's not very deep tho and the race feels completely smooth if I feel with my finger and not my fingernail. Does this still mean that they are totaled, should I test to regrease and reinstall everything and check how the steering feels or would that just be a waste of time? As the lower race is not seated completely I do think I will be able to drive them out with a punch if needing replacement (I don't have access to a welder). If the bearings need to be replaced, is there any certain make of tapered bearings that is recommended? I have for example noticed that All-balls come with dust shields, while others like the ones sold by Davidsilver does not. Thinking of buying new All-balls of ebay at the moment!

[bryanj]

An damage to the hardened race means they are junk

[scottly]

I bought an All Balls kit from a member of a different forum, so now I have some measurements. The height of the stock lower bearing assembly is .718". The tapered bearing is .563" tall, so we need .155" of spacer under the bearing.The lower washer #99-1054 is .115" thick, while #99-1011 is .183". The metal part of the seal is .025", so with the .115" washer would be .140" for a total of .703", which is close enough.
At the top end, I had a surprise: the top of the inner races I've used before fit neatly inside the nubs on the bottom of the adjuster nut, but the top of the All Balls part is much larger diameter, and the upper washer Must be used. The washer is .078", and the upper seal is another .025", so if too thick of a spacer is used on the bottom, there may not be enough threads on the stem for the adjustment nut to fully engage.

[Medyo Bastos]

That is correck keemosawbee


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[The Gurg]

Ok somewhere in this thread is my answer...but it’s 25 pages.

How many turns of thread do I need for the top steering stem nut? Am I remembering right that the rule of thumb for fasteners/hardware in general is 5 turns?

[caluser2000]

Ok somewhere in this thread is my answer...but it’s 25 pages.

How many turns of thread do I need for the top steering stem nut? Am I remembering right that the rule of thumb for fasteners/hardware in general is 5 turns?

Tighten untill the thread strips then back it off half a turn...

My old dear is still on ball bearings and the handling of the bike is very precise.                               

[Alan F.]

I used a Rising Sun kit from 4into1.com on my 750k8
All of my measurements and how I determined which spacer to use are in reply #42 http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,182592.0.html

[caluser2000]

check partsnmore.com also

My CB550F is still on it's original coils at 194,000kms. I replace things when they need to be replaced. Only changed one plug cap since 1986.

Why CB900 coil@ Because it sounds cool?. Those coils are fitted to a wide variety of Honda m/cs of the same period.

Long hot miles is the key not around town cafe hopping.

[grcamna2]

The All-balls bearing manufacturer in China seems to be the only option available;I remember a few decades ago there were some Made in USA,etc. that were better quality.
I was wondering if it's All-balls now as the 'only' option ??

[Alan F.]

I bought & installed Rising Sun brand from 4into1, their kit seemed better than AllBalls to me, I'm doubtful they're made in USA.

 https://4into1.com/rising-sun-tapered-steering-bearing-kit-honda-vtr250-cb-cl-sl350-cb-cj-cl360-cb-cm400-cb-cl-cm450-cb-cx-ft-gb-gl-vt500-cx650-cb550-650-750-vt700c-750c-gl1000/

[grcamna2]

I bought & installed Rising Sun brand from 4into1, their kit seemed better than AllBalls to me, I'm doubtful they're made in USA.

 https://4into1.com/rising-sun-tapered-steering-bearing-kit-honda-vtr250-cb-cl-sl350-cb-cj-cl360-cb-cm400-cb-cl-cm450-cb-cx-ft-gb-gl-vt500-cx650-cb550-650-750-vt700c-750c-gl1000/

I see.
I could only hope that the brand name "Rising Sun" is Made in Japan.. but I won't hold my breath on that one 

[Alan F.]

That's just what I thought, I bought these and spent the rest on other parts.

[scunny]

I googled rising sun and they are chinese.

[PeWe]

Made in China can be printed on good quality bearings too

You can order here. CB750 but fit other bikes too.
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K6-FOUR-1976/part_105462/


I bought my kit from Sweden, same as sold on Davidsilver and eBay Germany.
Name on package:  SSH750
Another seller has JMT435.
It seems to be shipping issues to USA on those sites
I plan to order soon.

[grcamna2]

Made in China can be printed on good quality bearings too

You can order here. CB750 but fit other bikes too.
https://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB750K6-FOUR-1976/part_105462/


I bought my kit from Sweden, same as sold on Davidsilver and eBay Germany.
Name on package:  SSH750
Another seller has JMT435.
It seems to be shipping issues to USA on those sites
I plan to order soon.

Per,was there ever a time in the past,when you were able to purchase those bearings Made in Sweden,from Swedish steel ?

[PeWe]

SKF is a Swedish brand making bearings.
Svenska Kullager Fabriken.
"Swedish Rollerbearing Factory" in english.
I have visited one of their old factories in Gothenburg for over 20 years ago. A little bit bigger bearings, mashining and material handling.

I guess that the bearings needed are standard sizes.

Buy a kit with bottom washer is easier.

[grcamna2]

SKF is a Swedish brand making bearings.
Svenska Kullager Fabriken.
"Swedish Rollerbearing Factory" in english.
I have visited one of their old factories in Gothenburg for over 20 years ago. A little bit bigger bearings, mashining and material handling.

I guess that the bearings needed are standard sizes.

Buy a kit with bottom washer is easier.

I remember 20-30 years ago seeing Real SKF brand bearings:Top Quality.

[PeWe]

SKF is a Swedish brand making bearings.
Svenska Kullager Fabriken.
"Swedish Rollerbearing Factory" in english.
I have visited one of their old factories in Gothenburg for over 20 years ago. A little bit bigger bearings, mashining and material handling.

I guess that the bearings needed are standard sizes.

Buy a kit with bottom washer is easier.

I remember 20-30 years ago seeing Real SKF brand bearings:Top Quality.

I'm sure they still are at the top.
I ordered SKF to my wheels.
Several sets for then and future.  2RSH type with extra good seals
Much lower price when order from UK than  here. This was before Brexit.