Topic: My 1977 CB550F project

[Deltarider]

but I found a better one than the one that came in the Honda tool kit

But does it have that rubber inside?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Thanks for that link!

From Godfferys site, this is the part i think you'll be most interested in.  The modified speedo drive plate.
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/Complete+Twin+Disc+kit/DSCN0280.JPG.html

I used Godffery's twin disc set up as well.  Easy peasy.

http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Parts+and+service/Complete+Twin+Disc+kit/DSCN0280.JPG.html

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

but I found a better one than the one that came in the Honda tool kit

But does it have that rubber inside?

Yes it does

[Deltarider]

Ha, approved! I want one.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I found a nice source for replica replacement handlebar controls at 4into1 $45 for the kill switch/starter control, better than $85 to $100

http://4into1.com/search.php?search_query=starter+switch&Search=

But I am still looking for just a replacement switch

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Cafe seat for our 1977 CB550F, it will probably be this Fall or Winter or maybe sooner before we make modifications on the bike to accept this seat or modify the stock seat that is the?

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Well the cafe seat is on it's way back it's a little too small for what we want to do so Shelby has stripped the stock seat down to the seat pan and we're thinking about how we want to go about modifying it.

We will remove the chrome hand rail, possibly shorten the seat cushion about 6 or 8 inches, incorporate the tail light into the back of the seat pan and mount the signal lights on the frame or each side of the rear part of the seat pan. These are just some thoughts

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

1977 CB550F Rear Frame & Seat Mod finally started
Rear lights and fender removed.
Frame cut and seat loop temporarily in place to check fit.
Next we need to do some grinding and welding to permanently attach the seat loop and brackets for the lights, tag & seat.
Then we need to make the seat and rewire all the lights.

Then we need a set of Keihin CR racing carbs ($1200) and a complete performance exhaust system ($500) Only if I win the Lottery you gotta dream, it doesn't cost anything to dream.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Oh yea, we replaced the uni foam filters with screened velocity stacks, bike was running a little lean so we replaced the #42 pilots with #45 and replaced the #105 mains with #110 mains. Now the bike is running a little rich, what we need are some 107.5 push in mains, but they don't seem to exist.

Does anyone know where I can find some 107.5 push in main jets for these carbs?

[calj737]

Usually 105s with a needle clip and screw adjustment works best. You say, running rich now. But at what throttle position is it rich? You can not tune by plug chop across the spectrum of throttle range. You must do each section (idle, WOT, and mid) by slow jet, main jet, then needle and screw adjustments.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

With the Uni foam filters bike was running good at WOT
Air screw at 3 turns out
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

With the Screened velocity stacks bike was running a little lean at WOT 5th gear not pulling very strong above 6,500 RPM
Air screw at 3 turns out
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

With the Screened velocity stacks bike was running a little rich at WOT, 5th gear pulls stronger above 6,500 RPM
Air screw at 3 1/8 turns out
Pilot jets #45 - (idle is a little hard to set, may go back to #42 pilot jets)
Main jets #110
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

[calj737]

With the Uni foam filters bike was running good at WOT
Air screw at 3 turns out You are getting no benefit past 2-2.5 turns. Your jetting is wrong if you're out that far.
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

With the Screened velocity stacks bike was running a little lean at WOT 5th gear not pulling very strong above 6,500 RPM
Air screw at 3 turns out
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

With the Screened velocity stacks bike was running a little rich at WOT, 5th gear pulls stronger above 6,500 RPM
Air screw at 3 1/8 turns out
Pilot jets #45 - (idle is a little hard to set, may go back to #42 pilot jets)
Main jets #110
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

I read bits and pieces of your CB550 project, interesting.  I plan on welding some sheet metal on our seat hoop also.

You are right about the poor quality steel used on these bikes, I was amazed at how easily it was to cut through the frame with a hand powered hack saw.

I would still like to find some 107.5 press in main jets, odd that they made 107.5 screw in main jets for the later model carbs on the 1977 CB550K, but not for the earlier carbs with press in mains like our 1977 CB550F.

I am also working on a replacement starter switch to fit in the stock control unit, I hate to spend $50 to a $100 for a new throttle control, starter/kill switch unit when all that is needed is a $5 push button SPDT switch or a SPST momentary switch for the starter connected to a SPDT solenoid relay switch.

If you ever run across any 107.5 press in main jets let me know, Thanks ... Jesse

[calj737]

Thanks, but you need to re-jet (see my comment about +3 turns). And set your screws back into the stock baseline and try all your plug chops again. Use fresh, clean plugs.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Thanks, but you need to re-jet (see my comment about +3 turns). And set your screws back into the stock baseline and try all your plug chops again. Use fresh, clean plugs.

"You are getting no benefit past 2-2.5 turns. Your jetting is wrong if you're out that far."
I agree, I am going to put the #42 pilot jets back in and turn the air screws into 2.5 turns out, may even end up using the #40 pilots ... one step at a time

The motogadget mbox looks nice, but is to expensive for us we are on a shoe string buget.
I am planning to clean up the stock wiring, especially in the headlight bucket.
Some of the old brass connectors have actually fallen apart.

I greatly appreciate your talent and willingness to help others and envy all the really nice gear and tools you have access to

The BSA & Yamaha shop I worked for in Md used to be a full service car  truck dealership with lots of nice equipment when dealers made repairs using metal lathes, milling machines, etc. the worst part about setting up a new Yamaha (Japanese bikes in general) was connecting all those wires, ground wires everywhere.

I live in Wilmington, NC if you are ever out this way feel welcome to stop in for a beer and chat

Take Care ... Jesse

[calj737]

My comment was in your prior post in BOLD type:

With the Uni foam filters bike was running good at WOT
Air screw at 3 turns out You are getting no benefit past 2-2.5 turns. Your jetting is wrong if you're out that far.
Pilot jets #42 (idle good)
Main jets #105
Jet needle 3rd notch down from the top (clip 1 notch lower than stock)

Essentially all your tuning info was based upon screws being too far out. Hence my comment about going back to a baseline and re-run your chops.

Wilmington is just a skip down the road! Really decent weather is coming, so I may just have to take you up on that stop-in. 

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Sorry I didn't notice your reply at first, I was speed reading, I need to slow down, seems like when ever I go to fast #$%* happens, not good. I usually try to go slow and review things 2 or 3 times before proceeding, must have drank to much coffee

Thanks for your input ... Jesse

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Our new New Tail-Brake light for our seat hoop with nice bright tail &  brake lights

Hopefully it will be dependable, just in case I ordered a second one for a backup.

From Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5KCEZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

That matches up will to your hoop.

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Yea, it was designed to mount under a fender, but it is just about perfect for our hoop

[Smudgemo]

I am also working on a replacement starter switch to fit in the stock control unit, I hate to spend $50 to a $100 for a new throttle control, starter/kill switch unit when all that is needed is a $5 push button SPDT switch or a SPST momentary switch for the starter connected to a SPDT solenoid relay switch.

If you still have the individual pieces of the switch, you can get a 3D printed housing to rebuild it. $15 total, but you'll be done in under an hour.  http://shpws.me/NkB8

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Thanks, I'll check it out, but the PCB part of the switch crumbled

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

Potential location of license plate on our 1977 CB550F Super Sport - under the seat in front of the rear tire.

[calj737]

Does the plate contact the tire under full suspension load? I wonder if NCDOT will permit it to be partially obscured? If so, you've hit the jackpot for mounting 

[JMS28411 I'm no Spring Chicken]

It is not attached yet, but if placed there it will far enough in front of the rear tire so it will not touch the tire under full depression of the shocks, I may have to angle the bottom of the plate slightly forward to  be safe and provide a better view of the plate, I don't like side mounted plates for more than one reason.

As far as NCDOT goes I am not sure, but it's easier to read a horizontal plate than a vertical one and I have seen a lot of those around.

How do you like the mono shock installation