Topic: Café/brat CB500 K3 -77, can't hold my fingers from it

[AlBundy]

For those who have a pita to remove old gasket material I suggest to use aircraft paint removal. Worked really good for me and took me less than 20 minutes without any hard pressure with the scraper.



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[RAFster122s]

Where did you hear that using 2000 grit sandpaper was a good idea for rocker arms pads?  New one for me...
Any of them that have pits or showed uneven wear before sanding should be replaced.  I would not use them in my motor.  The hardened face is not very thick and when you have uneven wear it will cause the same to occur on the cam.  Are your rocker shafts showing any play when you pull up or down trying to get them to move in the cover?  If so, you are having eccentric wear in the cover, not uncommon for 74-76 covers. The 77-78 covers were pinned so they would not rotate.
That's my $0.05
David

[AlBundy]

Where did you hear that using 2000 grit sandpaper was a good idea for rocker arms pads?  New one for me...
Any of them that have pits or showed uneven wear before sanding should be replaced.  I would not use them in my motor.  The hardened face is not very thick and when you have uneven wear it will cause the same to occur on the cam.  Are your rocker shafts showing any play when you pull up or down trying to get them to move in the cover?  If so, you are having eccentric wear in the cover, not uncommon for 74-76 covers. The 77-78 covers were pinned so they would not rotate.
That's my $0.05
David

I just wanted to clean them a little bit for a good picture. So it was not a good idea? :S Did not press hard at all with with the paper.

The shafts have only horizontal play, no vertical.


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[calj737]

2,000 grit won't hurt them. It may help polish them up a bit. The pitting in a few of the faces is cause for concern. Examine the corresponding cam lobe to determine if theres issues on the cam as well.

[AlBundy]

2,000 grit won't hurt them. It may help polish them up a bit. The pitting in a few of the faces is cause for concern. Examine the corresponding cam lobe to determine if theres issues on the cam as well.

Will check the cam. Would u use theese rocker arms or would you change them?

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[AlBundy]

Have received my Hagons and can't wait to put em on the bike. Went with the black on black look, or black widow if you like it that way. Will be selling the Koni shocks, so if anyone is interested they can PM me. Better price for sohc4 members

This weekend I will be painting the motor, still waiting for the parts to arrive from the blaster guy though. Will go with Plasti Kote engine enamel spray can. Hopefully I will be able to get the motor together next weekend. It all depends if i get my parts in time from David Silver. More pics will come in the next days. Cheers!

[AlBundy]

A quick update. Have not painted the motor yet. The blaster guy is not finished with his job.. Starting to get frustrated since I want the bike bike to be completed to April/May when the season starts here in Sweden. Some new parts have arrived from David Silver and 4 into 1 though.

[AlBundy]

Things are happening the engine is painted and cured in the oven in 200 degres. Finally!!

Can't decide if I should polish the covers or paint them in gun metal grey color. Personally I think that polished looks better but it's very time consuming :/ Do you guys think it will look good with the covers in gun metal grey?

[AlBundy]

Somehow I managed to put in the cam chain guide blade the opposite way. Discovered it when I was about to put the cam on. Very rookie by me :/ almost started to cry when I realized my misstake. My question is, can I and should I re use the head gasket? I have only torqued down the head once and not re torqued it.

It was a very bad day yesterday. Made one more newbie misstake and broke the 6mm hex bolt  that holds the timing. Had to much torque on the wrench...Managed to drill it out though without any damage on the threads, happy for 5 minutes until I realized that the guide blade sat wrong.

[calj737]

You can re-use the head gasket without issue. In fact, releasing the head stud nuts, and stepping them back into their final torque is advantageous (as long as you don't shear any of them off...  ). Just raise the head enough to flip the blade, put it all back together again.

6mm bolts only need a maximum of 8# of torque. Thats a mild handshake's worth of tension. No need for a Ft/Lb wrench, just nip it up by hand.

[AlBundy]

You can re-use the head gasket without issue. In fact, releasing the head stud nuts, and stepping them back into their final torque is advantageous (as long as you don't shear any of them off...  ). Just raise the head enough to flip the blade, put it all back together again.

6mm bolts only need a maximum of 8# of torque. Thats a mild handshake's worth of tension. No need for a Ft/Lb wrench, just nip it up by hand.

Thanks Calj, you just saved me 70 bucks  . I ordered a new gasket since they (Lelles SWE) send it the same day if you order before 12am, but I managed to cancel the order just before they shipped it.

Might be a stupid question, but what do you mean with 8#?   

[calj737]

8 "pounds" (That's foot pounds for you foreigners  )

[AlBundy]

Sharing some pics of the build.

[AlBundy]

When I was dismantling the rear wheel hub I found that the flange was taped with electrical tape. Anyone who has an idea why this has been done??

[calj737]

When I was dismantling the rear wheel hub I found that the flange was taped with electrical tape. Anyone who has an idea why this has been done??

May well be the question of the century? Whats the red discoloration?

[AlBundy]

When I was dismantling the rear wheel hub I found that the flange was taped with electrical tape. Anyone who has an idea why this has been done??

May well be the question of the century? Whats the red discoloration?

It's red electrical tape. I have removed the tape and the flange looks like it should. That's why I'm consued why it's been done...

Edit: The other discoloration is rust flow from the spraying with brake clenaer or wd40. It's also brake dust.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

When I was dismantling the rear wheel hub I found that the flange was taped with electrical tape. Anyone who has an idea why this has been done??

May well be the question of the century? Whats the red discoloration?

It's red electrical tape. I have removed the tape and the flange looks like it should. That's why I'm consued why it's been done...

Edit: The other discoloration is rust flow from the spraying with brake clenaer or wd40. It's also brake dust.

Maybe the PO thought it would go easier on the dampers.

[AlBundy]

Have been working the whole weekend with the bike and it is getting together slowly. Some pics and info what I've done.

New bushings for the swingarm and the shocks. Cleaned bolts and greased. New oil seals and oil for the front fork. Have put on the shocks and  the fork. Next is to polish the various engine covers and lace the wheels. Not so excited about the polishing, I must say.

[AlBundy]

So I'm about to do the wiring on the bike. Will have 6 days off from work, to work on the bike and the wife will be out and travelling so I'm going hardcore these days with my build. Before I start I want to double check if I can relocate the fuse? Like shown in number 2 diagram. Number 1 diagram is the old one. Also the REG/REC, I am getting a little bit unsure about if it is wired correctly? Calj, confirmation? 

I have changed some of the colors of the wires since the place I ordered them from didn't had all the colors I wanted in stock..

Have also manufactured a plate holder for the m-unit, REG/REC, and starter solenoid. It is made from a 8mm polyethylene board. It will be located behind the left side cover. Not finished with it yet, will be drilling more holes along the way when wiring.

[b.linden]

What program are you using to make the wiring diagram?

[calj737]

The fuse in diagram 2 is pointless. Move it between m-unit and battery POS, or between Reg/Rec red wire and battery POS. The line of thinking behind that is if you are using a Lithium battery, they have sensitive rates of how much amperage they can tolerate during charging. If your R/R goes wonky, then it will blow the fuse and protect the battery from a drastic overcharge. If your battery is AGM, then go with option 1 (m-unit to POS)

By the way, you can delete the leg from AUX to Tail by using the menu option of "single brake wire" to operate both the tail and brake filaments from a single wire run. The BRAKE output willalways be on, but not at full intensity until the brake switch is activated (front or rear).

[AlBundy]

What program are you using to make the wiring diagram?

I am using TinyCad which a free software. To give the wires other colors thats not supported in TinyCad, I use Bluebeam Revu which I have on my laptop from work. The second one is not free but you can use it 30 days in trial mode.

[AlBundy]

The fuse in diagram 2 is pointless. Move it between m-unit and battery POS, or between Reg/Rec red wire and battery POS. The line of thinking behind that is if you are using a Lithium battery, they have sensitive rates of how much amperage they can tolerate during charging. If your R/R goes wonky, then it will blow the fuse and protect the battery from a drastic overcharge. If your battery is AGM, then go with option 1 (m-unit to POS)

By the way, you can delete the leg from AUX to Tail by using the menu option of "single brake wire" to operate both the tail and brake filaments from a single wire run. The BRAKE output willalways be on, but not at full intensity until the brake switch is activated (front or rear).

Thanx again . As always you have good inputs.

[b.linden]

How's the wiring work going Al?
 Since youre mounting the m-unit on polyetheylene, will you be grounding it with a separate wire to the frame? or directly to battery NEG?

[calj737]

Since youre mounting the m-unit on polyetheylene, will you be grounding it with a separate wire to the frame? or directly to battery NEG?

It wants both.