Topic: Café/brat CB500 K3 -77, can't hold my fingers from it

[AlBundy]

The fuse in diagram 2 is pointless. Move it between m-unit and battery POS, or between Reg/Rec red wire and battery POS. The line of thinking behind that is if you are using a Lithium battery, they have sensitive rates of how much amperage they can tolerate during charging. If your R/R goes wonky, then it will blow the fuse and protect the battery from a drastic overcharge. If your battery is AGM, then go with option 1 (m-unit to POS)

By the way, you can delete the leg from AUX to Tail by using the menu option of "single brake wire" to operate both the tail and brake filaments from a single wire run. The BRAKE output willalways be on, but not at full intensity until the brake switch is activated (front or rear).

Thanx again . As always you have good inputs.

[b.linden]

How's the wiring work going Al?
 Since youre mounting the m-unit on polyetheylene, will you be grounding it with a separate wire to the frame? or directly to battery NEG?

[AlBundy]

How's the wiring work going Al?
 Since youre mounting the m-unit on polyetheylene, will you be grounding it with a separate wire to the frame? or directly to battery NEG?

Almost finished with the wiring, just waiting for the new starter relay to arrive so I can connect it. I have groundet it to the frame with two wires from the backside of the m unit. You finished with your yet?

[b.linden]

Great! post some pictures 
 Getting there, need a couple more connectors and such to be able to finish.
What kind of wire-harness "wrapping" are you using? I was going with some braided cable sleeves (flätad kabelstrumpa from biltema) but think its a bit to thin, I want something more robust.

[AlBundy]

Will post some pictures as soon as I get the relay in place. I am using the braided cable sleeve you mention. Double layers and a shrink cable on the main harness. On the  cables for lamps, blinkers etc I only have one layer.

[AlBundy]

Since youre mounting the m-unit on polyetheylene, will you be grounding it with a separate wire to the frame? or directly to battery NEG?

It wants both.

Do you mean that I have to ground the m unit to the frame and to the bat NEG, or two groundings from the m-unit to frame or bat NEG?

[AlBundy]

Long time no hear! Have been working on the bike a lot this month and thought a could post some pictures. The wiring is 99% done. Just need to fasten the harness in the front. Will do it when all throttle cable etc are in place. Have also been working with the wheels and brakes. The wheels are laced and trued, just need to grind some of the spokes on the front wheel. After that I will mount the tires and tubes. Also the bearings have been replaced. The calipers has also been rebuilt with new seals, cleaning and paint. Pistons were in great shape Ordered a custom spacer and a bushing for eliminating the speedo drive. The rotors has been drilled and thinned a little bit.

My intention is to be able to be finished with the bike before 18 June. It's the day it gets 40 years old

Great source for the dual disc conversion: http://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/dual-disc-conversion/
Thank you saltcitycafe on how to lace your wheels: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=135846.0
     

[AlBundy]

The bike is coming together and while I was assembling my rear wheel I realized that I have lost my sprocket plate for the rear sprocket. Does anyone have one for sale? Please feel free to PM me then.

The handlebar is a Renthal Ultra Low 758 with micro switches installed. The wiring is inside of the handlebar. The start/stop button is the red one mom switch on the triple tree. Still waiting for the replacement levers for the clutch and the brake. The ones that came with the MC and clutch has been bent.

Rear brake shoes was changed by the PO so I sticked with them.

[AlBundy]

I need some help with the front headlight position. I can't really decide if I should lower it so the line of the headlight continues the tank line or just leave it as it is in  the picture. I don't just want it to look weird or disproportionately. What do you think?

[AlBundy]

Invert the headlight ears, then reinstall it. That way the ears drop the headlight into a better line aesthetically. Then you can toy with the height of it to suit your riding position for best visibilityt night.

Tried that but made no difference. The angle of the ears is the same when inverting. I think I will just drop it as much as I can without interfering the visibility.. Thank you.

[AlBundy]

Have suffered a set back with the brakes. When I tested them before the first ride, the line that goes in to the brake master cylinder broke. Don't know if it was due low quality or something done wrong by me, but either way I will be dissing the system with the join splitter. Will run two separate lines from the MC, with lines from Fischer Stahlflex from Germany instead. The one that broke was from 4 into 1 (set with 3 lines). I don't wanna hang them or anything, it may be my own fault that they broke. They handled professionally  when I told them about it, full refund.

[AlBundy]

I'm about to adjust the float levels in the carbs and I just wanna double check if I'm doing it right. The float needs to be adjusted so the level in the tube rises approximately 1-2mm to accomplish the correct float height (see picture). Am I right here?

[AlBundy]

Fuel level in tube should be 3-4mm below the seam.

Ok. Thx!

[AlBundy]

The carbs are on the bike now and I didn't thought it would be so hard to set the correct float height. Took me some attempts to get it right. The float height is set at 14.5mm and verified with the clear tube method (3mm below notch).
Carbs: PD46B
Pilot: 42
Main: 105
Needle: stock position
IMS screw: 1,5 turns out
Air supply: Pods
Riding altitude: 0-200ft
Runs good: Not tested yet :/ (IMS and the main pilot might be changed to 2 turns out and 100)

Can't decide if I should have the two black lines on the tank or not. What do you think? I know it's a taste thing but it would be fun to hear your opinions.

Edit: Forgot to mention that the calipers are of the bike now due to damage on the paint from the brake fluid. Will polish them instead.

[AlBundy]

Finally the bike is "finished". Runs much better than I thought it would do and what a difference on the brakes! Some minor adjusting on carbs is necessary though.  Have already done the "first" break in. Rode it approx 25km and then I changed the oil and the filter. Will run it 500km  then change oil and filter again. I will need to vacuum sync the carbs and check the plugs. Should I sync it before the "second" break in or do it after? From what I can find on the web, some are saying that I should run the break in first the sync but I'm a little bit unsure about it. The carbs has been bench synced but that is not enough.

20170826_212947 by Elmer Zuzo, on Flickr
20170826_212729 by Elmer Zuzo, on Flickr
20170826_212503 by Elmer Zuzo, on Flickr
20170826_212332 by Elmer Zuzo, on Flickr
20170826_212213 by Elmer Zuzo, on Flickr

[AlBundy]

Synch them now. Best to break your motor in with proper running carbs. Keep an eye on your pipes too. If they start bluing heavily, you need to jet up your carbs from being so lean.

Thanks for the answer! Will follow your advise.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Nice-looking bike, AlB.

[AlBundy]

Nice-looking bike, AlB.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

[AlBundy]

I have bought a complete 500 -77 (same as mine) running engine (18 600 miles) and carbs to have as spare parts if it is needed, or use it in a future build. The engine is not in pieces and I want to store it but I don't really now the best way to do it. Don't want any corrosion in the engine.  Should I take apart everything and store it in pieces or keep it as it is? Any tips?

[scunny]

nice looking bike, but, what's that loopy cable on the left side ?

[AlBundy]

nice looking bike, but, what's that loopy cable on the left side ?

Thanks! It's the fuel line. It was not cut to the correct length when the photos were taken.

[AlBundy]

Just out of curiosity I wonder what kind of timing plate and breakers I have? It's my old plate and I have changed it to an oem TEC because I thought this one didn't had condensers, but the blueish thing might be the condensers?

Also, I ended up with 115 in main jet. Good color on plugs and it pulls like a beast now. Did easy 140 km/h then I didn't dare to push it anymore (low ride experience).

[seanbarney41]

Just out of curiosity I wonder what kind of timing plate and breakers I have? It's my old plate and I have changed it to an oem TEC because I thought this one didn't had condensers, but the blueish thing might be the condensers?

Also, I ended up with 115 in main jet. Good color on plugs and it pulls like a beast now. Did easy 140 km/h then I didn't dare to push it anymore (low ride experience).

that point set is really interesting.  I have never seen that or anything like it.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Congrats, Al. Your bike has been nominated and seconded for BOTM October 2017.  Please go to the nomination thread and post that you "Accept" the nomination.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,168076.0.html

[AlBundy]

Can't keep the hands of my bike.. I changed my timing plate to a tec and installed new daiichi points. Since I had them laying and the points that were on the tec plate were bad I thought, why not try them. My conclusion like many others on this forum is that they belong in the trash can. Instead of putting back the old plate I would rather buy a electronic ignition.

So which is the better one, dynatek or pamco? My coils are fine, will not change them.