Author Topic: Cb550k0 rebuild (Read 25266 times)

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #100 on:** September 13, 2016, 06:26:30 AM »

Wait is the search still down?

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #101 on:** September 13, 2016, 06:43:12 AM »

I don't use the search on this site. I just type my query into google and follow it with "sohc4"

Here's his thread if you're interested: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,158001.0.html

And yes, the rotor has to come off to replace the seal.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #102 on:** September 13, 2016, 08:32:28 AM »

Bad ass Dave thank you man.

Gene · « **Reply #103 on:** September 13, 2016, 10:52:39 AM »

Quote from: sweatshirtolympics on September 12, 2016, 07:56:27 PM

Right so I used these little wood things from my gfs crafting bucket of blocks and wood strips and stuff.

For the record - those are called shim-shingles. They have myriad uses.

Nice work.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #104 on:** September 14, 2016, 10:05:22 AM »

Gotcha Gene thank you for the name drop. I'm going to have to hold onto the shim-shingles. Also thank you I felt quite clever. It was a huge morale boost. Sometimes these bikes have a way of beating you up.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #105 on:** September 16, 2016, 10:35:17 PM »

What are you guys using for a stud removal tool? The back to back bolts trick isnt cutting it.

I found a couple doing a quick search but I'm not sure if theyll do the trick. Let me know what you think. Thanks guys.

http://www.sears.com/lisle-71200-stud-remover/p-SPM2406082514?sid=IDx20110310x00001i&gclid=CO3esv3Wlc8CFUUcaQod8goMGg&gclsrc=aw.ds

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3FP16D9445&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Tools+-+Power+%26+Pneumatic+Accessories-_-9SIA3FP16D9445&gclid=COSJ5YXXlc8CFYYBaQodD0AGhg&gclsrc=aw.ds

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #106 on:** September 18, 2016, 07:12:46 AM »

Right on Calj. So, the stud removal tool doesn't need to thread on huh? Cut it off shorter you say... Huh. Badass. Lol I gotta get ahold of one.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #107 on:** September 19, 2016, 08:11:29 PM »

What's up crew ok so an update yes?

So the internal shifter cylinder that has the big main shift fork on is has me completely confused on how it wants to be removed. The rest is stripped out of the upper case besides the studs and for those I snagged a 8mm extracter, (smallest they had in shop, which will still bite the threads but not the neck of the studs.) and a hand held propane thingy. We'll see what's what. Stay tuned.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #108 on:** September 19, 2016, 09:12:29 PM »

Right, so listen close my wee noobs out there. Unbeknownst to me, that little clip on the top of the main shift fork actually does have a purpose. Yes, it holds a small pin that holds that shift fork on that what, shift drum? Yes, so just hang the rear of your motor off of the bench and gravity does the rest, although talking to it with a small screw driver helps the process along. Just get the pin to lower enough to where the fork is free from the drum, then remove. Yes.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #109 on:** September 20, 2016, 04:24:50 AM »

Or pull the clip and extract the dowel with a magnet

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #110 on:** September 20, 2016, 12:04:39 PM »

Lol yes Dave absolutely, I should have noted my method is for the cats that's don't have magnets lolol I even resorted to trying a fridge magnet lmao. But yeah hey so what kind of stud extractor do you have/use cause I'm using a socket method and it's worked on all but two. So I'm looking for other options.

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #111 on:** September 20, 2016, 12:25:30 PM »

I don't own a stud extractor nor have I ever extracted studs other than exhaust/intake studs. On those I double nutted them.

I had a sheared off head stud on my 650 motor that was sticking up about 1" from the case surface. I believe the machinist welded on a nut to get it off. The heat from welding really breaks corrosion bonds.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #112 on:** September 21, 2016, 06:24:41 AM »

That's what I was going to try today, its either weld on a nut to the last two or cut the top threads off and use a 6mm socket extractor and hopefully that will bite on to the next of the stud. But i think I'm going to weld... Stay tuned

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #113 on:** September 21, 2016, 06:52:37 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 17, 2016, 02:59:41 AM

I cut them off shorter to allow that tool to grab nearer the base eliminating the twist in the stud.

This. Even with welding a nut, cutting the studs shorter is a good thing to do. You don't want to twist the stud and have it break off at or below the case level.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #114 on:** September 21, 2016, 12:46:24 PM »

Yeah I just welded and the neck was starting to twist so I stopped. I'm order ANOTHER extractor tonight I guess. But I'm really just entertaining the idea of a new upper case so I can finally send this #$%* off to blasting and coating. So fed up right now. SO IF ANY OF YOU CATS HAVE AN UPPER CASE PLEASE LET ME KNOW IM BUYING IT.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #115 on:** September 21, 2016, 12:54:52 PM »

Sent!

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #116 on:** September 21, 2016, 02:48:54 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 21, 2016, 12:48:53 PM

Case halves are matched. You need the whole set. I've got a set of cases already powder coated if you need them? Black wrinkle texture. And the studs are out already too

Darren Jakal · « **Reply #117 on:** September 21, 2016, 03:48:59 PM »

Maybe something in this thread that can help.

The video at the end is worth a watch, just for the hell of it.

Good luck,

Darren

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,73735.0.html

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #118 on:** September 21, 2016, 04:04:34 PM »

Never heard of that method, I wonder if it's as effective as it states. Either way, that video was great, haha.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #119 on:** September 21, 2016, 05:45:10 PM »

I'm reaaalllllllyyyyyy kicking my self in the ass right now for not paying attention in chemistry.... $:-\$

But calj are you saying journal clearances wont match thus not giving proper operation?

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #120 on:** September 21, 2016, 06:02:52 PM »

Quote from: sweatshirtolympics on September 21, 2016, 12:46:24 PM

Yeah I just welded and the neck was starting to twist so I stopped.

Can you post a picture of the stud? How tall is it? Cal mentioned to cut it down shorter so it would be less likely to twist. Did you do that? Also, the taller it is, the less heat from welding is going to make it's way into the threads to break the corrosion bond.

I'd confirm with others, but if it were me, I'd cut it down to about 2" and weld a nut on, and before it cools smack it with a hammer and go at it with a socket wrench.

sweatshirtolympics · « **Reply #121 on:** September 21, 2016, 06:26:10 PM »

Nah I didn't Dave, the extractor I have is a socket type and only bites to threading. BUUUTT you make a valid point. The deed shall be done. lol which is funny cause now every one of you has told me to do this and I keep putting it off. I'll stfu and just do it. Stay tuned..

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #122 on:** September 22, 2016, 12:16:50 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 21, 2016, 03:45:42 PM

Crank journals...

is there a work around for this?

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #123 on:** September 22, 2016, 04:20:26 AM »

Quote from: BomberMann650 on September 22, 2016, 12:16:50 AM

Quote from: calj737 on September 21, 2016, 03:45:42 PM
Crank journals...

is there a work around for this?

Until Cal replies with actual facts...
You might be able to get it line bored again but you'd have to go with oversized bearings and I don't know how available those are or if it's even possible. The crank seals would probably have to be slightly oversize as well, less of an issue.

The machining would be expensive so it might be best to get a whole matched pair or a donor engine to cannibalize.

BomberMann650 · « **Reply #124 on:** September 22, 2016, 01:42:13 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on September 22, 2016, 05:32:17 AM

Quote from: BomberMann650 on September 22, 2016, 12:16:50 AM
is there a work around for this?
Yes, matched halves.

i have two complete engines, but 3 good halves.

is the crank itself interchangeable or is it beholden to the case too?

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Author Topic: Cb550k0 rebuild (Read 25266 times)