Topic: Metal rescue aftermath

[emlupi]

Soaked my tank with metal rescue. Emptied it out and took a look inside, looked like good, clean metal. Rinsed it out with water and circulated warm air to dry it out. Took a look in there and now it has flash rusted over some of the surface.

What is the remedy for this or do I not need to make myself crazy over it? The interior metal looks sound, it's just covered with a surface rust now. Please advise.

[markreimer]

Are you treating the tank with a sealer after? You'll need to or it will just rust again. I used white vinegar to get ride of my flash rust. Then rinsed it with gas, dried it with compressed air and used a Caswell tank sealer. It's been a couple years now and it's still perfect.


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[innovativems]

I use acetone to clear out the tank before it dries to keep it from flashing.


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[ekpent]

 Neutralizing the soak with a heavy dose of baking soda concentrate which I always do may help but the big secret is to dry it out as quickly as you can and get gas back into it right away as soon as it is dry. A little dash of two stroke oil in the first batch of gas will give it a little initial metal treat.

[pjlogue]

Last rinse use distilled water.  The minerals in tap water cause conductivity witch causes electrolysis.  It's even worse if you have a water softener!  Get a gallon of distilled water, rinse with tap a few times quickly and then 3 rinses immediately with distilled water.  It will greatly slow the rust.

-P.

[flybox1]

Kleen Strip Prep-n-etch leaves a grey phosphorous layer instead of bare metal minimizing flash rust.

[BomberMann650]

Last rinse use distilled water.  The minerals in tap water cause conductivity witch causes electrolysis.  It's even worse if you have a water softener!  Get a gallon of distilled water, rinse with tap a few times quickly and then 3 rinses immediately.
-P.

This. 

I've been using carb cleaner to rinse de rusted parts lately.  Seems to work too.

[emlupi]

Is it imperative to get this out? It seems as though unless I seal it, the rust will keep returning.

[BomberMann650]

more like "neutralize it"

[flybox1]

Kleen Strip Prep-n-etch leaves a grey phosphorous layer instead of bare metal minimizing flash rust.

If not this^^
you'll have to water rinse, and then immediately rinse with acetone, shop-vac dry, and coat with oil/fill with gas.
have these items lined up for the process....


This is a shop-vac (nearly) dried 550 tank after prepnetch

[ChopSticks]

After you do the distilled / baking soda rinse to level out the PH couldn't you just spray WD / GIBBS to stop it from flash rusting again?

[NobleHops]

After you do the distilled / baking soda rinse to level out the PH couldn't you just spray WD / GIBBS to stop it from flash rusting again?

You can but WD is wolfsbane to the guy that will be painting it.

The prep and etch is a much better idea, as is the acetone rinse. I use a reversed shop vac immediately after the acetone while I flip and rotate the tank so the water runs out of the crevices and is more easily dried on the flat surfaces. The Arizona sun is a big help too, use whatever you've got :-).

The acquired knowledge (when this very thing happened to me) is to go straight to the next step, passivating, coating etc. This makes the hateful tank cleaning process an all day affair after the main derusting soak, but if you do go straight through you will bypass the flash rust and get a great result.

If you are not coating the prep andn etch is a perfectly good solution - it passivates the surface as described. I believe the active ingredient in this process is phosphoric acid, which is useful for many restoration projects. Most aluminum etch products are primarily phosphoric acid, it is easy to find at pro paint stores.

[Bankerdanny]

de-rust again and then dry with compressed air. Then you need to coat with something. Marvel Mystery Oil works well for this. It will coat the metal to prevent rust and won't hurt your fuel system when you do finally put the tank on and fill it up.

Personally I de-rusted a scooter tank over the weekend and after drying poured in a small amount of 10-30 I had on the shelf. It coats the metal and will thin out when I add fuel. There will likely be a little smoke on start-up, but it should only last for the initial tank.

[Bodi]

The tank was bare metal from Honda, when used they really don't rust. Unless water pools in the bottom, then you get rust there. That's why so many old tanks rust through at the very bottom.

[pjlogue]

Kleen Strip Prep-n-etch leaves a grey phosphorous layer instead of bare metal minimizing flash rust.

If not this^^
you'll have to water rinse, and then immediately rinse with acetone, shop-vac dry, and coat with oil/fill with gas.
have these items lined up for the process....


This is a shop-vac (nearly) dried 550 tank after prepnetch

I would caution against shop vac. after Acetone rinse!  Acetone has a very low vapor pressure and is very flammable.  Would you shop vac gas from a tank?

-P

[NobleHops]

The kool kids use a REVERSED shop vac, and I will wager that is what was meant in Flybox' post.

[RAFster122s]

Aw Heck! let's skip that messy shop vac and just dry it out the fast way... drop a lighted match into the acetone rinsed tank
It will pop and give you that PUMPED UP look of a useless tank... 
Advise you to not stand over that opening looking into it when bringing the match to the opening...

Done at night you have much more colorful flashes and jets of fire coming from all orifices

Good luck sorting out your tank...

Proceed with caution or throw caution to the wind.


 

[Lostboy Steve]

Aw Heck! let's skip that messy shop vac and just dry it out the fast way... drop a lighted match into the acetone rinsed tank
It will pop and give you that PUMPED UP look of a useless tank... 
Advise you to not stand over that opening looking into it when bringing the match to the opening...

Done at night you have much more colorful flashes and jets of fire coming from all orifices

Good luck sorting out your tank...

Proceed with caution or throw caution to the wind.

Hahahahahahaha! Epic.


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[ekpent]

The kool kids use a REVERSED shop vac, and I will wager that is what was meant in Flybox' post.

  Yep I am one of the "kool kids" also. The side of the vac/blower says it blows at 165 mph       Does dry it out very quickly so I can get the gas back in right away.

[flybox1]

The kool kids use a REVERSED shop vac, and I will wager that is what was meant in Flybox' post.

  Yep I am one of the "kool kids" also. The side of the vac/blower says it blows at 165 mph       Does dry it out very quickly so I can get the gas back in right away.

YEAH.  this ^ 

[Jarrett_Honda]

I used metal rescue. Love it. Neber used anything right after. Got no flash rust.

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[drumstyx]

I had similar issues, though I didn't even try to dry it after the metal rescue.

Their videos on de-rusting tanks recommends another product -- dry coat. I figured at $14, when I was spending $150 on metal rescue, was worthwhile.

It's water based, so you don't have to dry the tank first, you just drain of metal rescue, rinse, and pour/spray in a bit of dry coat. I know I sound like a shill, but it seriously did wonders. It's been sitting for months, getting painted etc, and it's still perfectly rust free. After my horrible experiences with muriatic acid, it was so nice.

That said, I used muriatic acid first to get rid of heavier rust, so I didn't contaminate the metal rescue too much. Followed by a rinse of course.

[emlupi]

Dr

TIt's water based, so you don't have to dry the tank first, you just drain of metal rescue, rinse, and pour/spray in a bit of dry coat.

I was thinking about using the Dry Coat as well. I assume you rinsed the tank with water before adding the Dry Coat?

[drumstyx]

Dr

TIt's water based, so you don't have to dry the tank first, you just drain of metal rescue, rinse, and pour/spray in a bit of dry coat.

I was thinking about using the Dry Coat as well. I assume you rinsed the tank with water before adding the Dry Coat?

IIRC, yes. It's been a while (not really, a few months, I have terrible memory...) but I think I just did a quick rinse to get any sediment out. The metal rescue itself won't hurt anything mixing with the dry coat, I just wanted to get rid of any junk in there.

Funny thing is, I drained the dry coat, and the little bit that remained stuck around for weeks -- still no rust! I could hardly believe the stuff was water based! Apparently *slightly* more toxic than the metal rescue, but that wasn't really a concern, considering I was willing to use muriatic acid if it weren't for the flash rust...

[BallAquatics]

+1  REVERSED shop vac.....

Dennis