Topic: Specific question: Mobil 1 and clutch

[HondaMan]

Are any of you using the Mobil 1 oil?
What is the effect on the clutch?
Reason I ask, Torco oil would shorten the fiber life considerably ("back then"), and I have not used any other synthetics (but Valvoline) in these high-revving engines. The Valvoline synthetic has too much detergent, causing foaming and loss of oil pressure at sustained high RPM, so haven't tried any others since then.

Considering the Castrol synthetic, if I can get a readout of their detergent levels. To my knowledge, they don't make a "motorcycle oil" in their synthetic line.

[MRieck]

Are any of you using the Mobil 1 oil?
What is the effect on the clutch?
Reason I ask, Torco oil would shorten the fiber life considerably ("back then"), and I have not used any other synthetics (but Valvoline) in these high-revving engines. The Valvoline synthetic has too much detergent, causing foaming and loss of oil pressure at sustained high RPM, so haven't tried any others since then.

Considering the Castrol synthetic, if I can get a readout of their detergent levels. To my knowledge, they don't make a "motorcycle oil" in their synthetic line.

I'm sure they do offer a synthetic bike oil now. There are a lot out there for sure.

[wiretender]

Two M1 oils are available at my local Autozone. One is 20-50 tagged for V Twins (air cooled noted) and the other is 10-40 tagged for racing and performance applications. Each states clearly the oil is proven for wet clutch bikes.

I have used both oils in three of my bikes using 20-50 during summer and the other for winter. I have found to oil to be superior to every other oil I've tried and I've just about tried them all. Fact is, I will use nothing but the M1 bike oils now.

[Sam Green Racing]

We use Shell synthetic mcs in the CR with no problems upto now....there again, it is early days yet.

Sam.

[Rock Store]

Honda Man,I use synthetics in the Ducatis,but were running dry clutches,others vwith wet clutches have no problems,& the ones that do complain about clutch slippage usually have other clutch issues.Some do claim hoever that synthetic oils with to Moly bendum,or something like that can & will cause the fibers & plates to slip,I havent seen it.Another debate was the use of Dyno oil & or synt. on a fresh rebuild & or new,It was found & on some Ducati builds that after useing Synthetic oil with fresh pistons & rings ,the oil stuck to the liners so well it did not allow the scrapper to fully clear it off ,causing glazing of the wall & rings not setting properly ,...so dyno oil first after 600 miles use all the Synthetic you want.Funny new Ducatis come with Shell synthetic,but ring ,piston & liner compsition was changed....Heres a web link with some facts http://www.motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
later...RS

[Bob Wessner]

Are any of you using the Mobil 1 oil?

Yes, all this season, about 2,000 miles. No problems, it's SJ rated.

Well, he asked.

[BobbyR]

Here we go with "O" word. It will be a long winter.

[eldar]

gotta have something to carry us through the cold months!

[754]

 D'ya want the 5.00 argument???

 













or the 20.00 Argument???

 Huh..Huh?                   

[Bob Wessner]

D'ya want the 5.00 argument???

 













or the 20.00 Argument???

 Huh..Huh?                   

Either, both. I figure only 3.5 months to go.

[Tower]

Don't know about you folks, but I get the distinct impression that the argument is decidedly in favour of synthetic, not only as a viable alternative, but indeed a better one.

My hat is in the synthetic ring.  Changed to this stuff when I replaced my clutch plates.
1. Soak corks in synthetic 2 days
2. Drain oil and replace filter
3. Pour in the synthetic

500 smoother-shifting miles later, I did a second oil change and new filter. ..and WOW!  the oil was still fresh looking.

Here's the commercial( read from label on back of jug)....

"

High Performance Engine & Transmission Lubricant

AMSOIL Advanced Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is engineered for maximum performance in 4-stroke engines and motorcycle transmissions, both two-and four-stroke.  It is wet clutch compatible and features better heat resistance and wear protection than other motorcycle oils.  AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is Shear Stable. It stops viscosity breakdown (loss), protects gears and meets SAE 80W/90, API GL-1 gear oil requirements. 
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, BMW, Husqvarna, KTM, and other motorcycles where 10W-40 or 80W/90, API GL-1 is used in engines or transmissions.  Not recommended for shaft drive hypoid gears.

API Service SG, SL/CF

• JASO MA/MA2

CAUTION: Continuous contact with used oil has caused skin cancer in lab testing.

• No friction modifiers for outstanding wet clutch performance
• Extra anti-wear additives for long equipment life
• Promotes cooler operation
• Prevents foam in high RPM engines
• Protects against rust and corrosion during storage

"

[HondaMan]

Don't know about you folks, but I get the distinct impression that the argument is decidedly in favour of synthetic, not only as a viable alternative, but indeed a better one.

My hat is in the synthetic ring.  Changed to this stuff when I replaced my clutch plates.
1. Soak corks in synthetic 2 days
2. Drain oil and replace filter
3. Pour in the synthetic

500 smoother-shifting miles later, I did a second oil change and new filter. ..and WOW!  the oil was still fresh looking.

I've seen and heard a lot about the Amsoil, but never can find it. Where do you get it, and do they have a 10w50 or 20w50 racing (i.e., low detergent) type?

[HondaMan]

Are any of you using the Mobil 1 oil?

Yes, all this season, about 2,000 miles. No problems, it's SJ rated.

Well, he asked.

Bob,
which weight have you been using? I think you're running a K0, right?

[333]

It's not a question of yes or no on synthetics, it's a question of which one.  I hate to repeat myself, but if it says Honda on the bottle, and Honda says it's okay to use it (specifically HP4M), why not?  I've been using it for years with no clutch issues whatsoever, and transmissions that shift like butter.  We like their bikes, why not their oils?  I know they don't make the oil, but it is made for them, to their specs.  We all have read threads about bad aftermarket parts (ex: points mounting plate thinner than stock that warps) and manuals with wrong info, leading us (at least me) to believe that stock is trick.

It's going to be a long winter!

[Swede]

I get Amsoil at Gi Joe's here in Oregon.  I have also ordered stuff from their website.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx

[TwoTired]

I've seen and heard a lot about the Amsoil, but never can find it. Where do you get it, and do they have a 10w50 or 20w50 racing (i.e., low detergent) type?

Go the their home page and click "find dealer near you", near the center of the page.
Put in your zip code.

http://www.amsoil.com/Index.aspx

Cheers,

[Terry in Australia]

Well, I do like the thought that full synthetics are "greener" than fossil oils and the ingredients can be grown locally so we're not at the mercy of Arab oil sheiks passing on our oil dollars to Western hating terrorists, so I might give it a shot. How long do I have to run my new 836 engine in on mineral oil before I can change over? 

 

[Bob Wessner]

Are any of you using the Mobil 1 oil?

Yes, all this season, about 2,000 miles. No problems, it's SJ rated.

Well, he asked.

Bob,
which weight have you been using? I think you're running a K0, right?

Yes, on the K0. Actually, I'm using 5w40. The thought process went something like this. High temps rarely a problem here. On average we have only 10-12 days per year where the high temps are 90F or higher. More likely, low temps at start-up. Early or late in the season the start temps could be in the forties to around 50F, depending on how much clothes you're willing to put on. Even during or warmest months, there are still days with morning temps (favorite time to ride) around 50F, perhaps high 40's. I liked the thought, or idea, that using 5w would get something pumping around faster. I have noticed no difference in pressure readings on the guage and the clutch has no slippage, yet seems to have a finer feel.

[Steve F]

Here's the commercial( read from label on back of jug)....

"

High Performance Engine & Transmission Lubricant

AMSOIL Advanced Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is engineered for maximum performance in 4-stroke engines and motorcycle transmissions, both two-and four-stroke.  It is wet clutch compatible and features better heat resistance and wear protection than other motorcycle oils.  AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is Shear Stable. It stops viscosity breakdown (loss), protects gears and meets SAE 80W/90, API GL-1 gear oil requirements. 
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, BMW, Husqvarna, KTM, and other motorcycles where 10W-40 or 80W/90, API GL-1 is used in engines or transmissions.  Not recommended for shaft drive hypoid gears.

API Service SG, SL/CF

• JASO MA/MA2

CAUTION: Continuous contact with used oil has caused skin cancer in lab testing.

• No friction modifiers for outstanding wet clutch performance
• Extra anti-wear additives for long equipment life
• Promotes cooler operation
• Prevents foam in high RPM engines
• Protects against rust and corrosion during storage

"

Ya know, this is THE first time I had ever seen any synthetic oil manufacturer that actually comes right out and says it's for wet clutch use.  I've used synthetic blends before, but never straight-up synthetic because of the clutch slippage worry.   Lately, I've been using the Valvoline 20w50 (dino oil) for motorcycles, and it's been great.  Maybe it's time for a "change".

[Einyodeler]

Mobil 1 Turbodiesel 5-40 full synthetic oil = no clutch slippage problems

[Bob Wessner]

Mobil 1 Turbodiesel 5-40 full synthetic oil = no clutch slippage problems

That's the one.

[Johnie]

OK, I hate to open up the oil thingy here, but since it is already going strong...I use the synthetic in my 2000 Wing and never even though I could use it in my stock CB750KO.  Since I got the bike this past July with 17,000 miles I have been using Pennzoil 10W40.  No problems with the clutch or shifting through the gears, but I do have to be moving or stopped to get it into neutral.  I wonder if I should give Bob's 5W40 Amsoil a try?  Can I just dump the Pennzoil and install the synthetic or do I have to make some type of special switch-over.  Is it worth the switch and will it do something good for the bike?

[wiretender]

Mobil 1 Turbodiesel 5-40 full synthetic oil = no clutch slippage problems

That's the one.

Why, when M1 has oils specifically for motorcycles?

 http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx

[Bob Wessner]

Haven't found any around where I live.

[dusterdude]

mobil one does have a motorcycle oil.