Topic: Phaedrus: CB750 RestoMod - Update: 09/23/21 w/ new video

[MCRider]

Its all looking good Ron!!!You are doing alot of things that I would like to do in the future.Especially putting Gordon's kit in and addressing rear end(wider tire,rear footpeg/exhaust brackets). Glad you got your camera going and it should be a motivater for me to also start popping some pics.

Thank you. Speaking of exhaust bracket, here's the tab for my muffler hanger:

[mrbreeze]

That area right there............I have given alot of consideration. When you ditch the 4 pipe setup,you have to find a way to mount your pipe,footpegs(if running them),and centerstand stop(if running it). I have an idea for mine that won't involve welding to the stock frame and will still look good.It will take some fabbing and I don't have the means to build it at this time but will take my plans to someone who can.

[Terry in Australia]

That looks great Ron, well done mate! I can't remember if you've already done this but be aware, to run a fat rear tire you also need to modify your centre stand.

I run a 16 inch, 150/90 rear tire on my K1, and when I installed it I had the bike up on the centre stand and just "tweeked" the brake rod out of the way, no problemo.

I came back from that first ride, and noticed that one side of my tire was badly "gouged". WTF? I put it back up on the centre stand, spun the wheel, and nothing touched. WTFF?? Then I realised, the "foot" on the left side of the stand was contacting the tire. Damn. I took the stand off and ground about half an inch of metal out of that thing, and it no longer touches.

As I said, you probably already know this, but I thought i'd remind you so you don't have to suffer the ignomy of gouging a new tire, like I did. Cheers, Terry.

[MCRider]

That looks great Ron, well done mate! I can't remember if you've already done this but be aware, to run a fat rear tire you also need to modify your centre stand.

I run a 16 inch, 150/90 rear tire on my K1, and when I installed it I had the bike up on the centre stand and just "tweeked" the brake rod out of the way, no problemo.

I came back from that first ride, and noticed that one side of my tire was badly "gouged". WTF? I put it back up on the centre stand, spun the wheel, and nothing touched. WTFF?? Then I realised, the "foot" on the left side of the stand was contacting the tire. Damn. I took the stand off and ground about half an inch of metal out of that thing, and it no longer touches.

As I said, you probably already know this, but I thought i'd remind you so you don't have to suffer the ignomy of gouging a new tire, like I did. Cheers, Terry.

Geez! No i didn't know that! Luckily the stand can be a last item. I figure i have to have a shorter one made (and side stand) as I am dropping the overall ride height with 17" wheels and low profile tires. But I won't know how much till its done. I'll pay attention to tire clearance too, thanks.

[andy750]

Why not just run without a center stand (a lot of weight lost right there) and when needed for tire changes, chain etc, just re-install temporarily by slipping metal tube through stand/clamps. This is what I do on my K2 - or used to before I got the stock exhaust - now I use a rear stand.

cheers
Andy

[MCRider]

Why not just run without a center stand (a lot of weight lost right there) and when needed for tire changes, chain etc, just re-install temporarily by slipping metal tube through stand/clamps. This is what I do on my K2 - or used to before I got the stock exhaust - now I use a rear stand.

cheers
Andy

I could, no doubt. But at least for now, the plan is to run a centerstand. I know you put alot of miles on your bike. I used to when I was your age. I think I would have missed the stand.

[Terry in Australia]

I've removed the centre stand on my racer project bike Andy, but for a road bike that does lots of miles, it's a pain in the arse not having a centre stand.

My GS1000S had the stand removed and a chunk cut out of the frame by Megacycle Exhausts (without my permission........) and it's a pain.

If the pipe wasn't so good I'd have removed it and welded everything back in years ago. (I made them fish all my discarded parts from their bin before I paid them) Cheers, Terry.

[Ichiban 4]

Look'n good Ron!

All that custom fabbing on the frame makes me envious of you guys with all the shop facilities.

I was also noticing how you were dressed when using the cheater bar..to get the rotor off of the crank.  Was thinking Jeeze..how cold is it in there?   Thought you were going to get new heater stuff going in there?

Keep the pics coming as you're able.  Clearly hear what you're saying about having to make a living..

later,

Al / Ichi

[voxonda]

Looking great Ron,

Like you said, wondering about the removable frame gussets. Looks OK but frame will not, or hardly, benefit.
Love to see it when ready.

Cheers, Rob

[UnCrash]

Thank you for posting detailed pictures of your progress.  Informative and inspirational!

[MCRider]

Look'n good Ron!

All that custom fabbing on the frame makes me envious of you guys with all the shop facilities.

I was also noticing how you were dressed when using the cheater bar..to get the rotor off of the crank.  Was thinking Jeeze..how cold is it in there?   Thought you were going to get new heater stuff going in there?

Keep the pics coming as you're able.  Clearly hear what you're saying about having to make a living..

later,

Al / Ichi

It took a while to find Saldana (machine shop) but now that I have anything is possible.

The picture is my friend, I was behind the camera. It was pre-new heater. Double layer clothes, coat hat and gloves. It's colder now than then outside, so still need to dress up. About 35 F in shop when its 20 F or lower outside.

New heater is disappointment, not enough guts. I have high ceilings. Its warm when I'm on the ladder, but not at ground level. Post from "mcuozzo" on page 17 tipped me off to a stronger unit I'm buying. I want 50F inside when its 20F or lower outside.

[MCRider]

Looking great Ron,

Like you said, wondering about the removable frame gussets. Looks OK but frame will not, or hardly, benefit.
Love to see it when ready.

Cheers, Rob

I know, I'm just goofing around a bit, but it's fun. I'm looking for "curb appeal". Something to talk about while sitting on the curb at the hotel with buddies drinking a brew and talking about bikes.

Speaking of which, what would it take to get one of your double wide rear motor mounts?

[voxonda]

Ron , think that is one of the best parts, besides messin' with the bikes, drinking and talking about how fast you used to be.
PM send.

[MCRider]

Ron , think that is one of the best parts, besides messin' with the bikes, drinking and talking about how fast you used to be.
PM send.

Got yer PM, will respond soon. Free Plug: http://www.voxonda.com/index.php?page=shop

I love the idea and look of the doublewide. I'd get the front one too except my engine guard is doing that duty by being welded to the engine mount in 2 places and then bolted to the frame in a third spot on the engine mount below the engine.

[UnCrash]

Hey MC, thanks for plugging Voxonda.  I had no idea!

[MCRider]

Hey MC, thanks for plugging Voxonda.  I had no idea!

You're welcome. The depth of talent and knowledge and ingenuity on this board is ...well... kewl!

[Terry in Australia]

The picture is my friend, I was behind the camera. It was pre-new heater. Double layer clothes, coat hat and gloves. It's colder now than then outside, so still need to dress up. About 35 F in shop when its 20 F or lower outside.

New heater is disappointment, not enough guts. I have high ceilings. Its warm when I'm on the ladder, but not at ground level. Post from "mcuozzo" on page 17 tipped me off to a stronger unit I'm buying. I want 50F inside when its 20F or lower outside.

Ha ha, well on the other side of the coin Ron, it's 8.36 pm as I type this, and it's still 100 deg F in my garage!

I'm sitting in my rumpus room under one of the cooler vents wishing I could go out and machine up a couple more oil cooler adapters, you Americans must all be dreaming of summer because all I've done over the last couple of weeks is fill orders for more adapters and full kits for guys living in the US! Cheers, Terry.  

[MCRider]

The picture is my friend, I was behind the camera. It was pre-new heater. Double layer clothes, coat hat and gloves. It's colder now than then outside, so still need to dress up. About 35 F in shop when its 20 F or lower outside.

New heater is disappointment, not enough guts. I have high ceilings. Its warm when I'm on the ladder, but not at ground level. Post from "mcuozzo" on page 17 tipped me off to a stronger unit I'm buying. I want 50F inside when its 20F or lower outside.

Ha ha, well on the other side of the coin Ron, it's 8.36 pm as I type this, and it's still 100 deg F in my garage!

I'm sitting in my rumpus room under one of the cooler vents wishing I could go out and machine up a couple more oil cooler adapters, you Americans must all be dreaming of summer because all I've done over the last couple of weeks is fill orders for more adapters and full kits for guys living in the US! Cheers, Terry.  

Dang you! We have a winter storm warning in effect till Wed. THat's for snow. After the snow comes the cold front and temps will drop lower, recover by the weekend. I'll install the new heater if its delivered by then.

Glad to hear you're keeping motors cool with coolers. I'll be shopping with you when I get closer to needing something.

[MCRider]

New heater just arrived via UPS. 19,000btu vs 13,000btu.   I was going to send the little one back, may still. But the wife told me to keep both! Have to check with the electrician.

[Terry in Australia]

Glad to hear you're keeping motors cool with coolers. I'll be shopping with you when I get closer to needing something.

No worries mate, and don't forget that I'm always happy to "horse-trade" with you. Have fun with the new heater, it's now 112 deg F in my garage @ just after 6pm, so needless to say, the coolers will have to wait! 

[MCRider]

Got my time in this week. Its to the point where my Mom is referring to my Sunday mornings with my buddy as church, like "when you get back from church, can you come over and shovel some snow?"
Brings me to the 6th largest snowfall in Indy's records. Came straight down 12.5". Not a lot to some of you, but its all relative. Of the other 5, only 2 were more than 13", 1910 and 1978. Here tis on a birdbath turned upside down:

But I got a lot done and thought about. Had a back and forth with FunJimmy on frame gussets. Wound up on this thread http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27624.0
bwaller talks (about 1/3 way down pg 1) about welding up the steering stem gusset, and FunJimmy on his 550 project thread had done just that...and so will I. More time.

Also on page 2 of that link is a link to an article by frame guru Tony Shoales about gusseting. Once i saw it I recognized it as one I had read way back when. He talks about strapping down a Kawasaki frame of the time, inserting a lever in the steering stem and twisting the frame. To the amazement of his pupils, it demonstrated visible flexibility. he goes on to show how he would brace it up. At one point he discusses removable gusseting, which I have and thought was hokey, but now feel better about.

Also is a discussion of braced swingarms. He thinks it may be wasted effort if the frame/pivot area is not gusseted first. I have some minor pivot gussets, but the major "pyramid" style he refers to may have to wait for the next project. Still good to know.

Why do I need such stuff on this project? Well I don't really, I'll never ride this bike hard enough to matter. I wanted it when I was younger, couldn't have it, so now I just want it.

Another bit of discussion, and I think HondaMan has crossed this bridge, and Gordon Jennings in his "550 Gentlemans Express" is to fit tighter motor mounts. I have done this on several of my mounts but I want more. So this will delay the powder coat as i source the long bolts. I want them to fit tight in the frame with nuts on both ends. This outfit says they can make anything, but want me to submit specs before they give me a price.     http://amcoenterprises.com
BTW: This place claims the premier SS supplier spot. Look in products for complete kits for restoration: http://inoxgrp.co.uk/  but they don't make custom sizes I think.

Anyway, I farted around with my new heater, sent the old new one back, finally realized that the new new one was designed to sit on the floor, so that's where it is. Puts out a ton, but my high ceilings make my shop impossible to heat efficiently I fear. Nevertheless the floor model can be right by my side and burn me so I'm good.

What I'm doing now is grinding and smoothing the stock welds. I've heard about customizers doing this since I was a child, but never did myself. Can't use any filler as the powder coating guys say it will pop out in the ovens. So I went around each weld with a small chisel and dinged off the bird sh-t, little bumps of spatter that were left by the factory and actually painted over, no shame.

Then i got the Dremel with the sandpaper drums:

and went at the weld on the sidestand mount. I figured it was out of the way if I goofed up. the first pass knocks off the highpoints

the black left behind is where i want to end

and ultimately I'll have the whole weld smoothed into the frame and the bracket, making it look like one piece.

I'm about a third of the way done.

Why you ask? Just cuz.

Having the frame hang from the ceiling at about shoulder height makes this easier.


In this process I discovered that the tab that sets the brake pedal is bent and cracked, probably from one of my many past get offs, and the steering stop on the fork head is bent. So, back to Saldana to weld the steering head gusset, the brake pedal tab, and anything else i can think of.

Once the powder hits, the frame is done.  Now I'm thinking of powder coating the engine guards same as the frame. That will make them seem even more a natural part...maybe.


So this week, the swingarm goes to Brown's http://www.brownsplating.com/chrome_direct.php
and the frame will go back to Saldana's to weld up the steering head gusset, and i stop #$%*ing about the cold.

[Terry in Australia]

Great work there Ron, but don't be a martyr for a few bucks, buy a 4 inch angle grinder with a sanding disc attachment and you'll get those welds as smooth as a baby's butt in 10 seconds flat! Dremels are good for plastic models, but that's about the limit of their capabilities.

I like the idea of the crash bars powdercoated the same color as the frame, the crappy aftermarket chrome is never much good, and integrating the bars as part of the frame will certainly add some professionalism to the aesthetics, in my opinion. Have fun in the snow! Cheers, Terry.

[MCRider]

Great work there Ron, but don't be a martyr for a few bucks, buy a 4 inch angle grinder with a sanding disc attachment and you'll get those welds as smooth as a baby's butt in 10 seconds flat! Dremels are good for plastic models, but that's about the limit of their capabilities.

I like the idea of the crash bars powdercoated the same color as the frame, the crappy aftermarket chrome is never much good, and integrating the bars as part of the frame will certainly add some professionalism to the aesthetics, in my opinion. Have fun in the snow! Cheers, Terry.

Thanks. I searched on "smoothing welds" and found some comments (you were in there, back in 2006) towards someone else who was smoothing with a Dremel. The warning was to not go too far. I'm afraid if I had something with some horsepower I might go too far into the weld. I can control the Dremel. I borrowed it from a friend and it is a much stronger Dremel than what I grew up with. I'm just rounding off the welds trying not to go too deep, and staying away from structural welds for the most part. 

I have this:
but again too afraid to use it. I'm about 1/2 done with the Dremel.

I was back and forth on the case guards. They don't look near as good in person as in the picture, original chrome is bad. If I had them chromed i would only use Brown's and they are pricey. So the frame color idea is appealing.

[DollarBill]

When I was working on my tank my father-in-law brought out a grinder with a soft rubber wheel that you put sanding disks on (it looks like a regular angle grinder).  I HAVE GOT TO GET ME ONE OF THEM!  It worked great and since it was flexible make it easier to get corners etc..  It is powerful but a lot more forgiving than a hard wheel grinder.

I have the same classic Bell helmet bag that is on your shelf.  Although mine holds an inflatable fishing tube and hip waiters...

Stay warm!

[MCRider]

When I was working on my tank my father-in-law brought out a grinder with a soft rubber wheel that you put sanding disks on (it looks like a regular angle grinder).  I HAVE GOT TO GET ME ONE OF THEM!  It worked great and since it was flexible make it easier to get corners etc..  It is powerful but a lot more forgiving than a hard wheel grinder.

I have the same classic Bell helmet bag that is on your shelf.  Although mine holds an inflatable fishing tube and hip waiters...

Stay warm!

I think I have a rubber wheel for the air tool in the photo. Guess I'll break down and figure out how to use it. I've used it with the wire brush that's on it for cleaning rust off my trailer and hitch. But never with a sanding wheel.

When I saw i'd caught the bottom of the bag in the picture, I wondered if anyone would notice. A real antique. That was my helmet bag when I was racing, it now contains the sidecovers for my project, kept out of harm's way.

Snow usually doesn't last too long here, about half of the 12.5 had melted off, but in the last hour we just got 4 more and its drifting, closing roads etc.  My wife drives the school bus. She kinda likes the snow. Bless her heart.