Author Topic: any ideas on on restoring or refinishing the controls that are on the handlebar? (Read 8450 times)

jamesv220820 · « **on:** March 11, 2009, 01:08:50 PM »

i have a cb350f and im basically redoing the handlebars and everything thats on them and i was wondering becuase the controls look like they were originally painted black but im not sure since it is an old bike i was wondering if you guys just sand them down then take some steel wool to them or paint them or whatever you do to make them look new?

also the kill/run switch is all faded is there some type of red plastic paint i can get at hobby lobby to make that lookin new as day?

thanks for all the help

-james

greenjeans · « **Reply #1 on:** March 11, 2009, 01:18:49 PM »

I'm currently in the process of doing mine. Tedious to say the least, but a good project that will definitely make a difference in looks.
I used EZ off oven cleaner to get the old annodizing off. At first I was going to polish them, but decided to go back to the original black.
Krylon makes a spray paint formulated especially for Plastic - available everywhere.

Since the controls are aluminum, I lightly bead blasted them before spraying them with an etching primer (also in a spray can) and followed with black.

Haven't got to filling in the tiny tiny lettering with orange just yet... that should be interesting.

BobbyR · « **Reply #2 on:** March 11, 2009, 01:32:18 PM »

The lettering is easy. Dab some paint on and gently wipe it off. That is how it was made originally.

nippon · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2009, 01:45:19 PM »

Hi,
you should disassembling your controls completeley. Be careful with the small springs, washers and balls, don't loose them.
Otherwise your switch will not work anymore. Do the whole disassembling in a bowl. Make pics. Removing the kill switch is tricky but not impossible,...You have to cut the two cables. Be careful, under the kill switch is a very small ball , spring and tin. Then sand your controls and take a good primer. Sand it again (wet) and do your paint job. Do the lettering as BobbyR wrote. BTW, I put some new shrink tube on the cables. Use a magnet to put the kill switch on that it stands up like a mushroom,...easy to paint now.
I did mine 1 1/2 year ago,...the paint holds up perfeclty.

nippon

paulages · « **Reply #4 on:** March 11, 2009, 01:47:25 PM »

...or have them re-anodized black.

Toxic · « **Reply #5 on:** March 11, 2009, 02:17:02 PM »

that's about the nicest job I have ever seen on rebuilding switches.

WHALEMAN · « **Reply #6 on:** March 11, 2009, 02:50:31 PM »

Has anyone ever sucessfully had them powdercoated? Dan

nippon · « **Reply #7 on:** March 11, 2009, 02:54:58 PM »

I guess, if you powdercoat them, the small gaps of the letters will be totally closed.

nippon

jamesv220820 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 11, 2009, 03:35:23 PM »

Quote from: nippon on March 11, 2009, 01:45:19 PM

Hi,
you should disassembling your controls completeley. Be careful with the small springs, washers and balls, don't loose them.
Otherwise your switch will not work anymore. Do the whole disassembling in a bowl. Make pics. Removing the kill switch is tricky but not impossible,...You have to cut the two cables. Be careful, under the kill switch is a very small ball , spring and tin. Then sand your controls and take a good primer. Sand it again (wet) and do your paint job. Do the lettering as BobbyR wrote. BTW, I put some new shrink tube on the cables. Use a magnet to put the kill switch on that it stands up like a mushroom,...easy to paint now.
I did mine 1 1/2 year ago,...the paint holds up perfeclty.

nippon

wow what type of paint did you use?

markb · « **Reply #9 on:** March 11, 2009, 03:58:39 PM »

Nice job nippon! Anyone know if they're similar to the CB750? I've got a nice set from a '72 but I need to replace the red kill switch knob with the black one from my faded '70 controls. What cables do you have to cut and what do you do then?
Mark

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2009, 04:43:27 PM »

Quote from: nippon on March 11, 2009, 01:45:19 PM

Be careful with the small springs, washers and balls, don't loose them.

+1. Took my turn signal switch apart this weekend. One very small ball, 2 springs, and a strip of metal that makes contact with the actual turn signal contacts. Cleaned and lubed it up and it makes all the difference in the world (that is, after I crawled all over the floor looking for them)... No more mushy feeling on right turns!

mark · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2009, 07:00:01 PM »

Next time I'm at the sporting goods store, I'm going to try to remember a bottle of this stuff:

"Aluminum Black® Metal Finish
Used by gunsmiths to blacken aluminum parts. Restores scratched and marred areas quickly. Fast-acting liquid is easy-to-apply with no dimensional change. Color will vary from deep gray to black depending on alloy. ALUMINUM BLACK is also excellent for blackening name plates, plaques, trophies and other engraved items."

...... couldn't hurt to try.

Really? · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2009, 07:04:45 PM »

I tried that easy off, didn't work. I just sanded and spray painted flat black, looked fine to me.

There is a thread somewhere buried in here where they did powder coat it.

I think Mr. Breeze replaced his with some chrome ones for a Yamaha. He even posted where he got them and how to wire them.

hapakev · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2009, 07:39:02 PM »

Wow Nippon, excellent work!! You mention cutting the "two cables," do you solder them upon reassembly?

nippon · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2009, 11:46:25 PM »

@hapakev ,

yes, you have to do this. You have to cut the cables because the contact plate will not go through the hole of the top half
of the switch.

nippon

SteveD CB500F · « **Reply #15 on:** March 12, 2009, 12:58:21 AM »

I feel a "Rebuild Your Handlebar Controls" FAQ coming on.

Got any more pictures nippon?

nippon · « **Reply #16 on:** March 12, 2009, 01:06:23 AM »

I think so, but i have to take a look at.

If not, I have another two switches to do and then I will make step by step pictures and I write a 'how to' from the ground.

Of course, in order to get a 100% stock look, you could take a mate black and a mate red color.
I removed the scratches with a Dremel first. Sanding. Primer, paint, mate clearcoat.
If you like playing with small parts and small springs,....then everybody can do it.

nippon.

77honda · « **Reply #17 on:** March 12, 2009, 01:28:59 AM »

Nippon, what paint did you use to paint the red kill switch toggle. I have mine apart and have bead blasted the housing reading for primer.
The kill switch button is faded, I was looking for a new one but impossible to find. Your restoration is fantastic, greta work.

Mike

jamesv220820 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 13, 2009, 04:01:08 PM »

Quote from: 77honda on March 12, 2009, 01:28:59 AM

Nippon, what paint did you use to paint the red kill switch toggle. I have mine apart and have bead blasted the housing reading for primer.
The kill switch button is faded, I was looking for a new one but impossible to find. Your restoration is fantastic, greta work.

Mike

i just finished doing mine my was extremely faded so i did 3 coats of krylon plastic paint (red), then 2 coats of clear coat ill take pictures but they look great

jamesv220820 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 13, 2009, 04:02:18 PM »

i'm, doing mine right now heres the progress

sorry the pics arent great little camera suck upclose

jamesv220820 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 13, 2009, 04:06:54 PM »

Quote from: 77honda on March 12, 2009, 01:28:59 AM

Nippon, what paint did you use to paint the red kill switch toggle. I have mine apart and have bead blasted the housing reading for primer.
The kill switch button is faded, I was looking for a new one but impossible to find. Your restoration is fantastic, greta work.

Mike

here you go mike i didnt feel like searching for balls and springs so i just did a really good tape job

love this paint no sanding required and when the clear coat is on top it is really smooth and strong

ps sorry about my disgusting hand

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #21 on:** March 13, 2009, 04:07:17 PM »

Nice guys, you are inspiring me to the point of almost wanting to work on mine.
Ehh, maybe not, it's getting warm this weekend.

77honda · « **Reply #22 on:** March 14, 2009, 02:12:11 AM »

Thanks James, you switch looks great, All I have to do is find a store that sells krylon plastic paint here in Australia.

Mike

mark · « **Reply #23 on:** March 14, 2009, 08:30:51 PM »

Apply magic smelly potion to bare aluminum...... aluminum turns black.

Further testing required.

jamesv220820 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 15, 2009, 09:00:21 AM »

Quote from: mark on March 14, 2009, 08:30:51 PM

Apply magic smelly potion to bare aluminum...... aluminum turns black.

Further testing required.

hmm interesting how strong is that stuff , can you take your fingernail to it and it won't scratch off? because i didnt like how mine turned out it kinda looked plasticky and not like metal

mark · « **Reply #25 on:** March 15, 2009, 10:33:00 AM »

...... well..... I took to it with a bit of steel wool(yeah I know) and a little came off.

Surface prep consisted of sanding a little patch and blowing off the dust... Then dabbing a spot, watching it fizz for a minute, then rinse with water and wipe dry.

Thorough prep would have involved more degreasing and washing steps, and I just wanted to see the stuff do something.

I think I'll try a larger area of a smaller part..... maybe the mounting clamp.

I'd kind of like to know what the factory finish really was.....

There's still some black inside - I don't think paint would last 30+ years in brake fluid.

Castings aren't usually anodized as irregularities in the alloy produce irregularities in the finish.... looks funny.

Black that fades to clear and doesn't peel..... weird stuff.

hmmm....

BobbyR · « **Reply #26 on:** March 17, 2009, 10:28:12 AM »

Anodizing looks fairly simple. Here is a DIY http://astro.neutral.org/anodise.shtml

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #27 on:** March 17, 2009, 11:32:03 AM »

anodizing @ home is simple and cheap. Has anyone tried gun bluing? Repeated applications will get you a nice dark black that is easy to touch up.

jamesv220820 · « **Reply #28 on:** March 17, 2009, 12:43:12 PM »

Quote from: BobbyR on March 11, 2009, 01:32:18 PM

The lettering is easy. Dab some paint on and gently wipe it off. That is how it was made originally.

hey bobby what type of paint do u use to dab on for those hard to get letters and what not?

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #29 on:** March 17, 2009, 01:00:29 PM »

Quote from: jamesv220820 on March 17, 2009, 12:43:12 PM

Quote from: BobbyR on March 11, 2009, 01:32:18 PM
The lettering is easy. Dab some paint on and gently wipe it off. That is how it was made originally.

hey bobby what type of paint do u use to dab on for those hard to get letters and what not?

You might try a hobby shop. They sell paint for models in very small quantity bottles.

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #30 on:** March 17, 2009, 03:55:31 PM »

Fine tip paint markers or lightly thinned model paint are good for the lettering. Try filling the recessed letters with thinned model paint using a tooth pick as an applicator. Let the paint dry a little and wipe or rub off the excess.

markb · « **Reply #31 on:** March 25, 2009, 10:37:15 AM »

So I tried the Aluminum Black, not totally pleased with the results. Anyone know a source for re-black anodizing? I've checked with the platers in the Minneapolis area and none of them want to touch it. The painted ones look nice but I'm concerned about how the master cylinder will hold up with the presence of brake fluid.

bunghole · « **Reply #32 on:** March 25, 2009, 11:30:48 AM »

I of course...OF COURSE DAMMIT!!! lost one of the little springs in the kill switch.

Can anyone give me the specs on both of them. I believe there is one under the electrical contact and one under the ball...is that correct. I'm not sure which one I have and which one I lost. I need the length and diameter. Also, if anyone has a source for small springs like that, I would be grateful!

'77 CB750k.

Thanks!

markb · « **Reply #33 on:** March 30, 2009, 05:36:08 AM »

Still looking for a source for black anodizing. Considering trying to set up to do it myself. Also has anyone tried using a permanent black marker to refinish or touch up the black? Intial trial didn't look too bad. Don't know how it will hold up though. One more question, anyone know if the color of the lettering was red or orange?
Thanks,
Mark

markb · « **Reply #34 on:** March 31, 2009, 05:51:38 AM »

Anyone?
By the way I found that you don't have to cut the wires for the kill switch. If you wiggle the half-moon shaped piece with the wires around a bit, it will go through the crescent-shaped hole.

Grumpol · « **Reply #35 on:** March 31, 2009, 06:07:19 AM »

black marker works well, for a day or three. it fades quickly.
you can get a spray product meant for vynil that actually gets into the product and produces a decent finish.
as for the black finish on your reservoir why ot hit it with an acid etch primer and a decent two pack paint

andy8190 · « **Reply #36 on:** March 31, 2009, 11:26:31 PM »

will a mate clear coat not make it look less shiny? what brand of paint are yall using for the glossy black?

News:

Author Topic: any ideas on on restoring or refinishing the controls that are on the handlebar? (Read 8450 times)

WHALEMAN