Topic: 1978 F2 restoration

[UK Pete]

I have started posting my restoration progress on the UK site, as i also go on this site i will put the same posts on here for the rest of the globe to see.

I have decided i am going to document my progress on here as i strip and restore my bike, in an earlier post i mentioned that i would like to do the whole thing for about £500 well i have already exceeded that amount ,and have set a more realistic target budget of about £1500, most of the cost is going to be the engine rebuild,  i have completely stripped my engine cleaned all the muck off it and assessed what is worn out and what can be reused. For an F2 the problem usually seems to be the valves, cam, and rockers, fortunately mine are reusable, and the bottom end of engine is real good, but my cylinders are a bit rusty, and the rings worn, so i have decided on a re-bore, the problem is the cost of new parts is huge , and there are only a few parts left at the usual suppliers, not even enough for a complete set of oversize pistons and rings, but if they do come into stock i am looking at about £300+ about £120 for a re-bore, then as i am doing a re-bore i feel like new valves,guides and camshaft would be a good investment, then the engine should be as good as new and smoke free, again the trouble is cams are listed at £600 but are unavailable, and the original Honda valves are almost £400, then about £100 for valve guides, anyway what the hell i think these engines look really good and i really like the look of the bike, and as time goes on all the original Honda bits are getting used up so i am going to do it while i still have a chance, so if at the end of the restoration i have a bike that is as good as new new for around £1500 then that is a result, plus it can only appreciate in value, and is a good usable classic.

The progress so far is
Frame, swing arm, center stand, side stand, battery box, top  bottom yolk are  at the powder coaters
In the process of re-furbing the comstars
Cylinder head has been degreased and blasted ready for painting
Seat stripped and ready to weld crack in base then paint and recover
Engine has been bought, and has now been stripped
New parts to date are NOS fork tubes, new pistons & seals kit for brakes, swing arm bearings, tank rubber, taper roller bearings for steering, seat cover

[HedNut]

Looking good my man!!  And I don't know how long you've been at it...but it looks like you're cruizin'! CHEERS TO YOU and keep up the good stuff.

[UK Pete]

i have been at it about 3 weeks now, I am progressing the F2 restoration at a reasonable speed, the frame, swing arm, battery box top yolk , side stand center stand , engine brackets, and rear brake arm have just been picked up from the powder coaters, the finish at first glance is very good , but on closer examination I have noticed some  rough spots, which happen to be right there on show on the RH main front down tubes, it looks like they have coated over a  patch of grit, I suppose it is my fault in a way because this place does mainly commercial gates and railings, they do not seem to take a pride in the finish of pride and joy things like my frame it is all treated in the same way.Oh yes and they also lost my rear brake light switch bracket , F--- knows where i will find another one of them.
To be honest I could repair the rough areas using my 2k spray, and then all would be good, but I will probably leave it and just get on with the rebuild as its not as if I will be entering shows, all I hope to achieve is a good looking usable classic bike which will retain some of its patina.
Anyway having these parts back means I can assemble the bike as a rolling chassis, which  always gets the enthusiasm going, its a shame that its so bloody cold at the moment because that really puts me off getting cold hands and feet.

Pete

[Flying J]

If you want to replace valves and pistons dynoman has them....$$$$$$ http://www.dynoman.net/bikepages/F2/index.html
also cycle x makes replacement valves for cheaper then dynoman.

[UK Pete]

Yes i have bought some new ss valves and guides in the dynoman sale, below is another of my posts from UK forum

I am struggling to find oversized pistons for my F2 , the cost of getting the 836 kit off dynoman then sent over to UK  including tax and fees ~+ the cost of sending my cylinder off and getting it rebored. Has left me thinking , so I took a honing tool to my rusty bores, the result is ok they are still within tolerence but one of them has a discoloured patch from the rust, strangely enough it is smooth and not pitted just sort of black in colour, if you were to close your eyes and feel the cylinders you would not be able to tell, which one had rust . and I am tempted to take the chance using the old pistons with new rings in these bores, I would like to hear if anyone has been in a similar position, and what they did
Pete

[BobbyR]

Yes i have bought some new ss valves and guides in the dynoman sale, below is another of my posts from UK forum

I am struggling to find oversized pistons for my F2 , the cost of getting the 836 kit off dynoman then sent over to UK  including tax and fees ~+ the cost of sending my cylinder off and getting it rebored. Has left me thinking , so I took a honing tool to my rusty bores, the result is ok they are still within tolerence but one of them has a discoloured patch from the rust, strangely enough it is smooth and not pitted just sort of black in colour, if you were to close your eyes and feel the cylinders you would not be able to tell, which one had rust . and I am tempted to take the chance using the old pistons with new rings in these bores, I would like to hear if anyone has been in a similar position, and what they did
Pete

Years ago before they had self setting boring machines the factories would use oversize rings to make up any differences.

[HedNut]

About your cylinders... I'm in the exact same position...had one REALLY bad & RUSTY bore. (some pics in my build) Took a hone to it, and it is nice now (like you said a couple of spots...but smooth) and still in tolerance...so I'm ordering a new set of Standard rings and gonna run it like that.  I'm sure it'll be great.... my plan is that after running it for a summer...or two, I may save up for some engine upgrades...like big bore, cam, etc.  But for NOW...I just wanna get it running "great"...do a nice but not "show" build...and ride next summer.   cheers!!

[UK Pete]

Yes we share the same thoughts and goals on that  HedNut, i will have it up and running then save up for the new parts if i really like the bike
Pete

[oldman]

UK ,found a 1975 750F, had the idea of just cranking and riding , before I knew it had bike completely disassembled,. don't know if budget of $1000. 00 will stand .carb rebuild and gasket set cost over $500. Had to bring home from mechanic will have to learn to do restoration myself labor to expensive.
 I used to be on a yamaha warrior site but reading the post on this site I see there are others that love the original super bike.

[UK Pete]

Hi i made a bit more progress today on the restoration, i fitted the swingarm bearings, then fitted swingarm, centerstand and side stand, battery box with some of the electrics,inner guard,oil tank, and top and bottom yolks, also i have received my new SS valves and guides from USA, the head is blasted and old guides removed so i am ready to press in the new ones and grind the valves in, the top crank case is blasted, just need to find the time to blast bottom case, cylinders, and any other bits so i can spray them black, i have opted for POR 15 engine enamel for the engine, as this seems to be the toughest finish, and totally petrol and solvent proof. I am a bit pissed off as i managed to snap off a tap in the crank case half when cleaning out the threads, so i am going to have to do the old MIG weld a nut on trick and hope that this works, there is also two broken off engine case bolts that were already broken off , i will either drill them or try the same nut welding trick.

Happy new year to all

Pete

[traveler]

Really looks nice....I like your rear shocks.

PM sent.

~Joe

[UK Pete]

Today i decided to have a go at removing the broken tap out my engine casing, anyone who has ever broken one off and tried removing it will know it is a really awkward job , drilling is not really an option as they are so hard .
I started off MIG welding a blob on to the cleaned end of broken tap, i then placed a nut over the blob and welded the nut to the tap, once done i tried undoing it, but it sheared off a bit further down the tap, so i tried the same again and on the 5th attempt i managed to free up the tap and unscrew it , it made a bit off a mess to the case but nothing real serious, i am just pleased i got it put, i was not so lucky with the two snapped off bolts that i found that were already broken when i dismantled the engine, these two just would not move with the nut welding trick, so i filed one flat, center punched it and hand drilled with a  drill bit half the diameter, i made a right F--k up of this the drill seemed to move off center a bit so when i drilled the next hole of the exact size it chewed off some of the casing on one side i must have drilled in at a bad angle. I will attempt to redrill and  Helicoil the one i messed up, the other one i am going to leave as it is right next to the big 8mm through bolts that hold the crank cases together, my thoughts are that the engine showed no sign of leaking with both these bolts missing before, so it should be OK especially as i will have repaired one of them,
below is a picture of the removal of broken tap
Pete

[UK Pete]

I just picked up my new rubber, a really nice looking pair of tyres, they cost alot more as they had to fit 2 new tubes, what tyres do you guys use?
I am finding it hard to keep motivated with the resoration , the thought of going outside at the moment puts me off I hope the -5 temperatures and snow go away soon.
Pete

[andy750]

Hey Pete,

Nice tires! Look very similar to the Bridgestones BT-45s that I use - great for corners and Im sure yours will be as well. I used to ride a CB750F2 from Oxford to London (Bermondsey) all the time to see my g/f and as you know the roundabouts are great fun. Your F2 will love it! Anyway as far as motivation goes keep going!!!! Enjoying your build progress so far! The F2 is a great bike and you are going to really enjoy it once its back together. I took mine to Paris, Normandy, Alsace, Scotland etc....very comfy for long distance riding. I miss it!

good luck
Andy

[UK Pete]

My first choice was bt45's but the guy in the tyre shop showed me the difference in profile , the bt's being being flatter in profile he advised me that the Avon tyres were better suited to the older styled bikes, so i took his advise.
As for getting this bike on the road i cant wait, i hope to have it finished by the may day bike run to hastings, if not done .
by then i have other bikes so its not the end of the world,
Pete

[andy750]

Good to know about the tires Pete and Ive heard others compliment the Avons so maybe Ill try them next myself. I have been very happy with the BT-45s though in dry and wet conditions.

cheers
Andy

[voxonda]

I have a F2 now that needs a rebuild, working on a engine now to replace the old oil boat! Have the same Avon Roadrider for the front and will go that way for the rear too. On my replica racer I use the BT45 which do a perfect job, at least for my speed.
Good job, just keep going! It's all covered in snow here too and in my garage the tools will freeze to your hands, but have to go on.

Cheers, Rob

[Halvin]

very nice set of tires.  I have a recently acquired 77 F2 that I plan to have running by spring time.  We have temperature and snow issues here in Ohio similar to those in London.  I need to replace the front tire on my F2 and know little of how tread patterns affect handling.  I recently read that the straight ribbed tire is best for the front tire.  How will the tread pattern on your Avon front tire affect straight line handling?  Is there a significant difference in handling between a plain looking straight ribbed tire on the front and the cool looking patterns such as are on your new set?

[andy750]

I need to replace the front tire on my F2 and know little of how tread patterns affect handling.  I recently read that the straight ribbed tire is best for the front tire.  How will the tread pattern on your Avon front tire affect straight line handling?  Is there a significant difference in handling between a plain looking straight ribbed tire on the front and the cool looking patterns such as are on your new set?

Halvin,

I dont know where you read that  but what I can say is the straight ribbed tire will not give you good handling on grooved pavements or steel bridges or any other deviation on the road such as tar snakes etc...the ribbed tires tend to track along the grooves in my experience (with CB750s) whereas the pattern shown above for the Avons (and BT-45s that look similar ) dont have that problem. As I understand it, its important to have both tires of the same tread pattern front/back for optimal handling.

cheers
Andy

[Halvin]

Andy-- thanks for the information.  Your explanation is logical but I read somewhere on this site that the ribbed tires offered better tracking.  I owned 5 motorcycles between 1967 and 1977 but didn't spend much time thinking about how they handled at the time.  I was more focused on what things cost because what I could afford sometimes barely got me over the road (getting over the road being my highest priority at the time).  My F-2 has a ribbed front tire on it which is dry rotted and must be replaced before it returns to the public thoroughfares.  Don't know if this is original equipment or not but I had a couple of bikes back in the '70s where ribbed front tire came as original equipment.  Thanks much for the feedback which will definitely influence my purchase decision.

[andy750]

No problem Halvin and just giving you my perspective/experience. If you do replace the front tire it may be a good idea to do the back at the same time with same brand tread. Pay careful attention to air pressure for the new tire as it may differ from whats recommended.

Other issues affecting handling (on the straight or corner) as you know are rear shocks, swingarm, steering head bearings and front fork spring/fluid. Make sure they are also in good working order as can make a significant difference.

Good luck
Andy

[rostosky750]

I have a spare good crancase, and some spare bolts and a set of pistons and rings and barrells to match here in the UK if you need them, plus quite a lot of good spares for f2 that I do not need any more as I am concentrating on my K2...... I have  also a wicked marshall deeptone exhaust almost new and looks brand new...pm me if you need anything.  I also have some good tips to spare you grief with the
 engine rebuild concerning oil leaks...

[UK Pete]

I have a spare good crancase, and some spare bolts and a set of pistons and rings and barrells to match here in the UK if you need them, plus quite a lot of good spares for f2 that I do not need any more as I am concentrating on my K2...... I have  also a wicked marshall deeptone exhaust almost new and looks brand new...pm me if you need anything.  I also have some good tips to spare you grief with the
 engine rebuild concerning oil leaks...

I sent you a pm but my out box shows no record of it, if you have not got it let me know
Pete

[UK Pete]

I managed to get some more parts blasted clean today, it is so satisfying when you have a whole load of clean parts sitting on the bench, when the temperature rises i will have a go at painting them,
Also today my new wheel bearings and bearing seals arrived so i can install these and be a step nearer to having a rolling chassis
Pete

[HedNut]

Those look so nice.... I'm jealous...mine are in a cold pile right now... to touch one would mean frost-bite ahah
Keep it up!