Topic: 1976 CB750K Stock/Cafe Hybrid

[Retro Rocket]

Yeah, those MF'ers were tough to put on. Mine are old as sin and I got them on by hitting them with a torch for a few seconds to get softened up. It may also help to take off the bottom of the airbox to get some leverage on the velocity stacks with your hand up inside; its a tight fit. Good luck getting those on.

Try a hair dryer to soften them up a bit...

Mick

[rickmoore24]

Yes, a hair dryer will work too, especially since his boots are new. But I like to use fire when I can.... 

[MorePDX]

Wow!  So much good info in this thread.  HondaMan has a book?!?  I can get custom grip pads made for my tank?!?  I love it.  Thanks for letting us see all your hard work, the bike looks killer!   

[Anti-Johnny]

subscribed. thanks for the detail. I just learned a lot.

[heyjones]

Glad it gave you some good information! So I'm trying to get the electrical sorted out. I ordered a replacement alternator wiring harness, but I'm still needing a couple of things. The first is the cable for the oil sensor and the second... well, I'm not sure what it is exactly. I can't find it in any of the schematics. But here are some photos showing what I still need to plug in, hopefully someone knows what's missing...









Oh, something else you should learn from my mistake(s)... take lots of photos! It's no fun not knowing exactly where things go when the time comes to put everything back together.

[rickmoore24]

If I remember right those loose wires go to the ignition button, kill switch and fuse box. I'll need to double check my photos though to be sure.

[Elan]

Hey I was wondering how the wiring harness worked out. I've also got a 76 and can't find one anywhere!

[HondaMan]

Glad it gave you some good information! So I'm trying to get the electrical sorted out. I ordered a replacement alternator wiring harness, but I'm still needing a couple of things. The first is the cable for the oil sensor and the second... well, I'm not sure what it is exactly. I can't find it in any of the schematics. But here are some photos showing what I still need to plug in, hopefully someone knows what's missing...

The Yellow/Red and Green/Red wires are for the Starter solenoid, if your Safety Module is reconnected to that Red connector.

Oh, something else you should learn from my mistake(s)... take lots of photos! It's no fun not knowing exactly where things go when the time comes to put everything back together.

The Safety Module can be removed and bypassed by connecting the Green/Red wire from the Red connector to the spare Green wire usually found near the top of this area. This makes the Start solenoid capable of engaging (by the START button) anytime, not just when in Neutral or when the Clutch is pulled in (like REAL motorcycles used to, when men were men, and bikes were bikes, and women were...but I digress...).

It appears you've replaced the voltage regulator with something else?

That last picture is the Diode. This electrically "ORs" the clutch and Neutral switch for the Safety Module (if you had one.  ). If you ground the Green/Red as described above, you don't need that Diode, either. 

[Really?]

Tagging along.  Nice build so far.  Your wiring harness brought me to your build thread.  I needed a pic of the triangle area for reference, thanks!

[lordmember1969]

+1

[michelangelo]

Thanks for all the pics... i'm having a hell of a time figuring out how my 76550k is supposed to go back together (especially since I wasn't the one who took it all apart) your pics are serving as my roadmap. Although I think I may have the wrong fuse-block compared to yours

[heyjones]

Thanks for all the interest in my thread lately! Finally had a couple minutes to start back on the bike, just finished moving. My work space has been downgraded from a carport to a patch of broken concrete on the side of my house. Awesome. Pretty fitting considering I rebuilt the engine in the back of my car! But I digress...



I ordered new connectors and the crimping tool from vintageconnections.com, that guys ships SO fast! I had a tracking number 10 minutes after I placed the order. Hopefully they get here by Monday, as I'd like to get the last of the wiring done before it starts raining again. Today I went out and put the rear brake shoes in and realized that I'm going to have to pull the swingarm off in order to get the rear brake lever in right. Aaargh!



I also replaced the new fork ears with some stock ones that I painted black. Living next to the beach has it's downsides...



I think I'm missing something though...



So the goal for next weekend is to have the wiring complete, front end complete and the rear brake finished. Wish me luck.

[MCRider]

YIKES! Besides the rubber bumper for the top of your fork ear, you do know about the washer shim that should go in that top bridge clamp don't you? I can't assume that you do as i don't want you to brake that clamp! Please respond, for your sake and my sanity.         

[heyjones]

Yeah, I'm trying to track those down. I spent an hour at the hardware store measuring different washers to no avail. I swear, if I can find the right size washers I'm going to buy a couple boxes, grind them into that "D" shape and sell 'em. It seems like nobody has those things!

[MCRider]

Yeah, I'm trying to track those down. I spent an hour at the hardware store measuring different washers to no avail. I swear, if I can find the right size washers I'm going to buy a couple boxes, grind them into that "D" shape and sell 'em. It seems like nobody has those things!

We've had several long threads on this issue. Check the Tips and Tricks forum for my thread on the subject. No need to tread where others, including me have already gone.  There is NO known washer in the free world that is of the same thickness, and it MUST be the same thickness or you will break the clamp...except... the washer that goes under the cylinder head nut on the CB750 is the same thickness. Actually, a few thou too thick. You can thin it by rubbing it on a piece of emory paper. I have many extras as do other people, you can grind the "D" into them and be good to go. They look slightly goofy as the OD is too big for the application, but they do work.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=72765.0

The original part may be listed by some suppliers, but i do think they are discontinued if you actually tried to order them.  Yamiya does have them but in a kit with other hardware for big $$.

[heyjones]

Yeah, I've read all those threads... wishful thinking that I could find "the one", I guess. I'll track down some of those cylinder head washers and go from there. How many extras do you have?

[MCRider]

Yeah, I've read all those threads... wishful thinking that I could find "the one", I guess. I'll track down some of those cylinder head washers and go from there. How many extras do you have?

A few dozen. If someone knew how to turn down the OD, we'd be in business. Make a batch and sell them for money for the Forum?

[heyjones]

Yeah, I was trying to think of a way to make a batch of them and give the money after parts and shipping to the forums. I'm guessing that having them pressed would be $$$. In the meantime, could I buy a couple of those washers off you?

[MCRider]

Yeah, I was trying to think of a way to make a batch of them and give the money after parts and shipping to the forums. I'm guessing that having them pressed would be $$$. In the meantime, could I buy a couple of those washers off you?

Free, Merry Christmas. PM me your mailing address I'll drop them in an envelope.

[heyjones]

First of all, thanks to MCRider and some of the other users that have been donating parts to my project! This board has been such an amazing resource... and I hope someone can help me see something that I'm missing here. I'm putting the rear brake back together and running into some very seemingly stupid problems. Basically, I can't get the rod that connects to the brake pedal to reach the rear brake. I've posted some photos, hopefully they can explain the problem.









Any idea why none of this is lining up?!

[MCRider]

Me Me Me!  

can't tell for sure from your pictures, but when anyone says (and there's been many more than you) that they can't get the pedal/rod/lever trio to line up there is one reason. The pull arm, the part the rod is connected to by the pin and cotter pin, goes BETWEEN the engine and the swingarm tube. You'll have to pull your pedal (which I can see in the picture you don't have the alignment dots lining up) and slide the pedal pivot out of the frame, turn it so the pull arm is sticking up between the engine and swingarm pivot tube, and slide it back into the frame. This may involve disconnecting the pull rod at the pin/cotterpin connection as you have your wheel in place.

The curve of the pull rod terminates pointing up. I'll go get some pics of mine so you can see. Give me 20 minutes.

Dollars to doughnuts that's the problem.

[MCRider]

Like this

Other view

Not so good view


Help, or no?

You can see my pull arm is resting against the swingarm tube from spring pressure. Once the brake pedal is on and the stop is adjusted, the pull arm will be not touching anything.  The rod with the joint is situated so that the curve of the joint wraps under the swingarm tube.

[Really?]

Hey Ron, have you eaten off that thing yet?

[MCRider]

And the question you had about not lining up? You are looking at the wrong parts. The "line up" is the dots on the end of the brake cam and the brake panel pull arm. Also the dots on the brake pedal itself and the brake pedal pivot arm.

The arrow and the groove is a brake shoe wear indicator, IIRC. They shouldn't liine up unless they are worn out.

[MCRider]

Hey Ron, have you eaten off that thing yet?

Tee hee, not with all that nasty shop dust on it.