The motor is a K1 Mark. I was initially going to swap the entire K7 clutch from the same parts bike that had the transmission snap rings installed backwards at the factory (the one that fell over on top of me when it went into gear by itself while on the kick-stand 
) as it only had 5300 miles, but I couldn't get the K1 clutch basket off the shaft. I ended up using 6 of the K7 friction disks and plates, and 1 each of the best K1 disks and plates, as well as the K7 springs with .075" shims. I put the shims on the outside ends of the springs, but extreme caution was required to make sure they were aligned over the posts when tightening the lifter plate. So far I've only ridden a couple of miles so I can't say if the extra holes have had any effect.
Ow! That's one 'mean' K7!
I had a K5 on top of me in January, took until May before my shoulder worked right again...
Now, the plot thickens: yes, I have seen the post-1976 clutch springs crooked, too. It was mighty rare in the earlier bikes before 1975, though. Around 1972-3 (depending on where the bike was made) they started getting slightly longer springs, although the parts fiche numbers don't always show it. The "new" springs were about 1mm longer, and corresponded to the 7-plate clutch that 'lost' the steel 1st plate on the bottom of the stack.
The steel-banded splines on the K0-K2 early Old Factory bikes are responsible for their death-grip on the mainshaft, even with the C-clip removed. Some of them, up through the K1, also had steel-centered hubs. These tend to rust onto the mainshaft, but were (are?) coveted by racers because the splines never split, even in dragsters. My K2 is one of those, has an early K1 engine (came that way!) that appears to have been made in early 1971, then was probably recycled thru 'refurb' operations for some defect, then ended up in my bike. The clutch hub is absolutely frozen to the mainshaft.
