Topic: SoCal Mut-N-Chop CB750 - ITS DONE!!!!

[mrrch]

A long punch for the races in the neck (and work evenly around the race so they do not cock and jam up) Use a grinder to cut (carefully) through the inner race on the triple tree. Worked great for me.

[brycegp]

Here are pics of what needs to be removed. BUT I need some advise on HOW to remove the top and bottom bearing cups and triple tree bearing cone.

1. Top Bearing Cup seems like it is a separate piece that is merely seated in the neck.


2. Bottom Bearing Cup also seems to be a separate piece seated in the neck.
 

The "Blind Hole Bearing Puller Tool" got both cups out in under 5 minutes.  Best removal tool ever invented!!  Auto Zone has a "loan out" program...in case anyone doesn't know...you just pay for the tool, use it and return it...NO CHARGE TO YOU.

[brycegp]

3. Triple Tree Bearing Cone at base of stem.  Removal tips??

This one was a little harder but the Dremel and a hard metal cutter bit...took about 15 minutes to cut it off.
EDIT:  Heating the cone at the base of the triple tree with a utility torch would have made it expand enough to slide off...FYI...



So then I just tapped in the new cups for the tapered bearings into the neck (top and bottom).  And then tapped the new bearing cone onto the base of the Triple Tree Stem, gave it some grease and bolted it up...

[traveler]

The one major job left for my bike, and I am putting it off until next year....dreading it.

Good job!

~Joe

[brycegp]

The one major job left for my bike, and I am putting it off until next year....dreading it.

Good job!

~Joe

Seriously man, if you just get those tools...the job will take under an hour.  Auto Zone will let you borrow the tools...

But make sure to get the same bearing kit I got...some other bearings don't fit exactly and require some fab to the neck and/or triple tree.

[brycegp]

So I scored a sweet pair of old Harley rims (both 2.5 X 18) from Hoosier Tom.  Thanks, Tom!!



The part # in case anyone wants it...



But FINALLY!!  After re-angling the nipple holes for the rear rim, powder coat and lacing up a fresh set of Buchanan spokes...here you go!  Next up is a set of Coker - 2" White Wall - 400 tires...gonna be SICK!

[Hoosier Tom]

Bryce,

   They look slick!  Glad they worked out for you.

HT

[MattFreeman]

Could you please explain a little more about the need and process for re-angling the nipple holes?

That motor looks great by the way.

[Jinxracing]

Could you please explain a little more about the need and process for re-angling the nipple holes?

That motor looks great by the way.

+1

[oohai]

wow those wheels look sick. i cant wait for to see the final product.

[brycegp]

Could you please explain a little more about the need and process for re-angling the nipple holes?

That motor looks great by the way.

Many guys swap rims to make new/custom wheels using their stock hubs.  I used harley rims to make my custom wheels.

Something you have to consider when ever getting a new rim to go with any hub.  When a rim is manufactured, the nipple holes must be drilled thru the rim for the spokes to go thru to the hub.  The diameter of the hub you are putting in the rim dictates the angel in which those "nipple holes" are drilled.  So if you take an existing rim and attempt to lace in a hub that is a different OD, you have have to "re-angle" the nipple holes.

Consider the angle the spokes take to the outter rim on the front wheel.  Its about 30 degrees.  BUT the angle the spokes take to the outter rim on the rear wheel is about 45 degrees.  If I hadn't reangled the hole on my rear rim, the nipple would seat at a 30 degree angle BUT the spokes would BEND at the end of the nipple an additional 15 degrees in order to point in the correct angle to attach to the hub in the correct place.

Therefore, having reangled the rear rim, the nipples seat at 45 degrees (not the original 30 degrees) and point in the correct angle to then reach the spoke holes on the hub.

Does all that make sense??

[MattFreeman]

That all makes tons of sense, thanks for the clear explanation.

Now, how do you do it? I'm thinking a drift and some leverage?

[brycegp]

That all makes tons of sense, thanks for the clear explanation.

Now, how do you do it? I'm thinking a drift and some leverage?

I had Buchanan Spoke & Rim Company redrill mine.  They have the tools to do it and it was only $15.  But they are local for me.  You really need to find a machinist that could do it for you....unless you have the Machining tools to pull it off. 

I do not...  ;-)

[brycegp]

I was rummaging around at The Garage Company and found some old "tank" type thing.  Didn't know at the time what it was...but now know it to be some part of a 1964 Ducati Super Falcon 80.  But its gonna make a SWEET oil tank for my CB750.  Mmuuuaaahaaahahahaha!!!

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In addition, I finally got my wheels trued and tires mounted this weekend.  Thanks to Johnson & Woods in Van Nuys for doing that for me.  They look effing AWESOME!!



So then I took them home and mocked up the bike just to get a taste of where its headed.  Also grabbed the stock tank and a spare cafe tail section I have laying around.  However, I'll be doing a completely custom tank and tail section later...but you can get a sneak peak at something close to what it will become.  Looks a little "tall" because the bike will come down about 3" once the wheels are actually mounted...but you get the idea.



Thoughts??

[Coyote13]

White walls on a cafe just seem out of place to me, but if you like 'em, more power to ya! The rest of the bike looks awesome so far, nice job!

[brycegp]

White walls on a cafe just seem out of place to me, but if you like 'em, more power to ya! The rest of the bike looks awesome so far, nice job!

As Morpheus would say...FREE YOUR MIND, Coyote...think outside the box.  And I wouldn't go so far as to hold this bike to the classic definition of "cafe racer", either.

[j squared]

Great looking build so far! I really like the pointed ends at the rear of the frame, finished touches like that are awesome.

[brycegp]

I mocked it up with the oil tank and actual ride height.  Looks a lot better in the lower stance....

but I think I will be mounting the oil tank up directly to the frame under the seat....dunno yet.

[greenjeans]

I think you're right about mounting the oil tank right up under the seat....cool shape to it.
The white walls are growing on me.

Looking good.

[brycegp]

So...I plan on deleting the handlebar switches.  But this means I have to put all those switches somewhere else...

Check out where I'm mounting my "Start Button".  Found this cool Mini Start Button on Feebay...and just drilled out the Top Triple Tree nut...perfect spot for it, if you ask me!!

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[unitedguitar]

That is a pretty neat idea. Where are you going to run it out of? Through the bottom tree?

[brycegp]

That is a pretty neat idea. Where are you going to run it out of? Through the bottom tree?

Yup...the wires come right out of the bottom of the triple tree....

[brycegp]

For those of you that have been following...recently I found a metal storage compartment off of a 1964 Ducati Falcon 80.





My friend Aaron took this and fab'ed it for me.  It's gonna get polished but look at the great work he did to turn it into a bolt up oil tank...

[Coyote13]

Gotta say, the whitewalls look much better just with the lower stance and I officially recant my previous post. Looks great man, that oil tank is gonna be killer

[HedNut]

I Love the white walls dude!!! Very cool... and that oil tank!! Wicked.... somebody with a lil' Super Falcon 80 will cry....but very cooL!!

Bike is going in the right direction! Cheers!