Author Topic: CB750 K1. Dont drink and ebay project.... (Read 43644 times)

jaguar · « **Reply #125 on:** August 18, 2011, 12:41:27 pm »

Thinking that the triple will need to be polished now. I like the polished look and kinda want to treat one nice after seeing how bad fuller treated one....lol

tires are in so now its time to finish cleaning/polishing the wheels

I know that the rear tube is fine but is the front to small???

MCRider · « **Reply #126 on:** August 18, 2011, 12:49:57 pm »

What size is the front tire? i wouldn't hesitate to use that tube up to a 3.50. If the tire's wider...hmmm. think I'd look around.

jaguar · « **Reply #127 on:** August 18, 2011, 01:47:03 pm »

100/90 19

just running the stock sizes

MCRider · « **Reply #128 on:** August 18, 2011, 02:29:53 pm »

Quote from: jaguar on August 18, 2011, 01:47:03 pm

100/90 19

just running the stock sizes

According to my tire width chart from Dan's Motorcycle (dansmc.com) a 100 metric=3.75 inches (or 4.10 low profile inch).
Stock size is a 3.25 inches which is a 90 metric.

I'd still run it knowing what i know and being comfortable with it. But you are stretching it a tad. And it ain't my bike or skin.

jaguar · « **Reply #129 on:** August 18, 2011, 02:47:32 pm »

Quote from: MCRider on August 18, 2011, 02:29:53 pm

Quote from: jaguar on August 18, 2011, 01:47:03 pm
100/90 19

just running the stock sizes
According to my tire width chart from Dan's Motorcycle (dansmc.com) a 100 metric=3.75 inches (or 4.10 low profile inch).
Stock size is a 3.25 inches which is a 90 metric.

I'd still run it knowing what i know and being comfortable with it. But you are stretching it a tad. And it ain't my bike or skin.

thanks for the info

jaguar · « **Reply #130 on:** August 18, 2011, 02:47:42 pm »

better pics

starting to polish stuff again.....really thats my way of saying im waiting on parts and money.....

might run these on this bike but not sure.

Danno · « **Reply #131 on:** August 18, 2011, 09:02:40 pm »

they were all hand welded in a jig even modern bikes were hand welded till the late 80's and these bikes were mostly welded by an arc welder and had to be hand chipped (slag) after they were done
some of the very first ones that were hand assembled had nicer welds because they were gas welded a process that required very skilled labor to do but most of the k1's that were done in the bigger plant were arc welded

jaguar · « **Reply #132 on:** August 18, 2011, 09:12:53 pm »

Quote from: Danno on August 18, 2011, 09:02:40 pm

they were all hand welded in a jig even modern bikes were hand welded till the late 80's and these bikes were mostly welded by an arc welder and had to be hand chipped (slag) after they were done
some of the very first ones that were hand assembled had nicer welds because they were gas welded a process that required very skilled labor to do but most of the k1's that were done in the bigger plant were arc welded

thanks for the info.
its and interesting history that the early bikes had.
I would one day love to have an all original perfect K0, but i dont have the money to buy one or the patients to build one.

jaguar · « **Reply #133 on:** August 20, 2011, 10:05:19 am »

well after a little reading i have figured that i need a latter rotor...something lighter to go better with a APE crank....

never really cracked a sohc4 engine. do they all have this many balance holes?

also i thought that these had small balls in them? whats up?

MCRider · « **Reply #134 on:** August 21, 2011, 05:59:45 am »

1. Should be plenty of used rotors around (I may have one)
2. Yes lots of holes.
3. Those are plugs for manufacturing holes that were drilled in the crank for oil passages. Someone had a post of cleaning the crank really well as sludge can be deposited in its nether regions internally. Not sure about the "balls". You can see the stakes from the factory, to keep them (set screws?) in.

jaguar · « **Reply #135 on:** August 24, 2011, 10:49:05 am »

Quote from: MCRider on August 21, 2011, 05:59:45 am

1. Should be plenty of used rotors around (I may have one)
2. Yes lots of holes.
3. Those are plugs for manufacturing holes that were drilled in the crank for oil passages. Someone had a post of cleaning the crank really well as sludge can be deposited in its nether regions internally. Not sure about the "balls". You can see the stakes from the factory, to keep them (set screws?) in.

Ill dig around and see if i have a rotor.
yeah those set screws are struck to set them
do you have a link to the crank cleaning?

jaguar · « **Reply #136 on:** August 24, 2011, 10:52:01 am »

started to collect the parts for redoing the chains and tensioners.

need a new one of these.....

MCRider · « **Reply #137 on:** August 24, 2011, 10:58:59 am »

FYI: In case you didn't already know...

That clutch lifter plate breaks like that when the clutch hub and pressure plate are assembled incorrectly. They are splined and the splines have to engage. You have essentially 4 choices on assembling those two pieces. No more than 2 of the choices allow the splines to engage, so you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. If wrong, and you go to crank down the four bolts of the lifter plate it will break as yours has.

If you need help when the time comes, there is a thread on this, at least one, and i have pictures.

MCRider · « **Reply #138 on:** August 24, 2011, 11:02:13 am »

Crank cleaning... I remember it was a member who was restoring a K0, so I'm pretty sure it was part of his build thread in the project forum. I'll look around.

MCRider · « **Reply #139 on:** August 24, 2011, 11:11:50 am »

Its page 7 of this thread. Really opened my eyes.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=79183.150

jaguar · « **Reply #140 on:** August 24, 2011, 11:55:47 am »

Kinda scared to try and remove those set screws after they were pinged into place....

MCRider · « **Reply #141 on:** August 24, 2011, 12:01:33 pm »

Quote from: jaguar on August 24, 2011, 11:55:47 am

Kinda scared to try and remove those set screws after they were pinged into place....

I agree. i wouldn't do it either. The thread indicates that APE does that when preparing a APERACING Crank (which I have). I have not checked with APE if they did it to mine, though. I may some day. Its already installed and there it will stay. I'll run some seafoam thru it.

Knowing now that sludge can build up in there, I would spend a little time in the solvent tank, running solvent in every hole possible. That would at least help. Assuming APE didn't do it.

MCRider · « **Reply #142 on:** August 24, 2011, 02:48:18 pm »

I just got an email reply from APE, "techservice" no human signature. They say that drilling out those holes and cleaning the crank is not done regularly on a SOHC but on request. Request is usually after an engine blows up and there is a suspicion of debris in the crank.

So I'd say the compromise route is soaking it in the solvent tank and runnung cleaners into the holes

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #143 on:** August 25, 2011, 02:19:28 am »

Quote from: jaguar on August 24, 2011, 10:52:01 am

need a new one of these.....

+1 on what Ron said, but the most common reason that those plates break is uneven loosening/tightening of the four 6mm bolts. You really have to make sure that you do them evenly, or that sucker will break with no warning. Cheers, Terry.