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If you use a tap coat in thick grease. this will catch 99% of the shavings. Someone wrote:" The sparkplug will not seal against a cheap helicoil, and you will get blowby every time that cylinder compresses and/or fires"Say Wha? I tapped and helicoiled my ford truck and I've put 10,000 hard miles on it no problems since. Including a trip halfway across the US and Canada @ 14 hour days and towing my boat 1000 miles roundtrip over two mountain passes each way. And the timesert is nothing more than a fancy over priced helicoil (same idea same result) but at 10X the cost.The one good thing is the SOHC4 head is relatively easy to take off, unlike my F150.
camelman, Helicoil probably wasn't done right and wasn't 'square' to surface The end should be one full thread below surface, something a bunch of people get wrong
Only time I've seen drive tang break off premature is when hole wasn't tapped deep enough and it bound up on the taper section left by tap. You have to have 'full thread' for at least length of helicoil plus two threads (they get smaller diameter but 'longer' when installed)
I know this thread is done, but I just want to clarify the issue I had. The end of the helicoil has to be flattened where the spark plug washer contacts it. That is where I got blowby. I didn't do the helicoil myself, and just assumed it was done right. I ended up doubling the washers (one slightly larger one against the cylinder head) to get a seal. The blowby didn't come from the threads, it came from where the spark plug washer didn't contact the head well. I'm sure there are better options for helicoils too. I think the one I had installed wasn't appropriate for the task.