Topic: 74 CB750 Navy Style

[Harsh]

Upon the suggestion of another member I decided to post up my build thread. 

I was given a 1974 Honda CB750 by my neighbor across the street. He was moving across country and didn't have the room for it. It had no title, looks like a pile of poo, and the electrics are shot, but I know I can transform it into a nice cafe racer. It took me a couple of months, but I finally acquired a title from Virginia. I obtained the title by going through the abandoned vehicle code of VA.

One of the first things I did (after I removed the ginormous seat) was remove the tank and noticed it had a failed Kreem coating in it. Removed the coating with MEK, but noticed the previous owner broke off the petcock and then did an atrocious welding job to half ass fix it.

I then noticed that the front forks were bent. So the hunt began for some new legs. While at it I figured I might as well upgrade a little. I found a local guy that had a set of legs from a 1975 Honda GL1000. He also had the rear wheel that I picked up from him all for $150.

I started tearing the bike down to facilitate pulling the engine. I checked the compression in the cylinders and all is good. Cylinders 1,3,&4 each had 110 psi. Cylinder 2 had 116 psi. I know those are a little low for what you would like to see, but I got them by utilizing the kick starter so I figure they were good enough. I have zero history on the bike. I know it has been sitting in a back yard for 4 or 5 years without anything being done to it. I don't even know if it shifts through the gears because the clutch cable is broken.


The day I brought her home


Failed Kreem coating


Horrible repair job


GL1000 front end and rear wheel


I managed to wrangle the engine out of the frame.  I wound up sliding a piece of steel rod I had in the garage through the rear lower engine mount.  From there I was basically able to lift and slide the engine little by little until I cleared the frame.  I tried the dump the bike on its side and lift the frame off of the engine but failed miserably.



Here she is on the bench



And after I removed the valve cover.  Only two bolts required any real effort.  I had to use some PB blaster and some heat to loosen the bond.  Now I get to start the real work.  I have never tore down an engine before so this should be interesting to say the least.



Took a while since I had to read the manual what seemed like a hundred times over to figure out what they were trying to imply, but I got the head off.



Valve side...lots of carbon build up



And what the tops of the cylinders look like.

[Harsh]

After I pulled the jugs off.  It took a bit of banging with the rubber mallet to slowly work it up, but it came off without a hitch.  I am a little worried to keep taking it apart since everything seems to look good.  My intentions were to take it apart to see if I notice anything broken or wrong and to cleanup the block so I could paint it.  At this point I think I might be able to clean the bottom end, but I am worried about painting it.  I don't want to get anything inside of it.  The top end I am certain I can finish taking apart and get it back together without a hitch.





After discussion with a couple of buddies I have decided to take it completely apart.  Not know the history of the bike who knows if there is a spun bearing or something else catastrophic inside.

So I split the cases.  Took a lot longer than it should have, but oh well.  I had to make trip to the local Honda dealer for some tech advice.  They have an older guy that works there that knows the CB's like the back of his hand.  The manual just says to remove a particular bolt, but when I go to loosen it the crank shaft just spins.  He gave me a trick to do, but I ended up not even removing the part since it was attached to the crank and the crank and attaching parts can come off as one unit after the case is split.  The part I didn't remove is the thing sticking out of the engine to the lower right in the first pic.

[mg]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v636/sharsh01/CB750/IMG_0047.jpg[/img]





And what the vast majority of a CB750 looks like in a tote


I got a fair amount accomplished today.  Again I took it slow.  My camera was giving me fits all day.  I must have changed out the batteries three times.  I guess my POS Canon point n shoot is giving up the ghost.  Too bad the wife won't let me take use her nice camera.  That is probably a good thing though.

Numbered for posterity sake.  I put each bearing in its own labeled baggie.  Top half of case.



Bottom half of case.



With everything removed from the case except one bearing which you can't see.  I have to get a puller for that.



Bottom of the engine...It is nasty with A LOT of caked in goo in the nooks and crannies.



All clean (well mostly)



Inside of lower case after cleaning



Oil pan inside and out...NASTY





All Clean







Now to the bad...I broke two studs today.  The PO put in these stupid studs so that they could put on some bullet nuts on the outside of the engine.  Well the studs are steel and the block is aluminum.  I am going to go out on a limb and say they didn't use any antiseize or oil during installation.  I was lucky enough to get all of the others out without too much of a problem.  These two didn't want to budge so I have had them soaking in PB blaster.  Well I decided to try and get them out.  I put on the vice grips and started to gently wiggle them back and forth.  They appeared to be moving just a tiny bit with every back and forth motion so I kept going...slowly.  Then the inevitable snap.  I drilled out one of them and tried to use the easy out, but it wasn't budging.  Not wanting to snap the easy out I tried some more PB and heat.  Nope, nada, nothing.  So they are sitting in some more PB.  Luckily they aren't in a sealed area.  There is one broken stud in each case half and they both go to the cover for the points.

Cleaned up the top half.  Not as a big of a difference as the bottom, but it is definitely cleaner.  My gasket and oil seal kit came today as well.  I am a little worried since I see a whole lot of gaskets and seals that I don't remember removing.  However, since I haven't taken the head apart I am hoping they go in there.  I also didn't take apart the oil pump so I bet some of them go there as well.

Before cleaning



After cleaning



New gaskets/seals

[Harsh]

Got everything prepped for bead blasting tomorrow.  I wanted to make do my best to minimize anything getting into oil passages or on bearing surfaces.  I am hopeful that the entire case will fit into the blasting cabinet so I can blast it as a complete unit.  If not, it is ready to be done in sections.  I am also going to bring along the covers.










After I bead blasted everything.  It took a lot longer than I had planned.  The cases went fast and easy.  The jugs and head did not.  Getting all of the old paint off of the fins was extremely time consuming.  I ended up having to change the media to a more aggressive substance to get it to do anything.

I also got the couple of broken studs out and re-tapped the holes.

A few before shots






And a few few after shots










Got the head and valves cleaned off.  It was caked on thick so it took a couple of coatings and some light scrubbing with a toothbrush.  They are spic and span now.

[Harsh]

Here are a couple of pics of my polishing.  I only spent about 20 minutes per part.  They all have some scratches and some pitting, but should work.










On with the show.  I was able to remove the piston rings today.  What a pain that was.  Those things were damn near welded in there.  They came out in tiny bits.  The 3 piece oil ring came out very easily as it was never stuck.




I also found out that I will need a new countershaft bearing.  The one I have has some grit in it I can't get out.  You can feel it grind every now and then.  So $10-$15 for a new bearing vice grenading the transmission is an easy decision to make.


I also received the chain cover I was missing.  Unfortunately, it has a crack in it.  I don't think the guy I bought it from knew since I didn't even notice it initially.  It isn't really structural, but I am still worried about it vibrating and cracking further until it completely fails.  I had a buddy weld it for me so all is good.

Outside of part.  The top edge mates to the engine case and is held in place with a bolt that goes through the hump on the right.  It was a little dirty which covered some of it up.


Bottom of hump section.


Inside.  This section was completely covered in built up grease.  When I started cleaning it is when I noticed the crack.  It appears that the chain made contact at one point causing the damage.



Picked up a few parts today off of Craigslist for a whopping $60

Aftermarkets made by Maier.  Of course they will be stripped of their paint.


And two sets of bars.  They have a different rise to them.  Not sure which one I will use yet.



I also talked to my buddy that owns a powder coating shop.  He said he would do the engine, forks, triples, basically everything except the frame and swingarm for $75.

[IRISHCBRACER]

Nice work on the motor!!! I cant wait to work on mine 

[Z-MO]

I was an F-14 wrench down at Oceana for about 5 years,  about to start my own first 750 rebuild.  Looking forward to following you progress.

[lucky]

Upon the suggestion of another member I decided to post up my build thread. 

(SHORTENED)

How do you know it is Kreem coating?
It looks like the white coating is over some red colored coating.

That engine case is going to have to be TIG welded by someone who knows what they are doing. Of course the cracks have to be ground out before welding.

Sure would like to see that welded engine case.

[Harsh]

I asked what it looked like and received the reply that it was a Kreem coating.

The guy that did the welding knows what he is doing and he did TIG it.  It isn't the engine case.  It is the bolt on cover that goes over the front sprocket.  I have to do some cleanup to the weld to make it look smooth, but I will get a pic when I am done.  Unfortunately, I didn't get a pic after the weld was completed before I started sanding and smoothing it down.

[lucky]

"Navy style" What does that mean?

[Stev-o]

Good to see you started this thread, you are making good progress. Let me know if you need an engine over, I'll trade you for 20 min of polishing!

[Steve_K]

I like your build start.  May I suggest that you scrub and flush all your oil passages.  I know from past experiences how hard it is to get glass beads out of the cases.  Maybe you knew that.  Good luck with that build and good to have that title.
Steve

[Old Scrambler]

Great Start!..........and +1 with Steve...........also suggest you clean the oil passages in the crank.

[nomad]

So, was the replacement fuel tank any better than the one that came with the bike... or was it worse?

[Prospect]

Great progress.  I'm quite impressed by your tape masking skills!!  Good luck!

[GrandRapids750K3]

As someone who also has zero engine experience I'm impressed and motivated to try it myself someday. +1 on the taping as well.... Looking forward to watching your progress.

[Harsh]

I put Navy style because I am in my 22nd year of being in the Navy.  Plus I thought it was a little catchier.

I fully plan on cleaning out the oil passages in the case and the crank.

I haven't picked up the tank yet.  My buddy has been in Colorado spending time with his ailing Grandmother.

It took me quite a while to do all of the taping.  I went through two razor blades.

I Finally decided on my colors. It took a fair amount of time searching through the gazillion different colors, but I found the colors I am going to go with.  The engine, swingarm, lower fork tubes are going to be the gunmetal with the grooves blue.  Triples, calipers, rotor carriers, wheel hubs and frame will be blue.  Throughout the bike I will have a smattering of blue and gunmetal bits.

http://www.powderbuythepound.com/RAL_5011_STEELE_BLUE.html

http://www.powderbuythepound.com/AUTO_CHARCOAL_METALLIC_PANEL.html


Made a little more progress today.  I was able to get the forks taken apart and cleaned up for powder coating. Unlike all other forks I have worked with you must take out the screw in the bottom of the GL1000 forks to separate the two tubes. They were absolutely nasty inside. The fluid had literally turned into a goo on the bottom.

[Harsh]

Also got some more polishing done today.

[Harsh]

Seems like forever since I have updated anything.  Well I unlaced the GL1000 wheels tonight and prepped the front hub for powder coating.  I want to try and get as many things powder coated at the same time.  I know frame and swingarm will be done later, but if I can get all the little bits done at once I think it will make it easier on me later on.  I still have to take the rear wheel off the bike, unlace it, and prep the hub.



I noticed a little damage to the rear wheel presumably from a previous installation/removal of a tire.  I don't think it will matter too much since the wheels and tires use tubes vice the tire sealing to the wheel.  The damage is on the inside of the wheel so no one would notice it unless they went hunting for something.  The front has a couple of knicks from previous tire installs, but nothing too bad.

[754]

 Razor blades?? try a soft hammer... quicker..

[Harsh]

I was finally able to get into the garage to clean up the rear hub.  I properly buggered up the two retaining nuts so those will have to be replaced.  However, the hub came out nicely.  Now I just have to remove the bearings before the hubs go to the powder coater.

Before:


After:

[Harsh]

I realize it has been a while since I provided an update.  All I have really been doing is cleaning a lot of parts prepping them for powder coat.  I figure if I am getting a really good deal on getting everything powder coated I might as well do as much as I can to help out.  I was finally able to get the bearings removed from the rear wheel last night and I found a source for the one bearing Honda doesn't make anymore.  Luckily for me there is a bearing supply place about 5 minutes from the house.  I took in what I have and they spec'd it out and got me a new bearing.  It is even from the original manufacturer.  I borrowed a blind bearing removal tool that I broke within 5 minutes of use.  That thing shattered like nobody's business.  So I had to run out and buy him a new one.  So much for not spending money on a 1 time use tool.  All I need to do now is remove the font wheel bearings and as far as I can tell I will be ready for powder coat.

The wife and I had a discussion about me getting some of the tax return money.  I was only asking for $500.  That will barely get the rest of the engine parts I require, the new spokes for the wheels, and pay for the powder coating.  She scoffed at it and thought I only needed ~$150.  The the timeline of the project also came up.  My idea of a long term project is 1.5 years.  Hers is 3 to 4 years.  She needs to get off the slow boat to China and onto the bullet train I am riding.

[lucky]

Did that tax refund money include the special embezzlement fund you have?LOL..lol

BTW Women are statistically better at embezzlement than men.

[Harsh]

HA...unfortunately no.  Due to my job the wife does the bills so she knows exactly what comes and goes into the account.

[Stev-o]

That's exactly why I have my own checking acct. I spend my "allowance" on whatever I choose (mostly bike parts) and she spends hers (on worthless items like clothes, boots & purses).
And I won't be getting any of the $2K tax return but she didn't get any of my $1K Xmas bonus!

[Harsh]

Well here is everything that will be receiving powder coat.  I meet up with the guy doing the work tomorrow to go over things.  My stomach is in knots just thinking about it.