Author Topic: Assembly and Discussion of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide) (Read 99738 times)

brettster26 · « **Reply #50 on:** August 30, 2011, 08:16:12 PM »

I dont want to steal the thunder from this thread but I was wondering if anyone could help me out with how to get the left hand control on the bars without running the wires through the bars... Figure this would complete the post if this question is answered. I believe the right hand control has a cut out so the wires fit through the bracket without having to go through the bars.

Thanks

mystic_1 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 30, 2011, 08:32:49 PM »

Well, to avoid having to drill the bars and route the wires internally, you pretty much need to notch the switch housing. I know this has been done successfully by others but I've never done so myself. Note that you'll still need to drill a hole for the control unit's locating pin which keeps it from rotating on the bars.

mystic_1

SohRon · « **Reply #52 on:** September 05, 2011, 06:27:07 AM »

Like Mystic_1 said...

Also, you didn't mention what bike you're riding; I believe some of the later "F" models ran the wires outside the bars, but the "K" bikes run them internally.

brettster26 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 07, 2011, 06:40:31 AM »

My Bike is a 75 CB 550K The handlebars that were on there when i bought it were Ape hangers and had the wires through the bars.

lucky · « **Reply #54 on:** December 14, 2011, 07:25:14 AM »

Quote from: Really? on December 18, 2010, 08:35:17 AM

I am not talking about the two that hold the case halves together, I am talking about the little ones inside. I am guessing they are JIS, I didn't have my JIS screwdrivers until after i buggered them. Ace is kind of rare around me. The Fastenal near me won't break open bags anymore. I guess I had them break open too many, lol.

The screws are NOT JIS. See the little punch mark on the top of the screw? That means that it is ISO (International Standards Organization) not JIS (Japanese International standard) Changed around 1965.

naber11 · « **Reply #55 on:** December 28, 2011, 05:41:37 AM »

I appreciate your post as I work thru re-building a right hand control. I have a 1976 550K and the wires had been cut or broke loose inside the housing when I bought the bike. There are Five wires going in the housing. I know the two that go to the kill switch and the yellow/red that goes on the end of the start button but I can't tell where the other two wires connect. I will be re-soldering them all once I identify where the last two wires connect. Please let me know how they go, Thanks, Jeff

RFogelsong · « **Reply #56 on:** April 03, 2012, 09:29:29 PM »

Any idea where I can get the "start" button switch assembly? I've tried david silver and yamiya with no luck, and from what I gather, the people on ebay seem to only sell the button and spring and not the plastic part in the middle of the assembly or back plate you need to solder the yellow/red to as well.

Old75_ratafe · « **Reply #57 on:** April 04, 2012, 12:37:06 AM »

I do have a slight solution that I used on my starter switch. I have a 75 cb750k that has the on-off switch on the right control for the lights. I bought what I thought was the same one as mine but I believe it was a 76 model (modular connector and no on/off for the lights). It is all metal like the 75 and prior but has the later headlight always on and headlight kill starter switch setup of later models. The upper half of the switch did not have the on/off for the lights. What I did was take the lower half of the switch housing from the 76 with the later style switch in it and simply unsolder the factory wires from both and re soldered to the other one. Using the 76 housing I just did not solder anything to the 3rd position which is used for the headlight kill when the switch is pushed to the start position. I physically can not tell them apart by looking at them (except the bottom which has a kick out for the larger switch) and have the more reliable later switch, and still a matching full metal housing. I didn't even have to touch the top housing at all during this or remove the wires from the bars, just loosened the center clamp and let the bars flip upside down to get access. Took me all of an hour to split the switches, undo the throttle cables, unsolder the old lower housing and re solder the wires to the newer one and put it all back together.

Accolay · « **Reply #58 on:** April 04, 2012, 07:39:41 PM »

As far as the JIS internal screws go, I think I have found a supplier, but he is in the UK. He will send me 80 of the screws for free if I pay for shipping...but so far that looks cost prohibitive.

SohRon · « **Reply #59 on:** April 04, 2012, 09:06:16 PM »

Any idea where I can get the "start" button switch assembly...

It sounds as if you're basically looking for everything but the housing?! I don't think any of this stuff was ever offered separately, though I do believe the button and spring may currently be available through the vendors.

I think your best bet would be to pick up a used control from Sohc's very own "parts for sale" forum, ebay or a bone yard. I've seen some pretty decent switches on ebay that have gone for half the price of a new one from Yamiya.

Alternatively, you could always advertise for the parts you need in the "Bikes and Parts Wanted" forum here on the site, and someone may be able to help you out!

Good luck!

I do have a slight solution that I used on my starter switch...

Interesting... All kinds of possibilities popping up!

As far as the JIS internal screws go, I think I have found a supplier, but he is in the UK. He will send me 80 of the screws for free if I pay for shipping...but so far that looks cost prohibitive.

Sooo, just how much does the ~~sonuvabi~~ gentleman want for shipping? Maybe we can get a fund going?

Thanks for looking, Accolay!

RFogelsong · « **Reply #60 on:** April 05, 2012, 09:02:31 PM »

Not really, the right hand assembly consists of the kill switch assembly, the on/off headlight assembly, the starter button assembly and the housing itself. I'm just looking for the button assembly bit. I'll post a wtb bit on the forum here soon, seems like a logical place to start.

caferacer750 · « **Reply #61 on:** April 11, 2012, 04:47:55 AM »

great wright up and was a big help with my build thanks

Accolay · « **Reply #62 on:** April 11, 2012, 09:09:12 AM »

I think I want to measure the screws again. He was going to send me 40 of each 3x6 and 3x8. Shipping would be via one of the major carrier- UPS, DHL, FedEx, or TNT. Somebody would need to open an account so he could get it billed. I looked at the shipping rates, and they seemed mighty expensive for little screws.

aaverett · « **Reply #63 on:** August 06, 2012, 11:43:43 AM »

Hey guys,

I am new to the forum -this thread helped me out a ton with the right hand control when I was switching out the handlebars on my 1974 Honda CB350F (pictured below). However, I still need to put back together the left handed control and it's been so long since I took it apart that I can't remember where all of the springs and ball bearings go. If someone could please describe to me and/or supply a couple photos of the inside, that would be great! Thank you in advance.

-Austin S. Averett

SohRon · « **Reply #64 on:** October 27, 2015, 05:14:43 PM »

Just a bump to bring this up out of obscurity! I've made some changes and corrections to the thread; hope you find it useful.

toycollector10 · « **Reply #65 on:** December 26, 2015, 10:38:20 PM »

This thread has helped me out a lot. Great work!

minimo · « **Reply #66 on:** January 07, 2016, 04:26:54 PM »

I purchased this switch from eBay unsure if it'd work or not:

Notice any parts missing from the push start mechanism?
According to the PO this is: "From a non running 1977 CB550F parts bike with 16325 miles" which should match my bike of the same year. However, I notice some subtle difference with the button mechanism.

Took it apart since the switch wasn't working and saw that Red/Yellow had been disconnected from the button so I soldered it back on. Tested continuity across all wires and from their connection points and everything checks.

Seems there's something missing from the push button assembly like a small flat conductive piece that I imagine when the button is pressed, the bearing glides across the surface of this flat piece that will make contact with Yellow/Red and Black (fulcrum) and upon release should spring back to Black/Red (and Black @ fulcrum). Is this correct? Is it safe to mimic a part if that can work? What does it look like?

Also, should the bearing rest on top of the spring that's recessed in the button, like so:

Or is this position normal:

HondaMan · « **Reply #67 on:** January 15, 2016, 06:30:45 PM »

Yes, there is a little "rocker contact" that toggles under the pushbutton when pressed. You may be able to make one, although even the OEM ones failed when they lost their temper (metal strength...) from the heating of them, caused most often by the rider installing a larger-than-OEM headlight wattage. This is also what makes the nylon switch bodies warp, losing the rocker and other bits.

If you can instead mount a small pushbutton in this hole and operate a relay (in the headlight) with it, using the relay's NC contacts to power the headlight and NC contact to operate the starter solenoid, you may have it operating sooner? It is not as elegant as SohRon's excellent tutorial (best I've ever seen!), but it will work.

minimo · « **Reply #68 on:** February 01, 2016, 02:16:53 PM »

Thanks, HondaMan! I figured there was some kind of rocker piece; seems pretty primitive. Anyone have any luck with a small push button/relay setup? Any links?

two40 · « **Reply #69 on:** February 06, 2016, 01:18:03 AM »

Quote from: RFogelsong on April 03, 2012, 09:29:29 PM

Any idea where I can get the "start" button switch assembly? I've tried david silver and yamiya with no luck, and from what I gather, the people on ebay seem to only sell the button and spring and not the plastic part in the middle of the assembly or back plate you need to solder the yellow/red to as well.

I didn't have the patience to wait for one to turn up so I made the start button internal assembly. It took me 3 attempts to get the bracket right and I had to sacrifice an old video card for the non-conductive wire holder part. The Dremel was my friend and patience paid off. All very satisfying and I must thank SohRon for the excellent original post.

knochgoon24 · « **Reply #70 on:** March 24, 2016, 05:50:17 PM »

I was able to fit a small momentary switch from Radioshack inside.

It's seen some rain, but it still seems to be working quite well.

My old switch had disintegrated.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #71 on:** March 24, 2016, 07:16:41 PM »

Nicely done!

That's gotta be at least as weatherproof as the stock arrangement, what with the switch having it's own housing inside the switch housing. Something like this would cap it off nicely (pun intended):

However, how much current is the switch rated for? You might want to consider adding a relay to drive the starter relay (yo dawg, we heard you liked relays...), although you may not need one because it's a light-duty circuit and the starter solenoid only draws a few amps at most I'm guessing during cranking.

mystic_1

joeyvans · « **Reply #72 on:** March 24, 2016, 07:38:10 PM »

Those are sweet! Where did you find that weatherproof button cap, Mystic?

I did the same thing as knochgoon24... easy install. Only had to dremel out a little bit of the housing to fit my pushbutton in there. But my momentary push button was only rated for something like 3 amps. I believe a 5 amp rating would be more ideal. For this reason, I will be ordering a relay from Hondaman. 99% of the time, I use the kicker... but it is nice to have the push button option.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #73 on:** March 24, 2016, 07:52:36 PM »

I literally just googled for "weatherproof button cap"

mystic_1

joeyvans · « **Reply #74 on:** March 24, 2016, 07:55:38 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on March 24, 2016, 07:52:36 PM

I literally just googled for "weatherproof button cap"

mystic_1

Huh! Who knew?

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Author Topic: Assembly and Discussion of the Right-hand Switch (a rebuilder's guide) (Read 99738 times)