Author Topic: Mongrel (Read 40830 times)

Damage Inc · « **Reply #125 on:** December 12, 2014, 06:39:04 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on December 03, 2014, 02:37:42 AM

All studs stretch, so that's not really an accurate concern. Warpage of the block or head are more likely to generate a leak than stretched studs at this point. The studs were installed and torqued into the block, then nuts to the studs at a design spec, which built into it the stretch factor. Once stretched, they stop stretching due to the limited torque.

Hard to be certain from your picture, but there seems to be some corrosion on the shafts of a few, plus some at the base. I'd replace them purely for durability concerns. At this point they're 40 years old, they're inexpensive parts, readily accessible, and critical for the proper operation of your motor. No other reasons matter in my judgement...

Thx cal, I think your spot on. I'm thinking of replacing the rod bolts as well.
I'm waiting for a replacement crank, should be here in a couple of weeks.
Next order is bearings(main and rod) cylinder studs, rod bolts, new case bolts and a oil seal kit. Better work through Christmas to afford these.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #126 on:** December 13, 2014, 12:40:59 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on December 12, 2014, 07:41:41 PM

If you're changing cranks, wait to order bearings until after you've verified tolerances with rods and journals (in case you didn't know this).

Hey thx, I would've forgot abou that and gone ahead and ordered some. Good call.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #127 on:** December 31, 2014, 10:10:48 PM »

My replacement crank arrived at the door, really happy with its condition. Much better than the original. Just need to get the dimension of the journals, cases and rods to see what bearings I need.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #128 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:36:36 PM »

Removed cylinder studs today

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #129 on:** January 05, 2015, 09:24:42 PM »

Nice and clean.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #130 on:** January 19, 2015, 10:55:50 PM »

Cases taped up and ready for paint.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #131 on:** January 20, 2015, 09:06:14 PM »

Painted and drying

Damage Inc · « **Reply #132 on:** April 03, 2015, 08:17:47 PM »

I sent my side covers off to the platers, to have the crappy chrome removed.

I had plans to paint them to match the crank cases. The plater decided to give them a polish, and now the conundrum is whether to go with the polish or paint them???

Trad · « **Reply #133 on:** April 03, 2015, 08:41:45 PM »

My vote is to leave them polished. That bottom end is looking great!

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #134 on:** April 04, 2015, 01:08:58 AM »

The polished covers look pretty damn good. They will oxidize, so you will have to keep them clean with a periodic polish, but they look nice.

rb550four · « **Reply #135 on:** April 05, 2015, 01:26:41 PM »

I use Mothers polish on the polished parts, keeps them looking good.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #136 on:** April 06, 2015, 10:34:57 PM »

Quote from: Trad on April 03, 2015, 08:41:45 PM

My vote is to leave them polished. That bottom end is looking great!

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on April 04, 2015, 01:08:58 AM

The polished covers look pretty damn good. They will oxidize, so you will have to keep them clean with a periodic polish, but they look nice.

Quote from: rb550four on April 05, 2015, 01:26:41 PM

I use Mothers polish on the polished parts, keeps them looking good.

Thx for your thoughts guys.
I originally planned the polished side covers for the project, but after doing the carby bowls realised how much work is involved with all the sanding of the different grade grits. I thought all black with s/s fastners. Which I think looks pretty cool. I'm thinking their polished now and most of the hard work is done, so I'll run with it.
I'm not sure if this link will work, but has anyone used this or similar product

Damage Inc · « **Reply #137 on:** April 07, 2015, 04:54:06 AM »

Sorry
I was trying to post a link to,
GripAce.com
Wondering how these would go.?

Damage Inc · « **Reply #138 on:** June 05, 2015, 10:38:29 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on April 07, 2015, 06:21:19 AM

If they're simple momentary switches, sure, they'll work. I didn't see a "controller" for them? You could also couple them with an m-unit from motogadget for a super trick and programmable solution.

I think they have their own controller, from what I read about them.

I've been trying to save enough coin, for the parts I need to to put the engine back together. I'm planning to get a shipment from David silvers. I realise I'm going to need parts for the forks and frame as well so I'll need to bundle to save shipping.

While I'm saving I've stripped the frame down to get it ready for powder coating. An expense I can cover at this time.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #139 on:** June 29, 2015, 05:32:43 AM »

Took frame, centre stand, kick stand and swing arm to the powdercoaters today.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #140 on:** June 29, 2015, 07:32:59 AM »

Quote from: Damage Inc on April 07, 2015, 04:54:06 AM

Sorry
I was trying to post a link to,
GripAce.com
Wondering how these would go.?

That's the company owned by the brother of stunter Jason Britton. It's my understanding that the switches have their own programmable controller.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #141 on:** June 30, 2015, 03:35:31 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on June 29, 2015, 07:32:59 AM

Quote from: Damage Inc on April 07, 2015, 04:54:06 AM
Sorry
I was trying to post a link to,
GripAce.com
Wondering how these would go.?

That's the company owned by the brother of stunter Jason Britton. It's my understanding that the switches have their own programmable controller.

I agree, they mention a controller on their website.

I got my powder coating back today. It's really encouraging to get some forward movement with this project. Feels like an assembly beginning, of sorts.

Question for those with multiple build experience, what is your opinion on assembly sequence? ie front end, rear end, engine, wiring. Any tips appreciated.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #142 on:** June 30, 2015, 07:41:12 AM »

it is easier to get the frame and engine mated at this stage when you can lay the motor on its side and the frame over it. Then get it into a roller.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #143 on:** July 05, 2015, 01:36:57 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on June 30, 2015, 05:45:22 AM

Yup, gotta do all those things.

Personally, I prefer to install the engine in the frame first. I assemble the front end partially, then lift the neck, slip the front end in, then do the same with the rear. Then it's a roller. I save wiring until last.

Make sure you clean the powder coat off for some bare metal grounds to the frame.

The service manual states the rear hanger mount as the earth grounding point.
Do you have other points in mind also?

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on June 30, 2015, 07:41:12 AM

it is easier to get the frame and engine mated at this stage when you can lay the motor on its side and the frame over it. Then get it into a roller.

I thought the engine would be next. Here are the parts I've got to order before I can begin the assembly.
Main bearings
Big end bearings
Conrod bolts
Head studs
Oil seal kit
Piston pins and clips
While I'm making an order, to save postage. I need.
Fork tubes
Fork seals and clip
Chain
Parts I've already purchased
Top end gasket set then a full gasket set
New Pistons
Replacement crank
New valves
Dyna s ignition
Carbys rebuilt
Stainless fasteners
Parts that might need to be replaced, now that I've gone this far.
Gearbox bearings
Primary chain
Cam chain
Sprockets

I'm sure there are parts that I haven't considered.
So if anyone can see any obvious ones missing. Give me the tip..??

Damage Inc · « **Reply #144 on:** July 05, 2015, 05:15:57 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on July 05, 2015, 03:41:43 AM

New rings?
Definitely want new cam and primary chains.
Not sure why you'd need con rod bolts?

As for bare metal grounds, definitely at the rear hangar, but depending upon how you wire it, if you have painted the bars, etc., then you should be prepared to for some other bare metal spots along the backbone or trees for proper grounds. You can clean these when you decide where they should be.

Thx calj,
Yes, didn't mention that I've got new rings to.
Not sure if it was advice from the forum or elsewhere, some one said I should consider replacing the conrod bolts also. My problem is that coupled with my lack of mechanical experience and the abundance of advice and opinions. I tend to take it all onboard.

bwaller · « **Reply #145 on:** July 05, 2015, 05:19:59 PM »

The upgraded rod bolts & nuts are not expensive and are a bit of insurance especially if you don't know the engines history.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #146 on:** July 05, 2015, 07:45:48 PM »

Quote from: bwaller on July 05, 2015, 05:19:59 PM

The upgraded rod bolts & nuts are not expensive and are a bit of insurance especially if you don't know the engines history.

I'm hoping that once this engine is reassembled, that I won't be pulling in apart anytime soon.
So I'm prepared to spend the extra now for a bit of insurance.
The only history I have been able to determine is that a PO got the cam modified to a mild street profile. So they were in search of extra HP, so possibly gave it more of a flogging.

Damage Inc · « **Reply #147 on:** August 12, 2015, 02:14:51 AM »

I removed the spokes from my front rim today.
I'm planning to powdercoat the rims. I had planned to pull the hub apart to polish and paint, I just had the thought that perhaps I could do this without dismantling the hub. ( save time or perfect time to replace parts. i.e bearings)

What's the wiser move, to pull apart or leave assembled? ( it appears in good order )

Has anyone had any experience with painted spokes? ( durability, longevity)

On the subject of front brake disc, is there any performance increase or decrease when the disc is drilled?
Is there a more effective drilling pattern to another?

Any help,opinions or thoughts appreciated.

Damage Inc

Damage Inc · « **Reply #148 on:** August 13, 2015, 02:23:49 PM »

Quote from: calj737 on August 12, 2015, 04:19:59 AM

It's always best to disassemble a hub if your painting or powder costing it, but simply polishing does not necessitate this.

I've seen folks powder coat their spokes, some have rattle can sprayed them. It's all in the prep...

Drilling a disc does improve wet braking as it provides an escape for the moisture that is otherwise being caught between the pad and disc. It does also (though neglible) reduce the weight of the rotor which promotes slightly better handling (not really measurable in a single disc application). He's to keep the pattern sensible. Too many holes and you will crack the rotor. Check the Services Offered section, there's a few listing for this service.

Thx calj.
I'll go with the disassembled hubs, as I'll get them powdercoated.
I'm going to paint the spokes as I think powder will be too thick and give me grief in the reassembly.
Jury still out on the rotor.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #149 on:** August 13, 2015, 02:52:45 PM »

I wonder if powdercoating spokes post assembly might require one to re-true the wheels?

News:

Author Topic: Mongrel (Read 40830 times)