Topic: The front wheel spindle clamp - knowledge test

[70CB750]

Does anybody know, why is the cb750 front wheel spindle installed with the gap and why does the gap have to be in front?

Hondaman:

>>...make sure the axle caps (on the ends of the forks) are installed properly.  They should be flat and even at the back side with a (parallel) gap on the front side. Tighten the rear sides first, then the fronts. The caps are DIRECTIONAL: they have a HI and LOW side to them. The gap side must be in front.<<<

[flybox1]

sheer force and pressure would be towards the rear (no gap) under heavy breaking.

[MoMo]

According to the 400 shop manual the arrow points to the front leaving the gap at the rear, tighten front first then back. That was standard set up procedure back in the day...Larry

[MCRider]

This is one of those issues without resolve. With all due respect to HondaMan, there are scores of pictures in manuals showing the gap in the rear. There are many models with the arrow. As we all know, arrows point front, and that puts the gap in the rear.

Far be it from me to say a manual is always right. I have post it notes on the pages of my clymers marking the incorrect items.

I have personally decided to do it some way and never tell anyone.  I also never take a picture that will disclose the way i do it.  Unless you come here and see my bike. 

[KC_Northstar]

I just looked in both the Honda shop manual for the CB750 and the Clymer manual and there was no
mention of this in either.

[xnoahx]

I put arrows to the front and gap in the rear

[KC_Northstar]

My front wheel is currently off my bike so I just went out to the garage and took a look.  My CB750 K2 does not have arrows on the spindle clamps.  The clamps do have the gap though.

[seanbarney41]

also, I see an "f" on some of them...always thought it was for front?

[MCRider]

My front wheel is currently off my bike so I just went out to the garage and took a look.  My CB750 K2 does not have arrows on the spindle clamps.  The clamps do have the gap though.

Did you notice where the gap was before you disassembled? Doubtful that was original, just curious.

[KC_Northstar]

"Did you notice where the gap was before you disassembled? Doubtful that was original, just curious."

No,  I had no idea they went on a certain way.  I just took them off and sat them on my bench.  And who
knows if the PO had them off before and how they went back on.  I would like to know which way is correct
though for when I reinstall them.

[MrGardman]

When I was working at the Honda dealership years ago, the clamps were always installed with the gap to the rear. I am old but if my memory serves me right, I think the set up instructions for new bikes coming in actually called for that gap to be at the rear always.

[MCRider]

"Did you notice where the gap was before you disassembled? Doubtful that was original, just curious."

No,  I had no idea they went on a certain way.  I just took them off and sat them on my bench.  And who
knows if the PO had them off before and how they went back on.  I would like to know which way is correct
though for when I reinstall them.

Main thing for sure is, tighten the tall end of the clamp first and completely. Then draw down the shortend to proper torque. That's one thing. If you reverse the procedure it won't be right.

As to the gap, it goes ..........





















































   

[WhyNot2]

ooooooooooppppppppppppsssssss.........................


I've had my front wheels on and off several times.......and I did not know this.


Guess I'd better go check this out as soon as I can.........darn.

[LesterPiglet]

I always have the gap at the rear, just like the handlebar clamps.

[MoMo]

When I was working at the Honda dealership years ago, the clamps were always installed with the gap to the rear. I am old but if my memory serves me right, I think the set up instructions for new bikes coming in actually called for that gap to be at the rear always.

That is the same thing we did on every bike that was sold, probably thousands back in the 70s at the three dealerships I worked had the gap at the rear.  Front was tightened first then the rear was secured.  If you have a 400F set up manual see p.11 or page 13 of the 77 addendum...Larry

[TwoTired]

There must be a gap so the clamp can apply full pressure.  The gap always goes toward the rear, out of the way of oncoming rain, dirt, grime, bugs, etc.  Same is true for bar clamps, and control group clamps onto the bar, and for the same reasons.

Cheers,

[70CB750]

Hmmm. There are clamps holding bearings in the crankcase too - afaik no gap there and i am sure the full force is applied there.

[Bailgang]

Hmmm. There are clamps holding bearings in the crankcase too - afaik no gap there and i am sure the full force is applied there.

Yeah but they're not clamping the crank like the other clamps clamp the axle, handle bar and so on. The main caps and rod caps are basically keeping their bearings concentric with the crank journals.

[LesterPiglet]

Hmmm. There are clamps holding bearings in the crankcase too - afaik no gap there and i am sure the full force is applied there.

Completely different application.

I'm wondering why there is a gap? Expansion? I think if it was for compensation for expansion the gaps could have been a lot closer.

[MCRider]

Hmmm. There are clamps holding bearings in the crankcase too - afaik no gap there and i am sure the full force is applied there.

Completely different application.

I'm wondering why there is a gap? Expansion? I think if it was for compensation for expansion the gaps could have been a lot closer.

See #15 above.

[LesterPiglet]

Sounds silly to me. The gaps don't need to be that extreme.

[70CB750]

Now of course the important question is what oil do you use in the bike with said gap under the clamp 

[TwoTired]

Hmmm. There are clamps holding bearings in the crankcase too - afaik no gap there and i am sure the full force is applied there.

The crankcase bearing "clamps" (actually they are retainers) only hold the bearing shells in place and very little pressure is applied the bearing shells.  There is no force applied the shaft, which must be allowed to turn freely.

Not so with wheel axle, handle bars, etc.  The shaft is prevented from turning in the latter cases.  You do not want this action for main and rod bearings, so it is an improper comparison.

Don't mistake superficial appearance for functional application.

Cheers,

[CycleRanger]

From the manual.

[Whaleman]

What manual CycleRanger?