Topic: 1976 CB550F - making it good, one step at a time

[flatlander]

thanks! you're right, it's worth giving it a try as it can't really do any harm and if it doesn't work out long term it can always be replaced.

[flatlander]

Been there a couple times, I like Chi-Town.

i like it, too. just the sheer size of the place surprises me every time anew.

[flatlander]

so here we go: forkbrace is installed!







tkat prescribed a "spirited ride" after installation so that everything could settle and be re-tightened. i promptly obliged.

first impressions after the shake-down on my local back-country twisties:
there’s definitely a loss of comfort as you feel everything more directly. once you get used to this, the frontend feels nice and tight. more precise, the vagueness that previously provided some cushioning is gone. the bike feels a lot more confident.
went out on the highway after this to take some fast sweepers. previously these brought the bike to its limits as i could feel how things twisted out of alignment. none of that now - it’s much more stable and controlled.

so yes, the brace works well and i’m very happy

i'm also happy with the looks. it's subtle enough not to look like some clamped-on modern-time addition (which, of course, it is) and still somehow adds to the appearance.





then the interesting bit.
tkat wanted my shake-down ride to be spirited. spirited it was - so spirited that i pushed the fork together once on a sharp bump after which i started losing brake fluid 

turns out the brace hit the bolt holding the brake lines and brought a crush washer out of alignment. dammit. but nothing too bad, a bit of readjusting and tightening fixed it.

here the nick in the brace:


and the offending parts:


the last picture also shows how there's some additional distance between the fender and brace. i discussed this with tkat and will get rid of it by grinding down the "legs" on the x-bar, making it flat. that will create additional clearance between the x-bar and the brake hoses mounting.

this might already be enough to avoid contact. if not, i plan to replace the brake hoses anyway and may be able to fit them higher at the same time. last resort we can drill some holes in the x-bar if still necessary.

so we'll see. this is nothing dramatic as i would not use the full travel of the forks on every ride so can use the bike as is if i'm not going too crazy but will fix it for the future.

[Stev-o]

Good report.  I'll be getting the Tarozzi for my 550

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Good report.  I'll be getting the Tarozzi for my 550

It isn't so subtle but I bet it helps improve the spindly front end. I thought Tkat wasn't making these for the 550?

Steve-o. The Tarozzi will not fit on the 74-76 500 and 550 models and allow you to use the standard fender mounts. You either need to bolt the fender onto the bottom of the Tarozzi brace or run fenderless OR swap the fork legs out for longer ones off a 77-78 550.

[flatlander]

stev-o: i would have gotten the tarozzi if my '76 forklegs were not too short to support it.

crf: tkat is making them now, see here http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=136643.0
in the overall picture, i think it fits in pretty well. but that's a personal opinion of course.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I sent out an email to tkat to find out the particulars.  Its a trade off between the lower profile Tarozzi brace, which would require a complete fork rebuild with new fork lowers, or the tkat brace.

[Stev-o]

Good report.  I'll be getting the Tarozzi for my 550

Steve-o. The Tarozzi will not fit on the 74-76 500 and 550 models and allow you to use the standard fender mounts. You either need to bolt the fender onto the bottom of the Tarozzi brace or run fenderless OR swap the fork legs out for longer ones off a 77-78 550.

Thx for the info, I have read that about it and seen Goddfreys solution. I bought my 550 cafe fenderless, it's a sunny day only bike and gets limited miles, so it will remain that way.
I just don't like the appearance of the tkat brace, no offense Flatlander. 

[flatlander]

that's fine stev-o. it's all just down to personal taste, can't argue that.

[strynboen]

 think it work fine...but looks like made of LEGO..from billund in denmark.....but if you machined 1 cm off the height it vil look better..and not crash that dubbel heigh banjo bolt..in stock fig  there are more space..as the banjo are half height

[flatlander]

ha ha, like the lego comment 
i can get 6mm off easily by removing the 'legs' of the x-bar. see if that's enough. if not then in need to chop in other places.

[flatlander]

quick update on the brace:
got those 'legs' machined off the cross bar. distance to the fender is now down to 1mm.  there hasn't been any contact since with the banjo so i think in normal use it will be fine. still need to do a proper test, though.

a couple of weeks ago also this thing arrived, a relay for the start button from hondaman.


i use a 60/55 bulb in the head light which is quite a bit more then stock. i like the light output and as i use the bike almost only for longer rides it supports it fine. but apparently, it can fry the starter button over time which the relay should prevent.

now that it's finally summer i've been spending more time riding then wrenching, waiting for a couple of rainy days install all the new stuff.

[strynboen]

are you not use your kontakt for headlight..to cut the headlight at start..or is it for take the main power of the, off  on off ,safty kontakt..or are it for to get full jouse for the coils...you build a relæ in...??

i have got some of this  relæ types fail in the years..think 4 or5 in the last 20 years...most on my ford granada..but also on bikes..and scotters..have just thanged the start relæ at my daugthers littel yamaha
.so have droppet the relæ idea..it gives not the ekstra safty...but more veak links to be worryed over...

[flatlander]

i had a conversation with hondaman about this. the headlight is powered via the start button and the contacts in the button are not very strong. if you use a 45/40w bulb or lower it's fine but with a higher wattage bulb, the start button can get fried over time. see also here: http://sohc4shop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=51. that's according to his experience, at least.
as i use a 60/55w bulb it sounded like a good idea, to prevent the button from damage.

you are right that it introduces another element that can fail. if that  happens i can just rip out the relay again, and connect the headlight directly to the black wire. it won't cut out during start then but will circumnavigate the start button. it's something that can be done pretty quickly, so not much risk if it doesn't work out.

[strynboen]

the euro models have the buttom to turn on off the main light..usa modells have not...it shud not be needet to komplicate your euro model vith hondamamns us mods.(. thaurth they have  a light breake cirkulaut vhen the buttom are pressed..from factory??)..both my cbx and cb 550 and 500t can all cut light by the handel shvitch

[flatlander]

yes i have a switch to turn off the headlights. wasn't aware of there being a difference in the wiring of the US and EU models. but if i understand correctly, the issue is not being able to turn off the lights while starting, but  that the current to the headlights runs through the start button during normal running.

but please correct me if i'm wrong. i may need to study the electrical diagram better which will make my head explode. electrical stuff is definitely not my strong side

[flatlander]

well strynboen, looks like you were right after all. when i compare the wires in my headlight bucket with the diagram that came with the relay, they don't match up. i wasn't aware the connections were so different between US and EU models. learning the hard way here 

[strynboen]

that relæ kosts 100 kroner..and you can use it to get 100 %jouce at the coils.
..just make a vire from the ekstra fuse in the rack...put it on 30/31i think it is....and take the vire ,that normaly feed the coils...and konnekt it to( pull the relæs pull coil)...and to frame.then vhen turn the key..the relæ snaps. and give 30/31 direkt kontakt...and you have full battery volts at the ciols..it vill boost the ignision..and put full 13 volts to the coils..and not the 9-11 volts thats normaly fights through the safty stop...and main ignision kontakts(key)...
its the only relæ fix i vill do on my bike..(.easy to redo if the relæ dies)...

[flatlander]

thanks for the tip! that sounds good.
there is no 31 on the relay. i think then it should be 30 to the fuse and 87 to the coils?
then i guess 85 to the frame. and what about 86?



when you say "extra fuse", do you mean the reserve 15A fuse? i probably misunderstand something as that one is not connected, so nothing would come through it.

sorry i'm pretty bad with electrics as you may already have guessed.

[strynboen]

hey..in this relæs..in and aut is not so importment..it vork both vays...
85 and 86 are the pull coil..it just need power through...one etc 85 to ground(negative)...and 86 konnekt it to the power vire to feed the ciols( black)

then it aktivate vhen the key are turned,,,and make brelæ konneksion between 30 and 87.
.(87 a is a rest konnektion)power off..)
there must be made a jumper in the fuse box..or make a ekstra red vire from battery positive to fuse box. to feed the ekstra fuse(on some modells).as you like..but it good to spread the load at more fuses..even you not pull more power then stock

i have all BOSCH numbers code..but must find my usb..

[flatlander]

ok i think i got it. my fuse box has the extra fuses. makes sense to connect one and use it for the coils.
that's a nice wiring diagram. easier to read than the ones in the manual. i printed it out and hope to get this done on the weekend.

i appreciate your help!

[flatlander]

stryn, the wire from the safety stop switch to the coils is black/white in the diagram.
do i not need to use that one, instead of black? then it would be:

85 - ground
86 - black/white wire from safety switch
30 - red wire from battery (via spare 15A fuse)
87 - black/white wire to coils

if i understand this right (big if!) then when safety switch is on 'run', 85/86 would be powered and pull the relay coil. 30 would connect to 87 and provide the coils with direct power from the battery.

does this sound correct?

[strynboen]

yes that s saund like i vill have done it.
.and yes black/white are ignision.
..the black are power for light/horn / and more..it goes  hot over the key..i think..been som e month since i have redone  my 500 t..and there are some smal differenses in this 70 hondaes.(

.start buttom are made in 3 different vays  some feed positive to solonid..and somefeed negative to solonid..and one konnekted to light...cutt light whel start engine are used)..and some has a safty start vith a diode/konnekted to neutral light..so a lot of konfusion and vrong diragrams..and if the year of your bike not are 100%..or mixed in years..it must be kontrolled ekstra before reparers are done..

[flatlander]

great. the black/white wire to the coils on the bike seems to match with what's shown in the diagram. that gives me some confidence but yes, i'll check carefully to not mess things up.
i realise that i need to buy some cables and connectors as i want to use the right colours. so won't be doing it this weekend after all.

thanks again for your patience, tusind takk!

[flatlander]

installed the neoprene points cover gasket and headlight washers i got from crush.

fits well on the points cover



the PO put some black stuff on the inside of the cover. it's kind of hardened. no idea what that's meant to be for? anyway i left it as i can't see it doing any harm.

also the headlight washers fit nicely.





these are much better than the old dry crap that was stuck in there. they're flexible enough to let the headlight be adjusted without having to loosen the bolts.



as i had the headlight open i went over all the contacts in the bucket. cleaning all connections is on my list of things to do on a rainy day, might as well start here. this is a labour of love that takes a lot of patience (of which i don't have too much!). also straightened out that chaos of wires a bit.

found this little brush in a local hardware store which really helped with the female bullet connectors. on the male ones i just used some sand paper.



then closed the headlight up again which was much easier now that the wires were not all bunched up in one place behind it. to be continued on another rainy day, or during winter...