Author Topic: 1972 CB500K - Resto-Mod (Read 44327 times)

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #125 on:** May 24, 2015, 01:24:31 PM »

Problem solved. I pulled the clutch cover and took out the clutch basket. The snap ring that holds everything in place must not have seated in it's groove when I put it together before because it was out. Fixed that, re-oiled the clutch plates while I had it out, then reassembled everything. I now have a working clutch.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #126 on:** May 24, 2015, 07:20:50 PM »

Clutch and throttle installed plus most of the wiring done. Cleaned up and mounted the chainguard as well, had to wet sand it and hit it very lightly on a buffing wheel to polish it back up, finished it off with some black trim protectant.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #127 on:** June 01, 2015, 06:27:48 PM »

Few small updates. I got some mini-gauges and a mount from Dime City Cycles. The mount is made to bolt right onto later CB models so I had to fabricate a bracket (with my dad's help) to fit it onto my triple tree.

I think I've got the angle figured out for the right brake caliper, I'll try setting up just this one for a test to see if everything works right before I try both at once.

Lastly, I think I've replaced just about every piece of chrome that was on the bike. I love the look of these old horns, I found a used one in perfect condition and saved a heap.

Tews19 · « **Reply #128 on:** June 02, 2015, 05:53:38 AM »

member Godfrey told me you do not need the long spring for the caliper bracket. if that is a problem remove it.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #129 on:** June 02, 2015, 07:44:19 AM »

I don't think it will be an issue but thanks for the info Tews. The spring had close to no tension on it until I put the lock nut in. I had to run it on the opposite side to keep the caliper bracket in line. Now the spring has about the same snap back as the left hand side.

I've actually got Godffrey's speedo drive and I just grabbed a couple of his pistons too.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #130 on:** June 07, 2015, 06:36:51 PM »

Got a good amount done over the weekend. Cleaned out both brake calipers, replaced the seals and pistons and repainted them. Got them mounted up on the bike with the fender and bled them. Brand new master cylinder along with new stainless brake hoses and bleeders.

I got everything run through the the headlight bucket and attached that.

Also finally got the bike off of the jack and installed my exhaust.

riverfever · « **Reply #131 on:** June 07, 2015, 06:50:28 PM »

Damn that looks good. Love the way the brakes turned out.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #132 on:** June 07, 2015, 07:24:06 PM »

really nice work so far

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #133 on:** June 08, 2015, 10:22:05 AM »

Thanks guys! Next step is sorting out that mess of wires in the headlight bucket.

MickB · « **Reply #134 on:** June 09, 2015, 02:23:36 PM »

Great job OTP

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #135 on:** June 14, 2015, 09:09:35 AM »

Ok, so I've got everything wired up in the headlight bucket but I can't get the neutral light to come on. I did the obvious; checked I was actually in neutral, re-cleaned the connections and changed the light bulb. I pulled the left side cover back off to take a look at the neutral switch itself and I really don't know what I'm looking at. I cleaned the connection there and still nothing.

Anyone know how to check this thing?

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #136 on:** June 14, 2015, 09:27:24 AM »

Here it is if anyone sees anything off.

The screw on the right seems to have a few positions you can get it in, moving it back and forth I can get the light to pop on temporarily but then it won't stay on.

MickB · « **Reply #137 on:** June 14, 2015, 11:37:39 AM »

OTP I found this, it might help.
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=44687.0

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #138 on:** June 14, 2015, 01:01:00 PM »

Thanks Mick, I think I got it. I had to pull the side cover like 5 times in a row and play with it. Ended up taking part of it out and cleaning it more then adjusting it several times. It was a #$%* but appears to be working now.

riverfever · « **Reply #139 on:** June 14, 2015, 03:47:11 PM »

Mine did the same thing. I had to pull off that piece that rotates and clean that contact point real well. There's a little ear on the back of that piece that you gotta be careful with so it doesn't break off.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #140 on:** June 14, 2015, 05:22:32 PM »

That's exactly what I ended up doing Chris. Seems to be working now. I also got everything all connected and buttoned up in the headlight. I went with dual filament bulbs up front in the turn signals, hopefully these won't be too much for the charging system. The Speedo and Tach are both LED and the headlight is an H4 so they shouldn't be drawing as much as their stock counterparts.

After getting everything hooked up I wheeled the bike outside and hooked up a temporary gas line. Looks like I'll have to pull the carbs again because the #2 carb is pissing fuel. Not sure if the float height's off or if somethings sticking since their cleaning at this point was about a year ago. I'll have to try to bench synch them to the best of my ability. It started up no problem though. Just needed some choke and a few pushes of the starter and it fired right up. Doesn't sound half bad for me not touching the valves or points yet. For some reason the oil light is staying on though. I just filled it completely so I know that's not the issue. I guess I'll be going back under the left side cover to see what's going on there.

This video is from after it had been running a few minutes, I pulled the fuel line and was just trying to use up some of the residual left in the carbs. All in all it was a pretty productive day.

Tews19 · « **Reply #141 on:** June 15, 2015, 11:58:27 AM »

Nicely done sir! Don't pull the carbs. Simply remove the bowl. See if the float is hung up on anything. Then do the clear tube method. Also you may have a crack in the overflow brass tube. Just something to check when you remove the bowl.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #142 on:** June 15, 2015, 01:00:32 PM »

Thanks! Last time I had these on the bike was about a year ago, right after I cleaned them, and it was the number 3 carb that was just dribbling. That bowls overflow was cracked and I ended up replacing it. From what I remember the number 2 was fine then.

This time gas was rushing out of it as soon as it went in. It would stop for a few seconds and then start over.

I drained the carbs after the last time they were on the bike and they just sat there for a year. I didn't anticipate taking this long.

I'll try pulling the bowl off first and checking everything out before I take the whole rack off, hopefully the float is just hung up.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #143 on:** June 19, 2015, 06:22:46 PM »

I ended up pulling my carbs off again, it was too tight trying to do anything with them on the bike. I made myself a float height gauge to set the floats at 22mm. They were all lower than they should have been by a few millimeters.

After setting the height I put them back together and did a clear tube test. They all look like they're roughly the same height now.
#1

#2

#3

#4

Seems to have fixed the leak from the overflow tube too.

Anyone have any opinion on how these look before I put them back on the bike?

riverfever · « **Reply #144 on:** June 19, 2015, 09:34:01 PM »

I'll let more experienced eyes weigh in on 2-4 but 1 seems a lot lower than those. Or is it just the camera?

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #145 on:** June 19, 2015, 10:02:17 PM »

I think it's just the camera on that one but I'll double check it tomorrow to be sure. 2-4 are all close up and 1's from a little further away and slightly above so it's kind of deceiving.

riverfever · « **Reply #146 on:** June 19, 2015, 10:13:31 PM »

I get it. When I was taking pictures and sending them to Cal I felt like I was working the swimsuit edition but it coulda been all the gas fumes. I think 2-4 look really close to where mine ended up being and it helped out a whole lot.

Project's looking really nice.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #147 on:** June 20, 2015, 12:30:27 PM »

Thanks for the input Chris and Cal, i remeasured the #1 carb on a more level surface and it looked pretty similar to the others. That was the only one that wasn't really plumb when I did it as you can see in the first picture from before (I spilled gas and then relocated for 2-4)

I bench sync'd them with a 1/8 drill bit and they were only slight off from each other and then I hooked them back up to the bike. I have a vacuum gauge I can use to dial them in later.

Everything seems to be good now, no leaks or overflow at all. I don't know why I didn't do this in the first place, it would have saved me the hassle of disconnecting everything.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #148 on:** June 20, 2015, 03:50:31 PM »

Oil pressure light is fixed. The wire going to it had been taped up by a previous owner and had a new crack in the casing of it grounding against the block. When I undid the electrical tape the wire came in two and then again it broke apart at where it was cracking.

I pulled the wiring out as far as i could and stripped the oil wire back some, soldered in a new wire with a new eyelet, shrink wrapped over it and I'm back in business. Oil light went right out as soon as I fired it up.

onetruepunk87 · « **Reply #149 on:** June 28, 2015, 02:44:37 PM »

Switched out my points and condensers for an electronic ignition. This was incredibly easy to install, completely plug and play. It's a Daytona Ignition, It plugs in to the same spot as the old points plate wires plus one wire that piggy backs on to the rear brake switch's black wire.

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Author Topic: 1972 CB500K - Resto-Mod (Read 44327 times)