Author Topic: My 1975 cb 750 Build (Read 19582 times)

PPG9944 · « **Reply #75 on:** August 12, 2015, 07:11:05 PM »

Getting on with getting the electrical components mocked up before I get at wiring this whole monster. I may or may not be putting it off slightly because I have no idea what I'm doing but oh well.

Got the front turn signals mounted. Stock Honda CB stems with stock honda CB turn signals. I think it keeps everything nice tight and narrow.

.

Also.... this showed up!

..and mounted. Still gonna mess around with depth and angle but I think it looks pretty clean.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #76 on:** August 12, 2015, 09:02:21 PM »

Love that Koso TNT gauge. I've got my eye on one for my next 550/650 build.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #77 on:** August 13, 2015, 04:26:14 AM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on August 12, 2015, 09:02:21 PM

Love that Koso TNT gauge. I've got my eye on one for my next 550/650 build.

I've heard that the tach can be a pain to wire up but I guess I'll find out for myself.

Still need to mount the ignition coils and rear running/ stop lights and then start building the electrical system.

evanphi · « **Reply #78 on:** August 13, 2015, 08:09:39 AM »

Quote from: PPG9944 on August 13, 2015, 04:26:14 AM

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on August 12, 2015, 09:02:21 PM
Love that Koso TNT gauge. I've got my eye on one for my next 550/650 build.

I've heard that the tach can be a pain to wire up but I guess I'll find out for myself.

Still need to mount the ignition coils and rear running/ stop lights and then start building the electrical system.

Usually they are fired off the signal from the points. Very easy to wire up.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 17, 2015, 07:06:10 PM »

Quote from: evanphi on August 13, 2015, 08:09:39 AM

Quote from: PPG9944 on August 13, 2015, 04:26:14 AM
Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on August 12, 2015, 09:02:21 PM
Love that Koso TNT gauge. I've got my eye on one for my next 550/650 build.

I've heard that the tach can be a pain to wire up but I guess I'll find out for myself.

Still need to mount the ignition coils and rear running/ stop lights and then start building the electrical system.

Usually they are fired off the signal from the points. Very easy to wire up.

I am hoping that is the case. Im running coils off a 2001 Honda magna. Still need to be mounted up but Im getting close to being able to start wiring the bike.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #80 on:** August 17, 2015, 07:07:06 PM »

Also got this little win today. Mounted up the fuse box off the 2001 honda magna. This should work nicely.

evanphi · « **Reply #81 on:** August 18, 2015, 07:23:13 AM »

Are you using a magnet for the speedometer? Or are you using a cable/sensor off the original hub-mounted speedo drive?

If the latter, check out the link in my sig for how to calculate the input circumference!

PPG9944 · « **Reply #82 on:** August 18, 2015, 07:41:20 PM »

Quote from: evanphi on August 18, 2015, 07:23:13 AM

Are you using a magnet for the speedometer? Or are you using a cable/sensor off the original hub-mounted speedo drive?

If the latter, check out the link in my sig for how to calculate the input circumference!

Right on sir! I'll have to definitely cross that bridge once I get to it.

I mounted my horn tonight underneath the oil cooler. I'm hoping the oil cooler will not generate too much heat to bother the horn.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #83 on:** August 22, 2015, 03:35:45 PM »

This stupidly simple solution took entirely way too long to figure out. BUT, I now have coils with interchangeable wires and new Spark plug caps!

Gonna go pick up some mirrors soon and then the spacing of that will determine where i mount my start button and kill switch.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #84 on:** August 25, 2015, 07:03:38 PM »

I like version 2 a lot more. Rubber stopper ground down with this little flange nut that has these locking teeth

And mounted

As it stands the left handlebar is going to be slightly longer than the right side but the mirror clears the lever so I'm ok with it.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #85 on:** August 30, 2015, 08:28:18 PM »

Got a couple of things done today. I think this tail light is almost buttoned up. Just gotta conceal the rear wires somehow. I picked up some LED light at autozone and but out the red lens and then glued it to a 52mm clear filter for the lens.

Got a starter switch off a kawasaki Ninja. Fits perfect between the throttle and master cylinder perch.

Decided to paint the brake rotor carriers before I started messing around with wheel spacer and brake shim redo. This will make the front end look a little heavier and more awesome! Used gloss black engine paint that withstands temps up to like 500 degrees something

PPG9944 · « **Reply #86 on:** August 31, 2015, 04:38:04 PM »

Calj,

I've read up on these rotors from other folks who run these rotors on race bikes. I feel confident in the structural integrity of these rotors.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #87 on:** August 31, 2015, 04:46:21 PM »

PPG9944,

Cal was referring to the bolts that connect the rotor to the carrier (not the rotor assembly to the hub or the rotor itself). His concern was whether you were using a strong enough bolt to mount the drilled rotor to the carrier -- so that shearing forces do not cause the rotor to come loose.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #88 on:** August 31, 2015, 05:06:39 PM »

Quote from: CB750 Cafe Racer Fan on August 31, 2015, 04:46:21 PM

PPG9944,

Cal was referring to the bolts that connect the rotor to the carrier (not the rotor assembly to the hub or the rotor itself). His concern was whether you were using a strong enough bolt to mount the drilled rotor to the carrier -- so that shearing forces do not cause the rotor to come loose.

Right, I understood that, but yea I still feel good about it.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #89 on:** September 19, 2015, 10:34:24 AM »

Going to try to use this regulator rectifier off a 2001 magna as just the rectifier instead of the stock unit.

Compared the 2 wiring diagrams though and the rectifier on the stock set up has a ground wire. This one does not. Can I use the wire from the regulator section of the unit as a ground wire?

evanphi · « **Reply #90 on:** September 19, 2015, 11:51:36 AM »

Any ground wire will work. They all go back to the same place... the frame.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #91 on:** September 19, 2015, 12:26:15 PM »

I'm really hoping this works as the rectifier haha. I'm pretty lost with this wiring stuff. I'll grasp it eventually

evanphi · « **Reply #92 on:** September 20, 2015, 05:17:22 PM »

You know you can get a solid state reg/rec combo unit that is wired for the stock harness?

http://4into1.com/ricks-motorsport-electrics-honda-rectifier-regulator-combo-cb350-cb400-cb500-cb550-cb750/

PPG9944 · « **Reply #93 on:** September 20, 2015, 05:59:47 PM »

Quote from: evanphi on September 20, 2015, 05:17:22 PM

You know you can get a solid state reg/rec combo unit that is wired for the stock harness?

http://4into1.com/ricks-motorsport-electrics-honda-rectifier-regulator-combo-cb350-cb400-cb500-cb550-cb750/

I have seen that before but I had this unit lying around. Trying to keep the costs down and get creative is what I'm after really. I'm hoping it works. If it doesnt I'll be able to wire the stock unit in.

Any good resources on how to build a wire harness?

PPG9944 · « **Reply #94 on:** October 11, 2015, 04:36:05 PM »

This makes me proud.

Still lots more to do, routing and rerouting wires but it's slowly making sense.

PPG9944 · « **Reply #95 on:** October 25, 2015, 05:44:17 AM »

YEAAA! Running lights and brake lights function!

PPG9944 · « **Reply #96 on:** June 04, 2017, 05:36:36 PM »

It's been a while. Life happens. Minor update though. I got it to start!

The start button engages whether the kill switch is in the on or off position. Anyone have any idea what I did wrong.

The red and yellow wire runs to the start button directly from the battery. The red and green wire goes out from that into the clutch switch.

The common power runs into the kill switch and runs out into the black and white wires which hooks into the coils

Any ideas?

Restoration Fan · « **Reply #97 on:** June 05, 2017, 04:09:08 AM »

Quote from: calj737 on June 04, 2017, 07:50:12 PM

That's normal. It's the BLK/WHT wire that runs it of the RUN button to the coils (delivering 12v) that is effected by the KILL/RUN position. START will spin the solenoid as long as you have 12v in the battery

What he said. The start button should go whenever you press it. However, the engine should not run (ie no spark) unless the kill switch is in the run position. Instead, you'll just hear it turning over & over without firing.

SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #98 on:** June 05, 2017, 08:24:47 AM »

This is also a good way to check oil flow before the first firing of the motor (running the start button with the kill switch on).

PPG9944 · « **Reply #99 on:** June 05, 2017, 03:46:38 PM »

You guys are brilliant! Thank you! I definitely did not even consider that as an option. I just checked real quick and the kill switch does indeed kill spark when in the off position. I'm used to my shadow where the starter won't crank when the kill switch is off.

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Author Topic: My 1975 cb 750 Build (Read 19582 times)