Author Topic: frame damage oh no (Read 13696 times)

Mantree · « **Reply #25 on:** October 20, 2015, 10:12:26 PM »

Well I had the frame fixed and have been riding it but I had the clutch cable snap last week and just got the new one so it will be going on soon and I think I finally have a line on a cable to use with the forward controls so I can put them on

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754 · « **Reply #26 on:** October 20, 2015, 11:40:25 PM »

Use your broken clutch cable , on the forward control. You just need a clamp for the one end, and shorten cable to fit.

Mantree · « **Reply #27 on:** October 21, 2015, 08:36:30 AM »

Quote from: 754 on October 20, 2015, 11:40:25 PM

Use your broken clutch cable , on the forward control. You just need a clamp for the one end, and shorten cable to fit.

I have been trying to find something with a clevis on one end and a treaded rod on the other and I think I finally found a break cable from a 75 sportster which is what my forward controls came off of

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754 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 21, 2015, 09:01:26 AM »

Are you talking break pedal side ?

Those forward controls are likely Daniel Boone, i think they were called, lots of pics of them in the old Jammer catalogs.
Clevis will have far more slop, than a rod end.

Mantree · « **Reply #29 on:** October 21, 2015, 09:14:37 AM »

What do you meen by rod end

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754 · « **Reply #30 on:** October 21, 2015, 09:24:56 AM »

Search heim joint
Are you working on the brake side ?
Do you want to use cable or rod ?
You need to probably make new mounts between , the forward control and frame.

Mantree · « **Reply #31 on:** October 21, 2015, 11:12:09 AM »

I am well familiar with him joints having them as the mounts on my sidecar and using them as the conections for my shifter linkage but I feal like that would have more play than this piece from jpcycles. Trying to fall asleep last night I had a thought and may see if I can get a maching shop to throw a bolt in there lathe and bore a hole for a cable to go threw and then a step up on one end to let the fural sit in the bolt
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-988

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Mantree · « **Reply #32 on:** October 26, 2015, 10:56:18 AM »

I found a break cable from a cm250 with a front drum break is about 4' long and will have some stays made up buy a friend who has access to a machine shop. Then I just need a cleaves that I can put on the leaver side of the cable

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SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan · « **Reply #33 on:** October 26, 2015, 12:07:32 PM »

Mantree,

I am glad that despite the conditions of the inherited frame, you are undertaking a proper repair.

Mantree · « **Reply #34 on:** October 26, 2015, 12:43:30 PM »

Under took now Tim did a great job on filling it in

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Mantree · « **Reply #35 on:** October 30, 2015, 03:04:02 PM »

So my cable came last night I will be geting the stays made up and geting the new plates for the cb750 engine bolts

The brake light switch will be attached to the pin holding the brake cable to the lever but I still need a clevis made up for the lever side of the cable

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lucky · « **Reply #36 on:** October 31, 2015, 08:22:44 AM »

The stock Honda frame is only 1/16 inch thick, about .062 thousandths of an inch.

If you weld on a tube frame try not to make transverse welds if they are not needed.
To put a patch on a frame that is 1/16 inch thick use a TIG welder.
You want the lowest heat input.

All of the metal needs to be CLEAN.
Do NOT use a grinding wheel on a frame! IT is too severe.
It will remove too much metal. Just use a scotch write pad. Maybe a little paint stripper .

Mantree · « **Reply #37 on:** October 31, 2015, 11:47:51 PM »

I had a professional weld it for me I used a during wheel to take off the tab then used a flap wheel to clean the old welds sand paper to clean anything left then Tim cut a plug and welded it in. I trust his welds over any other he actually did my sidecar mounts on another bike and taught me to tig

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754 · « **Reply #38 on:** November 01, 2015, 09:16:52 AM »

What you need on your controls seems to be fairly simple and straightforward.
But without pics , really hard to help.
Had you posted clear pics in the beginning, we could have helped you thru quickly.
While finding a solution is the main goal, finding an elegant solution, that fits in nicely and compliments the bike.....is even better..

Mantree · « **Reply #39 on:** November 01, 2015, 02:08:52 PM »

Well I have templates for the bracket for the forward controlls mounts I'll get a copy of the template up soon and I have a dissing for a clevis that I will be making out of aluminum stock that will let me just slide the end of the cable in so if the cable needs replaced at any point it's simple to just pick up a replacment cable from anyone that sells honda cables. I have a guy making me a sissybar and he said he will machine me some cable stays using round stock welded to some plate like this

Then I am going to order some cable clamps off j&p to hold the cable to the frame

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754 · « **Reply #40 on:** November 01, 2015, 06:36:29 PM »

Machined ? Looks like he just cut a piece of pretty thin tubing and welded it on..
It should fit nicely to the part that is inside it, and have a slot to get the cable in and out....

Mantree · « **Reply #41 on:** November 01, 2015, 07:06:57 PM »

That is just one I found online. The guy I have doing this has a lathe to make it right and heavy duty

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Mantree · « **Reply #42 on:** November 02, 2015, 08:51:13 AM »

So I will be shortening the cable as it is about 6" to long

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Mantree · « **Reply #43 on:** November 08, 2015, 11:04:21 PM »

I have found a routing that will let me use the whole length so I don't have to cut he cable and I have designed a mount that uses the stock mount and will be making it out if aluminum stock when I have time

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Mantree · « **Reply #44 on:** April 14, 2016, 11:37:30 AM »

So sissy bar on new regulator rectifire unit on the way, new barrier blocks coming to clean up the flying spaghetti monster in the headlight bucket and a starter solinoid so that I can get my electric start back. Still no progress on the forward controlls yet

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Mantree · « **Reply #45 on:** April 14, 2016, 02:57:34 PM »

Summer is soon so I need to get ready for some camping

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mystic_1 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 14, 2016, 03:33:29 PM »

Nice.

I always like to see bikes with Konged frames, they make me feel so much better about the comparatively much milder mods I made to mine

Also, tell me more about those bars please.

mystic_1

Mantree · « **Reply #47 on:** April 14, 2016, 09:35:32 PM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on April 14, 2016, 03:33:29 PM

Nice.

I always like to see bikes with Konged frames, they make me feel so much better about the comparatively much milder mods I made to mine

Also, tell me more about those bars please.

mystic_1

The bike was chopped up by my uncle in the late 70s. The handlebars are called window handlebars they are a set of stock bars with what are esentaly welded on risers I'll try to grab some pictures when I get home tomorrow morning.

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Mantree · « **Reply #48 on:** April 15, 2016, 08:44:00 AM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on April 14, 2016, 03:33:29 PM

Nice.

I always like to see bikes with Konged frames, they make me feel so much better about the comparatively much milder mods I made to mine

Also, tell me more about those bars please.

mystic_1

You could get the same effect with these
http://m.ebay.com/itm/361197042475
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mystic_1 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 17, 2016, 05:20:58 PM »

Oooh, I get it now, my eyes were playing tricks on me with regards to how they were mounted.

It's very cool that you know the history of the bike and you're keeping it on the road after all these years.

mystic_1

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Author Topic: frame damage oh no (Read 13696 times)