Author Topic: Fork Seal Removal ? (Read 5795 times)

rddcw · « **on:** November 09, 2015, 05:47:08 PM »

Anyone used one of these fork seal removal tools ? Or one of these C-clamps ? Just trying to get an idea which one would work better without damaging the fork tube on my CB 750 K4.

mrfish2 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2015, 06:29:25 PM »

A big flat head screwdriver is your best friend when removing fork seals, just go slow and steady and you'll be fine. No fancy tools needed.

MickB · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2015, 06:32:35 PM »

Rddce check this out

http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/honda-cb500-fork-rebuild.aspx#axzz2hpysc2Eu

BollarNPS · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2015, 06:47:18 PM »

just did this not that long ago and one came out pretty easy with some muscle and a large flat head. As for the second one it was not as easy but after some reading. Use a hair dryer and heat the area around the seal and it popped out quite effortlessly

rddcw · « **Reply #4 on:** November 09, 2015, 08:15:11 PM »

I thought by pushing against a rag between the fork lip and screw driver would damage the fork so you would need something that would cushion it better ? I guess it would depend on how tight the fork seal is.

754 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 09, 2015, 08:19:28 PM »

Dont use a rag, use a piece of aluminum like 3/32 or thicker..
BTW i poke or drill a tiny hole in two places into the steel part of seal. Then screw in screws, and pull with clawhammer..

Flyin900 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 09, 2015, 08:26:15 PM »

The heat sounds like an excellent idea. Sometimes they can be really tight in there. I just did a 76 Goldwing and their seals are very thick compared to the CB's. Using a seal puller tool like what you have in your first picture I literally had to clamp the fork in a vise and stand on the bench to leverage enough to remove them.
Will definitely try a heat gun next time as aluminum expands nicely and heat is your friend I have found on most jobs. Just didn't think about it to remove a fork seal.

NobleHops · « **Reply #7 on:** November 09, 2015, 09:20:25 PM »

Heat is your friend, one way or the other. Here's two ways to employ it, both have worked for me.

Put the stanchion in a vise so it's stable and level, then take a MAPP or propane torch and heat up the aluminum of the stanchion around the seal till it's Nice and Hot. 200 or so. When a drop of water sizzles on it, you're ready. Now spray some WD40 all around the outside edge of the offending seal. Will luck you will see it get drawn into the area between the seal and stanchion. Now, take the prybar, protect the top of the stanchion as suggested and give it a pry. Pry it from opposite sides, as quickly as you can before it cools. You can repeat the heat and spray too.

If that doesn't work, respray the WD and light the stuff on fire. Yes, that's what I did.

And when I heard the sizzling and popping of it behind the seal, I blew it out and then it popped out very easily. Desperate measures, yes, but this was a 46 year old seal and my machinist couldn't get it out with conventional means either.

P.S. Wear gloves and eye protection, yeah?

Redline it · « **Reply #8 on:** November 10, 2015, 12:18:04 AM »

Quote from: MickB on November 09, 2015, 06:32:35 PM

Rddce check this out

http://www.motorcycleclassics.com/mc-how-to/honda-cb500-fork-rebuild.aspx#axzz2hpysc2Eu

That's nothing but scary. A simple small diameter rod just longer than the slider, going in from the bottom bolt with a small cut out or nick just under its top that fits under the seal, all you have to do is tap the extended couple of inches of rod protruding out the bottom on the bench while holding the slider and rod together, and it pushes the seal out without any levering on the top, nor any scratches in the race.

rddcw · « **Reply #9 on:** November 10, 2015, 07:24:32 AM »

All Great Ideas ! Now to get busy. I'll try the Heat and Leverage method first using an aluminum brace to protect the fork lip and see how that will work.

If not , I'll go from underneath with a long rod of some sort ( maybe a threaded rod you can buy at a Hardware store ? ).

Haven't pulled the forks apart yet. Hopefully that bottom retainer allen head bolt will come out easily so I can proceed.

NobleHops · « **Reply #10 on:** November 10, 2015, 12:16:01 PM »

Quote from: rddcw on November 10, 2015, 07:24:32 AM

All Great Ideas ! Now to get busy. I'll try the Heat and Leverage method first using an aluminum brace to protect the fork lip and see how that will work.

If not , I'll go from underneath with a long rod of some sort ( maybe a threaded rod you can buy at a Hardware store ? ).

Haven't pulled the forks apart yet. Hopefully that bottom retainer allen head bolt will come out easily so I can proceed.

Go for that bottom bolt with an air or electric impact from the get-go, and BEFORE you remove the top cap.

Duanob · « **Reply #11 on:** November 10, 2015, 12:50:18 PM »

754's idea has always worked for me, on all seals. A couple of screws and a tack remover work wonders or something to pry with. Also never, never scratch the inside of the fork leg where the outside of the seal sits.

przjohn · « **Reply #12 on:** November 10, 2015, 01:19:50 PM »

I'm with Noblehops on the heat method, Though I have never had the opportunity to toast marshmallows like that.

NobleHops · « **Reply #13 on:** November 10, 2015, 06:36:47 PM »

Quote from: przjohn on November 10, 2015, 01:19:50 PM

I'm with Noblehops on the heat method, Though I have never had the opportunity to toast marshmallows like that.

Desperate times...

Those buggers were in there SOLIDLY. And leaking. When I resorted to this, I heard popping sounds after a few seconds, blew it out, and out they came.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #14 on:** November 10, 2015, 06:52:22 PM »

Screwdriver and a rag always worked for me. Just take your time and slowly apply force.

turkey4me · « **Reply #15 on:** February 09, 2016, 12:22:12 PM »

I just pulled my fork seals with a reversed gear puller. I farted around with the C clamp and then remembered I had a gear puller.

I do have a question regarding Fork Seal installation. I have dual disk 78 750F forks and inside the tube there is a small 1.5mm lip, then 5 mm below that is the actual surface the seal is supposed to rest on when installed. I have 48 mm OEM seals and they wont seat all the way down because the small lip narrows the tube diameter to 45 mm.
Any F guys out there run into this before?

rotortiller · « **Reply #16 on:** February 09, 2016, 01:36:40 PM »

I remove the springs and fill the suckers with oil, then cap them off, after removing cir-clips (Seal Retainer) and dust cover. I stick it in my press and pop the suckers out with internal hydraulic pressure developed by compressing the forks. Works great on most bikes and causes no mechanical damage from tooling.

rt

Johnie · « **Reply #17 on:** February 09, 2016, 02:58:36 PM »

OK...you guys may yell at me, but I have done a number of fork seals and this month I tried a new technique. I heard of the claw so got out the trusty claw hammer. Of course I was very careful to be sure I was not near the aluminum so as to not mark the seal casing. I tell you both seals on this K3 came out like butter. Of all the seals I have done this was the easiest and quickest. I just put the claw in far enough to bite on the underside of the seal and slowly pried up just like the seal removers you can buy. Worked real slick. I would not recommend this to a newbie unless they understand the importance of the correct claw placement...OK...now you can start the flaming

evanphi · « **Reply #18 on:** February 10, 2016, 05:21:12 AM »

I just used a flathead screwdriver the other night to get mine out. Careful you don't scratch, though!

DaveBarbier · « **Reply #19 on:** February 10, 2016, 05:59:35 AM »

Quote from: evanphi on February 10, 2016, 05:21:12 AM

I just used a flathead screwdriver the other night to get mine out. Careful you don't scratch, though!

That's what I've been using this whole time. Big flat head and a double or tripled up piece of cardboard to protect the lip. Easy peasy.

strynboen · « **Reply #20 on:** February 10, 2016, 08:13:35 AM »

better just to pull the lover auter legg. remove the umbrakko bolt,dovn in bottom..and not risk to damage the inner tube..make it easuer to vash all old oil and dirt aut...and easy vip, the sealing up

70CB750 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 10, 2016, 08:31:52 AM »

Quote from: 754 on November 09, 2015, 08:19:28 PM

Dont use a rag, use a piece of aluminum like 3/32 or thicker..
BTW i poke or drill a tiny hole in two places into the steel part of seal. Then screw in screws, and pull with clawhammer..

Prefered method.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 10, 2016, 05:06:43 PM »

On K0 forks, the seals come out when you remove the fork tubes from the lowers, because the brass bushing locks against the rebound pistons and pushes out the seal on the way out

mystic_1

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2016, 06:32:17 PM »

Quote from: turkey4me on February 09, 2016, 12:22:12 PM

I just pulled my fork seals with a reversed gear puller. I farted around with the C clamp and then remembered I had a gear puller.

I do have a question regarding Fork Seal installation. I have dual disk 78 750F forks and inside the tube there is a small 1.5mm lip, then 5 mm below that is the actual surface the seal is supposed to rest on when installed. I have 48 mm OEM seals and they wont seat all the way down because the small lip narrows the tube diameter to 45 mm.
Any F guys out there run into this before?

Turkey, I think I got this figured out...drive the seal in only far enough that you can get the spring clip seated in the groove...thats all there is to it. Perhaps you are missing the spring clips...part 2 on the fiche oil seal stopper ring... a whopping $2.84 a piece from Honda
http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/oemparts/a/hon/506b8d9bf870023420a1e9bf/front-fork

turkey4me · « **Reply #24 on:** February 11, 2016, 05:02:58 AM »

If under compression the seal rises up and stops against the snap ring then my fork seals will always leak. They have been in too many screwdriver fights since 1978. I can almost read the initials of my first girlfriend tattooed in the aluminum.

PeWe · « **Reply #25 on:** February 11, 2016, 10:14:15 AM »

Electrical heatgun work fine to make it loosen up. 754 screw procedure must work.

alacrity · « **Reply #26 on:** February 11, 2016, 12:25:16 PM »

have some leftover semi-rigid vinyl floor tiles that I've cut into small sections. I use these as interfaces for the bench vice, or sometimes for "facing" a set of big vice grips or channel locks, and they work great on the lip of a fork leg lower. Absolutely zero scratches….

Menessis · « **Reply #27 on:** May 12, 2016, 04:56:21 PM »

If you don't mind pulling it right apart do it this way.

Menessis

Kevin550750 · « **Reply #28 on:** June 10, 2016, 10:02:18 AM »

An improvement over the flat head screwdriver is to use the hooked end of a tire lever. Grabs the ridge in the middle perfectly so you don't scratch the seat, won't break at the handle and cut you, superior leverage.

Kevin550750 · « **Reply #29 on:** June 10, 2016, 10:36:33 AM »

Also I've found that an improvement over the use of a similar diameter socket for driving new seals can be to simply use the old seal itself, placed on top of the new seal and driven with a rubber mallet.

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Author Topic: Fork Seal Removal ? (Read 5795 times)