Topic: -Project Suzzie-

[grcamna2]

tt,
The 5th picture from the top in your last post shows some electrical ground cables and w/ one that has some red tape near the terminal where it connects near the airbox..,I hope you're able to give them all good ground connections to the frame.The Suzuki's I've worked on,about 75% of them had a ground strap that was poorly connected,corroded or just plain missing which would overheat the harness,switches & fry the charging system.

[toytuff]

That ground cable is way off and not even close to OEM. Probably bought at Tractor Supply.

I have a friend on a Ducati forum that makes cables, any length and any type of connectors. I plan on replacing both of them once I get the length then cleaning up the whole electrical system followed by the proper grease.

This will be a long project. Might just do a frame off once I get the correct parts and running.

[toytuff]

Sean..you are correct. The light came on this afternoon at happy hour. (3 Marguritas in)

Heck, I even removed the line! 

[seanbarney41]

Sean..you are correct. The light came on this afternoon at happy hour. (3 Marguritas in)

Heck, I even removed the line! 

"What dumbass hooked this vacuum line to the petcock?...hmmm, this petcock seems totally plugged.  No gas comes out in any position."   (5.56 hours later at the bar)  "D'oh!"   Yeah, I been there before.

Mityvac that you probably use to bleed brakes is the Hot ticket for testing flow and draining.

[grcamna2]

Sean..you are correct. The light came on this afternoon at happy hour. (3 Marguritas in)

Heck, I even removed the line! 

"What dumbass hooked this vacuum line to the petcock?...hmmm, this petcock seems totally plugged.  No gas comes out in any position."   (5.56 hours later at the bar)  "D'oh!"   Yeah, I been there before.

Mityvac that you probably use to bleed brakes is the Hot ticket for testing flow and draining.

To 'free flow' gravity drain it should have a "Pri" position also.

[toytuff]

Quite a bit accomplished this morning. Spent quite a bit of time cross refferencing parts between a 1983 GS450 and a 1982 GSX400. Actually found a lot of parts. $300 worth to be exact. Fork parts, fuel parts, battery box parts, gaskets and more.

The real find were the side covers albiet in black. (only red and black for the 83) No worries as I have decided to repaint the whole bike. Exact part numbers. Carburetors no go. I read where they were different.

Today I stripped the bike a little more for a good bath tomorrow. I'll seal off the electrical.



Finally removed all the rear rack parts. Always wondered why the rear turns were askew. Brackets were just tightened down to "where this works". Right lined back good, left will need some attention as the bracket is somewhat bent.



Onward...

[toytuff]

Sean..you are correct. The light came on this afternoon at happy hour. (3 Marguritas in)

Heck, I even removed the line! 

"What dumbass hooked this vacuum line to the petcock?...hmmm, this petcock seems totally plugged.  No gas comes out in any position."   (5.56 hours later at the bar)  "D'oh!"   Yeah, I been there before.

Mityvac that you probably use to bleed brakes is the Hot ticket for testing flow and draining.

To 'free flow' gravity drain it should have a "Pri" position also.

All I see is ON, RES, OFF. Neighbor was a Auto Shop teacher at the College for 30 years. All kind of "neat" tools. Bringing a VAC test over.

[grcamna2]

That one doesn't have the 'pri' position? I used to test the vacuum fuel valves w/ only enough suction that you'd be able to use your mouth and then try to let the rubber hose from the diaphram section kind stick to your tongue and if it wouldn't stick then it meant the diaphram had a pin hole,etc. in it.They don't take much suction(very low resistance;don't use more vacuum then you need to!) to get them flowing but if they do then there's something wrong and should be taken apart.The actual plunger which does the seal in the fuel valve has an o-ring that needs to move very freely.

[toytuff]

I'll get to it in due time. I really didn't look that close as I was draining the fuel out. Still some inside.

The seat cleaned up nice. I'll give it a recoat down the road. It's in very good condition.

[toytuff]

Looking good tt

According to the Service Manual Suzuki had several different petcocks depending on model. Like you said, one with PRI and one without. I have the without. I thought it was off, on, reserve but after wiping some crud off it says fuel on top. So, I have on and reserve.

Scrubbed this thing down on Friday. Cleaned up pretty good.









Cleaned the electrical up a bit and now have the motor turning over after a little soak. Feels good. Always a relief.

These came with a gear position indicator on the dash. As I checked electrical (turns, headlight etc.)  I ran it up to 5 which has a burnt bulb. OK, ill add bulbs to the order. Fische says 6? Really? Six?

Yup..6.



When the carburetor parts arrive they will be next. Plenty to do in the meantime.

[grcamna2]

You got the engine clean and the other 'needs' sorted.

[Trevor from Warragul]

Those Suzuki 250/400's are notorious for iffy regulator-rectifiers.  Be prepared for the battery to burn off all its fluid.  The trick was to replace the regulator-rectifier with one from a Honda CB250/400N.  The trick now is to buy a replacement from Electrex

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

Trevor

[grcamna2]

Those Suzuki 250/400's are notorious for iffy regulator-rectifiers.  Be prepared for the battery to burn off all its fluid.  The trick was to replace the regulator-rectifier with one from a Honda CB250/400N.  The trick now is to buy a replacement from Electrex

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

Trevor

Give your reg./rect. it's own special frame ground & don't depend on the small steel sleeves inside the rubber grommets where the 6mm bolts hold things down,that will take care of it.

[Stev-o]

Hey tt.....seat looks fantastic.  What is your secret cleaner?!

I was also thinking the fuel flow was vacuum related, the Kaw Triples are too. 

[Restoration Fan]

It does look better without the rack and sissy bar.

Damn.  Sexy bike.

[toytuff]

Something to shoot towards huh? 

[toytuff]

Hey tt.....seat looks fantastic.  What is your secret cleaner?!

I was also thinking the fuel flow was vacuum related, the Kaw Triples are too.

The underside was pretty much as you see it. On the top I used some dawn soap and a sponge to clean the crud out of the seams followed by some Corbin Seat Cream on hand.

Yes, it's vacuum. Removed it today and looks good. Replaced in 91 looking at the receipts.

[toytuff]

Those Suzuki 250/400's are notorious for iffy regulator-rectifiers.  Be prepared for the battery to burn off all its fluid.  The trick was to replace the regulator-rectifier with one from a Honda CB250/400N.  The trick now is to buy a replacement from Electrex

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

Trevor

Give your reg./rect. it's own special frame ground & don't depend on the small steel sleeves inside the rubber grommets where the 6mm bolts hold things down,that will take care of it.

Noted! That would explain the mess down the right side. Pretty much ruined a good exhaust and other areas.

Thanks..

[toytuff]

Those Suzuki 250/400's are notorious for iffy regulator-rectifiers.  Be prepared for the battery to burn off all its fluid.  The trick was to replace the regulator-rectifier with one from a Honda CB250/400N.  The trick now is to buy a replacement from Electrex

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/

Trevor

Thanks Trevor, will be looking into that.

[toytuff]

I fired this baby up. Given the carburetors are a mess, especially the left side, it ran good with half choke and keeping the rpm around 1500. Can't give it any gas as she will quit. I can hold my hand over the right and can feel the draw, left side immediately dies. Notice the pipes blued up a little just testing it. 

I hear this noise and thought maybe the clutch. Using a wooden dowel rod I placed in several places and pinpointed it down to the back of the motor. (above the swing arm) Add to that with a fresh battery the solenoid will click several times before it cranks. Granted I have not cleaned up the ground and using a 3 foot lead on the positive side might have something to do with it.

I mention this because sometimes when you shut off the bike you hear the starter make a noise like it's disengaging. (which should of already happened) So, on the GS forum one member said it sounded normal. I'm waiting for other guru's to chime in but I don't think it's right myself. Could be paranoid too.

Another "thing" that has me baffled is the oil level. I drained close to 4 quarts out of this thing Some suggested fuel ran down in the crankcase from sitting but I did not smell it or notice it in the oil. The bike takes 2600 ml which is 2.7 quarts. It measures correct on the stick. Man, that just seems low to me.

Well, you listen.

[toytuff]

and removal. That air box was worse than a Rubic's Cube. Good Lord I'm not sure if I can get it back in!

Quite a few parts on order from all over. Poland to name one. I think they made this model for 5 years with variations by Country. I have to cross reference everything I order with the 1983 GS450E otherwise it's the Netherlands.

Any down under Terry?

[toytuff]

That crease will com up, but the paint is damaged to the point that a repaint will be required to conceal the damage. A crease stretches the metal and cracks the paint. Even the best PDR guy can't fix "broken". If you come up short on locating a guy, send it to me. At least I'll get the crease out and leave you with little work for a repaint.

By the way, is it a single layer metal shell, or is there a fuel cell within it? I'm thinking that year was only a metal tank -

Single layer, on the fuel gauge side which I can remove.

This is not my forte. I was told that to pull it you would have to tack pins, stretch it back and grind the pins down. (I have no idea what the method is or the official name)

Other options? It's a shame really because if the tank was not dented I could go without a repaint.

[grcamna2]

I fired this baby up. Given the carburetors are a mess, especially the left side, it ran good with half choke and keeping the rpm around 1500. Can't give it any gas as she will quit. I can hold my hand over the right and can feel the draw, left side immediately dies. Notice the pipes blued up a little just testing it. 

I hear this noise and thought maybe the clutch. Using a wooden dowel rod I placed in several places and pinpointed it down to the back of the motor. (above the swing arm) Add to that with a fresh battery the solenoid will click several times before it cranks. Granted I have not cleaned up the ground and using a 3 foot lead on the positive side might have something to do with it.

I mention this because sometimes when you shut off the bike you hear the starter make a noise like it's disengaging. (which should of already happened) So, on the GS forum one member said it sounded normal. I'm waiting for other guru's to chime in but I don't think it's right myself. Could be paranoid too.

Another "thing" that has me baffled is the oil level. I drained close to 4 quarts out of this thing Some suggested fuel ran down in the crankcase from sitting but I did not smell it or notice it in the oil. The bike takes 2600 ml which is 2.7 quarts. It measures correct on the stick. Man, that just seems low to me.

Well, you listen.

tt,
Go through the carbs. and make sure to drill out the 2) brass/alum. pilot screw plugs on the front/tops of the carb throats that hide the pilot screws down underneath but drill slowly.. ,you don't want to go through the screws!
I would do the carbs. and fully adjust everything and synch. it real good(even at low idle w/ the pilot screws) and then listen to the engine again and see if you still have that noise.

[calj737]

Single layer, on the fuel gauge side which I can remove.

This is not my forte. I was told that to pull it you would have to tack pins, stretch it back and grind the pins down. (I have no idea what the method is or the official name)

Other options? It's a shame really because if the tank was not dented I could go without a repaint.

Single layer is better as the metal can be pushed from inside.
Welding on "studs" that are pulled with a slide hammer is probably what you're referring to. Probably, pushing from the inside is all thats required.
Other options? None beside sand down, fill with bondo, and paint over it. Or a replacement tank.
Hack approach and I know that's not you. But at least with pushing it from inside, the paint while cracked, will still be there. You can deal with a repaint later to make it perfect.

[toytuff]

I don't think there is room from the inside but I'll check tomorrow. Not much room. Might be more room with the fuel float assembly removed.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx400e-1982-z_model13618/partslist/FIG-41.html#results

I did watch a video where the tank was heated then sprayed with a can of air held upside down. It worked somewhat but with the crease I would say a no go.

Yeah, bondo is out.