Topic: All you kids running an Motogadget M-unit sound off

[greenjeans]

For you guys that have one installed.  How long have you had it, how many miles have you put on with it
and anything else you would care to share about it ?   Tips tricks etc.   Been thinking about on of those for
a while now.   Talk me into it.

[CBGhia]

I am about to rewire my 550 (you may remember that bike), when it gets back from powdercoat. 
I have looked at the M-Unit and I can't see any real advantage for these older bikes.  You still have to run wires to all of the controls.  It's a little more condensed and you can use thinner wires to the controls, so that helps, I guess... but what else makes it worth the cost? Turn signal cancelling?

[seanbarney41]

I am about to rewire my 550 (you may remember that bike), when it gets back from powdercoat. 
I have looked at the M-Unit and I can't see any real advantage for these older bikes.  You still have to run wires to all of the controls.  It's a little more condensed and you can use thinner wires to the controls, so that helps, I guess... but what else makes it worth the cost? Turn signal cancelling?

hey man, it kinda looks like a cell phone...so it's gotta be good!

[dusterdude]

Awwww man,i wish you hadnt opened this thread.now we'll have to listen to cal spout the m unit kool aid

[Camrector]

I'm using it on my 550 build. Ease of use (wiring) is mainly why I got it. Control wires to M-button then one wire to M unit. Not sure if I'll use all of the features (light flashing options) but the alarm built in seems cool, and zero fuses!

[Camrector]

Also I think if you watch the Revival Cycle video, and he wires a bike in 6 minutes with it I think you will be as sold as I was.

[greenjeans]

Not opposed to purchasing the 3-button motogadget to eliminate hand controls.

[FunJimmy]

This should be interesting

[Kevin Knueppel]

First I've heard of it. Did some research and it looks great. I might be ordering for my project.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

[calj737]

Control wires to M-button then one wire to M unit.

Skip the M-Button, it has conflicts with certain types of ignitions.

Do you need it? Nope. Will the stock electronics do the job? Yep. I do like them, and I use them on all my builds. But, every bike I use them on is a full re-wire, all new modern electronics, and all new non-stock components. So "grafting" modern harnesses to stock harnesses is a major PITA.

The biggest difference in the M-unit versus the stock harness is the direction of power. Stock, the key transfers power to the handlebar controls, then to the component. Thus, the stock wires carry current to/thru the handlebars. With the M-unit, the controls only send a GROUND to the M-unit, then internally, the power is sent to the output side and directly to the component. It matters only from a wiring perspective and it does reduce the gauge and complexity of your harness.

The M-unit still requires an inline fuse (albeit quite small) to protect it from over-amp incidents. Internally, the M-unit separates each function onto its own circuit (TURN L is separate from TURN R, HORN is isolated, and so on) so from a troubleshooting/reliability, I feel it has some advantages over the stock system. You could lose functions of the indicators and still run the bike as opposed to being dead on the side of the road with limited to no lighting. (By the way, each circuit is also self-resetting in the event of a short).

There are some embedded features like: Integrated Flasher, Low Battery Warning, Auto Cancel for your indicators, Flash to Pass, Strobe on your Brake, % illumination on your indicators as Running lights, Alarm, etc. Maybe these features are of no interest to a "restoration bike" but for a "resto-mod" they're pretty convenient.

So it really depends upon your situation as to whether its a good buy. If you have to replace most of the wiring and components because you bought an abandoned bike, and everything is shot, I'd say do it. Otherwise, a modern ATC fuse panel and some diligence works really well too.

But I like all their products a LOT. They're very high quality, but they do charge for it. Maybe not the product line for many, but for some, its all they'll use after experiencing them once.

There are some tricks to getting the most out of them, but only if you find yourself determined to buy one.

Awwww man,i wish you hadnt opened this thread.now we'll have to listen to cal spout the m unit kool aid

As for this ^^^, what took me 3 days to do for Duster, I could have done in 6 hours with an M-unit if he weren't so damn cheap 

Not opposed to purchasing the 3-button motogadget to eliminate hand controls.

You'll need 5 buttons to replicate the stock functions (Turn L, Turn R, Horn, Start, LO/HI). And 6 if you use they electronic gauge (MENU).

[fodzilla]

I managed to grab an m-unit of a friend cheap as he's building a custom T110 and doesn't have a need for it.  Quite looking forward to getting it on my cb500 and burning the custom harness I built that caused me a summer of nightmares tracking down a simple charging issue. (Forgot to earth the stator, got very friendly with the recovery drivers near me - I know, but my first wiring attempt!!!)

Skip the M-Button, it has conflicts with certain types of ignitions.

I'm a little confused with this Cal, could you expand?  I was planning on using grabbing one to simple keep everything neat and simple.

[calj737]

(Forgot to earth the stator, got very friendly with the recovery drivers near me - I know, but my first wiring attempt!!!)

The M-unit doesn't solve "Newbie" nor does it have anything to do with the charging system. In fact, the inline fuse is required for just such an event  

Skip the M-Button, it has conflicts with certain types of ignitions.

I'm a little confused with this Cal, could you expand?  I was planning on using grabbing one to simple keep everything neat and simple.
[/quote]

Depending upon what ignition you're running, the M-Button (which converts Analog signals to Digital signals within the Button) can struggle with the interference of the plug wires, ignition/tach and plugs. If you do use it (I did initially on a bike, but later deleted it and simplified my wiring into function looms) you need to be prepared for using Resistor Wires, Caps or Plugs, or combinations of these components in conjunction with electronic ignitions.

I spent a great deal of time working thru my issues with MotoG via email (they were excellent) and ultimately we determined this interference was the cause. I had 2 Buttons at my disposal, and swapped them and the M-units around with no relief. Since then, I do not use it, and have had ZERO problems or conflicts.

[Camrector]

Skip the m-button? How are you then expected to chose and select the different features and settings?? And how could it interfere with their own keyless ignition system? Connecting control wires to the M-button only requires you to run one wire to the unit instead of them all.

[ChopSticks]

Not opposed to purchasing the 3-button motogadget to eliminate hand controls.

You'll need 5 buttons to replicate the stock functions (Turn L, Turn R, Horn, Start, LO/HI). And 6 if you use they electronic gauge (MENU).

might be a really dumb question, but will the stock controls work with the m-unit? Recently got one as a present but definitely not at that stage in the build, not sure if I need to start looking for new controls or not?

Also for all your builds where did you decide to mount the M-unit?

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Not opposed to purchasing the 3-button motogadget to eliminate hand controls.

You'll need 5 buttons to replicate the stock functions (Turn L, Turn R, Horn, Start, LO/HI). And 6 if you use they electronic gauge (MENU).

might be a really dumb question, but will the stock controls work with the m-unit? Recently got one as a present but definitely not at that stage in the build, not sure if I need to start looking for new controls or not?

Also for all your builds where did you decide to mount the M-unit?

Yes.

Many users mount the M-unit under the seat in a pan for electronic components (reg/rec, battery, etc.).

[calj737]

Skip the m-button? How are you then expected to chose and select the different features and settings?? And how could it interfere with their own keyless ignition system? Connecting control wires to the M-button only requires you to run one wire to the unit instead of them all.

You "select" the function of a momentary button by running its wire into the left side port labeled "TURN L" or "HORN" or whatever you want it to be. Its labeled, and this makes changing the assignment of a button/control switch extremely easy.

The M-Buton uses a single wire from it to the CONFIG port where based upon the switch (handlebar) wire you chose to wire to the M-Button, that function is then programmed. Its an intermediate device that is really not a benefit once you've done about, oh say, 60 installs. Even after 1 install, you'll understand.

As for conflicts with the ignition, I'm describing the igntion not the key switch. You are confusing the two.

might be a really dumb question, but will the stock controls work with the m-unit?
Also for all your builds where did you decide to mount the M-unit?

Yes, the stock controls will work with the M-unit. BUT, you need to read and understand what I wrote above (about the power distribution being "reversed"). With stock controls, the BLACK stock wire essentially now gets "grounded" to completely ground the switches. The stock switch wires (ORANGE, BLUE, LT GREEN, etc) would then run directly to the input side of the M-unit to send the ground signal to the M-unit. The output side of the M-unit gets wired directly to the component (light, horn, solenoid, etc). In this example I use stock BLACK as its already wired to the switches, and it is superfluous with the M-unit as no power is sent to/thru the handlebar controls.

I've installed them under seats, under tanks on the backbone, on the battery box, etc. The unit is smaller than a pack of cigarettes (maybe you're familiar with that size?) and does not require special environmental considerations.

[dusterdude]

Control wires to M-button then one wire to M unit.

Skip the M-Button, it has conflicts with certain types of ignitions.

Do you need it? Nope. Will the stock electronics do the job? Yep. I do like them, and I use them on all my builds. But, every bike I use them on is a full re-wire, all new modern electronics, and all new non-stock components. So "grafting" modern harnesses to stock harnesses is a major PITA.

The biggest difference in the M-unit versus the stock harness is the direction of power. Stock, the key transfers power to the handlebar controls, then to the component. Thus, the stock wires carry current to/thru the handlebars. With the M-unit, the controls only send a GROUND to the M-unit, then internally, the power is sent to the output side and directly to the component. It matters only from a wiring perspective and it does reduce the gauge and complexity of your harness.

The M-unit still requires an inline fuse (albeit quite small) to protect it from over-amp incidents. Internally, the M-unit separates each function onto its own circuit (TURN L is separate from TURN R, HORN is isolated, and so on) so from a troubleshooting/reliability, I feel it has some advantages over the stock system. You could lose functions of the indicators and still run the bike as opposed to being dead on the side of the road with limited to no lighting. (By the way, each circuit is also self-resetting in the event of a short).

There are some embedded features like: Integrated Flasher, Low Battery Warning, Auto Cancel for your indicators, Flash to Pass, Strobe on your Brake, % illumination on your indicators as Running lights, Alarm, etc. Maybe these features are of no interest to a "restoration bike" but for a "resto-mod" they're pretty convenient.

So it really depends upon your situation as to whether its a good buy. If you have to replace most of the wiring and components because you bought an abandoned bike, and everything is shot, I'd say do it. Otherwise, a modern ATC fuse panel and some diligence works really well too.

But I like all their products a LOT. They're very high quality, but they do charge for it. Maybe not the product line for many, but for some, its all they'll use after experiencing them once.

There are some tricks to getting the most out of them, but only if you find yourself determined to buy one.

Awwww man,i wish you hadnt opened this thread.now we'll have to listen to cal spout the m unit kool aid

As for this ^^^, what took me 3 days to do for Duster, I could have done in 6 hours with an M-unit if he weren't so damn cheap 

Not opposed to purchasing the 3-button motogadget to eliminate hand controls.

You'll need 5 buttons to replicate the stock functions (Turn L, Turn R, Horn, Start, LO/HI). And 6 if you use they electronic gauge (MENU).

Durn tootin brother

[Camrector]

Gotcha Cal great info that I didn't know. I see what you could mean by the ignition then being a problem. Something I haven't encountered because all my bikes are kick only. I also start my builds from none running piles of crap and replace everything with new. Ripping the old electric system off a bike brings a very warm feeling to my heart.

[ChopSticks]

Yes.

Many users mount the M-unit under the seat in a pan for electronic components (reg/rec, battery, etc.).

Does the oil pan have to be relocated with a pan under the seat?

[ChopSticks]

might be a really dumb question, but will the stock controls work with the m-unit?
Also for all your builds where did you decide to mount the M-unit?

Yes, the stock controls will work with the M-unit. BUT, you need to read and understand what I wrote above (about the power distribution being "reversed"). With stock controls, the BLACK stock wire essentially now gets "grounded" to completely ground the switches. The stock switch wires (ORANGE, BLUE, LT GREEN, etc) would then run directly to the input side of the M-unit to send the ground signal to the M-unit. The output side of the M-unit gets wired directly to the component (light, horn, solenoid, etc). In this example I use stock BLACK as its already wired to the switches, and it is superfluous with the M-unit as no power is sent to/thru the handlebar controls.

I've installed them under seats, under tanks on the backbone, on the battery box, etc. The unit is smaller than a pack of cigarettes (maybe you're familiar with that size?) and does not require special environmental considerations.

Duly noted, have you ever purchased the ~$80 wiring kit motogadget offers? Is it worth it? Or better to just buy regular wire?

Also what kind of tanks have you installed under? Really interested in this placement, I saw one on a 750 but the tank was a Yamaha or something, wonder if it's possible with a stock '74 tank?

[calj737]

If you mean relocating the oil tank with an under seat install, then no, the M-unit can fit inside a tray.

I have used their wire kit. It's very nice quality wire, but only beneficial if you are using their M-Switches. Their momentary buttons can accept very thin gauge wire since there is no current. The Wire kit contains 2 gauges; 1 for power and 1 for signals.  They use different color schemes too. I just use high quality copper stranded wire in 24awg and 18awg. I but it in 100' spools thru McMaster.

A (cough, cough) Harley peanut, a vintage BMW, an older Ducsti, and more relevant a 750f. Another location on the 750 is within the lateral tubes beside the backbone. A small mounting plate and away you go. Makes access to it a bit more tricky, but once it's set up, it's a "forget it" kind of product.

[scottly]

An old-school "m" unit (sorry Cal, I couldn't resist myself ):

[Kevin Knueppel]

So was everything OK using resistor caps?

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

[ChopSticks]

I just use high quality copper stranded wire in 24awg and 18awg. I but it in 100' spools thru McMaster.

A (cough, cough) Harley peanut, a vintage BMW, an older Ducsti, and more relevant a 750f. Another location on the 750 is within the lateral tubes beside the backbone. A small mounting plate and away you go. Makes access to it a bit more tricky, but once it's set up, it's a "forget it" kind of product.

Do you have a link to the wires? I'm on mcmasters and doesn't look like they separate by copper, but by "type" of wire such as chem resist, harsh enviro, radiation etc

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=116z79b

Assuming the 24awg is for controls and 18awg for power and 25-50 ft should be more than sufficient right?

Another location on the 750 is within the lateral tubes beside the backbone.

Is this that flat bar where the back of the seat cover?

[Gooseman]

I picked one of these up on a resto-mod 76F project that had no wiring harness to start, and needed custom wired anyway due to electronics relocation.

My favorite part of this system is actually somewhat of a safety feature.  The digital relays detect shorts and/or over volting and immediately shuts down the offending relay!!  This will prevent an electrical fire/melt down should something start shorting out, even on the main line in the case of loose battery cable!
I went for a test ride after butting something back up this fall and after a couple blocks the bike would shut off when i hit a decent bump in the road.  I pull over scratching my head, pull the seat off, Ooops!! Positive battery cable is loose!
Had it not been for the M-Unit detecting the short and shutting off that circuit, I would have melted that battery terminal for sure if not started an electrical fire!!  The M-Unit saved me from this disaster, I tightened the terminal up and went on my way.