Topic: Cb550k0 rebuild

[BomberMann650]

Interchangeable but the bearings must be matched from crank to cases.

not sure I would have called those half circle things "bearings" myself

[DaveBarbier]

Interchangeable but the bearings must be matched from crank to cases.

not sure I would have called those half circle things "bearings" myself

The world does.

[BomberMann650]

Interchangeable but the bearings must be matched from crank to cases.

not sure I would have called those half circle things "bearings" myself

The world does.

look more like a wearable shim to me

[sweatshirtolympics]

ohhhh riigghhht ok duh, hence why you have to go through the whole process of the crank and rod numbers/colors for the bearings. completely forgot that was even a process...

BUT GENTLEMEN! No good news as of yet. I cut the studs down and welded nuts on em so well see how this goes tonight. If I have no luck? HAHA WELL THEN! It's onto science!

Stay tuned, coming live and direct from the lab. 

-MOMENTS LAYTUER-

RIGHT, well apparently I'm not a master welder or anything  the weld broke on both studs. BUT THAT's OK! ON WARDS UNTO SCIENCE!
So were just going to try this alum trick here, my plan, which I will mock up and post later, is to isolate the stud with a can of Arizona right? Then HI temp seal it and pour water into the can until the stud is submerged adding alum and hydrogen peroxide. (Cause apparently that speeds up the oxidization process or something) Buttt uh yeah and adding heat when needed with a heat gun. BUT FIRST! I gotta clean and prep. Stay tuned crew, live and direct from the lab. ( coined)   

[DaveBarbier]

BUT GENTLEMEN! No good news as of yet. I cut the studs down and welded nuts on em so well see how this goes tonight. If I have no luck? HAHA WELL THEN! It's onto science!

Stay tuned, coming live and direct from the lab. 

I was under the impression you'd want to crack them loose as the stud was still hot from welding...

[sweatshirtolympics]

Also yes Dave that would have been the "master craftsman" understanding of it. But alas I am a novice 

[sweatshirtolympics]

OK! so now we silly-cone seal and let her sit up over night!

[sweatshirtolympics]

Except that I can never upload videos...

[sweatshirtolympics]

That Harley at the end doe...

[DaveBarbier]

Thought that was you at the end. That Arizona green tea is a laxative.

[sweatshirtolympics]

  caught me slippin lmao

[sweatshirtolympics]

[sweatshirtolympics]

so my GF moved the can, and broke the hi temp seal....

so I'm trying a different option... stay tuned..because progress will be made tonight damn it...

I

AM

#$%*TY 



But on a separate note: What are you guys using as a valve puller? I cant seem to find any small enough?

Surely I'm not stuck with this as an option http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291732004126?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

[sweatshirtolympics]

Woah really calj? and that doesnt damage anything???


hmm im going to have to hone my skills, it doesnt seem to be effective

lol well ill be... its totally a thing

[sweatshirtolympics]

V

[sweatshirtolympics]

So I decided to go grab more..

[sweatshirtolympics]

Well calj please man, at any time share your wisdom 

[sweatshirtolympics]

yes yes you have a point but I think I am over it at this point. Im just going to let the stubborn things evaporate. I'm ready to move on to the lower case.

Which I am still fighting the oil pump, the bottom mounting bolt is being something else! BUT I can confirm that the alum does create an oxidization process turning the bolts to rust. Pretty crazy to watch really.

[sweatshirtolympics]

GENTLEMEN! Please excuse my absenteeism! The winter is here an the winter daily has had me crazy distracted!

Glad to be back and now I'm crazy behind. Starting round 3 of the alum process tonight, there was a fair deal of rusting on the studs but nothing to write home about.

Since I am behind I will more than likely pick up and upper and lower case if anyone has a set for sale. Please let me know.

Hope I didn't miss to much.

[Gene]

Welcome back. Take your time. I've seen 7-year old threads come back to life here.

[sweatshirtolympics]

Hey thanks Gene, I'm really wanting this done by summer so that I can put the BMW in the garage for frame re-coating, rust removal, etc. SO IT MUST GET DONE!!! haha not a very realistic goal but oh well, I guess we'll see.

[RAFster122s]

You have your cases separated... so, send the case upper to someone who can do what Cal has suggested. 

Have you considerd getting a bottle of Mapp gas and heating the stud  to glowing hot then with a big hammer to help it break the bond.
Clamp a good pair of vice grips on the stud and give it a good slow twist. Release and clamp tighter,  then try to tighten and then reverse direction to remove.
Do this while it is hot.   

Repeat the heat cycle and try to get it to start moving.  Soak it with a good penetrant like PB Blaster. Try it again.  See if it will break loose again...

Heat it up again Hit it with PB Blaster when you start heating and see if you can get it to break free.  You really have to get it super hot a few times.  Weld another nut on it better to see if you can get it to yield with a big wrench, worst case the stud breaks and you have to go the route of building it up as Calj has recommended.  Having someone experienced to do the welding and allowing you to work on it after he welds it to get it out.  If they are good they will not damage your cases, I believe there was a case where a welder overspoke his abilities damaging the cases and did not take responsubility for the damage.

[sweatshirtolympics]

What's up guys! It's your boy again late and drawn out as ever! Ok so, the upper case was sent off to have thoes studs removed, re-tapped n' all that, then both halves were sent off to be glass blasted. But there seems to be some bonded on black #$%* stuck to the inside of the case still. What do you guys recommend I use for the inside of the case to get that crap out!

Slowly but surely, thanks!

[sweatshirtolympics]

.

[sweatshirtolympics]

Oops double post, sorry!