Topic: K3 Project has now started.

[MauiK3]

I've been thinking about the first startup. Everyone worries about the time it takes to get the oil up into everything. Of course assembly lube helps but there is always that worry about how long it will take.
What about a power prime through the gallery where we all mount the gauge on the right side? Make a temporary fitting, set up a small pump of some sort with a gauge to monitor and pump the system up until you see oil in the top end. Overkill or crazy?

[MauiK3]

Things are checking out well inside. The mains are at a "like new" clearance. I will replace the primary chain and tensioner, cam chain and tensioner and the seals of course. I still have lots of polishing to do. The transmission shows little wear. I feel lucky.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I've been thinking about the first startup. Everyone worries about the time it takes to get the oil up into everything. Of course assembly lube helps but there is always that worry about how long it will take.
What about a power prime through the gallery where we all mount the gauge on the right side? Make a temporary fitting, set up a small pump of some sort with a gauge to monitor and pump the system up until you see oil in the top end. Overkill or crazy?

An easier solution is to run the starter while the ignition is switched to OFF.  This will kill power to the ignition/coils while still running the starter motor, which will cycle oil through the motor.  If you want, you can open the valve cover (or remove it if you have a frame kit) and watch to see oil cycling to the top end.

[MauiK3]

Head, valves and cylinder are off to Hondaman. Continuing to polish stuff, I had to order a bunch of small mounted buffing felts for the Dremel, I can't get into the crevices. 43 years of exposure doesn't come off the aluminum very easily.

[calj737]

Should send those parts to Nils at RestoCycle for Vapor Blasting before the machine work. They will return in absolutely gorgeous condition.

https://www.restocycle.com

Then he can forward them to Mark, then back to you.

[MauiK3]

Their work looks great, I guess one would have to still paint the engine parts and clear coat the covers. The final finish of the valve and alternator covers appears more flat than original, it's a very cool look, not sure it's what I want.
Duplicating the original look is not easy. Hard to do for the garage guy.
Thank you
Steve

[MauiK3]

This post is about shipping gauges to CB750 Faces in the Netherlands. File under rookie mistakes.

I shipped my gauges to Marcel for repair. When you do this the post office requires you to fill out the customs form. On that form it asks for the package value and I put a value in that reflected the cost of replacement if they were lost. That was the wrong thing to do. Put the value in as very low since the gauges are going for repair. I am paying a bunch of duty on them now.
Why did I do this?
My local post office gives you grief about value every time you want to insure a package. Oh well, it still beats having to find new gauges. I really want the bike to have it's original gauges.
So much for free trade.
Steve

[MauiK3]

Got the discs back from True Disc. They were very fast and the work looks great.

[MauiK3]

Spent some time with Simple Green, brushes and rags. The engine cases are getting fairly clean. These cases were painted inside and out before the factory assembled them. I wonder why they bother with the inside.

[Stev-o]

Looks good. So what did you decide on the finish?

[MauiK3]

I'm struggling with the finish on the covers. I have buffing wheels, different rouges etc. and I can buff up the aluminum fairly well. However, the original finish was not buffed that high, it was slightly brushed. I have not found a combination that produces something close to original. Almost thinking of sending all the bright work to restocycle for vapor blast. The look isn't stock but it looks nice.
Any ideas? Is there a trick to getting the Honda finish right?
Sounds like a dumb question. I have sanding discs to 2000 grit, brown, white and green rouge, sisal discs, buffers, scotch brite discs. Argh

[MauiK3]

I answered my own question, I'll post some photos later.
I asked my wife for any ideas. She reminded me of a product we have to clean badly blemished granite called Diamond Magic. I took a dry applicator for car wax and rubbed on a few polished areas for a few minutes and it took the polish to the soft brush look right away.
Photos coming.
Steve

[MauiK3]

Here are the fork legs that I have been polishing. On the left, a few minutes with Diamond Magic. On the right, polished, before DM

[MauiK3]

This is the product

[Stev-o]

Here are the fork legs that I have been polishing. On the left, a few minutes with Diamond Magic. On the right, polished, before DM

Nice job polishing, I like the one on the right.  I realize you want a more OEM look, but keep in mind it will dull over time.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I, too, like the one on the right.  As for the engine cases, I'd probably go with Nils if I was splitting cases again.

[seanbarney41]

try polishing all the way...then hit it with long strokes of fine scotchbrite all in one direction, then clear coat.  A lot of what the original #$%* looks like is from the #$%*ty ass clear coat.  I doubt anyone can get clear that sticks to aluminum as good as what Honda used.  Most restored bikes get dinged bad by the concourse judges for over polishing of the aluminum.

[calj737]

Given where you live, polished aluminum will oxidize heavily very quickly. Stock finish will be pretty much out the window as a reasonably attainable goal. You may get just the right luster, but your climate is going to require constant buffing/polishing on unprotected aluminum.

Vapor Blasting will survive better, but it too will benefit from a protective clear coat. Clear powder coat would be my strongest recommendation for protection, durability, and final appearance over a vapor blasted finish.

[MauiK3]

Yes, I have been really going back and forth. I won't be entering this in any shows, it's just going to be a Sunday driver (or other day off, I'm supposed to be retired!). So, I'm polishing everything to get 43 years of dull off. I'm going to try several methods to go to the "slightly brushed" look and if I dont like it, go back to polished. As for coating, the folks at POR15 say if I use their prep system, their clear will stick. This is attractive to me because I can fix it in the future if needed. If I leave it all un coated it will be ugly very quickly. They also have a silver for the engine cases that I think I'll use. The frame will be their chassis black over the black POR15. I know powder coating is very popular, there is a great shop here doing it. I'm just concerned about future repairs and touch ups.
I know the bike will not be a purists stock bike. I want to make some changes in appearance and function for two reasons. Appearance because I like the K0 look (my first one back in the day) and function because of where I live. I'm trying to make it last. I'm also doing some things that seem to make good sense, such as Hondamans ignition and switch saver relays, combined voltage regulator and rectifier and a few other things.
I hope the POR15 works. I had good luck with it in my last job I retired from. I was Maint Superintendent for DOT here and the mechanic shop repaired water tankers, trailers and other equipment with the products. The POR 15 held up very well.
More to come
Aloha

[MauiK3]

Got the frame and other smaller parts ready to go to media blast soon. I had to degrease everything.
After blasting, the frame makes a stop at the welding shop for a steering stop repair.

[MauiK3]

As I get ready to start assembling the cases I notice that Amazon has two types oh Hondabond.
Hondabond 4
Hondabond HT ( high temp)
Any suggestions on which to use on the cases?
Steve

[MauiK3]

Made some progress on some of the bright work. I'm going to try the POR 15 clear product on it, hopefully I won't make a mess and have to start over. Getting 43 years of weather effect off this stuff is work!
Still have some details to take care of and I have not done the wheel hubs yet.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

New polishing business? I can send you some work!

[Stev-o]

New polishing business? I can send you some work!

+1...I hav a box of covers I could send!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Poor guy is still sleeping -- it's 5ish in the am in Hawaii!