Author Topic: need wiring harness help '78 K (Read 11216 times)

medic09 · « **Reply #50 on:** December 28, 2006, 08:18:22 PM »

Okay, well the peripheral question of "which bucket" was solved the old fashioned way. I stuffed the wiring into the stock 20M bucket, and discovered that the bucket won't quite set on the bike with the ears I have now. The back of the bucket is a larger arc, and juts to far back, given that these ears are a little shorter than the stock ones. The 43M bucket that I had on there from the PO fits on those ears just fine, and is cut away in the back such that it fits in under the ignition switch just fine. So, paint the bucket that was on there, and get on with it...

.

If there are any other absolute and ignorant novices out there (is that possible?), I figure y'all owe me! I'm publicly revealing my ignorance so that you can quietly lurk and get answers to dumb questions without looking like fools!

SD750F · « **Reply #51 on:** December 28, 2006, 08:19:36 PM »

Medic09,

Your right on! If you do not have a buzzer/horn, then you will have the two wires you indicated... Great sounds like you are almost there! And with the larger head light shell (bucket), all the wires fit inside!? Yes that is what I said... And they are sometimes all placed inside of a harness bag inside the shell!

Scott

P.S. There are never stupid questions, but there can be stupid answers...

medic09 · « **Reply #52 on:** December 28, 2006, 09:19:55 PM »

Just a coupla pics of the headlight shells I was talking about.

The one on the left is the 20M. That was sold to me as the stock bucket for a '78 K model. Came complete with fork ears and lamp. The one on the right is what was on my bike when I bought it at the end of August. It's marked 43M. They're both Honda items. You can see the difference in terms of access for wiring.

Does anyone know anything about these? What bike is the HM-43M actually for?

seaweb11 · « **Reply #53 on:** December 28, 2006, 09:45:03 PM »

The one on the left is correct for 78

medic09 · « **Reply #54 on:** December 28, 2006, 09:48:22 PM »

Quote from: seaweb11 on December 28, 2006, 09:45:03 PM

The one on the left is correct for 78

You can see how much easier the 43M is to get all the wiring in and sorted out. Less protection from the elements it seems. What was that Scott said about a harness bag? Haven't seen one of those...

Snowing down here nicely now. How's it on the island?

seaweb11 · « **Reply #55 on:** December 28, 2006, 10:32:38 PM »

medic09 · « **Reply #56 on:** December 29, 2006, 05:53:10 AM »

Quote from: medic09 on December 28, 2006, 07:28:52 PM

you said that the two front signals have three wires. At first I was confused. I know I've got only two. The I realized...I'm working with the bucket off the bike. The two grounds are integral to the bucket, and the two coming out of each signal lamp are for signals and running lights

On second thought, that doesn't seem right. The signals have only two wires coming from them. The signal stems are mounted on a different place on the ears than the headlight shell. The shell does have grounds mounted on either side, but they're nowhere near the signals.

bryanj · « **Reply #57 on:** December 29, 2006, 06:53:48 AM »

The ears are usually rubber mounted to the legs and as such need a ground wire if the blinkers, which ground via the chromed steel stem, are to work. Not certain which shell should be yours as the K8 never came to UK but the F2 had a plastic box just under the tank on the LH side where all the connectors went

bryanj · « **Reply #58 on:** December 29, 2006, 06:59:09 AM »

Just re-read my post and to try and make it clearer ground path is as follows:-

casing that the bulb fits into to main housing via a thin braided strap seen with lens off (can corrode at bulb fitting)

via indicator mount to fork ear

via shell mounting bolt to nut inside shell (which has a green wire attached)

Green wire to loom and then main ground

SD750F · « **Reply #59 on:** December 29, 2006, 07:13:24 AM »

Medic09,

Most likely the front signals you have are not stock. The 78 K and F series both had front running lights standard as indicated by your harness. Also the bucket you pictured on the right is the F or Super Sport light housing. Both should contain the wires on the harness head. Yes maybe tight, but they will fit with consideration before you begin...

Packing and moving I go....

Scott

bryanj · « **Reply #60 on:** December 29, 2006, 07:28:52 AM »

Not sure about the shells but the carbs in the background look like F2 with accelerator pump, was that standard on K8?

medic09 · « **Reply #61 on:** December 29, 2006, 07:41:50 AM »

Those carbs aren't off of my bike. I got them cheap to tear into by way of learning, before working on my precious carbs. I was told that they came off of a '78 K model. That's why I bought them. And I figured $40 was cheap tuition to pay, compared to what might otherwise happen to the carbs on my bike.

The only other carbs I've ever worked on are the Amals for a Triumph that I'm slowly working on (on hold at the moment). Those I did with the PO, who really knows what he's doing. He's walking me through the rest of that project. So far, I've found mechanical stuff somewhat less confusing than electrical stuff.

medic09 · « **Reply #62 on:** December 29, 2006, 02:21:40 PM »

BREAKTHROUGH!

sort of...

I put the headlight shell from the F model back on, and started connecting wires. First I isolated all the grounds (green) and banded them together, so I could easily find them in the compressed rat's nest. My battery wasn't providing much power, so I put it on the charger. Eventually got to point where idiot lights work, starter works; still no running light circuit (head, tail, running lights). Kept puzzling over this to no avail.

While looking for fuses, I came across the F model harness that Tom/El Cheapo had sent me (in good shape as promised!). Looking at it, I saw something that Scott had mentioned but I didn't grasp because I hadn't seen it on my wiring. Scott said: "...the 7A taillight fuse that is supplied by a Brown/Blue wire at the harness head that is, now get this, attached to a Black 2-3 way connector which is a ignition switched 12V supply..."

Well, I couldn't find any such thing in my wiring, but there it was on the harness Tom had sent! So I took out the short length with the two male connectors from the F harness and put into my mess.

Eureka! Headlight, running lights, taillight, and instrument lights all came to life. There's something wrong at the tail, probably where the PO hastily put in wires to run to the hardbag mounted lights. I'll get to that later. The battery gave out right after this revelation. Cheap Wal-Mart junk. I'll replace it with a proper bike battery later. The key thing is: Houston, we have some progress.

There's more to come, but in the meantime I just had to say thanks to y'all for hanging in there and talking me through this. No more working on this till Sat night (after the Sabbath, or Shabbat as we call it).

Woohoo!

TomC · « **Reply #63 on:** December 29, 2006, 05:41:38 PM »

Hi Medic09
"Cheap Wal-Mart junk" Today seems to be my day to stand up for not spending a lot of money on fancy name brands. The PO put a Wal*Mart battery in my daily rider Yamaha some time before I bought it. After owning it for four years the battery died. My guess is that if I had done a better job of checking the water level that battery might still be working. So I went to Wal*Mart and got another battery. I find that checking the water level is a real pain. I take the battery out. Then I put the battery on my work bench with a light behind it. Then I tilt the battery so that I can see the water/acid move so that I can judge it's level. Maybe if I had a high priced battery it would be easer to check the water level?
Keep up the good work on your wiring.
TomC

SD750F · « **Reply #64 on:** December 29, 2006, 08:06:29 PM »

Medic09,

Great to hear, "Houston the Eagle has landed!"...

Scott

medic09 · « **Reply #65 on:** December 30, 2006, 05:05:04 PM »

Quote from: TomC on December 29, 2006, 05:41:38 PM

Hi Medic09
"Cheap Wal-Mart junk" Today seems to be my day to stand up for not spending a lot of money on fancy name brands. The PO put a Wal*Mart battery in my daily rider Yamaha some time before I bought it. After owning it for four years the battery died. My guess is that if I had done a better job of checking the water level that battery might still be working. So I went to Wal*Mart and got another battery. I find that checking the water level is a real pain. I take the battery out. Then I put the battery on my work bench with a light behind it. Then I tilt the battery so that I can see the water/acid move so that I can judge it's level. Maybe if I had a high priced battery it would be easer to check the water level?
Keep up the good work on your wiring.
TomC

So Tom, after I posted I thought to myself "self, since you bought the bike in August you've never checked electrolyte levels in the battery, though you have charged it a few times. Hmmm...."

Sure enough, two of the cells were way below the levels of the others. Can't tell a thing just looking at the translucent sides, but from above through the caps it's pretty obvious. Topped them off with distilled water, and put it on the charger for the last 24 hrs. We'll see.

This goes along with "no power? check the on switch." "No power? Check the battery."

It's all learning curve.

Scott,

If I hadn't looked at that other harness, there's NO WAY I would have known what you're talking about. It doesn't seem apparrent to me from the diagrams (I've collected a few now!). What am I missing?

Pager going off...

Thanks all!

medic09 · « **Reply #66 on:** December 30, 2006, 09:35:15 PM »

Okay, everything's running it seems. Now left with just a few little questions.

1. Is there any way to neaten up the rat's nest in the headlight shell? Seriously, when I go to put the sealed-beam in it just crams back against all the wiring until it finally sets in. Then the mass of wires is sort of pushing back out against it. It seems to me there must be a little better way to do this, but I haven't figured it out.

2. Turns out the bucket that I have is from an F model. The K has a hole in the top for a retaining screw into the sealed-beam, in addition to the two screws at about 4 and 7 o'clock. Is there a different headlamp for the F model bucket? It seems to me that the top of the lamp isn't held in very well the way I have it now.

Other than that, I now have running lights front and rear. The PO had wired the lights on the old Bates bags to work as running lights and turn signals. I had to splice in a fresh section of wiring where he had worked. I kept his press-on connectors just for now, but later on I think I'll look for a multi-socket bullet connector to stick in there. Stores around here didn't have them. Just have to clean up the headlamp, replace a bulb in a Bates bag, and on to the next bit of work.

My next thread will be begging for help with my carbs.

Seriously, thanks all for your patience and help. I've definately learned some.

seaweb11 · « **Reply #67 on:** December 31, 2006, 12:07:36 AM »

You should NOT have rear running lights. Illegal in most states.
disconect them.

medic09 · « **Reply #68 on:** December 31, 2006, 06:50:00 AM »

I'll have to check that. I thought I had seen that as long as they're red (like the regular taillight), they're legal. It does add to noticability, as long as the Bates bags are mounted.

Thanks for the warning!

medic09 · « **Reply #69 on:** December 31, 2006, 04:37:36 PM »

Quote from: medic09 on December 30, 2006, 09:35:15 PM

Okay, everything's running it seems. Now left with just a few little questions.

1. Is there any way to neaten up the rat's nest in the headlight shell? Seriously, when I go to put the sealed-beam in it just crams back against all the wiring until it finally sets in. Then the mass of wires is sort of pushing back out against it. It seems to me there must be a little better way to do this, but I haven't figured it out.

2. Turns out the bucket that I have is from an F model. The K has a hole in the top for a retaining screw into the sealed-beam, in addition to the two screws at about 4 and 7 o'clock. Is there a different headlamp for the F model bucket? It seems to me that the top of the lamp isn't held in very well the way I have it now.

Other than that, I now have running lights front and rear. The PO had wired the lights on the old Bates bags to work as running lights and turn signals. I had to splice in a fresh section of wiring where he had worked. I kept his press-on connectors just for now, but later on I think I'll look for a multi-socket bullet connector to stick in there. Stores around here didn't have them. Just have to clean up the headlamp, replace a bulb in a Bates bag, and on to the next bit of work.

My next thread will be begging for help with my carbs.

Seriously, thanks all for your patience and help. I've definately learned some.

Bump.

So, no suggestions how I can finish up this job neatly? And, do I need to drill a hole in that bucket for the top retaining screw on the sealed-beam?

Finally, I can't find anywhere female bullet connectors with four sockets. They used to exist; there are some on my bike now. Vintage Connections and anyplace else I found so far have only the doubles or singles. Anyone have access to a source for a few of these?

Thanks!

seaweb11 · « **Reply #70 on:** December 31, 2006, 05:20:23 PM »

Ever seen the wire in behind a house outlet?

Just cram it all back in and install the light. If your light requires 3 screws and your bucket only has 2, I don't see why drilling a hole would hurt.

Happy new year.

750goes · « **Reply #71 on:** December 31, 2006, 05:34:09 PM »

Try and tape the same circuit wires together - just like your harness- but only a single wrap of insulating tape and not over the connecting pieces - it takes a bit of time but will enable you to sort each circuit out, then you don't feel so bad when stuffing it all back in....
The "F" early models came with an additional plastic box mounted off the frame on the left hand side just under the tank, I believe this was used to gather some of the wiring harness together -which may be the result of why you have many wires crammed in there.

You've done well......

happy new year

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Author Topic: need wiring harness help '78 K (Read 11216 times)