Topic: How to polish question? TIPs wanted

[motomotard]

I want to polish some engine cover stuff etc...

Id like to get some tips on how to do it. What tools and materials are necessary? Buffer and polish or what.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

[seaweb11]

I use 10-40 oil in my bike

On a serious side, do search for engine case polishing.

[333]

Start with wet/dry sand paper.  If you have gouges or scratches to remove start with the more coarse grades(200-400).  work your way to the finer grades (800-1000).  If you don't have scratches you can start with those fine grades.  I like using a Dremel tool for polishing, but a small buffing wheel on a drill might do.  I have 3 suggestions for polish.  Simichrome or Honda Metal Polish both come in tubes, and will do a fine job.  How could you go wrong with the Honda name?  I'm not sure it's made anymore, but Mothers made a polish in a small plastic tub (about 1 1/2 inch diameter) that worked well also.

I once took a unfinished part on my Trail 70(the carb manifold) and made it look like chrome.  For those unfamiliar, picture a single cylinder engine about 15 degrees from parallel with the ground, and the manifold comes from the top and curves to hold the carb level.  This manifold comes so rough that it had mold marks top and bottom almost 1/8".  I filed those off and started the sanding process.  When I was done, I could see my (curved) reflection.

[motomotard]

So buffing wheel and a polish. Sounds good. Ive only got an electric drill, im sure a bench grinder would be better, but ill try w/ what i got.

Where can i find the polishes? Advanced Auto maybe?

[Klark Kent]

online suppliers or your local moto-shop are the only places to get all the best make bike pretty gak (nevr dull, blue magic, etc.)  if you go to advancedautozoneboys you will end up making compromises.  sure the internets a scary place and the local shop wont even work on your bike and marks stuff up to cover a silly old fashioned thing like overhead, but autowalmart is always gonna leave you wanting.  that said i get my oil filters from walmart.  one thing that isnt mentioned enough is something you can get at your local supramarket.  aluminum (aluminium for our uk kontingent) freaking foil.  thats right, sammich saving muthah#$%*ing tin foil.  a little wd-40 and you are somehow seemingly replating chrome, and i suppose engine alumin(i)um althugh i cant remember using it on my cases.  the cordless drill buffing wheel and compunds (hardwware store) will be tedious but get the job done as well.  liquid glass is awesome for bringing out the 30+ year old colors in our painted parts- neighbor actually asked me if i repainted mine after the first application of this stuff.  i think you can get that at napa or possibly advancedauto.

seaweb- it almost seemed like you were saying that using wd-40 was a bad thing.  i use dubbleyadeeforty to clean my scoot.  its always around at work and seems to protect from dust and the resulting oxidation from moisture collected by that dust.  any wet sanding or tin foiling is usually assisted by the lbricating properties of that 40th combination of petroleum distillates and magic.  please tell me i am just projecting my own sarcasm onto your words.  it happens from time to ti me. 

and yeah do a search


edit: i just reread that you were talking about 10w-40, but wish to let my testimony about WD-40 remain- only to ammend with a warning against posting when drunk, which you should never ever do because you might make foolish mistakes.

[FunJimmy]

If you have a bench grinder you’re almost there.

Call your local NAPA dealer or equivalent and purchase a 6” spiral sewn buffing wheel. ¾” wide will work magic.
Purchase Tripoli Brown buffing compound for all buffing except the absolute chrome look.
A chrome finish will require a final buff with white rouge. Naturally a second buffing wheel (one for each different compound) will also be required, so if you’re on a budget start with the Tripoli compound and assess the results prior to purchasing additional wheels and compounds.

You might look here: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2007/Main/177
And here: http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2007/Main/184

Finally have fun!

[rhinoracer]

It's not the buffing wheel and paste.

You really have to start with the 200 grit sandpaper and work your way thru the different grains like 333 said.

Once the surface is smooth and shiny from the 1000 grit paper apply the cloth wheel with some white polishing compound. You'll get a mirror finish immediately.

If you want to bring a shine from a cast aluminum part by just buffing it you'll just get frustrated, unless you have several types of wheels and different grain compounds and work your way same as with the sandpaper.

[736cc]

It depends on what you want as a final result; restored back to original or razzle-dazzle customized.
I just strip the factory clear w/ Zip-strip paint remover, etch the parts w/ hydroflouric acid (Mothers Wire Wheel Cleaner) while rubbing w/ 000 steel wool. (Use HD rubber gloves, eye protection and work upwind w/ these harsh chems). Then I buff the aluminum w/ 000 followed by 0000 using Penetrol as a lubricant and rubbing in a parrallel motion (DON'T ADD ANY ALUMINUM POLISH- JUST ADD PENETROL!). Rinse thoroughly between steps w/ S-100 and water. Give the parts a final coating of Eastwood Clear rattle can. This system leaves the aluminum close to the oem factory satin-finish look.
If you buff w/ wet and dry sandpaper, power tools and aluminum polish, the parts come out dazzling but, in my opinion, way too-shiny and overdone for a correct restoration.

[rbmgf7]

without having to go too far or order anything off line, to get a mirror/chrome like finish i got everything from Lowes and Wally World.

Wally World:
600/800/1000/1500 grit wet sand paper (automotive section)
black and decker dremel with either s/s or brass brush (the B&D brand was a deal. $25 and has 3 variable speeds while the next Dremel brand rotary tool costs $50 to do the same. the B&D accepts dremel brand tools too). plus, this will come in handy whenever you get around to do that port and polishing job 

Lowes:
6" buffing wheel
polishing compund (the green stick)

i was fortunate enough to already have a buffer machine. look around at flea markets or auctions. you can get them next to nothing.

i begin with 600 to get out the deeper scratches, 800 to smooth it out, 1000 to give it a nice matte finish, and 1500 to remove any marks left by the 1000. while sanding, i use either water or wd40 as a lube. clean the part thoroughly with mineral spirits or some other solvent. i use the dremel to polish hard to reach spots. the brushes will almost give a finishing polish right off the bat. now, just buff. here's my KZ cases once i finished:



after 1000 miles of high engine heat and weather they still hold their luster. if they begin to dull, just get a soft rag and some sort of liquid polish (i use Blue Magic. dabble a little on the rag, rub til it turns black, and wipe off).

it's a lot of work but hey, hard work pays off 

Good luck!

[333]

So buffing wheel and a polish. Sounds good. Ive only got an electric drill, im sure a bench grinder would be better, but ill try w/ what i got.

Where can i find the polishes? Advanced Auto maybe?

Your local bike shop is best.  Advanced Auto might have the Simichrome, and should have the Mothers.

And yes, a bench grinder would work, but you could always clamp your drill in a vise.  If you do this, make sure the surface is rotating down.  If the piece gets away from you, you want it to hit the floor, not your face.