oh yeah, Air/Fuel ratio was lean at the bottom, but by about 3000 rpm, it was no higher than 12 nor lower than 11, which the Mikuni manual says should be all right. So at least I shouldn't hole any pistons. I'll get the low range re-jetted.
Check cruising speed A/F ratio on the dyno is my recommendation for a street bike. You will use yours on the street too?
I had too rich needles that was revealed on dyno when the dyno guy checked the cruising behavior which is most important on a street bike. Earlier dyno runs were mostly WOT to check max power and A/F ratio.
Slowly increased throttle from 2000-6000 rpm. A/F ratio below 12. I lowered the needles 1 step but it was still too rich when cruising around in normal speeds in city and country roads, stuttering followed by bangs at decelerations. I lowered the needles 1 step more and finally bike ran really nice and even. I got it verified on dyno too. (plugs look better!)
I had too lean at WOT on 2 carbs. Same I had adjusted the fuel level on by clear tube. I changed back to make all 4 to use same main jet sizes.
All above can be seen on 3 dyno runs:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,147350.msg1953508.html#msg1953508- Compression test show 220PSI? That's a lot! Without cam?
I measured my last rebuild and got 175PSI, cam DP315. I guess the overlap reduce some. My 836 had around 190 with Action Fourss SS-1 cam with less overlap.
I hope this will help you to find the perfect tuning!
