Author Topic: Frame mod cb 750 (Read 75603 times)

754 · « **Reply #225 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:30:05 pm »

Yes I have 1 or two left. You can pm me your address thru this forum (if it works) for shipping price.
Or email me at
dodogas99@gmail.com

PeWe · « **Reply #226 on:** January 31, 2014, 03:28:51 am »

This kit will really save a lot of work and scratches on frame, engine and mashed fingers!
Change cam when I want new funny experience.
I'm in too!!

- Any extra wobble to expect?
Something else that can be done with the frame to improve the stiffness here?

ZanVooden · « **Reply #227 on:** February 03, 2014, 12:29:52 pm »

Frank

Sent you a pm and Paypal. These look great.

PeWe · « **Reply #228 on:** February 04, 2014, 01:54:46 am »

Quote from: Nic on January 29, 2014, 02:02:06 pm

Quote from: KrautKoffin on January 27, 2014, 09:11:05 pm
Frank, do you have any instructions for installation?
Kraut, it's not critical where you cut, here's how I hacked mine out, I left room for the ignition switch at the front, as long as you can remove the cam cover you're good to go. I managed to cut mine without removing the carbs, clearance at the carbs is good, cuts are nice and crooked, doesn't matter. I had to sand off some of the powder coat, 60 grade paper 1" wide with gaff tape backing, was quite easy, Franks joiners are a perfect fit. Hope this helps. Will add a pic of the finished product later.

Do these cuts ensure the possibility to remove head and cylinder?
- Front cut to allow the ignition switch, not longer right?

- Rear, an area of 3 inches in front of on frame welded nuts for carb air filter box. (this will make space for Mikuni VM29)
I hope this will work fine.

Nic · « **Reply #229 on:** February 04, 2014, 02:43:48 am »

Just from that pic it looks like you have more space than the stock carbs?

PeWe · « **Reply #230 on:** February 04, 2014, 03:06:46 am »

Maybe... When I look at your photo it seems to be rather tight. Not same parts of the carbs as VM29.

I think that the rear cut is easy to determine on my bike.
Your front cut is minimum for ignition switch, right? Or even more front if the switch is mounted outside the thicker pipe splice..

I'll see when I get my parts. I'm curious about the measurements to make sure that head, cyl can be removed when needed

Feb 09 EDIT:
I'm planning the cuts in time. New photos when cuts are done and clamps on

Front as forward as possible to avoid long tube stick-out obstructing eventual head and cyl removal. Wrap the ign sw bracket around clamp.
EDIT Mars 15:
The front cut done at 95mm. (35mm after the ignition key switch bracket) OK to remove head without removing the ignition key switch

Phoenix · « **Reply #231 on:** February 07, 2014, 12:16:52 pm »

Frank
Just got them in. B/C to Indy in 7 days. They look great and were well packed. It was really neat following a thread showing a need to a good solution. The Gordon kit is great. Well-engineered and not visible BUt you needed to take the engine out, the frame finish was hurt to the point of having to paint it, it had to be welded-some of you guys can weld it beautifully, I can't, and you can't go back to the original frame. I don't like Carpy's solution with out tying to the top rail and the fit issues. To me, Frank's solution addressed all these points at a fair price. Thank God for this website.

ZanVooden · « **Reply #232 on:** February 07, 2014, 12:25:11 pm »

Just received mine as well. Looks great.

Amazing work.

Thanks

Bailgang · « **Reply #233 on:** February 10, 2014, 02:24:17 pm »

Mine arrived today. Everything was well packaged.
Great work Frank.

754 · « **Reply #234 on:** February 14, 2014, 03:34:42 pm »

New batch will be ready Monday,the already ordered will go out then.

I reviewed the pricing, they will be 140.00 US plus shipping.

750K · « **Reply #235 on:** February 14, 2014, 03:38:36 pm »

Right on Frank, pump em out! Everyone should grab a set of these as far as I'm concerned.

sethdhawkins · « **Reply #236 on:** February 16, 2014, 03:17:52 am »

Frank, has anyone fitted these with the RS34's? I'd love to have a set.

754 · « **Reply #237 on:** February 16, 2014, 09:40:26 am »

Seth, figure out how much clearance you have between Carb top and frame. You can check this by rolling a drill bit around the frame.. Is it a clearance problem only on one? You needless than 3/16 room.
Measure the distance from interference point to weld at rear of frame tube.
It sounds like it will work, if you can take, the carb top off the carb, while in the frame. Failing that carb, can be lowered, but probably. Not necessary.

sethdhawkins · « **Reply #238 on:** February 16, 2014, 10:55:56 am »

I'm at work at the moment (17 days to go), how's this look? I've got plenty of clearance to pull carb tops. I've got a gusset at the rear that would be the only snag.

MCRider · « **Reply #239 on:** February 16, 2014, 11:04:33 am »

Seth: Where did you get the cam cover breather?

sethdhawkins · « **Reply #240 on:** February 16, 2014, 11:08:20 am »

It was either from dynoman, cyclex, or dime city, don't quite remember. It's the expensive one, not the cheapo.

MCRider · « **Reply #241 on:** February 16, 2014, 11:23:56 am »

Quote from: sethdhawkins on February 16, 2014, 11:08:20 am

It was either from dynoman, cyclex, or dime city, don't quite remember. It's the expensive one, not the cheapo.

Thanks I'll take a look.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #242 on:** February 18, 2014, 11:45:57 pm »

Quote from: sethdhawkins on February 16, 2014, 10:55:56 am

I'm at work at the moment (17 days to go), how's this look? I've got plenty of clearance to pull carb tops. I've got a gusset at the rear that would be the only snag.

How does it run with those carbs mate? I've got a new set of 31mm CR's here, but haven't put them on because the last set I had (29mm) were a biatch. Cheers, Terry.

sethdhawkins · « **Reply #243 on:** February 19, 2014, 12:46:52 am »

Terry,

I haven't gotten them perfect yet, but I think I like 'em. I think there's room for improvement. I've got about 2,500 miles on the carbs and the motor. I posted info here:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=122398

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #244 on:** February 19, 2014, 01:18:22 am »

Thanks Seth, I'll check it out. Cheers, Terry.

sethdhawkins · « **Reply #245 on:** February 19, 2014, 04:09:13 am »

You're welcome, Terry! Buy a set, and figure 'em out for me

Frank, PM sent! These things look gorgeous, I can't pass them up.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #246 on:** February 19, 2014, 02:14:13 pm »

Quote from: sethdhawkins on February 19, 2014, 04:09:13 am

You're welcome, Terry! Buy a set, and figure 'em out for me

Frank, PM sent! These things look gorgeous, I can't pass them up.

Have a chat to Dave {DoctorD} on the forum, he has his sorted...

He has access to a dyno at Twinline motorcycles, i'm sure that helps....

sethdhawkins · « **Reply #247 on:** February 19, 2014, 04:24:16 pm »

I started with David, he's the one that got me onto them. What worked for him, didn't work for me. The way of the carb

PeWe · « **Reply #248 on:** March 01, 2014, 02:38:53 pm »

Did it today!

I got help of an old biker friend where to place the front cuts. Rear cut, one alternative as I see it to fit the VM29's.
I saw that it must be possible to lift head off and after that cylinder block without any problems. The front pipes can have rather long stick-out without blocking the disassembly.

I have treated the pipes with paint removal slurry when the clamps are rather tight. Tomorrow grind the pipes and spray thin layer of primer to avoid future rust.
After that a test assembly, then open the head cover, check cam timing off with the cam....

Nic · « **Reply #249 on:** March 01, 2014, 03:20:01 pm »

No turnin back now mate

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Author Topic: Frame mod cb 750 (Read 75603 times)

Nic

Nic