Topic: Frame mod cb 750

[ZanVooden]

Frank

Sent you a pm and Paypal. These look great.

[PeWe]

Frank, do you have any instructions for installation?

Kraut, it's not critical where you cut, here's how I hacked mine out, I left room for the ignition switch at the front, as long as you can remove the cam cover you're good to go. I managed to cut mine without removing the carbs, clearance at the carbs is good, cuts are nice and crooked, doesn't matter. I had to sand off some of the powder coat, 60 grade paper 1" wide with gaff tape backing, was quite easy, Franks joiners are a perfect fit. Hope this helps. Will add a pic of the finished product later.

Do these cuts ensure the possibility to remove head and cylinder?
- Front cut to allow the ignition switch, not longer right?

- Rear, an area of 3 inches in front of on frame welded nuts for carb air filter box. (this will make space for Mikuni VM29)
I hope this will work fine.

[Nic]

Just from that pic it looks like you have more space than the stock carbs?

[PeWe]

Maybe... When I look at your photo it seems to be rather tight. Not same parts of the carbs as VM29.

I think that the rear cut is easy to determine on my bike.
Your front cut is minimum for ignition switch, right? Or even more front if the switch is mounted outside the thicker pipe splice..

I'll see when I get my parts. I'm curious about the measurements to make sure that head, cyl can be removed when needed

Feb 09 EDIT:
I'm planning the cuts in time. New photos when cuts are done and clamps on

Front as forward as possible to avoid long tube stick-out obstructing eventual head and cyl removal. Wrap the ign sw bracket around clamp.
EDIT Mars 15:
The front cut done at 95mm. (35mm after the ignition key switch bracket) OK to remove head without removing the ignition key switch

[Phoenix]

Frank
Just got them in.  B/C to Indy in 7 days.  They look great and were well packed.  It was really neat following a thread showing a need to a good solution.  The Gordon kit is great.  Well-engineered and not visible BUt you needed to take the engine out, the frame finish was hurt to the point of having to paint it, it had to be welded-some of you guys can weld it beautifully, I can't, and you can't go back to the original frame. I don't like Carpy's solution with out tying to the top rail and the fit issues.  To me, Frank's solution addressed all these points at a fair price.  Thank God for this website.

[ZanVooden]

Just received mine as well. Looks great.

Amazing work.

Thanks

[Bailgang]

Mine arrived today. Everything was well packaged.
Great work Frank.

[754]

New batch will be ready Monday,the already ordered will go out then.

 I reviewed the pricing, they will be 140.00 US plus shipping.

[750K]

Right on Frank, pump em out! Everyone should grab a set of these as far as I'm concerned.

[sethdhawkins]

Frank, has anyone fitted these with the RS34's? I'd love to have a set.

[754]

Seth,  figure out how much clearance you have between Carb top and frame. You can check this by rolling a drill bit around the frame.. Is it a clearance problem only on one? You needless than 3/16 room.
 Measure the distance from interference point to weld at rear of frame tube.
 It sounds like it will work, if you can take,  the carb top off the carb, while in the frame.  Failing that carb, can be lowered, but probably. Not necessary.

[sethdhawkins]

I'm at work at the moment (17 days to go), how's this look? I've got plenty of clearance to pull carb tops. I've got a gusset at the rear that would be the only snag.

[MCRider]

Seth: Where did you get the cam cover breather?

[sethdhawkins]

It was either from dynoman, cyclex, or dime city, don't quite remember. It's the expensive one, not the cheapo.

[MCRider]

It was either from dynoman, cyclex, or dime city, don't quite remember. It's the expensive one, not the cheapo.

Thanks I'll take a look.

[Terry in Australia]

I'm at work at the moment (17 days to go), how's this look? I've got plenty of clearance to pull carb tops. I've got a gusset at the rear that would be the only snag.

How does it run with those carbs mate? I've got a new set of 31mm CR's here, but haven't put them on because the last set I had (29mm) were a biatch. Cheers, Terry.

[sethdhawkins]

Terry,

I haven't gotten them perfect yet, but I think I like 'em. I think there's room for improvement. I've got about 2,500 miles on the carbs and the motor. I posted info here:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=122398

[Terry in Australia]

Thanks Seth, I'll check it out. Cheers, Terry.

[sethdhawkins]

You're welcome, Terry! Buy a set, and figure 'em out for me

Frank, PM sent! These things look gorgeous, I can't pass them up.

[Retro Rocket]

You're welcome, Terry! Buy a set, and figure 'em out for me

Frank, PM sent! These things look gorgeous, I can't pass them up.

Have a chat to Dave {DoctorD} on the forum, he has his sorted...   He has access to a dyno at Twinline motorcycles, i'm sure that helps....

[sethdhawkins]

I started with David, he's the one that got me onto them. What worked for him, didn't work for me. The way of the carb

[PeWe]

Did it today!
I got help of an old biker friend where to place the front cuts. Rear cut, one alternative as I see it to fit the VM29's.
I saw that it must be possible to lift head off and after that cylinder block without any problems. The front pipes can have rather long stick-out without blocking the disassembly.

I have treated the pipes with paint removal slurry when the clamps are rather tight. Tomorrow grind the pipes and spray thin layer of primer to avoid future rust.
After that a test assembly, then open the head cover, check cam timing off with the cam....


 

[Nic]

No turnin back now mate

[PeWe]

No turnin back now mate

Almost...
But it look turned back 
Look really good and more technical than before 
Tight fit. I had to grind the paint off completely. Pipes at rear cut were slightly oval which caused extra tight fit. I had to grind extra and used valve lapping compound under the clamps that I rotated around to grind them to looser fit. The lapping compound is still visible not cleaned.

The front cut area can probably be covered by a thin layer of primer but I think I'll use copper paste to rub into the metal surfaces. Maybe use heat gun and give it a burn into the metal to avoid future rust. I'll might find something else.

Soon continue to make the top end work I need to do.
It will be much easier to switch cam... and mor fun...
Cam timing: It must be possible to have bike on a jack/wood support (I have no center stand)
Rotate the rear wheel with 1:st or 2:nd gear in to move the crank (no plugs). Degree wheel on ignition side and no need of open alternator cover.

[Nic]

When I did mine one of the rear frame tubes must have moved a bee's dick after the cuts and it was a wrestle to get the last rear clamp on, while I could get them on with a lot of effort I decided to cut the bottom of the triangle, I then fitted all 4 clamps, tack welded the bottom triangle, took the whole H section off and finished welding the bottom triangle, the clamps fit very easy now.
 It was only out .5 mil but it made it hard to get the last rear clamp on. Out of round tubes would be more drama than what I had to go through. Good luck with that.
I took my gear selector cover and alt cover off to do cam timing. It wasn't too much effort. I left the alt wiring connected and just suspended the cover to the frame with some wire. Only a small amount of oil came from the gear selector cover. My engine won't even turn over by the points nut so I did it via the alt.
The biggest PITA I reckon is using the hex key on those 20 bolts, after a while it get's to be quite painful and slow so I welded hex keys into 1/4" drive sockets and made a Tee bar from a 1/4" drive extension. The way to go. While I was at it I made up another socket with the #3 impact bit.
Frank used imperial bolts unfortunately, my only complaint.