Author Topic: 1978 CB750F - Metric Mayhem" (Read 62646 times)

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #175 on:** January 06, 2012, 10:17:23 AM »

Rear set info on my bike. I don't have a good image of my set but this is basically them. The only difference is the bracket is black, and there is no rubber on the pegs. Only metal.

They are Raask Rearsets and were purchased at Omar's. www.rearsets.info

They are not actually for the F2 model, because I wanted to get rid of those big aluminum brackets. These will fit the K. That is why I had to shorten the swing arm bolt, and I will also have to shorten the lower rear motor mount bolt.

Here is a mock up of how they sit. (link to high res image here http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5222/5657093934_f4691c2ca4_o.jpg )

Freaky1 · « **Reply #176 on:** January 11, 2012, 09:12:55 AM »

Maybe a close up picture of them on your bike? I've already committed to the ones I have on The Beast but I'm always interested in different ideas. My biggest question is, when removing the giant aluminum hunk, you loose the pivot point for the rear brake lever and I'd like to see how you resolved this.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #177 on:** January 11, 2012, 12:58:42 PM »

I don't have a close up photo of mine installed, but this is how they work. This is also how mine look. Same color and finish. They have the same placement as the K model with those brackets out of the way.

Here is a link to more photos of the rearsets on that bike by DTT member Kuyarico:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=3995.0

lucky · « **Reply #178 on:** January 11, 2012, 02:12:56 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on February 17, 2010, 02:15:36 AM

I agree with Lloyd (Two Tired) that good original bikes should be revered, not trashed, and I hate those jerks who say, "I own this bike, so I can do what the hell I like with it", when someone tells them that they've just ruined another classic, it's like buying the Mona Lisa and wiping your butt on it.

Having said that, if you're starting with something that someone else has already trashed, then the only way is up. I built my K1 Kruiser entireley from parts I bought off EBay, or swap meets, or from you guys. I started out with a bare K1 frame with no swingarm, and a K6 engine that a mate found for me at a swap meet. It still looks a little "ratty", but considering that the 836cc race engine I built for it will do 120 MPH @ 11,000 RPM in third gear, I don't get too much ragging, even from modern bike owners.

I had an F2 10 years ago and loved it but sold it to buy something better, so when I saw another ratty F2 on EBay 5 years ago I bought it, even though it was a wreck. It was so bad I could only use the bottom end of the engine and the frame and wheels, and spent 5 or 6 grand on parts and restoration. I could have saved some bucks and "Cafe'd" it and that would have been OK too, but I decided that I wanted an original (with sensible mods) F2 that I could enjoy for years to come.

Main thing for everyone here to remember, is that it doesn't matter what style of bike that you go for (I'd like to "Kong" a 750 next) the main thing is that you finish it. I've seen so many build threads here that start and don't go anywhere, and next thing those bikes have been parted out and the "builders" have moved on, achieving nothing. All the best mate, get it done, and show us the finished result! Cheers, Terry.

Great job on both bikes!
It is easy to spend 6 grand on one of these old bikes.
The only good thing is you can build it a little at a time.

At least this 78 CB750F(scroggins5000) (Super Sport FTW) has a dad with a machine shop!!!
A huge advantage. The garage is fine. Just right . It will heat up quickly. LOL

lucky · « **Reply #179 on:** January 11, 2012, 02:23:40 PM »

Quote from: Retro Rocket on February 15, 2011, 01:59:47 PM

Its a pity that you didn't see Tintops new "antipod" filter, they use the stock velocity stacks mated to a new filter and are far better than pods....

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=79491.75

Scroll down and have a look......

Mick

Thanks for telling us about the anti-pods. ITA

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #180 on:** January 12, 2012, 09:37:12 AM »

Quote from: lucky on January 11, 2012, 02:12:56 PM

At least this 78 CB750F(scroggins5000) (Super Sport FTW) has a dad with a machine shop!!!
A huge advantage. The garage is fine. Just right . It will heat up quickly. LOL

I've tried to use the machine shop as little as possible. The shop is always extremely busy, so I try not to bother them with work they won't get paid for

They also have to get an outside guy to bore out motorcycle engines, because their equipment isn't small enough. Most of the work, and all the motor assembly was done in the garage.

I have been very grateful to the vast amount of knowledge shared and the vast amount of help I have been getting throughout this build. Being my first build, if I was doing this all on my own, I probably would have taken the easy way out, and given up on this bike a long time ago. One day it will be done, and it will be done right. That's all I care about.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #181 on:** March 08, 2012, 09:47:14 AM »

Today I am driving down to Houston, and will be spending 3 full days working on the bike with my friend Aaron who has been helping me with this project. He has the bike in his garage/shop, because I just don't have the room for a place to work on it right now.

I can't believe it, but I just realized it has been over a year since this bike has had any work done to it. It has been moved a couple of times, and constantly put on the back burner due to lack of time and resources. I really want to get it done, but more importantly I want it done right. The next major step is wiring, and then the rest is just getting it buttoned up and running.

This is what is left on my to do list:

-Clutch install
-Compression test
-Install carbs
-Wiring harness
-Shorten the bottom rear engine mount bolt (because I removed the original peg brackets, and am using K model rear sets)
-Install rear sets
-Install brake light / turn signals
-Brakes (rebuild & install)
-Install the license plate bracket
-Install steering damper
-Custom passenger pegs (for the Mrs.)
-Add fluids
-Get the damn thing running
-Sync Carbs
-Get insurance
-Register it
-Get inspected
-Ride it till the wheels fall off

lucky · « **Reply #182 on:** March 08, 2012, 11:38:52 AM »

It is great that you now have a small shop.
I would never want to live in one of those apts that you are not allowed to do anything. !@$@#% squirrel cages!!!

That swing arm bolt does not have enough threads on it for the nut to lock.
Try buying a locking jam nut which is thinner.

lucky · « **Reply #183 on:** March 09, 2012, 08:59:47 AM »

Quote from: scroggins5000 on February 01, 2010, 09:23:20 AM

Well I am going to have the frame, rims and some other pieces re-done. They will be sandblasted and powder coated. I'm getting a good deal on the powder coat, so I decided I should go ahead and get it done. The color scheme is going to stay the same.

The frame will be a metallic flake red instead of just a standard red. Everything else that is black will stay black. Like the rims, triple trees, etc.

The left side cover came in, and the tabs might need to be modified slightly (dremel) to ensure a proper fit.

Later on, I am considering the idea of getting the tank, rear fender, and side covers, pin striped by a professional once the bike is nearer to completion. I would like to do red pinstripes to match the frame and accent piping on the seat. Something real simple and clean. Nothing flashy.

Simple, clean, and good workmanship IS Flashy!

lucky · « **Reply #184 on:** March 09, 2012, 09:08:37 AM »

Quote from: afastman on March 10, 2010, 09:15:09 AM

It all depends on teh file format the 3-D printer needs. If it can be done in Sketch-up or a like "simple" program, those take NO skill to operate. Autocad and Rhino are fairly easy to manipulate in 3-d if you have any 2-d drafting experience. It is only the high end stuff that if you are not in an "industry" that utilizes it daily, you might need some training.

Stainless melts at 2500º

The best graphics will not be "3D"(pixels) they will be VECTOR based graphics done in Illustrator or Freehand. That way you can make them any size and the edges will be crystal clear and sharp.

You only want one layer of vinyl for your graphic. If you use a photoshop (3D) document the graphic will not last long in the sun.
If you use vinyl get 3M brand vinyl and it will last a minimum of 5 years.
3M can take the cold and the heat without cracking.
If you want your graphics it to last longer paint them on.

With Illustrator you can use more than one color, but not overlapping.
If the vinyl overlaps it sticks up and does not look good.

Freaky1 · « **Reply #185 on:** March 11, 2012, 07:05:13 AM »

I know all about the "back Burner" thing, I've been at my rebuild way too long to. Hope your three day blast was fruitful and let's see the update!

Flying J · « **Reply #186 on:** March 11, 2012, 12:33:04 PM »

When i ditched the stock pegs i swapped out the long bolt for one off a k model.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #187 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:11:35 AM »

Quote from: lucky on March 09, 2012, 09:08:37 AM

Quote from: afastman on March 10, 2010, 09:15:09 AM
It all depends on teh file format the 3-D printer needs. If it can be done in Sketch-up or a like "simple" program, those take NO skill to operate. Autocad and Rhino are fairly easy to manipulate in 3-d if you have any 2-d drafting experience. It is only the high end stuff that if you are not in an "industry" that utilizes it daily, you might need some training.
Stainless melts at 2500º

The best graphics will not be "3D"(pixels) they will be VECTOR based graphics done in Illustrator or Freehand. That way you can make them any size and the edges will be crystal clear and sharp.

You only want one layer of vinyl for your graphic. If you use a photoshop (3D) document the graphic will not last long in the sun.
If you use vinyl get 3M brand vinyl and it will last a minimum of 5 years.
3M can take the cold and the heat without cracking.
If you want your graphics it to last longer paint them on.

With Illustrator you can use more than one color, but not overlapping.
If the vinyl overlaps it sticks up and does not look good.

I did not print vinyl graphics. I designed custom tank badges and had them 3-D printed out of plastic. 3-D software was necessary or they couldn't have printed it.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #188 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:12:35 AM »

Quote from: lucky on March 08, 2012, 11:38:52 AM

It is great that you now have a small shop.
I would never want to live in one of those apts that you are not allowed to do anything. !@$@#% squirrel cages!!!

That swing arm bolt does not have enough threads on it for the nut to lock.
Try buying a locking jam nut which is thinner.

I don't think the nut was tightened down in that photo, but I will take that into consideration if that's the case. Thanks.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #189 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:16:22 AM »

Quote from: ffJMoore on March 11, 2012, 12:33:04 PM

When i ditched the stock pegs i swapped out the long bolt for one off a k model.

What's the length of the K model bolt you got? Also, where did you pick it up? I was thinking about doing this, but I didn't know if it would be the correct length or not. The other option I was looking at was to buy some all thread and just cut it to fit.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #190 on:** March 12, 2012, 10:24:06 AM »

Quote from: Freaky1 on March 11, 2012, 07:05:13 AM

I know all about the "back Burner" thing, I've been at my rebuild way too long to. Hope your three day blast was fruitful and let's see the update!

We made some progress, and even pulled an all nighter on saturday. We still didn't get as much done as we wanted to thout. This bike needs lots of attention, and nothing seems to be a simple fix. I spent a long time on the seized brakes, and I need to buy new caliper pistons. The clutch rebuild took a lot of time because of conflicting information from manuals. We also had to stop and repair the garage door at one point because it fell off the tracks. I need to get all the images and video off my camera, and I will be updating soon. Hopefully tonight.

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #191 on:** March 13, 2012, 09:43:49 AM »

PHOTOS!

All the pics from this past weekend can be viewed on my flickr through the link below. They start around page 6. I will post some here later when I have time with details from the build, but you can go ahead and check them out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/scroggins5000/sets/72157606346430260/?page=6

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #192 on:** April 20, 2012, 04:08:11 PM »

Ran into a couple of problems with the rear sets...

1) I completely forgot about how the rear master mounts to the big aluminum brackets that the old pegs were on (idiot!), so now it has no place to go. I can't weld something to the frame because it is already powder coated. It would need to bolt on somehow.

2) On the other side of the bike, the shift linkage sticks out at too much of an angle and the shift lever hits the linkage which stops it from changing gears.

I see a couple of options.

1) Use spacers to change the angle of the shift lever, so that it won't catch. Then on the other side fab a bracket (that will also act as a spacer to make the rear sets stick out evenly) for the rear master that bolts in the same place as the rear sets. Then use longer bolts to bolt everything up.

2) Sell these rearsets and buy the ones made for the F model, and go back to using the stock aluminum brackets. (I hate those brackets...)

3) Have someone make custom rearsets for me.

For now I think I will buy another stock swing arm bolt and go back to stock brackets and pegs until I get it sorted out. Anyone have any good ideas?

UPHOTO · « **Reply #193 on:** April 20, 2012, 05:46:08 PM »

Quote from: scroggins5000 on May 25, 2011, 08:19:26 AM

I have had lots of questions on where I got my gauges. Provided links below.

Got the speedo here:
http://www.debrix.com/60mm-4-LED-Black-Face-Speedometer-1973-1994-Harley-p/39-0578-vt.htm

Tach here:
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm

Dime City has them too but for cheaper!

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-parts-mini-chrome-black-face-led-speedo-speedometer-15-0032b.html

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #194 on:** April 20, 2012, 06:48:27 PM »

Good to know. Thanks for sharing. Anyone have comments on the rear sets situation?

Emokid · « **Reply #195 on:** April 21, 2012, 08:02:32 AM »

Just a thought , i dont know if it will work on your bike , but it did on mine , i switched the right and left rearset so the linkage comes underneat ( you also have to make the brake and gear levers point down ) that way everything cleared

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #196 on:** April 28, 2012, 08:53:25 PM »

Went to pick up the bike and store it at my parents house for a few months until I move this summer. We got it fired up for the first time today, before loading it up on the trailer. Sounds freaking awesome.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MeVEWZ9YNY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

tweakin · « **Reply #197 on:** April 29, 2012, 04:30:50 AM »

Congrats scroggins! Sounds good.

KB02 · « **Reply #198 on:** April 29, 2012, 05:42:39 AM »

That does sound good.

Is there an exhaust leak up front? Looked a little smoke heavy at the front off the engine. Or was that just oil and paint cooking off?

scroggins5000 · « **Reply #199 on:** April 29, 2012, 07:57:58 AM »

Yeah, it's just the paint on the exhaust wrap smoking off.

News:

Author Topic: 1978 CB750F - Metric Mayhem" (Read 62646 times)