Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Seems bad :( (Read 259874 times)

SKTP · « **Reply #200 on:** June 02, 2012, 08:52:06 PM »

Still researching if high end carbon mountain bike bars are a terrible idea or not...

Also wondering where a good source for high quality push-pull cables and brake cables...maybe anodized or stainless hardware? Mine look like this after only a couple years...

SKTP · « **Reply #201 on:** June 03, 2012, 12:21:25 PM »

They look real prurty....

brandEn · « **Reply #202 on:** June 03, 2012, 12:53:49 PM »

Seems to me Mountain Bike Handlebars see WAY more stress than motorbike bars. Those do look cool.

RAFster122s · « **Reply #203 on:** June 03, 2012, 01:29:35 PM »

You will have to machine your triple trees to mount them since they are a larger diamater than stock bars 7/8"
i presume you can fit a throttle tube on them. How do you deal with the clamping forces on the bar ends? Wil they compromise the bar?
I would definitely want to inspect them closely every month as routine maintenance...were it my experiment.
Cool idea for a different look!

SKTP · « **Reply #204 on:** June 18, 2012, 07:40:09 AM »

A little weekend progress

Black bomber headlight speedo/tach unit rebuilt and mostly reassembled. Need the tach needle soldiered back on and a new bezel designed and machiened. The existing one is cracked and dented. Also, I'd like it to be easily removable...open to any ideas

Also installed an AllBalls kit....it was pretty straight forward thanks to this forum

Tiny gap on the bottom race....but it's even and I could not make it move any more.

First test fitting of the older style trees on my 78K might have to find a rubber o-ring or something to fill in that top gap

MCRider · « **Reply #205 on:** June 18, 2012, 07:52:29 AM »

Quote from: brandEn on June 03, 2012, 12:53:49 PM

Seems to me Mountain Bike Handlebars see WAY more stress than motorbike bars. Those do look cool.

As purely a WAG, i don't think you can say that as the motorcycle is 500lbs and is exerting a lot of the force involved. Then on the other hand the MC has 4 inches of fork travel...

Would be interesting as to an educated opinion. Not saying yours isn't, just that i don't know if it is.

Dyrden · « **Reply #206 on:** June 18, 2012, 08:56:22 AM »

Be careful with the MTB bar. They are typically clamped(and engineered) for the load at the center of the bar. You may find the wall thickness goes way down outside that clamping zone. Some downhill specific bars will have increased wall thickness and some are designed to mount directly to the upper crown(triple tree) instead of the typical stem. Forks like the Fox 40 and Boxxer have direct mounts to their triple trees.

SKTP · « **Reply #207 on:** June 18, 2012, 12:06:35 PM »

Yep, not going with the Mountain Bike bar....

most likely go this route now

http://www.renthal.com/File/product1b.asp?productid=0&tabtype=3&zone=&biketype=&manufacturer=&model=&bikedate=

also:

NOS Headlight RIM aquired from http://www.cmsnl.com/

Syscrush · « **Reply #208 on:** June 19, 2012, 04:42:40 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on June 18, 2012, 12:06:35 PM

Yep, not going with the Mountain Bike bar....

I think that's a wise choice. The loads are just so different, and there's so much at stake.

BUT Driven makes an aluminum bar wrapped in carbon, available in a few different MX bends. Check it out:

tweakin · « **Reply #209 on:** June 19, 2012, 07:17:05 PM »

Nice choice of bars, I just ordered a set Sunday for my 78. Easton makes some burly bars, (used to race DH and they were one of my sponsors) but I think you are better off with the Renthals.

Quote from: SKTP on June 18, 2012, 12:06:35 PM

Yep, not going with the Mountain Bike bar....

most likely go this route now

SKTP · « **Reply #210 on:** June 25, 2012, 04:10:18 PM »

Painting begins!

Getting the swingarm, fork-ears and headlight bucket done professionally...spraying all the rest of the pieces myself

(frame has already been powder coated)

Still debating paint or powder on the swingarm....

mrrch · « **Reply #211 on:** July 04, 2012, 09:56:07 AM »

Did you use brake caliper specific paint?

xnoahx · « **Reply #212 on:** July 06, 2012, 01:43:45 PM »

Keep it coming

SKTP · « **Reply #213 on:** July 11, 2012, 09:30:32 AM »

Swing arm, sandblasted and painted and in place. Collar/bolt and rebuild by Hondaman!

Question: should this grease gun work on the zerk? Or is this the wrong tip?

MCRider · « **Reply #214 on:** July 11, 2012, 09:51:29 AM »

Having just greased my HondaMan unit, with what appears to be the same gun, I'd say you're fine.

I prefer to grease mine with the nut a little loose, to assure grease gets everywhere. Then tighten it up.

SKTP · « **Reply #215 on:** July 11, 2012, 09:58:55 AM »

Do you mean the zerk (elbow grease fitting) or the pivot bolt? I was guessing you pump it into the zerk? So far it sort of just shoots out around it?

MCRider · « **Reply #216 on:** July 11, 2012, 10:08:42 AM »

Quote from: SKTP on July 11, 2012, 09:58:55 AM

Do you mean the zerk (elbow grease fitting) or the pivot bolt? I was guessing you pump it into the zerk? So far it sort of just shoots out around it?

If its a HM bolt, there should be a zerk at each end. The grease should not come out where you can see it. You need to push hard on the gun to engage the gun with the zerk. Then its a mother F--r to pull off. But that's the way of grease guns.

That's partly why I say loosen the pivot bolt nut (not the zerk) so there is less resistance to the grease coming in. But my guess is you haven't engaged the gun onto the zerk. Takes quite a bit of force, then it "pops" on.

Having just done mine the difficulty is fresh. A virgin zerk puts up some resistance to popping the gun on.

SKTP · « **Reply #217 on:** July 11, 2012, 10:55:19 AM »

Thank you very much MCRider...I was not pushing the gun on at all from the sounds of it...

mrrch- Yes I used Caliper paint...I'll have to double check the brand

Just dropped off my fork-ears to the pro-painter...those need to be glossy and perfect

Hope to have it on wheels over the weekend...next I just have to put the engine together...how hard can that be?

lucky · « **Reply #218 on:** July 11, 2012, 11:29:24 PM »

Quote from: SKTP on April 08, 2010, 01:57:09 PM

Thanks for the replies so far....here's a shot I took of the bike right before the tranny started slipping...I have to get rid of that rear fender and taillight. Why did they design them so HUGE?

They made the fenders to keep the rain and mud off of your back.

SKTP · « **Reply #219 on:** July 14, 2012, 08:46:22 PM »

It is on!!!! Super hyped

SKTP · « **Reply #220 on:** July 15, 2012, 06:40:27 PM »

85% of garage cleaned and sorted....I guess putting the engine together is next along with finishing the double disk conversion

Dyrden · « **Reply #221 on:** July 15, 2012, 09:32:41 PM »

Nice. I made a lot of progress today too. I was able to use the side stand for the first time in 2 years. Im working on the harness tonight.

SKTP · « **Reply #222 on:** July 16, 2012, 09:42:42 AM »

Dyrden, your build is insane!

SKTP · « **Reply #223 on:** July 29, 2012, 05:07:00 PM »

I think I'll run the key on the right side....anybody have any tips for changing out a pre-77 ignition (round plug) to fit a post-77 (rectangle)...I guess they can't be too different....hello wiring diagrams

CB_Jeff · « **Reply #224 on:** July 30, 2012, 08:37:52 AM »

Maybe I missed it, but what did that headlight /gauge gauge housing come off?

News:

Author Topic: 1978 CB750K — Post 836 OIL PRESSURE - Seems bad :( (Read 259874 times)