Topic: Toustic's CB550F - A Swiss' first build

[seanbarney41]

I got a new battery, all the juice it needs but I'm not getting a spark. I have unscrewed the spark plug, shoved it in the cap, and held the thread against my cylinder head.. I'm not seeing it. I'm assuming that I should see a spark, regardless of timing, and regardless of my points correct?

Since I'm not getting a spark, I'm just wondering where the F*%& I went wrong. I genuinely though I had done it all right.

is your cylinder head covered with a luscious coat of beautiful paint?  find anything that is bare metal and grounded, within reach of your spark plug wire to test for spark

[Stev-o]

 I'm assuming that I should see a spark, regardless of timing, and regardless of my points correct?

Regardless of points?  No.  If your points are bad or not properly gapped, no spark is possible. 

[Tews19]

Plus 1 ^^^^

[Toustic]

 I'm assuming that I should see a spark, regardless of timing, and regardless of my points correct?

Regardless of points?  No.  If your points are bad or not properly gapped, no spark is possible.

Well... That's how you learn 

I didn't check my points... doing that tomorrow. I feel dumb indeed

[Toustic]

Gapped my points at 0.3mm:
http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/Toustic/media/20140622_195335_001_zps0b68fb65.mp4.html

Needed a test light so I got one at my lunch break today (it vaguely resembles this: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/kennyz1963/2011-03-11_030209_testlight4.jpg)
Also got a multimeter so that I have the bare minimum tools to handle electrical matters.

I have set my coils on 1-4, and 2-3 as they should be (they weren't before  ), wiring looks to be healthy overall. If I'm still not getting a spark tonight, I will do a continuity test to see if there is any bridge in my power supply to the points.

Just to clarify. When I do the test-light test, I should put the clamp on the case, and aim the tip of the tester at the blue or green cable?
I've seen contradicting info, as people seem to question the information from the HAYNES manual. Am I supposed to take either cable off for testing?

In anticipation, I have found instructions from to fellow member TwoTired (big up for your patience my friend), and I will be going through the following steps in order to give you guys legitimate feedback on my power readings.
For those interested in that thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=107498.0

___________________________________________

Insert slim paper/cardboard between both point contacts.

Turn the lights off at the bars.

Stop RUN Stop switch set to RUN.

Key switch on.

A) - One probe on battery NEG terminal.  The other probe on the yellow and blue (in turn) connection to the points.  Note readings and report.

Remove paper and carb board.

Rotate the engine crankshaft so that one set of points is closed.
B) - Measure ether yellow or blue connection of the selected points set that is closed.  Note reading and report.
Rotate crankshaft so that the other opposite point set is closed.
C) - Measure ether yellow or blue connection of the selected points set that is closed.  Note reading and report.

D) - Measure the voltage at the battery posts.  Note reading and report.
__________________________________________

I know I'm out of my depth here, but forcing myself to learn this is cause I hate being the guy who says he doesn't know and leave it at that.

Really trying to have it start by doing the tweaking myself... Even if it means forcing you guys to lead the blind.

I appreciate your patience oh so very genuinely.

Best,
S

[Toustic]

Here is my Battery reading. Literally brand new.
Charged it before installing too



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[strynboen]

looks a bit low...try to take the one battery vire off. and test one more.think the bike eats some power.??...is the bike, power off vhen you test

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Here is my Battery reading. Literally brand new.
Charged it before installing too



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Definitely on the low side for a brand new battery, charged up. 

[Maurice]

Not looking good. But FWIW it will kick-start to life with way lower than that. Don't ask me how I know

[vfourfreak]

I was going to suggest someting similar. Leave your battery Negative terminal connected. Disconnect the Red lead from it's (positive) terminal. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. Set your multimeter to amps and put it in series between the Positive terminal of the battery and the red lead and see if any current is flowing.

best to eliminate any possibility of a short.

Kev

[Maurice]

With a short of any kind he would be seeing the voltage go down and down... Hopefully that is not the case, I'll take a bad battery any day over tracking a short circuit.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Definitely check for a short, but I would also take the battery back for an exchange.

[Toustic]

So... I pulled the battery for a charge. Left it for a while while taking care of other things. Got up to:


I plugged the battery to see if I could get some reading on my points. As I'm trying to take them for a little bit without much success, I check the battery again based on your suggestions and that's what I got


Headlight not connected, and all lights off aside of that. I didn't even try to start it while taking the readings.
Just ignition switch on.

I think the bike is eating power. Because I have charged the battery twice up to 12.6 and without even trying to crank the engine, just by installing the battery in and switching the ignition on it drained down to 11.9 and below.



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[Maurice]

Battery may be weak, but it is somewhat normal for voltage to go lower when ignition is on, since coils (likely) get charged and the field coil (part of alternator) is powered. Make sure your grounds from regulator and rectifier to frame/battery are good.

[Toustic]

But even if all I did was turn the ignition on a couple of minutes before turning the ignition off and getting this last number (11.92)

Your 2nd suggestion: Not sure what to look for when you say "make sure" .. rookie here

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[Maurice]

Leaving the ignition on for a couple minutes will surely use some battery, depending when you measured could be normal. Shouldn't prevent you from troubleshooting other things IMO.

To ensure grounds are ok, well, just make sure all connections are done and good. Is it stock wiring? Follow wires and measure continuity on green regulator/rectifier to frame, connectors are clean etc. Can't learn everything in one day, but it's always good to keep learning.

[calj737]

Charge the battery fully to 13.1v. Let rest for 2 hours. Test while disconnected from bike. Note voltage. Then connect to bike and compare resting voltage after 15 and 30 minutes. 12.6v is not fully charged.

[Toustic]

Thank you for the tips.

I'm gonna try and be patient about the troubleshooting. Just trying to read a lot about it.

Sorry guys. I'm tripping on such basic  stuff it feels.

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[Bankerdanny]

Like you said before, that's how you learn.

[Toustic]

Also wanted to ask if you guys had a suggestion regarding the fact that my kickstart only turns the engine over when the cover is off.

I've tried re-bolting down the the clutch spring plate a couple of times to see if it would make a difference. It does when the cover is off, but as soon as I bolt it down to the crankcase and try to kick the engine over, it just spins freely and doesn't engage the primary drive.

I haven't been replaced the clutch plates, nor the springs (in case this is useful info). I just followed the manual's protocol, as well as those:

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS97OkyZEN
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5eMsyqcKCw

Thank you for dealing with this, I feel bad shoving my despair in your faces so blatantly

[Maurice]

You probably have the clutch adjustment pushing the rod too far in. Try to remove the clutch cable and/or back out the the set-screw at the bottom of the cover.

[Toustic]

You probably have the clutch adjustment pushing the rod too far in. Try to remove the clutch cable and/or back out the the set-screw at the bottom of the cover.

Thank you, will try.
The clutch adjustment is at the highest it can be on the thread. However, I haven't bolted the clutchplate very far down. just enough so that I had to use a wrench to get it tighter. Maybe a got a bit shy on that part.

[Maurice]

What do you mean 'highest'? As in, 'cable as tight as a piano string'? If so back it out give it some slack. For the kickstarter to work the clutch must be engaged (i.e: hands off the lever).

What clutchplate are you referring to? In my mind the only clutch plates are the friction and pressure (metal) ones and they aren't bolted.

What did you have to use a wrench on?

[Toustic]

Clutch spring plate and the 4 bolts I'm talking about:


Before, the plate was not bolted down enough and would actually stick out in comparison to the clutch basket, now I have bolted it dowm a bit further, and it looks like this:


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[vfourfreak]

Are there two steel plates together in the middle of the stack (look at the gap between the fibre plates) ? Or are the plates sticking and not sliding close together ?

Kev