Topic: K3 Project has now started.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Mele Kalikimaka to you too.

In about 11 months.

[MauiK3]

So I'm going about this sort of  backward, depending on how you look at it. I now have my very own copy of Mark Paris's book and I'm reading it, what a great "bible" to work from. As I read, I am planning the big job of engine/frame work while I do things around the edges. I tested my plug wire ends....toast, no wonder it's rich and extra cold blooded, probably is jetted wrong too. The stock exhaust came in and are installed, what a difference! After I get ignition parts I will install them and check the carb synchronization. Then maybe ride a bit around the island while I continue the "to do" list. I know the head bearings need work, might do that next, as well as repair the steering stops, which are worn and get very close to damaging the tank.
True confession: I bought a tank, side cover and headlight, fork ears set in candy blue green from Yamiya. They came in and really look great, I won't install them until the frame/engine is done. Yamiya seems to be very good at what they do, so is David Silver.
I also plan on a wiring harness.
As for the engine, I know I'll get the cylinders and head done, may go farther depending on budget. The carbs need work too.
Like all such projects, the more you look the bigger it gets.
I'll get some photos up soon.
Steve

[budman]

Sounds like a solid plan.  I bought a Yamiya exhaust for my build and I'm very pleased with the quality.

[MauiK3]

Aloha all
As I plan my work on my K3 I think one of the things I want to do is drill the rotor(s).
My drill press is a bit light and I'm familiar enough with stainless to want it done at a machine shop with a dividing head. Does anyone know of such a service? Or perhaps an exchange service?
My reasons for drilling are: wet performance, unsprung weight, and cool factor, I will leave the order up to the reader :-))
Thank you
Steve

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Aloha all
As I plan my work on my K3 I think one of the things I want to do is drill the rotor(s).
My drill press is a bit light and I'm familiar enough with stainless to want it done at a machine shop with a dividing head. Does anyone know of such a service? Or perhaps an exchange service?
My reasons for drilling are: wet performance, unsprung weight, and cool factor, I will leave the order up to the reader :-))
Thank you
Steve

You could take it to a machine shop, but it might cost you more than going with some of the vendors on the forum that regularly do the same service. 

Check
(1) El Cheapo -- I think he is the lowest priced
(2) Godffery -- who does an amazing job not just drilling the rotor but thinning it to save more weight
(3) Truedisc -- not on the forum but does a similar service to Godffery

[MauiK3]

I suppose this has been asked many times before but I have not caught the answer. If one has a good working master cylinder and wants to restore the black color, is there a paint that works?
Sorry if this is too much of an "AGAIN?" question.
Steve

[Stev-o]

I suppose this has been asked many times before but I have not caught the answer. If one has a good working master cylinder and wants to restore the black color, is there a paint that works?
Sorry if this is too much of an "AGAIN?" question.
Steve

Good question.  If I am not mistaken, the MC is anodized, brake fluid hates paint!
You could try caliper paint and be real careful when opening....

[MauiK3]

Aloha all
As I move through my assessments I have discovered a strange problem. The 5 screws that hold down the points seem to be made of unobtanium. I measure them as 4mm, 0.75 thread x 7 mm long screws. Mine have somewhat cammed  out JIS slots. I am looking for some. I've checked Fastenal, the usual big boxes, ACE hardware, etc. no one has 0.75 thread.
Do I have this wrong, has anyone found these or do I buy a whole points assembly? What I'd like is to have some spares.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Steve

[budman]

Try belmetric.com.  If they don't have it they may be able to get it.

[calj737]

https://hvccycle.net/metric-japanese-industrial-standard-jis-pan-head-phillips-machine-screws/

[timbo750]

M4 0.75 should course or standard thread and 0.5 in fine thread

Edit:
There are some listings though for 0.7 pitch?

[MauiK3]

Here is what I have found in my search for the 4mm x 0.75 ignition screws.
Bell Metric has checked with their European suppliers and no one seems to know about this size/thread combination. Someone is making them but I can't find any. What I was going to do is try to buy a bunch if I had to and offer up spares for postage and a little return to cover it. No luck so far. This is weird, Honda has used thousands of these.
There is a secret factory inside a mountain somewhere with a crew making these and no one knows about it except the after market guys making ignition assemblies.
Steve

[budman]

What's strange is you can buy M4 x .75 taps and dies all day long.

Found some references to this thread pitch being an old German spec.

[budman]

I found these.  Title says 5mm but the description says 4mm.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/381595214633

https://www.siriusconinc.com/mobile/products-detail.php?product_id=2666

Part no:  93892-04008-00

[MauiK3]

In my seemingly endless planning I am wondering if anyone knows if someone is making the brake hose that goes on the caliper for the right side in the dual disc conversion. I may try to bend one myself but a pre made one might be nicer. I saw some photos of some that are braided all the way down as well but I wonder about durability with the front part exposed in front of the fork. I have decided against turning the forks around, I think the trade off is not worthwhile.
Steve

[MauiK3]

Timing lights, arghh
I bought an Innova 5568, it doesn't seem to like our ignition systems, it seemed to work for a bit but then it either didn't flash or flashed all over the place, way out of synch with the timing marks.
Bike runs fine, I wanted to check the advancer.
1973 K3 with new stock coils, points, plugs, condensers.

Any suggestions for a light that works?
Thank you
Steve

[budman]

Did you find a timing light?  Mine's a piece of junk.

[MauiK3]

No, I guess I need to look for an old school light with no modern features. I sold one years ago, thought I'd never need it again. And then this K3 drops into my life for me to care and feed.

[MauiK3]

As I get closer to taking my K3 apart for the overhauls and painting I am doing a lot of reading. I just ran across a passage that said soaking carbs in Simple Green darkens them. I plan on getting an ultrasonic tank to clean the carbs. Has anyone run into this darkening thing? If so, what alternative cleaners are there to clean the carbs inside and out in an ultrasonic cleaner?
Thank you
steve

[MauiK3]

Before I tear it down I wanted to check the wheel track. Using some string and weights I attempted to measure it. I could find little to no offset  or deviation in wheel track which is good but I read (Hondaman) that many have the front hub laced up with an offset toward the disc. I wonder if my crude setup was not good enough to catch it. Maybe two long metal straight edges?
I'll be going back with new rims and stainless spokes but I thought I'd do the check anyway just for good background information and to see if there were any other issues.
Also checked oil pressure with a new engine mounted gauge. 60 to 70 psi most of the time. Good.

[MauiK3]

A few more photos

[MauiK3]

Today, at last, after requested wood projects (bunk bed for grandson, etc.) and other intervening things, I finally started the teardown so I can get the head and cylinders to Hondaman, gauges to CB750 Faces, and generally get the effects of 43 years mostly reversed. I have a lot, though not all, of the parts I need already. And away I go on this little project to make it look more or less new. Today I discovered some previous owner wiring issues, good thing I'm going to replace the harness. I also was surprised to notice the swing arm is not too loose, I'm still putting in bronze bearings. The steering head bearings are shot. I'm really looking forward to a clean, freshly painted frame and other black do dads.
Here it goes.

[MauiK3]

I tried this once already and for some reason it didn't post.
I'm ready to start the engine and begin the general restoration.
I laid the frame on its side and lifted the frame off, pretty easy.

[budman]

You're tidier than I am.  I see new fork tubes in your future.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

I see WD40 in your future , too, or just stepped up oxidation vigilance given your location.