Well, I finally broke the case apart. Gears, bearings and journals look great.
The stator is now out. The stator rotor was a bear to pull. I should have done that before the case was split to get better leverage, but with the right puller and impact wrench it broke free. The stator looks a little scorched in one part so I am looking for someone to re-wrap.
By far the most difficult and frustrating parts of the teardown thus far were the oil filter center bolt and the case studs. With some heat and a slightly smaller socket (11 mm) forced onto to oil filter bolt head after getting it red hot, I let it cool and then used a freon blast to ice it down to try to break the corrosion bond. That worked! I ordered a replacement with a larger head bolt.
For the studs, I used a tried and true method - but it takes days of patience. They were very badly rusted and seized - I was worried about breaking them off. I almost had to give up. But after 5 days of soaking the exposed tops of the threads with PB Blaster, on the 5th day I torqued on new 8mm double nuts on the top threads and carefully heated the area of the case surrounding the embedded threads. I then protected the case area I had heated and used more freon to put a shiver down the vein of the stud from the double nuts down. With a large vice grip close to the base, a closed-end wrench on the double nut, and with both feet against the case, I tugged as hard as I could, trying to budge the seized stud only a little bit at a time and appling more PB down the threads. Luckily, I got them all out without breaking any. A couple almost sheared off, but stopped in time and applying more heat - then ice. I think by contracting the stud with freon while heating up the aluminum really helps to break the rust/corrosion bond. I squirted a stream of PB Blaster in the case stud holes and flushed out more rust than I thought I would see. Next time, silver non-seize paste for sure. I don't want the next guy (if there is one) to have to deal with that.
The stator cover had some deep gouges which I sanded completed out. I sanded with 120 grit. Those last couple of scratches came out nicely and now the cover is being sanded down to 1200 grit and then it will be polished up.
The good news is that my new 592 10.5 compression ratio pistons, APE studs, Black Diamond +1 intake and exhaust valves, valve springs and titanium retainers are on their way already from Dynoman. Thanks, Buzz. I initially wanted the Carrill H-beam rods, but they were almost $1200 for a set. Ouch! I still may go for the Carrillos once I get over the sticker shock. Those Carrillos are great rods in any application.
