You don't need expensive and technically challenging CNC machines to make impressive custom one-off parts! Let me show you how to do it with simple shop tools.
I've received several "how-to" inquiries regarding some of the aluminum parts that I've fabricated for the Interceptor over the years that I thought I'd share my process with the collective.
Legal: The procedures depicted here are for reference purposes only. The author does not recommend the use of these methods and can not be held responcible for the health and safety of those that do. Always operate tools in accordance with the manufactures recommendations and safety guides. Always wear approved safety googles, ear protection and gloves.
Having recently purchased a Cone Engineering megaphone for the bike and I needed to fab up a muffler support hanger, so I thought this would be a good how to project.
First step is to figure out what you are trying to make, the materials (thickness & size), and a design concept before you start cutting hard materials.
Most of my design work is done with heavy gauge cardboard but in this example, I'm using 1/4" plastic. Soft materials like cardboard, plastic or wood are great cause they're easy to cut, shape and draw on.
If you toast a couple of designs along the way it isn't a big loss either.
As a matter of fact, it's so versatile I sometimes make a few variations in the design phase and select my favorite before the hard work begins.
Once you've nailed the design, it's time to replicate it in the final (1/4" aluminum plate) material. The best way to mark your design details on aluminum is with layout fluid and a scribe. Layout fluid is the fast drying (blue) ink that I've brushed on my aluminum plate.
The next step is to confirm (once more) the fittment of your design before you start cutting. Adjust your template if required.
Start your fabrication with the hard mounts. These are the points that locate your part on the bike and need to be exact. In this example, I need to locate and drill the two mounting holes that align with the braze-on frame mounts.
Once my fixed mount points have been drilled I can overlay the template and scribe an outline.
Now the fun begins. Aluminum is a (relatively) soft metal to work with which makes it ideal for home fabricators.
There are several ways to cut aluminum. I often prefer a tablesaw for speed and straight line accuracy, but for this project I'm using a standard bandsaw fitted with a course wood blade.
You don't want fine tooth blades for cutting aluminum. They will plug up and become useless. Course (6 teeth/inch) are perfect.
Relax and cut as close to the scribe lines as possible. This will save some time later.
Rough cut and ready for final shaping.
This simple belt sander is perfect for shaping aluminum parts but it's a high friction method of shaping so remember to wear heavy leather gloves as aluminum gets really hot when shaped on a sander. The large flat belt table is great for straightening bandsaw cuts too.
It doesn't take long to get the final shape where you want it with the belt sander.
