Author Topic: K2/K5 Drag project (Read 103332 times)

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #50 on:** May 15, 2014, 10:59:57 pm »

That excerpt you posted is Gold. What a great read..

I would love to try anything more narrow and larger spokes are a necessity..

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #51 on:** May 16, 2014, 12:40:03 am »

Don't ask me how I forgot I actually have a 18" front wheel

Definitely unique as well

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #52 on:** May 16, 2014, 04:49:56 am »

Trey, I'll call you later today, been busy.! Stock rear is 2.15x18, so the 2.50 can be used or sold.
3.50 x18 might be too wide,Bill

754 · « **Reply #53 on:** May 16, 2014, 07:41:01 am »

That is Harley Xl or Fx wheel from 73ish to 76 or 77.
If you want narrow rear and disc brake run a Morris 18 for CB750 750
The Shelby Dowd rear mag is also skinny, may have one to sell, but shipping is high.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #54 on:** May 16, 2014, 08:22:08 am »

I already have so much modifying to come up with, I'd like to use wheels that have a rear drum and are around or under 2".

I could just use the stock wheels front and back.. They seem to be around or under 2.5"

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #55 on:** May 16, 2014, 09:46:16 am »

No, they are 1.85x19 F, 2.15x18 R.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #56 on:** May 16, 2014, 10:02:49 am »

Yeah I have a 1.85x19 front wheel and a 2.15 rear..

Thanks Bill

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #57 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:07:29 am »

Not sure if this is applicable.. But I have a very narrow drum brake 18" wheel as well..

Needs a bit of cleaning up.. Had a hand made aluminum spoke cover on it too..

Cougars750F0 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:17:24 am »

Looks like my late 68 CB450 European model it's a factory 18"

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #59 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:42:16 am »

See if it with brakes is lighter than 19". 18/18 preferred, It's enough brake for the Salts. Dual leading drum better braking with just a tiny bit more weight. Bill

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #60 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:48:21 am »

I would love to be able to find a 18 dual shoe front.. But this single is in decent shape and is super light weight.. Will probably be easier locating a tire for it as well. Just going to have to make up some spacers to fit the 750 fork legs.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #61 on:** May 16, 2014, 12:02:55 pm »

Trey......Re: Wheels.............Wire-spoked rims are difficult to run without an innertube. The alloy cover is only allowed in the partial streamlined classes. I agree with your preference for a rear drum brake.

Assuming your motor cases are from a K-model, you may have to align (shim-plate) a rear wheel from any other model. First determine if you have the correct selection of an extended swing-arm. I have selected a set of Yamaha Secca 550 mags for their light-weight and very good balance.........19 x 1.85 front & 18 x 2.15 rear. They are newer (mid-'80s) and have the extra little bead-retainer on the inner-part of the rim-face for added safety.

The reference to 'chunking' is very real..........with a somewhat easy (expensive) solution of shaving the tire tread to remove tread and weight. BTW....don't use your neighbor's kitchen knife............although Burt Munrow actually did!

Rate your potential speed and build accordingly...........Remember, you will be holding the throttle WFO for about 1.5 miles in top gear. Don't build a grenade!

Cougars750F0 · « **Reply #62 on:** May 16, 2014, 12:08:22 pm »

My hub is a leading front shoe or are you talking about two shoes in front and back?

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #63 on:** May 16, 2014, 12:55:22 pm »

Thanks Dennis! Great words of wisdom as always. I know the concern of running Tubes in modern tubeless tires.. I would love to be able to sell some stuff and find that perfect set of mags..

and cougars I was referring to a dual shoe front hub. Dual drum brakes(front and rear) are perfect for this build

Cougars750F0 · « **Reply #64 on:** May 16, 2014, 01:10:17 pm »

Is this what you're talking about? not mine but the same.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #65 on:** May 16, 2014, 01:40:47 pm »

A dual leading would have another hub of drum brakes on the opposing side..

Cougars750F0 · « **Reply #66 on:** May 16, 2014, 01:53:02 pm »

ahh yes! another dumb question showing my limited knowledge on the subject.

I thought that was the case. I embarrass myself a lot but learn new things while I'm at it! Thanks for the tip.

Tintop · « **Reply #67 on:** May 16, 2014, 02:17:56 pm »

The kind of front drum brake your looking for was used on the GT750 (early 70's). There around but not cheap as the vintage road racers like them as an upgrade for the CB 350 / 450.

Bodi · « **Reply #68 on:** May 16, 2014, 08:51:58 pm »

The picture shows a 2LS double leading shoe brake, fairly common in the 60s on "larger" Japanese bikes (the Honda CB72/77 twins have them). The 4LS system has a hub with a drum and brake plate on each side (with separate cables): very rare on street bikes but used on a lot of factory race bikes pre-disk (the Honda RC174 has a 4LS up front). You can find used GT750 ones at a decent price if you look around, or get some really nice new ones if you have a lot of spare cash.
2LS brakes are tough enough to adjust properly, for 4LS it's a nightmare. Basically only used now in period racing, in classes where disc brakes are not allowed. Or for looks - a 4LS drum brake does look pretty cool. TLS brakes give almost double the forward braking power of a 1LS design. 4LS doesn't improve that a lot from 2LS but resists overheating better. 2LS/4LS brakes don't work worth sh1t in reverse... not an issue on a bike. I have seen a custom "cafe racer" with a 2LS rear brake mounted backwards on the front wheel so that it's feeble going forward: maybe that guy had to stop on hills a lot and didn't want to ever roll back.

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #69 on:** May 16, 2014, 11:19:35 pm »

Dry run to see how it all fits and what I'm still missing..

saltcitycafe · « **Reply #70 on:** May 17, 2014, 06:38:12 am »

Making my toes tingle...I can't wait to see this on the salt. Oh and if I visit in the pits and happen to start licking that motor...its best to just let me finish lol

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #71 on:** May 17, 2014, 08:35:17 am »

Haha that's okay Saltcitycafe!! Its understandable!

Just make sure it's cooled off first

johno · « **Reply #72 on:** May 17, 2014, 03:54:14 pm »

Hi Trey,
your going well so far ! I am sure you are discovering it takes time to tune into a new motorsport scene, no matter what, it just takes time, My laptop is nearly worn out from researching, ultimately this forum was the main supply of info for me, reckon it took me a whole winter with a few good ports and brandy on the way to soak up all the old threads.

I would be offering more advice Trey but as of now all my theories are unproven

not that I have any new theories they are all ex forum I reckon.

Just for a laugh though mate lets talk money, from my limited experience I reckon by the time you are sitting on the bike waiting for the first rookie run in that time from today you will shell out $10 grand...........all up costs parts, entry fees, travel accommo.
Keep a rough tab on it Trey and see how close I get, I will remind you after you run this year or the next to see how close I got.

My parts budget was pretty close but I found in the last 4 weeks before the meet I just had to throw money at everything to get there, then the motor #$%*e itself unfortunately however Trey I must say it was the most fun and action I have had since I was a young bloke and cant wait to spend some more

johno

NalleyRacing · « **Reply #73 on:** May 17, 2014, 06:34:21 pm »

Its funny you should say that bud, I was just asking myself this morning where I want to be at on this..

johno · « **Reply #74 on:** May 17, 2014, 07:39:25 pm »

Doctor D gave me the best advice, dont worry about the budget it will only stress you , just the time.

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Author Topic: K2/K5 Drag project (Read 103332 times)