Topic: CB750 K6 - Step Step 12 - Now into some tweaking to get it right

[oldhatt45]

Just as an FYI, I checked with NJM and that turned out to be a No-Go.  They don't do their own MC Insurance.  THey have an affiliate that writes bikes for them and is a separate policy.  Their rate was good, about $140.00 per year, but would not or could not do an agreed upon value unless I also had a "collectors" car, then I could have done it.

Looked at GEICO, but I decided against it since I saw nothing about agreed value.

Finally went to Hagerty at the suggestion of another forum member on a thread in the general forum.
I liked what they had to say and they will do an agreed value, which was a must. 

Had to send them a couple of pictures (attached below) so I went out and put a few thing on temporarily until I can clean everything else up.  And please don't groan when you see the pictures.      And Since I had it handy, I threw the Second Ugliest seat on just as a quicky for the pictures. 

Charlie

[Stev-o]

Us, groan?! Cmon Charlie, why would we do that?!

[oldhatt45]

Hahahahaha

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

Today I didn't get to do as much as I wanted to.

Got a call from Hagerty Ins, asking a couple of questions, but nothing that would lead me to believe there was a problem.
The Service Rep (I think) was a guy and from the way he spoke, he seemed knowledgeable about bikes in general and even a bit more than I would have thought on the old "Honda 750's". 

Ended up with my policy and Insurance ID card.      Happy Dance!  So I can stop by the NJ MVC tomorrow and hopefully come out with my Registration and Plate.

Pulled off the Fairing, Tank and Second Ugliest Seat so I could finish things up.

In terms of actual progress, I finished wiring up the headlight relays per the suggested Hondaman Mod .  Hopefully get them in tomorrow. 

Then on to the final tune and check stuff.  Hopefully a ride by this weekend.

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

Well today was interesting in terms of progress.

I managed to get the 750 registered and get a Plate for her.
The NJ MVC is a royal PITA to deal with unless everything is perfectly by their book.
Ended up that they had no record of me turning in my old plate from 1991, so I ended up having to pay 3 years worth of registration fees, at $65.00 per year plus the current years registration.  And that was my absolute best option.  So with my bike finally registered I can now drive her legally.  Quite frankly, New Jersey MVC is Not one of my favorite organizations.

Oh, by the way, never ever fail to get a receipt for your plate surrender and keep it in a safety deposit box where you can get to it if you need to deal with NJ MVC.  Also, keep a copy of the cancellation letter from your insurance company as well, with the plate turn in receipt.  Otherwise you will get screwed by them. 

SO hopefully I can get everything done and get to go for a ride sometime this weekend.

Charlie

[Stev-o]

Note to self: Never go to Joysey MVC! Thx for the tip, Charlie.

[Restoration Fan]

I keep telling you that you need to move to Georgia, Charlie.  They don't require past registration worries.  Just pay your fees and everyone's happy. 

Ron

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o,

You're Welcome!

Ron,

If I could only talk the Better Half into moving South. 
Maybe someday.

Charlie

[oldhatt45]

Over the last few days, I've managed to get a few things done.

I got the Headlight relays done and installed and Tested and life is good with those.

Adjusted the Clutch and it now has the correct (according to the Manual) freeplay of about 3/4" travel of the clutch lever.

Can't find my grease gun, so I haven't done the swingarm.  I will find that darn thing if it kills me. 

Rechecked the cam chain adjustment.  OK
Rechecked the Valve tappets.  OK.

Put in the new correct AGM battery sYTX14AHL-BS (terminals on correct sides as opposed to the ySTX14AH-BS).  Battery Stuff was excellent and old one on it's way back to them.

Today I put in the new Points Plate with new Points and condenser.  The original screws for the Breaker Plate were messed up, so I used 3 5X12mm 0.8 pitch hex head bolts.  They worked out nicely.  Put some anti-seize on them jut to make sure all is OK.

Hooked up the Vacuum Gauges to the Carbs (086a's) closed the choke (all the way up), and hit the starter.  OK, it fired right up.
Idle a little high so turned the main Idle screw down a bit and gradually reduced the choke over about 30 seconds.  Idling at about 1100-1200 rpm.  Fairly steady. 

Steadied out the flutter in the vacuum gauges.  Readings were from a low of about 12" of mercury to about 17" of mercury at 1100-1200 rpm. 
Then started the fan.  Next I checked the temp of the exhaust at the first bend in the header pipes.  2 & 3 were about 150 F.  #1 was only about 120 F, #4 was about 140 F. 

Checked the timing with my Borg Warner Timing light.  1/4 was about 3-5 degrees retarded (before the "F" mark) at idle.  When I opened the throttle advance went to the Full advance mark, so ok there.  Did the same routine with 2/3 and got the same result.  Did not appear to be any flutter at all.  Also, I checked the runout on the breaker shaft and it was OK (0.000).

Went to try and adjust the air screws on each carb.  (Started at 1 full turn out.) Went as far as 2 full turns out on carb #4 and then #1 and no difference in vacuum. (Idling at 1100 - 1200 rpm)

Would think there is a problem. 

I put on Brand new Insulators (carb to head)  and tightened the heck out of the clamps.  Also put new Airbox to Carb rubber stacks on.  Both came in Honda bags and were ordered as Honda parts from a reliable parts dealer.  Stock Airbox with a K&N filter.

When I cleaned the carbs, I had done 6 to 8 cycles of (480 seconds) using heat and a 50/50 mix of Simple Green HD and water.  When done with Ultrasonic, Carbs were rinsed out with water then used the air compressor to make sure all passages were clear and dry.  Did the same with all the jets as well.  I did not touch the slide adjustment or the clips.  They still have the original factory Yellow paint on them and all parts were separated so there was no mixing up of parts from one carb to another. 

Also, when I twist the throttle Open, the engine responds with a nice smooth snap with no hesitation and returns to idle just as nicely.  With the throttle open, it seems very smooth with no popping.  Will need to recheck tomorrow.  But I still have a lumpy idle and an occasional pop at idle.  Also, after running for maybe 10 minutes, the exhaust temps (measured with my el-cheapo HF infrared heat gun) were showing about 180 on 2 & 3, 150 on #1 and about 165-170 on #4.

Wondering if its ignition related?  like wires and plug caps???  Tomorrow I plan on measuring the resistance of the plug caps.  Was looking at the fiche for new plug caps and all I see are the Noise Suppression type. 

Anyone with any ideas??

Charlie

[Stev-o]

Did you sync the carbs? You state you hooked em up and merc was 12-17 but no mention of adjustment.

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o

The only adjustment I did was to try the idle air screw adjustment.

What else is there??

I'm out of my comfort zone here so need a bit of help. 

Thanks,

Charlie

[Stev-o]

Do you have a carb sync tool? guessing no.  Its basically 4 vac guages with hoses, each one is connected to a diff carb at the same time.
The readings all need to be the same, so if your readings vary from 12-17, they need to be synced.

Here is a common sync tool...

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o

I do have a Carb Sync Tool.
It is a 35+ year old 4 gauge set with hoses and brass fittings/tubes that screw into the Vacuum hole on the downstream side of the carbs.  Also has "dampers" on each hose that reduces the flutter on the gauges.
My Gauge set looks very similar to the one in the video.  Only mine have white faces. 

I had all 4 carbs hooked up and tried to adjust the Idle Air Screw on the sides of the Carbs.

Changed the settings from 1 turn out to 2 full turns out.  No change in the amount of vacuum.

Charlie

[Stev-o]

Stev-o

I do have a Carb Sync Tool.

Ok, great.   The screw on the side is not used for sync.  Under the rubber boot on top, there are two nuts, this is where you adjust to sync.
The readings are not what you are looking at on the gauges, you just want them to read the same all the way across.
This may be unfamiliar to you but is pretty basic and kind of fun, go for it!

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o,

OK!!!!!!!  Thanks!!!!!!
Got the carbs sync'd up so they are all fluttering between 11 - 12 inches of mercury.  It actually was kind of fun. 
Finished putting some other stuff together.  And getting a few things cleaned up, like the side covers and tank.
Used some McGuires (sp) on them and it turned out fairly nice. 

Put in about 2.5 - 3 gallons of gas from the can full I bought last week.

Then after rechecking everything, I decided to take her for her first ride.  Figured I'd take her to the Post Office and send the first battery back to Battery Stuff.  Got there and much to my chagrin, PO closed.  It's apparently Columbus Day.  Ugh.  So from there I decided to go see if a buddy of mine was home.  Got there, and he wasn't there.  His wife said he was picking up their grandchildren and then taking his daughters car to the dealer for service work.  Oh Well.  Went home kind of the back way.  Got down one particular street and they were fixing some little bridge so had to take a detour.   Only about a half mile.  Ugh.  But some streets I'd never been down before.  All in all, a nice 15 mile ride.

Now the not so good news.  Forks were VERY, VERY STIFF!!!!  Going to change the 30 wt fork oil out for some lighter weight fork oil.  Probably 10 wt BelRay and see how it feels with that.

After about 5-6 miles, it was a little hard finding neutral.  Also, the Neutral light stopped working.  Ugh.

The Turn Signal buzzer has to go.  Drove me nuts.  That or I need to mute the damn thing.  LOL 

Also need to get used to shifting again.  My start up from a standstill needs a bit of work!!!!      After that, I was fairly decent and not slipping the clutch too badly.  But I suspect I may have heated it up from the initial few miles. 

It always found the gear I was shifting into.  Never any missing a gear and no popouts.  So I'm happy with that.

Also, the Front brake was squealing like a pig!!!!!!  Got to check on that as well.  I did taper the leading and trailing edges, but they are the EBC pads.  Would not mind changing them to something else though.

So that was my day today. 

Here are a few pictures when I got back.  Yes, the second ugliest seat was on her.  But it did feel pretty good.

Charlie

[Stev-o]

I'd say all in all a good day.  Looks good, well except for that seat and fairing! [you expect that from me, right?!]

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Great looking bike.

If you don't like the white fairing, you can always take it this direction  . . .

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o,

Yup!        But Thanks for the help and I appreciate the comments, all of them!!!!!!
Not sure how I feel about the seat yet, but it is a bit lower and it is a bit more comfortable than stock. 
15 miles isn't enough time to make a decision on the second ugliest seat in the world.   

CB750 Café Racer Fan,

Thanks!!!!  Purple has never been a favorite color on bikes.       
But it is interesting!!!!     
I have always figured that the white fairing is a bit more visible, but as an old friend said (before he put a fairing on his CX500 back in the day), it looks like you're riding a refrigerator.  Hahahaha

Charlie

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Ok, Charlie.  Purple Rain joke aside, that is one good looking CB750, and that Windjammer will make it an excellent touring bike.

[Stev-o]

Ok, Charlie.  Purple Rain joke aside, that is one good looking CB750, and that Windjammer will make it an excellent touring bike.

But 15 miles is hardly "touring", take it off! 

[oldhatt45]

Stev-o,

15 miles is generally just enough to get her warmed up. 
My usual rides are a minimum of 50 -60 miles.  But, after 28+ years of not riding her, 15 miles was a really good start toward getting reacquainted with the old gal! 

Racer Fan,

Yup, THANKS AGAIN, and that is my thought.  She was always very comfortable out there on the road.  So just getting reacquainted with her is a somewhat major accomplishment.     

Charlie

[HondaMan]

Sweet job, Charlie!
That white fairing really "calls" to the nice white outline on the tank, really sets it off nicely. It looks great!
Don't worry too much yet about the clutch: it takes about 100 miles before new ones smooth out very much. They have to kinda polish the cork faces against the steel plates a little bit first, then they slip easier and grip tighter.

The forks: yep, 30w is a bit stiff! I use 10w most of the time, 15w in the hottest of summer and/or longest trips (like to Texas, et al), and 5w20 for winter (although I haven't been riding much winter lately!).

[Desert-SOHC]

Looks great and yea you probably just warmed it up.

Fairings are nice for long distance and for winter riding. I may look for one for mine just for doing distance riding. Never used one till I got a Harley bagger, it was nice to not get beatup by the wind on a long ride......300+ miles.

[oldhatt45]

Mark,

Thanks!!!!!!!!  I figured the clutch would likely settle in after a bit of use. 
Probably going to go over to the local Honda place tomorrow and pick up some 10W and go home and change it.     
Didn't realize how different the new Progressive springs would be from the old S&W springs. 

So, I still have a few things to do, but I'm pleased with how it turned out so far. 

Desert-SOHC,

Thanks!!!!!!  Fairings are also nice for not getting beat up on the Highways at 60+ MPH.  Never did enjoy June bug appetizers.  LOL.     

Charlie

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Ok, Charlie.  Purple Rain joke aside, that is one good looking CB750, and that Windjammer will make it an excellent touring bike.

But 15 miles is hardly "touring", take it off!

Hahaha.  I didn't mean touring by 15 miles!    I figured that Charlie was putting the fairing on for much longer rides -- along with the saddle/case mounts (and not not the cardboard box!).