Topic: 1972 CB350 For the Daughter

[Harsh]

Stopped by a cerakote shop today.  He wants $70 to do the headers.  I think that is fair.  I was also able to look at some of his powder coat chips and I think the color I was looking at to do the frame in will work nicely.

Spent a little time this afternoon putting the lower half of the engine together.

With the guts in it.




Case halves assembled.

[RAFster122s]

I agree, $70 sounds like a good deal.  Is that inside and out? Paint came out nice. There is a chance in long range forecast for some snow here next Friday...but, that is out there a ways and subject to change.

Are you having and dry film coating work allong with hi temp coatings for piston tops/ skirts and head combustion chamber?

Granted she probably won't have the bike for 20 years but if it is a beneficial thing to do to prolong the life of the build and keep heat in check.  It reduces wear as well...
 

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

$70 is a solid deal, if it's for the outside -- and a great deal if it includes coating the inside.

[RAFster122s]

If I recall a figure I think someone had quoted a inside & outside coating job was in the $200 to 250 range .  Problem coating used pipes is cleaning them as the internals gets lots of build up over time.  It can and does pollute the cleaning solution, as a result lots of shops won't touch it.

I think Cal has a guy who does a set for him in the 200 end of the spectrum for inside and out.  Given the cost of $70 I am betting that is Cerakote on outside alone.  Or the guy is former Navy and knows Harsh is retired Navy...

David

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Still not a bad deal if only for the outside, but I think coating the inside is the most important unless the pipes are mild steel (then both).

[Harsh]

Just the outside is getting done.  They are the stock pipes.



Does anyone know if the sleeves in the third picture above of the two outer two cylinder studs are necessary/required for anything?  One of mine has gone missing.  I remember when it came off, but have no idea where I put it.  I don't want to finish assembling the engine only to have an issue later down the road.  I have read that it is just there as a damper, but haven't found anything conclusive.  The front studs do not have any oil going through them.





And I just love complete gasket/seal/o-ring kits that say every thing needed for a complete rebuild.  I decided to go through the rest of the engine and install the seals and o-rings.  I found  10 o-rings that are not in the kit.  Thankfully none of them will hold me up, but it is frustrating none-the-less.


Moving on.  Installed the valves in the head.  What a pain that always is.  My spring compressor is just ever so shy in compressing the springs enough to easily insert the keepers.  I got them in and gave them a few whacks with the rubber mallet to ensure they were fully seated.  I also checked the piston ring gaps, installed the rings, and put the pistons on the connecting rods.

[Harsh]

I received some confirmation that the missing piece on the engine stud is only there to quell some vibrations.  So I set forth last night to assemble more of the engine.  I am changing out the stock cam chain tensioner wheels for a set of picked up from a guy in Poland.  He makes a metal gear wheel to replace the stock smaller rubber wheel.  Somehow when I was futilely attempting to drive out the center rivet I managed to bugger up the whole thing.  So now I am in the hunt for a replacement.  I can still continue to assemble all the stuff that goes on the sides of the engine, but what a disappointment.

[JustDennis]

Following your build. I just got a 73 cb350 four and am interested in changes the front brake and drilling the rotor.


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[grcamna2]

I received some confirmation that the missing piece on the engine stud is only there to quell some vibrations.  So I set forth last night to assemble more of the engine.  I am changing out the stock cam chain tensioner wheels for a set of picked up from a guy in Poland.  He makes a metal gear wheel to replace the stock smaller rubber wheel.  Somehow when I was futilely attempting to drive out the center rivet I managed to bugger up the whole thing.  So now I am in the hunt for a replacement.  I can still continue to assemble all the stuff that goes on the sides of the engine, but what a disappointment.

I received your PM Harsh and went out this morning took a ride out into the country to my storage to get that one for you that you asked me for,still haven't heard from you. 

[RAFster122s]

Harsh,  I am not familiar with the 350 tensioner system.  Driving the rivet out of the old tensioner you damaged the wheel's carrier?  I am not clear where the rivetwas and am guessing it is part of a tensioner that would hold the new metal gear.

No fun.

Hope it isn't much trouble getting a replacement.

David

[Harsh]

Well I guess I threw the tensioner away that I took out of the wife's bike.  I think I have sourced one though.

Figured I would install the clutch basket, primary drive gears, and oil pump.  Well that came to a screeching halt due to the incomplete gasket kit.  It is missing the oil pump gasket.  So the engine is officially done until I get some parts in.

[Harsh]

Since I was at a stopping point I decided to do some cleaning of parts that way when I am ready for them I can just install them and go.  Well the hits keep coming.  I think I figured out why the PO could never get the bike to run.

[RAFster122s]

Better to find than go through head pounding after it is all together...

Just a bit of Murphy showing up, you can't keep him out forever.  Give him a few now so he can't strike later.

[Harsh]

Well now I am not sure mine is bad.  I was looking last night and found this NOS.  The wire not being connected looks a lot like mine.  I did some quick measurements this morning before heading to work.  A-B=.7 ohms  B-C= 1.1 ohms  A-C=1.7 ohms.

[RAFster122s]

That is a lot of variation between branches. What does the 350 shop manual say the resistance should be?  What is the sting ($) of a new stator winding?

[Harsh]

I haven't looked up what the manual says it should be yet.  If I were to get a used one probably about $50 I would guess.  The one I pictured is $220.  One from Ricks is $225.

[RAFster122s]

BTW, Ricks makes a high output single phase output kit with new regulator that provides 25% more power and they mention it will allow battery charging if the headlight is on or off and it supports a 55W headlamp.  The on or off is probably a function of the higher wattage headlamp with stock stator would not charge if headlamp were on.  But, in case it is not you should dig a bit to find out on the honda twins forum if there are issues with charging running the headlamp.  I looked on ebay and there was one for sale the seller quoted the winding readings as .8, 1.4, and 1.8   so, yours is probably good.  Any broken insulation/enamel/ or epoxy should be coated to prevent a problem from developing.
David

[Harsh]

There is a charging mod that can be done on the 350's to get it to charge when the headlight is on or off.  The manual only shows to measure two legs.  I will have to try and figure out the colors, but I think mine is good.  Yellow - Pink = 1.1 ohms  and White - Pink = .55 ohms.  The only thing I can think of is the wire comes out of the covering and connects to the stator out of view and they just leave thee excess covering there for some reason.  Probably for rubes like me to see it and think there stuff is bad.

[Harsh]

The good and the bad tonight.  Checked the stator when I got home and it is indeed good.  Well at least it ohms out good.  My local dealership had a oil pump gasket in stock.   They actually had three and the last time they sold one was 1987.  They have done their annual inventory every year since then and accounted for them.  A whopping $1.01 a piece.

Managed to get the clutch basket, oil pump, oil slinger, and stator installed (in the cover).  However, when I went to put the cap on the oil slinger I couldn't get the snap ring to seat fully.  Then I took a good look at it.  Sometimes I will never understand people.  Whoever was in the engine before decided it would be better to grind down a snap ring vice getting the correct one.  So another part I have to go get.

[RAFster122s]

Harsh,  hope the dealer isn't to far away.  Best to look ahead and see if anything else jumps out at you for potential PO "good deeds".

[Harsh]

Received my replacement cam chain tensioner wheel and was able to remove the rivet without boogering it up this time.  A co-worked made the mandrel last night for me so I can set the rivet.  Tonight I should be able to assemble the tensioner which will allow me to finish assembling the engine.  Tracking shows the snap ring is at the post office so hopefully it will arrive today.

[RAFster122s]

Nice tool your friend  and coworker has made.  You should rent that tool...

[Harsh]

If anyone wants to borrow it for the cost of shipping all they have to do is ask.

[Harsh]

All the parts I needed finally came in so I was able to finish assembling the engine today.  As expected getting the rocker boxes on gave me fits, but I managed to get them on.  It took a few tries though.  The first two times I couldn't rotate the engine through two complete revolutions.  It kept locking up for some reason.  The third time was the charm though.  To make sure I must have rotated the engine half a dozen times to make sure it wasn't a fluke.  All that is left is to set the cam chain tensioner and adjust the valves.

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Sweet!!!